As soon as he finishes repairing a plumbing leak this morning, Evan Williams has to start calling the 25 parties that have reservations at his restaurant tonight to tell them it won't be open.

"When it rains it pours," said Williams a short time ago. He owns the finest restaurant at South Lake Tahoe, Evan's American Gourmet Cafe, along Emerald Bay Road, just off Highway 89, which remains closed because of the large and unpredictable Angora fire.

The restaurant so far has escaped damage, though Williams has removed its more significant appointments. He's hoping winds abate, the blaze subsides and Highway 89 reopens before next week's economically crucial Fourth of July summer break. Though Evan's customarily is closed on the holiday itself, Williams also owns the nearby Cantina Bar & Grill, which stays open on the Fourth, though it now also is closed and endangered by the fire.

"We're hanging in there. We're still standing but we're not open," said Williams a short time ago from the restaurant. The fire yesterday burned to within 500 and 1,000 yards of Evan's, he estimated. "We're still concerned. Those capricious winds make for great sailing but they're not so good fire weather."