Appetizers

You've probably heard for some time that Fresh & Easy Neighborhood Market was going to give Trader Joe's a run for its money and set up new stores around the Sacramento area. Look for five Fresh & Easy stores to open in early March, with its line of ready-to-cook meals and house branded products that feature competitive prices. According to a release, the openings of these five stores will create "100 good jobs with benefits" locally. The British-based company currently operates stores around southern California, and in Nevada and Arizona.

One change to earlier plans: Fresh & Easy will not open on Fair Oaks Blvd. in the former Ethan Allen furnishings store. Here's the list of stores and their grand opening dates:

MARCH 7

Mack Rd. & Franklin Blvd.
Watt & El Camino

MARCH 14

Lincoln & Sterling in Lincoln
Elk Grove Blvd. & Calvine Rd.
Natoma St & Blue Ravine in Folsom.

For more information: www.freshandeasy.com

Brewster's Bar & Grill, which is housed in a 19th century renovated building in downtown Galt, will be closed until Monday as the business undergoes an ownership change. Its team of opening owners - Jason Boggs, Alex Origoni and Garrett Van Vleck - have stepped away from the business, which is being taken over by an as-yet unnamed owner. Boggs, Origoni and Van Vleck are also the proprietors behind the Shady Lady Saloon on Sacramento's R St. corridor.

According to Boggs, the Brewster's name will stay and D&S Development, which owns the building and also the developer behind numerous central city projects in Sacramento, will remain as a business partner in Brewster's. Boggs said sales weren't the main reason for backing out of Brewster's, which opened in May 2011.

"It's not like there were huge profits, but they were there," said Boggs. "What it comes down to is we wanted to focus on other projects. We were spreading ourselves too thin. Somebody was interested in (Brewster's) and we decided to take them up on it."

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

You could find some of the best hot dogs in the area at Elk Grove's Heavenly Dog - that is, until it shut down its space near Bond Rd. and Highway 99 at the end of January. But fear not, fans of the 'dog. Instead of continuing with a brick-and-mortar location, Heavenly Dog has opted to go mobile and focus on its food truck.

Heavenly Dog launched its food truck in December, and debuted at the Sacto MoFo 3 food truck festival at Eighth and W streets. That's since been Heavenly Dog's only appearance on the local mobile food scene, but plans to be running full-time starting in early March.

Owner Nicky Smith said mobile food looks to be a better business plan for her line of fine hot dogs.

Anyone out there love a glass of syrah, that juicy red wine known for its full body and forward flavors? The grape's a signature of the Rhone in France, and especially dense and powerful versions of syrah are produced in Australia - though in the Land Down Under, the grape's called "shiraz." Syrah also has a home in the Sierra Foothills, which has the growing conditions and soils that work well with Rhone-styled wines.

So, how about a taste of that Sierra Foothills syrah? Feb. 16 has been designated by wine marketers that be as "Syrah Day," and you can get free tastes from eight El Dorado County wineries that day. The event will be held at the El Dorado Hills California Welcome Center (2085 Vine St., El Dorado Hills) from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Participating wineries include: David Girard Vineyards, Sierra Vista Vineyards & Winery, Lava Cap Winery, Boeger Winery, Shadow Ranch Vineyard, Crystal Basin Cellars, Grace Patriot Wines and Mount Aukum Winery.

For more information: (916) 358-3700

As "Appetizers" first reported, Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen is opening its first brick-and-mortar location which can be found at Republic Bar and Grill (908 15th St., Sacramento). Located at the former spot of Dream Ultra Lounge, grand opening festivities will kick off this weekend, starting with a grand opening party at 7 p.m. You can also catch some gnarly UFC fight action starting at 4 p.m. Saturday and a Super Bowl party on Sunday afternoon.

The menu created by Andrew "Drewski" Blaskovich includes a range of burgers, hot dogs wrapped in bacon, egg roll-like "spark plugs" and a burger with a 5-pound patty aka the "18 Wheeler" that costs $40 - or free, if you can woof it down during a specified amount of time.

A second Drewski's food truck will also be running "very very soon," said Blaskovich.

"We'll be doing more menu options because we now have test kitchen," said Blaskovich. "We're able to store more stuff and have more fun with the menu. Food trucks are my baby and the brick-and-mortar is a platform to gain more of a client base."

"Appetizers" recently shared the news that Kelly McCown was leaving his executive chef position at Ella Dining Room & Bar to head Goose & Gander, a new restaurant in the Napa Valley located in the former Martini House. Now, there's another connection. Marcus Marquez, former owner of L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen, has joined Goose & Gander's team as its general manager and partner.

Marcus, who ran the L with wife Kolea before shutting down in July due to money and legal issues, will move his family to St. Helena in the summer. Goose & Gander's aiming for an early April opening, meaning Marcus Marquez will be doing some commuting between Napa and Sacramento for a few months. The expectations are meanwhile high for Goose & Gander, which was recently named by Zagat.com as one of the Bay Area's "17 hottest openings of 2012."

The opportunity took shape for Marquez after attending McCown's farewell dinner at Ella. Since the L's closure, Marquez took a job with the distributor Epic Wines and spent many working days in Napa.

And the burger related posts keep rolling today on "Appetizers" ... along with word about Ella Dining Room & Bar offering its new "bipartisan burger" special, local fans of "fast-casual" dining can sink into news that Smashburger is opening its Elk Grove location at 10 a.m. Wednesday. This south area franchise at 7701 Laguna Blvd. in Elk Grove marks the Sacramento area's fifth Smashburger location. And evidently, Sacramentans love their burgers. The San Diego area is the only other part of California which boasts Smashburger eateries.

Smashburger has gained a following with burger aficionados for making their food to order and using a meatball-sized mound of Angus beef which is then "smashed" into a patty shape over a buttered grill. In a 2010 review of Smashburger's Citrus Heights location (5500 Sunrise Blvd., Citrus Heights), the Bee's Al Pierleoni awarded Smashburger a notable 3 out of 4 stars and a hearty thumbs up on its "juicy burgers."

Hours will be be 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. For more information: www.smashburger.com

Despite the Sacramento Kings' dismal season on the court this far, here's something that local wine fans with a fandom for sports can toast. Selections from Rail Bridge Cellars, the urban Sacramento winery located just north of downtown, are now being poured at Power Balance Pavilion.

So, if you're looking to wash that King Dog down with something besides the same ol' beer or soda, you can instead savor some sips of Rail Bridge Cellars 2007 Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc or their Boredeaux blend known as Lattice. Other Rail Bridge Cellars options at Power Balance Pavilion include the 2009 Chardonnay Sienna and a 2007 merlot made from Napa Valley grapes.

Look for the wines at Power Balance Pavilion's wine kiosk and its Skyline Bar. The folks behind Rail Bridge Cellars, a small winery which is on track to produce about 1,400 cases of wine this year, consider this Power Balance Pavilion product placement a slam dunk.

