When I opened my email this morning I was really sorry I fell asleep last night during my favorite food show, "Kitchen Nightmares," starring the irascible chef Gordon Ramsay as a shining knight who rides to the rescue of foundering restaurants. I'm getting messages from restaurant critics around the country who are mightly upset about the restaurant critic featured on last night's show. Apparently she announced herself at the outset, appeared on camera, and got in a tiff with one of the owners, none of which any respectable critic would do.

Once I catch up on my sleep I'll have to check out the episode on the show's Web site, here. I've already checked out the snooze of a review by the critic who appeared on the show, Sabrina Mashburn of Dan's Papers in the Hamptons.