A reader of last week's Dunne on Wine column, devoted to a competition that tries to come up with the best wines to accompany oysters, wrote to say that by his experience the best beverage with oysters is stout. Curious, we stopped at McCormick & Schmick's for a glass of Guinness with a couple of plates of oysters. We tried the stout first with tiny Olympias, then with meatier Jorstads, and came away unpersuaded. We found an affinity, all right, but oyster and stout each tended to stand apart from the other rather than blend into a complementary composite of sunshine and sea, which is what we found most refreshing about pairing oysters and a crisp chilled white wine. Enjoyed both the oytsters and the stout on their own, but in the future I'll continue to stick to wine with oysters.