The Unified Wine & Grape Symposium wrapped up Thursday, taking over the Sacramento Convention Center and Hyatt Regency for three days of workshops and a wine industry trade show, and this year's convention attracted record attendance of 12,400. That number is up 200 guests from the previous record of 12,200 set in 2011. And that's a gain of 700 attendees from 2010, which saw a slight drop from the previous year at Unified.

The Convention Center was meanwhile packed with nearly 650 vendors showing off the latest in winemaking and grape growing technologies, and much more in what's billed as the western hemisphere's largest wine industry trade show. That number's up about 20 vendors from 2011, and the challenge for Unified organizers is finding more space for those who want to show off their wares. In recent years, Unified has taken over the third floor and a chunk of the first floor lobby at the Convention Center to accommodate all those who want to show off their wares. The running joke at Unified is they might have to start adding trade show booths in the restrooms. Meanwhile, there's already a waiting list to vend at Unified 2013.

Here's a link to a wrap-up of Unified's "state of the industry" presentation, and another story about Unified's major impact on local restaurant business.

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

Today marks the Year of the Dragon in the Chinese zodiac, but around Sacramento it might as well be the Year of the Pig. The inagural Bacon Fest ran from Friday through Sunday, with some two dozen Sacramento area restaurants participating, and marked by packed events and food shortages from the bacon-hungry hordes. Pangaea Two Brews Cafe reported its busiest day ever due to its Saturday Bacon Fest event which featured bacon and beers specials. Because of this whopping success, Pangaea was closed on Sunday for an employee appreciation day.

Founded by local musician and bacon aficionado Brian Guido and Nick Miller, managing editor of the Sacramento News & Review, just five official events were planned when Bacon Fest was announced two weeks ago. Once word got out, that number jumped to 24 participating venues, including Samuel Horne's Tavern in Folsom, the Shady Lady and Lucca restaurant.

Highlights included "Kevin Bacon Tribute Night" on Friday at Luigi's Slice Fungarden, with local bands cranking out tunes from Kevin Bacon movies (think: "Footloose" and favorites from "Animal House" - "thank you sir, may I please have another!"), and a Bacon Fest breakfast at Magpie Cafe. Big crowds and bacon shortages turned out to the norm.

Needless to say, plans are already being formed for Bacon Fest 2013. Also look for a few one-off Bacon Fest events as the year moves along, including a "BLT Day" once the tomato season arrives.

This just in: Got a call from one of the organizers of Sacto MoFo, which has thrown mobile food truck festivals around the Sacramento area for the past year, and a new event is coming April 21. Full details will be announced soon, but alcohol sales will be included for the first time and live music will also be added to this event.

The SactoMofo folks intended to throw a similar mobile food festival with a beer garden at Power Balance Pavilion in December, but after some logistical problems about cooking indoors with propane, the event was moved to Eighth and W streets. 23 food trucks participated and attracted more than 4,000 customers.

So where will this latest food truck festival be held, and which vendors are participating? We'll let you know as soon as we do.

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

Workers at the California Board of Equalization building at 4th and N streets who showed up Tuesday and hoping to get lunch or coffee at its cafeteria were out of luck. The cafeteria abruptly shut down over the weekend due to "personal reasons" from vendor Darren Simonds. The cafeteria is expected to be closed for the next two weeks while a new vendor is secured.

A coffee kiosk has since been installed to service the building's 1,900 employees, and the vending machines were re-stocked, according to Board of Equilization spokesperson Jaime Garza. There's also been outreach to Sacramento's food trucks to help fill those hunger pains in the interim, and the Board of Equilization is working with the City of Sacramento to extend the parking limits for food trucks while the cafeteria remains closed. Under current city ordinance, food trucks must move every 30 minutes. The sandwich truck Wicked 'Wich has already made a stop at the building this week, and Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen also plans to feed the civil servant masses there, said Drewski's owner Andrew Blaskovich.

The Board of Equalization's cafeteria utilizes the Department of Rehabilitation's Business Enterprise Program, which trains the legally blind to operate food service entities. Simonds shut down his cafeteria operations without giving any prior notice, said Garza.

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

About a year ago, The Bee dropped by Rogers Family Company in Lincoln to check out its coffee operation and learn about its philanthropic efforts in Panama. The coffee company roasts beans under a variety of brand names, including San Francisco Bay Coffee and the Organic Coffee Co.

Now, the company's released "Rare Find," a fair trade coffee with proceeds to benefit the wild cat conservation organization Panthera. The coffee costs $11.99 for a 12-ounce bag and $22.99 for 2 pounds of whole beans, and 20 percent of online sales will to towards Panthera's efforts to protect jaguars. 10 percent of wholesaler and distributor sales will also go toward this cause.

"We are honored to work with Panthera to preserve the jaguar - which is one of nature's treasures and one of the great symbols of the wild- for future generations," said Jon B. Rogers, the president of Rogers Family Company, in a statement. "We hope that Rare Find coffee can make a meaningful contribution to the effort to save jaguars in coffee growing regions where we've seen firsthand how our industry can play an important role in preserving nature."

For more information: Rogers Family Company

Have you ever checked out Yoshi's, the live music spot and Japanese dinner house with locations in San Francisco and Oakland? A new Sacramento spot, Antigua Cantina & Grill, aspires to be the local equivalent and with a Latin twist. So far, Antigua has booked Salvador Santana - son of famed guitarist Carlos Santana, and a fine musician in his own right - to play at Antigua on March 9.

Meanwhile, Antigua is undergoing a few months of soft launching. Located in the former Three Monkeys spot at 723 K St. - which catered to those who wanted sushi, pork sliders and bratwurst in a single setting a.k.a. hardly anyone - Antigua's formal grand opening won't be until May 5 aka Cinco de Mayo. For now, Antigua is open for happy hour and as a nightclub from Thursdays through Saturdays.

Antigua will also host a tequila tasting on Wednesday at 6 p.m., which costs $20 and includes samples of Avion (aka Turtle's tequila from "Entourage") and Tequila Clase Azul. Attendees also get three appetizers, including pan roasted gulf prawns with walnut cilatro pesto.

Chef Billy Zoellin left the Golden Bear (24th and K streets, Sacramento) just before the midtown eatery and watering hole hit the national airwaves. In January of 2011, the Golden Bear was featured on the Food Networks' "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives," with host Guy Fieri chowing down on Zoellin's food including banh mi sandwiches and tacos. But by the time the episode aired, Zoellin split to raise his son and work at the Crocker Cafe.

But like a gastropub prodigal son, Zoellin returned to cook at the Golden Bear about three weeks ago. Sous chef Dave Avender had taken over Zoellin's kitchen duties, and Avender will continue to lead the kitchen team even with Zoellin's return.

"I'm not in charge and that's kind of the reason I came back," said Zoellin. "I'm here to help, and I'm going back to school as well."

It's the beginning of a new year, meaning it's time to work out those resolutions to lose weight - which just happens to coincide with crab feed season. And as The Bee reported today, a second wave of Dungeness crab is about reach consumers soon. So grab your crab feed bib and fork, and prepare to chow down.

But here's what we'd like to know: Which are the best crab feeds around Sacramento? Not only would we like to share this information with readers, but The Bee would like to feature one of these crab feeds for our well-viewed page of local events photos a.k.a. Snapshots.

Let us know in the comments section ... thanks and happy crab feeding!

After a couple of delays, the El Dorado Hills location of Selland's Market Cafe (4370 Town Center Blvd. #120, El Dorado Hills) is finally set for a grand opening on Jan. 30. Like its flagship eatery at 5340 H St. in east Sacramento, this second Selland's will specialize in hand-crafted forms of comfort food (think: mac 'n cheese, pizza, sandwiches and salads with a gourmet touch) plus wine tasting and a bottle shop. The El Dorado Hills version, however, will be about 1,000 square feet larger than the H St. location and accommodate seating for 100 inside, plus another 40 on the patio. Also look for a larger wine shop, with a selection ranging from budget-friendly bottles to special occasion wines.

For more information, surf over to the newly redesigned sellands.com.

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

Two local wineries are greeting 2012 with especially coveted news: They've made the cut for the third annual WSJwine Annual Dozen. Also known as the Wall Street Journal's wine club, which touts more than 100,000 active customers, its Annual Dozen selects best-of-the-year wines in two categories and offers them for sale.

But to make the cut, the wines must make their way through a series of blind tasting panels, with the judging led by best-selling wine author Hugh Johnson. So, let's give it up for Scott Harvey Wines of Sutter Creek and Lodi's Borra Vineyards, which were each selected in "America's 12 Smartest Wine Buys" for the Annual Dozen.

Scott Harvey Wines scored for its 2008 Mountain Selection Barbera, which sells for $29.99 and described as "lively, very fresh and quite delicious" by judge and Master of Wine Justin Howard-Sneyd.

Over at Borra Vineyards, there's a double celebration going on this week. Along with its selection in WSJwine's "America's 12 Smartest Wine Buys" for its 2008 Red Fusion, the 2009 vintage of this wine scored a double-gold medal over the weekend at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

In a move to fill seats during the normally down month of January, this year's edition of Dine Downtown Restaurant Week launches today and runs through Jan. 18. More than two dozen downtown and midtown restaurants are participating, and will feature 3-course prix fixe dinners for $30 a head. It's a pretty good deal for those looking to sample from eateries that might normally be outside the household budget, though it's still not necessarily a cheap night out if you do the math. By the time the bill comes for a table of two, including parking/valet and some kind of beverages, plus tip, the tab can easily come to $75 on the lower end. That's still a relative deal when considering the usual tariff when dining in some of Sacramento's top tier restaurants, but are too many people still being priced out during Dine Downtown Restaurant Week? How about some other options that could show off fine local food closer to the $20 range, or Dine Downtown programs that don't lock people into a prix fixe menu?

Either way, local chefs have some tasty looking menus planned for the next 10 days, including those from Restaurant Thi13en, Ella and The Porch, which recently opened and am hearing a strong buzz that the food's pretty solid over there.

For a full list of Dine Downtown participants and link to menus, click here.

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

The local food truck industry continues growing, with a mobile food vendor that specializes in sandwiches that launched recently. Meet Coast To Coast Sandwiches, which includes po' boys, philly cheesesteaks and New York-styled pastrami among its mobile food offerings. The truck and its $7 sandwiches launched in November, just in time for the Sacto MoFo 3 festival, and is the brainchild of Robert Ramos and Sean Figueroa.

These two local culinary school graduates first had plans to open a brick-and-mortar sandwich shop, but switched gears so to speak after figuring a mobile food concept would be a better business plan. They still plan to open a stand-alone sandwich shop, and hope to build its brand recognition first through its food truck.

For now, Coast To Coast Sandwiches works off a fixed schedule (Update: this schedule starts next week): Mondays will be at Goodyear tires on 11th and I street, Tuesdays are a trip to Prospect Park in Rancho Cordova, it's downtown near 12th and O streets on Wednesdays, Thursdays will cater to DMV workers on 24th St. near Broadway and Fridays mean a stop at the CalPERS building near 4th and Q streets.

Look for a new executive chef to be heading Ella Dining Room & Bar starting Feb. 1. His name is Michael Thiemann, and is currently executive chef with the San Francisco Bay area's Wayfare Tavern and Hawks Tavern. If Thiemann's name sounds familiar, it might be because he's a former Sacramento local who started his culinary career at the now-defunct Greta's Cafe. He has since landed chef gigs in New Zealand, Hawaii and most recently with the Tyler Florence restaurants Wayfare Tavern and Hawks Tavern.

The owners of Ella conducted a national search after chef Kelly McCown put in notice that he was returning to Napa wine country. McCown will be chef at Goose & Gander, located in the former Martini House - a restaurant where McCown once worked before coming to Sacramento about two years ago.

For Thiemann's try-out at Ella, he prepared a range of dishes including salmon crudo, a sous vide 1/2 chicken, lamb shanks and other items. His managerial experience with Tyler Florence's restaurant group helped seal this deal.

Fresh for 2012, the midtown location for the venerable Squeeze Inn opens today at 1630 K St., in the former space used by Infusion Cafe. Whenever the topic of "best burger in Sacto." comes up, Squeeze Inn can pretty much be counted on to be name checked, especially the "squeeze with cheese" which comes with its skirt of fried cheese. Along with big ol' burgers that taste so good but will make your cardiologist wince, its menu also includes a variety of sandwiches.

This midtown location marks the fifth eatery in Squeeze Inn's growing empire. Its original location opened in south Sacramento with a mere 12 stools, but moved to more spacious digs at 5301 Power Inn Rd. after being targeted in a lawsuit claiming violations of the Americans With Disabilities Act. The suit has since been dropped.

Squeeze Inn has also opened locations in Roseville (106 N. Sunrise Ave.), West Sacramento (1350 Harbor Blvd.) and Galt (545 Industrial Dr.). Squeeze Inn was also featured in a segment on the Food Network's "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" back in 2010.

In terms of local burger wars, yours truly has always felt Squeeze Inn is a bit overrated. My personal pick is the ground French steakburger from Nationwide Freezer Meats (1930 H St., Sacramento). But more importantly: Who gets your vote for best local burger? Leave your choices in the comments section.

Chris Macias is the Bee's food and wine writer. Follow him on Twitter @chris_macias

After managing the masses at the mall and stringing oodles of holiday lights, leaving the cooking to someone else on Christmas Eve couldn't be a better gift. A variety of Sacramento restaurants will be ready to serve with special holiday menus and extended hours in some cases.

But, if you want to get a table at some of the area's fine dining establishments, better book a table soon. The Firehouse in Old Sacramento, which is offering a chef's tasting menu along with its regular offerings, will be open until 10 p.m. on Christmas Eve but is close to sold out. The remaining reservations start at 8:15.

At Sienna restaurant in El Dorado Hills, its Christmas Eve reservations are completely booked but still taking names for a waiting list. In Roseville, diners who want to sample La Provence's "menu de noel," a prix fix menu for $45 and $12 for children 10 and under, should prepare to eat on the earlier end. Just a few reservations are currently available at 4 p.m. and 4:15.

January generally doubles as the downtime for the restaurant industry. After all of the holiday shopping's been done, and folks feel a little economically hung over, dining out tends to take a back seat for many consumers. So, here's one way that Sacramento's restaurant community tries to keep those seats filled each January: Dine Downtown, which includes 10-days of specials at a variety of central city restaurants.

Organized by the Downtown Partnership, Dine Downtown runs Jan. 9 through Jan. 18, with three-course prix fix menus costing $30 per person. 29 restaurants will participate this time around, including four new eateries: The Porch (located in the former Celestin's), Tequila Museo Mayahuel, Restaurant Thir13en, Blue Prynt.

"Dine Downtown provides restaurants a huge boost at the start of the new year," said Michael Ault, executive director for Downtown Partnership, in a statement. "We estimate that the event generates just over $1 million in restaurant sales and parking revenue in just 10 days."

Here's the full list of participating restaurants, courtesy of the Downtown Partnership: Fires Lounge, 4th Street Grille, Biba Restaurant, Blue Prynt, The Broiler Steakhouse, Cafeteria 15L, Capitol Garage, Chops Steak Seafood & Bar, Dawson's at the Hyatt, deVere's Irish Pub, Ella Dining Room & Bar, Esquire Grill, Fat City Bar & Café, The Firehouse Restaurant, Frank Fat's, Grange Restaurant at The Citizen, Il Fornaio, Kupros Bistro, The Melting Pot, Morgan's at the Sheraton, Paragary's Bar and Oven, Pilothouse, The Porch, Restaurant Thir13en, Rio City Café, Spataro, Tequila Museo Mayahuel, Ten 22, and Tulí Bistro.

After a second year of unseasonably cool temperatures, the grape tonnage has been tallied and the results are ready. According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture, 3.3 million tons of wine grapes were harvested in the 2011 growing season, a 9 percent drop from the previous year.

That's not too much of a surprise considering the cold shoulder that Mother Nature gave to Northern California this year, with its wet spring and temperate summer. The grape harvest started about three weeks late in Lodi, with growers hoping for warm weather to help their grapes reach ripeness.

This year's total pales compared with 2009, when 3.7 million tons of grapes were harvested - the second largest amount in California's history. But as the saying goes, good things come in small packages.

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Food lovers wait in line at Drewski's mobile food truck during the Sacramento Mobile Food Festival at Fremont Park on Saturday April 30, 2011. Lezlie Sterling, Sacramento Bee

February is shaping up to be a big month for Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, the popular local food truck that specializes in grilled sandwiches (think: aged Havarti cheese melted over Korean braised beef, kimchee and other goodness). Not only is Drewski's planning to launch its second truck on Feb. 1, but a new sports bar coming to downtown will host a brick-and-mortar version of Drewski's. Located in the former Dream Ultra Lounge, Drewski's will operate out of The Republic (908 15th St., Sacramento) which will feature pool tables, plenty of TVs showing sports events and an expanded menu from Drewski's. Look for it to open right around the beginning of February.

The Republic will act as a kind of home base for Drewski's and provide much coveted storage for its food trucks.

"This will save us money," said Andrew Blaskovich, the restaurateur behind Drewski's. "On the trucks we have a limited amount of space, so I'm constantly shopping. With the labor, gas cost and time it's challenging."

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Morgan Song, owner and Executive Chef of Ambience, drizzles burgundy-apricot nappage on venison tenderloin, a sixth course in a 7-course meal at his restaurant in Sacramento. Andy Alfaro, Sacramento Bee

File this one under: Oooops! In yesterday's news about The Kitchen and Carpe Vino of Auburn making the list of OpenTable's "diner's choice awards" for Top 100 Best Restaurants in the United States, yours truly overlooked Ambience of Carmichael also making the cut. Like The Kitchen, Ambience specializes in prix fix menus, which in this case are $55 for five courses or $75 for seven courses prepared by executive chef Morgan Song.

Ambience is also a favorite of Blair Anthony Robertson, the Bee's esteemed restaurant critic, who raved in a four-star review earlier this year: "Giving this chef room to show off with a seven-course dinner evokes thoughts of Frank Sinatra with a microphone or Miles Davis on trumpet. He's just that good. If he ever puts out his 10-course dream menu, watch out."

Well heck, if Song is the Miles Davis of the local food scene I wonder which one of his courses is the equivalent of "Blue In Green?" Check BAR's full review here (which compares prix fix dining at Ambience and The Kitchen).

For more information: www.ambiencerestaurantsac.com or (916) 489-8464.

The sound of clinking glasses and congratulations continue on the local food and wine scene. Fresh off the news that four local wineries made Wine Enthusiast magazine's list of the Top 100 wines, The Kitchen and Auburn's Carpe Vino were both ranked in OpenTable's "diner's choice awards" for Top 100 Best Restaurants in the United States. OpenTable, the popular online restaurant reservation system, compiled the list from more than 10 million reviews submitted by OpenTable users over 12,000 restaurants.

The news is doubly sweet for Carpe Vino, which was also ranked in OpenTable's list of the Top 50 restaurant wine lists. Only four restaurants nationally were ranked in both of OpenTable's lists for best wine list and best restaurants, noted Carpe Vino owner Gary Moffat.

Meanwhile, the staff at The Kitchen is also celebrating news that they're being awarded 5 diamonds from AAA, one of the most prestigious ratings in the domestic dining industry. Look for this to be announced formally around the new year.

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Jim Moore of Uvaggio wines checks on a vineyard of grapes near Lodi. Chris Macias, Sacramento Bee.

2011's winding down, which means it's time for lists honoring the best wines of the year. And in this bit of good fortune, four local wineries received accolades in Wine Enthusiast magazine's "The Enthusiast 100." They are (cue drum roll):

Michel David of Lodi for its 2008 6th Sense Syrah (#11), Uvaggio 2009 Moscato Secco from Lodi (#25), Easton 2009 Monarch Mine Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc from the Sierra Foothills (#30) and Terre Rouge 2009 Viognier from the Shenandoah Valley (#63). (Note that both Easton and Terre Rogue are made by winemaker Bill Easton, and his "Easton" wines are non-Rhone varietals).

The nod from Wine Enthusiast was especially nice for Jim Moore of Uvaggio, a winery which specializes in Lodi-grown Italian varietals. Moore rarely sends his wines out for review, and when facing a world of competition from Bordeaux, Napa, the Rhone and other wine hot spots, he was happy to see Lodi get some love.

Now here's some good news for those who have a wine lover on their holiday shopping list. The Kitchen and its sister restaurant, Selland's Market Cafe, are offering 20% off all retail wines on Saturday. Though The Kitchen (2225 Hurley Way, Sacramento) sells retail bottles by appointment, tomorrow its doors will be wide open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. for the 20% off wine sale. Now this is a wine list that runs especially deep, offering such coveted California "cult" wines as Screaming Eagle, Bond, Harlan and Kongsgaard. But you don't need to spend hundreds of dollars to score a special bottle. Look for wines from Sequoia Grove, Audelssa and Bridesmaid to nab some great gift bottles in the $50-$70 range.

Over at Selland's (5340 H St., Sacramento), some special wines can be had for about the price of a pizza. Long before I started writing about food, this was always one of my go-to shops for wine, a place where I could ogle at a bottle of Shafer Hillside Select or Blankiet on the shelves but still opt for a tasteful budget Bordeaux or Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d'Asti. Look for a variety of local producers and moderately priced sparkling wines as well. The 20% off sale runs from 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

And just for the record, I've been more nice than naughty this year, so I'll add a bottle of 1997 Dalla Valle to my holiday wish list 8)

Hey, home cook, think you have the goods to be on Fox's "MasterChef?" Think you can withstand the heat in the kitchen while host Gordon Ramsay scrutinizes your every move? Well, brush up on those recipes and knife skills because there's a casting call for "MasterChef" on Saturday in San Francisco. We know it's a bit of late notice to make the haul to San Francisco, but hey, you know there's a $250,000 grand prize at stake, right? The producers also want to tap into Sacramento's culinary talent pool and are offering 10 front of the line passes to Sacramento home chefs who make the trip. Here's where it all goes down:

Le Cordon Bleu
350 Rhode Island St
San Francisco, CA 94103

The casting call runs from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and you're asked to bring your best home baked dish. For those front of line passes, send an e-mail to: vanessa.bond@yahoo.com.

For more information and all the fine print for audition information: www.masterchefcasting.com

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Patrons Jerrold Anub, left, and Elaine Dano of Rancho Cordova receive their food through the window of the 'Mini Burger' food truck in Sacramento on Saturday, December 3, 2011. Randy Pench, Sacramento Bee

You'd think the competition would be especially steep for local food trucks at Saturday's Sacto MoFo 3 mobile food festival. With such favorite Bay Area food trucks in the mix, including Chairman Bao and Seoul On Wheels, you'd think that locals would flock to the trucks that might only stop in the area a couple times a year. But even late in the afternoon, the local food trucks were getting plenty of love in the form of long lines.

Late in the day, Sacramento's own MiniBurger was pulling the longest lines by far. Anyone remember the three-hour wait for Chairman Bao at the first Sacto MoFo? By 4 p.m. you could get your order in less than 5 minutes. Meanwhile, MiniBurger set a personal sales record and cranked out more than 500 orders - a 10% increase over its previous record which was set at the inaugural Sacto MoFo. Overall, Sacto MoFo 3 drew about 5,000 people, according to the festival organizers.

On the heels of a food truck festival coming Saturday to downtown Sacramento, a public meeting is being held tonight in Elk Grove to discuss Elk Grove's current mobile vending ordinances. While current ordinances in Sacramento mandate that food trucks have to move every 30 minutes, in Elk Grove food trucks can only stay parked for 15 minutes and then must move at least 1,000 feet. Food trucks operating in Elk Grove also have a time limit of selling between 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. However, food trucks can vend on private property with permission from the owner, which has led to some mobile food truck round-ups on the occasional Thursday in Elk Grove.

Tonight's 6 p.m. meeting and public workshop, which will be held at Elk Grove City Hall's Council Chambers (8400 Laguna Palms Way, Elk Grove), will invite public comment from mobile food vendors, residents, brick-and-mortar restaurant owners and other interested parties.

"Over the past couple months, the city has received an increase in inquiries about operating mobile food trucks," said Sarah Kirchgessner, senior planner with the Elk Grove Planning Department. "We're looking to possibly update current regulations and want to have public input."

Sacramento's got one heck of a sweet tooth. Think about all the cupcake shops and boutique bakeries that have opened around the area in the past couple years, with mini pies being the latest dessert du jour. Now, comes word that Nothing Bundt Cakes will open on Thursday in Roseville. This bakery franchise has headquarters in Las Vegas with locations all around California, Texas, Tennessee and other states.

Just like the "punny" name suggests, Nothing Bundt Cakes specializes in bundt cakes of all kinds. Offerings range from single-serving "Bundlets" to Brontosaurus sized bundts that can feed up to 26 people.

Grand opening specials include free Bundtlets for a year for the first 50 people who show up on Saturday. A ribbon cutting ceremony will be held next Tuesday that includes Roseville mayor Pauline Roccucci and Nothing Bundt Cakes local bakery owners (Cameron and Shelly Diviak and Greg and Kathy Leuterio).

Nothing Bundt Cakes is located at 1112 Galleria Blvd. at Roseville Parkway. For more information: www.nothingbundtcakes.com.

We know it's been a trying few years for state workers, given the days of Furlough Fridays, pay cuts and attempts by then-Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger to pay state workers minimum wage. Downtown business that cater to state workers have also felt the pinch, with folks holding tighter to their disposable income or not even being around due to mandatory days off.

Civil servants, you now have something to celebrate. Broadacre Coffee (1014 10th St., Sacramento) is hosting a "state worker appreciation week" from Dec. 5 to Dec. 9. Here's how it works: Drop by Broadacre Coffee, show your state worker badge, and you'll be privy to a variety of specials. State worker deals include free coffee, free tea, a free Doughbot donut and even a free 30g bag of coffee beans. Score!

For more information: broadacrecoffee.com

While midtown's L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen remains closed and seeks a new tenant for the space, co-owner Marcus Marquez recently landed a new job on the wine sales side. He's now working for the distributor Epic Wines, meaning he's now on the other side of the business and will be trying to get Epic Wines' selections placed at restaurants and wine bars. Epic Wines' portfolio includes such Napa producers as Darioush and Cliff Lede, along with the local wineries Amador Foothill and CG DiArie. Marquez will also be representing Epic Wines' spirits offerings, including Corazon de Jalisco tequila and Cognac du Peyrat.

The move brings Marquez back to his roots. Before opening L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen four years ago with wife Kolea, Marquez was a representative for Paul Bullard & Associates, which sold such boutique wines as Marcassin and Karl Lawrence. Now, he's pitching some of his former employees who are now at new restaurants to try and get placement for Epic Wines' selections.

Meanwhile, the L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen remains closed, following a shut down in July due to legal and money issues. Marquez and his ownership group are being sued by J.C. Builders contracting firm, claiming it hasn't been paid for more than $50,000 worth of work. The restaurant filed a countersuit for "faulty and defective work" in its heating and air conditioning system.

Some restaurateurs, both local and in the Bay Area, have since shown interest in taking over the L's space at 1801 L St. but so far there are no takers. Marquez hopes this changes soon.

"If someone wants to go in and make it work, I would love for it to be open," said Marquez. "The neighborhood deserves it."

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Hey y'all, guess what? Paula Deen is coming to Sacramento! The Food Network's champion of downhome cooking that may or may not be too good for you has a date set for Feb. 3 at the Sacramento Community Center Theater. The so-called "Queen of Southern Cuisine" will share stories and take questions from the audience in this unscripted show, and includes cooking demonstrations as well.

"Once I walk on stage, there's no telling what will happen," said Deen in a press release. "I always start with good intentions in the kitchen but by evening's end I'm so involved with the audience and crying with laughter. There is nothing better than an audience that wants to play!"

Deen hosts a whopping three shows on the Food Network, sharing such recipes as "Paula Deen's Uncle Bubba Wings" and "Paula Deen's It's Not Your Mamma's Banana Pudding Ice-Cream." But she's also taken some flack for the nutritional content of her food, with Barbara Walters taking Deen to task on "The View" for encouraging kids to have cheesecake for breakfast and chocolate cake for lunch. Awkward! Feel free to ask Deen about all this if you go to the show.

Tickets for the food-stravaganza go on sale Dec. 2 and priced at $44.75 and a $100 for a VIP ticket that includes a meet-and-greet with Deen. For more infornation: (916) 808-5181 or tickets.com.

If you checked the Bee's food and wine section a couple weeks back, you would have read about the mini-pie movement that's taken off around the country. You'll find examples locally at TreyBCakes and Becky Jo Pies both online and at Corti Brothers.

And starting today, Icing on the Cupcake will sell its "sweetie pies" each Friday for $3 a pop. Their line of mini-pies starts with homemade apple crumb pie, and a pecan pie will be coming for the holidays. At the risk of sounding like an advertorial, we had a chance to sample some of these "sweetie pies" and were wowed by them, from the tender crust to the very tasty apple topping. If you're interested in pre-ordering some pies, call (916) 303-4333.

A grand opening bash is set for Saturday to celebrate the launch of Broadacre Coffee, which is located downtown at 1014 10th St. and the former digs of Temple Coffee (which moved in September to 1010 9th St.). The Broadacre Coffee party will include plenty of freebies, including complimentary coffee and giveaways of brewing equipment and coffee bags. The Mini Burger truck will also make an appearance at approximately 6 p.m., and Broadacre Coffee is picking up the tab for the first $500 worth of orders.

Broadcare Coffee is run by brothers Lucas Elia and Leyland Jacob, who formerly ran the now-shuttered Pause Lounge & Kitchen in Roseville. The two are also the former owners of Roseville's Bloom Coffee & Tea who sold their interest in the business. Two of Bloom's former baristas, Justin Kerr and Andrew Lopez, are also acting as owners/operators of Broadacre Coffee.

At Broadacre Coffee, the cafe currently features such brews as Verve Coffee Roasters (Santa Cruz, CA), Coava Coffee Roasters (Portland, OR), Ritual Coffee Roasters (San Francisco, CA) and Intelligentsia Coffee (Los Angeles, CA).

Saturday's grand opening party runs from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. For more information: broadacrecoffee.com or (916) 442.1085.

Bam! Chef Emeril Lagasse is paying to tribute this week to the honorable men and women serving in the United States' armed forces by showing off some southern style cooking. On Friday, "Emeril's Table" will feature a group serving in the Navy, Coast Guard and Marines, including T.J. Milani of Woodland. Miliani, who's currently serving in the Navy, will be treated along with his fellow sea service men and women to oven fried catfish, collard greens with garlicky cornbread and more.

The episode will air on Friday at 11 a.m. PT on the Hallmark channel - or 1100 military time. If you want a heads-up on one of the recipes for these "lightened southern favorites," you're in luck. Bam!

Well, that was quick. Before you can say, "And now, a word from our sponsors," Sacramento's Tyler Stone was given the boot within minutes of "Top Chef: Texas'" season debut Wednesday night. Stone, a local private chef, joined 28 other "Top Chef" contestants vying for 16 slots, wielding their knife skills and usual array of funky headbands and tattoos.

Stone, however, was immediately put on the chopping block by host Tom Colicchio after Sacramento's own botched a butchering job on a slab of pork. The decision must've gone down like a big hunk of humble pie, with the 23-year-old Stone shown earlier in the show bragging about cooking for celebrities and creating his own cookbooks in three and-a-half weeks.

"I think you should just leave now," said Colicchio, after looking at the remnants of Stone's butchering job.

Gonul Blum's cooking has kept east Sacramento tasty for the past eight years or so, first with Gonul's J Street Cafe and now Vanilla Bean Bistro at 3260 J St. She mixes Sacramento's seasonal bounty with dishes inspired by her native Turkey and beyond, and now you can learn some of her tips and recipes. Blum's kicking off a weekly cooking class at Vanilla Bean Bistro, starting this Tuesday at 6:30 p.m. You'll learn all the prep work and see the secrets for turning out such dishes as lentil soup and moussaka, a baked dish that includes lamb or beef with layered eggplant. Other courses for this inaugural cooking class include a seasonal green salad and Vanilla Bean bread pudding.

Blum needs a minimum of 10 participants for each weekly cooking class, with attendance topping out at 18.

The cost is $39.50 per person, and includes wine pairings and recipes. For more information: (916) 457-1155.

While some grocery stores are pulling Ben & Jerry's Schweddy Balls from store shelves due to its locker-room humor, the demand still appears to be high in Sacramento. The ice cream, which comes complete with fudge colored rum balls, was already hard to find since it's a limited edition ice cream. A spokesperson for SaveMart/Lucky's/FoodMaxx said their stores have never carried the item, which is based on a punchline from a popular "Saturday Night Live" skit.

Over at Taylor's Market in Land Park, however, they're still waiting for an order of Schweddy Balls to arrive.

"We have customers asking for it," said David Hunter, Taylor's grocery manager. "We've been trying to order it but they keep sending a different flavor. The whole thing kind of makes me laugh. It's one of my favorite SNL skits."

If you still have a hankering for Schweddy Balls, you can find this flavor at Nugget Market in Roseville. So far, manager Jonathan Giannini hasn't heard any complaints from customers since they first stocked the ice cream two weeks ago.

"People are buying it up and it's a quick mover," said Giannini.

While Sacramentans may still be smarting from a recent survey which ranked our city exceptionally low for dining, here's a new survey that showed two Sacramento are wine lists as being among the best in the country. Carpe Vino of Auburn and Sacramento's own Enotria both made the cut in OpenTable's "Top 50 Wine Lists in the U.S."

The survey was conducted among users of OpenTable, an online restaurant reservation system, from Oct. 2010 to Sept. 2011. While ranking in this national survey was a great score for Sacramento, what's surprising is how poorly northern California - especially San Francisco and Napa wine country - fared overall. Completely absent in this survey are such veritable temples of wine as San Francisco's Fifth Floor, Cyrus in Sonoma and the storied French Laundry in Napa.

Perhaps the age demographic of OpenTable skews younger - how many diners under 30 have the coin to pay about $500 for a table for two at French Laundry? - but regardless of the methodology, Gary Moffat of Carpe Vino couldn't be happier with the results.

"This came as a complete surprise," said Moffat. "I'm surprised with how many restaurants didn't make the list, but I think our wine list is accessible from a financial point of view. We don't do restaurant mark-ups. All our prices are retail plus $5 to open the bottle in our restaurant. If you're in our wine club, we waive the charge. If you ran the numbers on the amount of wine we sell, it would blow you away."

Click here for the complete list of winners

server.jpgIf you've ever wanted to say, "Councilmember, will you please bring the table more bread and an extra place setting," then Sunday night is your chance. Members of the Sacramento City Council, minus the mayor, will be acting as restaurant servers on Sunday night at Ella Dining Room & bar. The event is a fundraiser for the Sacramento Metropolitan Arts Commission's Cultural Arts Awards Program, which is taking a big hit from budget cuts.

SMAC's Arts in Public Places program helped bring the giant red rabbit to the new Terminal B, while its Cultural Arts Awards program provides grants for artists and other support.

Councilmember Darrell Fong, a local foodie who represents District 7, spearheaded this effort and brought his fellow councilmembers - though the Mayor will be out of town and not attend - on board to act as waiters. Also helping serve are Supervisors Don Nottoli, Roberta MacGlashan and Phil Serna.

The Sacramento area's second Total Wine & More will open Thursday at 2121 Arden Way, featuring more than 8,000 bottles of wine, plus spirits and beer. 78 Total Wine & More stores operate around the country, with a Roseville location opening in 2008. While this newest Total Wine & More will offer up some competition to a BevMo just down the street (3106 Arden Way, Sacramento), Total Wine & More goes deeper on the whole with its inventory of bottles. You'll find Costco-like prices on bottles ranging from first growth Bordeaux and trophy wines, to budget-priced table wines - all of which is great for the consumer, but perhaps not the best news for independent wine shops that've had a rough enough time over these last few years.

For more information: Total Wine & More

Just in time for the fall harvest, residents of our recession-weary region will now be able to use Electronic Benefits Transfer (EBT) payments at an increasing number of farmers markets in the Sacramento area. With assistance from the Alchemist Community Development Corporation, EBTs will be accepted at the following locations:

- Inderkum High School Farmers' Market (2500 New Market Dr, Sacramento), which operates Saturdays from May through Oct., from 9:00 a.m. to noon.

- Starting Thursday, Florin Sears Farmers' Market (Florin Rd. & 65th St.), which runs on Thursdays year-round from 8 a.m. to noon.

- Starting Nov. 6, Downtown State Parking Lot Farmers' Market (8th and W streets, Sacramento), which runs on Sundays year-round from 8 a.m. to noon.

For more information: www.alchemistcdc.org

It's the time of year when Curtis Park turns into wine country. The 21st annual Curtis Park Wine Tasting & Silent Auction will be held Saturday at the Sierra 2 Center (2791 24th St., Sacramento). The event runs from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. and focuses on food and drink from local sources, along with raffles and a silent auction. The window for buying discounted advance tickets has passed, but can be purchased at the door for $45.

For more information: (916) 452-3005 or www.sierra2.org.

Just got off the phone with Sacramento chef Tyler Stone, who's going to be featured on the upcoming season of "Top Chef: Texas." He's one of 29 chefs from around the country who made the cut for this season - which is twice as many contestants as previous seasons - but will be soon whittled down to 16 once the season kicks in Nov. 2 on Bravo.

Stone is something like the Doogie Howser of Sacramento's culinary scene: He enrolled in culinary school at age 11, cooked at The Kitchen with owner Randall Selland for local TV at age 13, and even has a cookbook under his belt ("The Kid's Cooking"). Now 23, Stone launched his own line of knives, and also works as a private chef around the Sacramento area and beyond. You can read about this and plenty more dish in my Q&A interview with Stone that's running in next Wednesday's Food & Wine section.

In the meantime, check out Stone's casting video from Top Chef's web site. The kid is a hoot ...

This just in: the cast has been revealed for Bravo's "Top Chef Texas" and Sacramento's own Tyler Stone made the cut. He's a 22-year-old personal chef who's cooked for the Sacramento Kings, the Doobie Brothers and a variety of dignitaries. We'll follow up soon on this when we touch base with Stone. In the meantime, "Top Chef: Texas" will air on Nov. 2. Stay tuned!

In this latest news on the local chef's scene, a change recently went down at Ettore's, the Fair Oaks Blvd. bakery and restaurant that also makes one of Sacramento's best burgers. Pedro Depina, the former executive chef of Selland's Market-Cafe, started Monday as the new executive chef at Ettore's (2376 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento; 916-482-0708). Depina also served as the executive sous chef for Ella Dining Room & Bar, before heading about a year ago to Selland's to lead its kitchen. Depina's resume also includes an eight-year run at Biba.

"It was a great opportunity that presented itself," said Depina. "To be the best, you have to work with the best and (owner Ettore Ravazzolo) is the best pastry chef in town. I'm excited to come and work with him."

At Ettore's, Depina plans to focus more closely on local and seasonal ingredients and also strive to make the restaurant as much of a destination as its bakery. The burger, which comes on a signature bun embedded with cheese and scallions, will remain untouched.

"If it's not broken, I'm not going to fix it," said Depina. "But I think I'm going to lighten up a few dishes and add my own twist, and for the most part keep it seasonal. In the fall I'm going to do a lot of braised and home-style dishes, and keep it rustic with a seasonal product-driven approach."

For more information: www.ettores.com

I scream, you scream, we all scream for ... free ice cream! That's right, Coldstone Creamery is offering a free 3 ounce ice cream from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. on Tuesday. It's all part of a campaign to support the Make-A-Wish Foundation, and Coldstone is asking customers to buy a $1 Make-A-Wish star before grubbing down on their ice cream, which comes topped with brownie and rainbow sprinkles and fudge. OK, so maybe this isn't exactly "free" but it's still a pretty sweet deal for a good cause, and thanks to our Sacramento Connect partner, Cowtown Eats, for pointing this one out.

Ella Dining Room & Bar (12th and K Streets, Sacramento) is commemorating its fourth anniversary with a deal that deserves its own toast. All bottles of champagne and bubbly are half-off through Saturday, ranging from domestic sparkling wines to some of France's most esteemed champagne houses. The celebration also includes a special $30 three-course prix fixe menu that includes such selections as an appetizer of ricotta gnocchi and lamb sirloin or pan seared Passmore Ranch trout as an entree. Click here for the full anniversary menu.

So which bubbly to buy at half-price? Here are a few suggestions, and take 50% off these noted list prices:

Budget: NV Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($44). This sparkler is one of the domestic wine world's most reliable producers, and with a sale price of just above $20, that's about the same price you'd find it at BevMo. A solid sparkler for an exceptional deal.

Just got paid: NV Ruinart Blanc de Blancs ($125). This chardonnay-based champagne is always a charmer with its rich body and tantalizing citrus flavors. A glass of this paired with the anniversary menu's appetizer of the local salad with peaches and nectarines will make your taste buds sing.

Baller status: MV Krug Grand Cuvee ($275). Ella's bubbly list offers plenty of fine champagne selections, including the 1985 Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rose ($288), but when in doubt - and have the cash flow - you've got to go with Krug. Just the name alone gives a Pavlovian kind of reaction with champagne aficionados, and one taste of this creamy, complex and flavor filled champagne will make you understand why.

For reservations: (916) 443-3772 or www.elladiningroomandbar.com

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CREDIT: Chef Pajo Bruich prepares creme fraiche with the anti-griddle at Lounge ON20. Andy Alfaro, Sacramento Bee

The Sacramento dining scene could use a little pick-me-up after a goofy Living Social ranked Sacramento second to last in a national dining survey. So here's some good news that speaks to the talent and fine food that can be found in this town: Midtown's Lounge ON20 just ranked No. 6 in a rating of the country's best restaurants for molecular gastronomy. Lounge ON20 (20th and K streets, Sacramento) ranked just behind the venerable French Laundry in this Top 10 list from Gayot, a restaurant guide that was launched in 1981. Alinea of Chicago, considered the nucleus of molecular gastronomy in the United States, earned the No. 1 spot.

To rewind, molecular gastronomy uses a bit of science and cutting edge cooking techniques to reimagine the texture and flavors of food. At Lounge ON20, you'll find that ethos applied to its tacos, which include a foam made of Tapatio hot sauce and a fantastic lime cured hamachi with compressed watermelon and "pears" of sweet Fresno chile.

September 21, 2011
Burgers and Brew expanding

Look for downtown's Burgers and Brew (1409 R St., Sacramento) to double its amount of beer taps in an expansion that's expected to be completed within a month. The eatery and brew pub is taking over the neighboring space from the now vacated Top This Yogurt. When completed, Burgers and Brew will have enough refrigeration space to accommodate 30 beer taps, up from 14 taps currently. More than 100 bottles are already carried.

"We started the expansion with the intention to get more beers," said co-owner Philippe Masoud. "We've been doing 'beers of the week' and specials, and there's so much demand in keeping every tap open."

Masoud said he doesn't expect Burgers and Brew to close for any extended period due to the extension. Meanwhile, the owners are looking to open sister pubs in Folsom and on the renovated K St. mall. Burgers and Brew will also open a location at Sacramento International Airport's new Terminal B, which is set for opening Oct. 6.

When it comes to California cabernet sauvignon, a bottle from Caymus Vineyards tends to be a real crowd pleaser, and a favorite of critics too. Its "Special Selection" cabernet sauvignon has twice won Wine Spectator's "Wine of the Year" - for its 1990 and 1984 vintages - and renown for its ripe yet balanced flavor profile. Lounge ON20 (20th and K streets, Sacramento) will be partnering with Caymus on Sept. 28 for a feast of modern cooking and finely crafted wines. Chef Pajo Bruich's four course menu will include a salad of heirloom beets paired with 2011 Caymus Unoaked Mer Soleil Chardonnay, and a New York strip loin steak with "deconstructed steak sauce" to match the vaunted 2009 Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon.

This fine dining experience is priced at $120 per person, and a few seats remain. The event starts at 6 p.m. with a canape recption, and dinner seating at 6:30 p.m. For reservations: (916) 443-6620 or info@loungeON20.com.

We're especially happy these days to report any news that doesn't involve a local restaurant shutting down. In this case, Miyagi Bar & Sushi (2580 Fair Oaks Blvd. #26) will be celebrating its expanded space on Saturday with live music from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. by the ParTime Band. This Japanese restaurant in the Lyon Village shopping center now has twice its previous capacity, allowing for 60 diners in booths and bar seats along with its 56-seat patio and restaurant space.

"In a time when many restaurants are closing their doors, we're thrilled to have the opportunity to continue to grow," said co-owner Jimmy Khov, in a statement. "We look forward to providing our neighborhood with the highest-quality seafood in our expanded space."

For more information: (916) 485-2299 or miyagisushi.com.

Let's set aside for a second all this Debbie Downer talk of Sacramento ranking second to last in a national dining survey, not to mention all the recent restaurant shut-downs, for something much more fun: Food trucks! A gang of food trucks and mobile vendors will be parked at the California State Capitol (10th St. between L and N streets) from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m. today. They're gathering for El Grito, an early commemoration of Mexican Independence Day. Because no matter if a food truck is peddling burgers or waffles, the roots of mobile food can be found in the humble taco truck. Here's the lineup of vendors:

1. MiniBurger
2. Wicked 'Wich
3. La Piedad
4. La Mex
5. Chando's
6. Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen
7. Corn Cake/BBQ
8. Mama Kims
9. VolksWaffle
10. Emma's Tamales
11. Pizza Company
12. Fat Face

In other food truck news, we're hearing that food truck ordinances may be coming up soon in front of the Sacramento City Council. Stay tuned for more information on that. Meanwhile, see you in line tonight for Chando's and more.

As restaurant closures around the Sacramento area continue to mount, there's a double-whammy of bad news about local dining. According to results of a national survey released today, Sacramentans ranked their city as the second worst dining scene in the country.

The survey was commissioned by LivingSocial, a Washington D.C.-based company that offers daily online deals for restaurants and other businesses. 4,000 diners in 20 media markets across the country participated in the online survey, with about 200 of them hailing from the Sacramento area. Participants were asked about their dining habits, favorite food choices and how they rank their city's overall food scene. Let's just say that Sacramento failed miserably, with only Detroit residents showing more dissatisfaction for their local dining.

On the flipside, this survey showed New York City as the country's favorite city for food, followed by Chicago and San Francisco.

We recently reported that the owners of the Golden Bear had taken over the space formerly occupied by Hangar 17 on 17th and S streets. Now, there's a name: Hook & Ladder Manufacturing Co., which is slated to open in February. The name harkens to a historic volunteer fire department in Sacramento, with a decor that mixes an industrial vibe with a comfy neighborhood bar and restaurant.

"It's about the sense of rising from the ashes, and a feeling of community," said co-owner Kimio Bazett. "Like the Golden Bear, it's also kind of a tribute to northern California."

Renovations are continuing on the space, and we're hearing that a couple of key names in the local restaurant scene will be heading the food and bar program. We'll keep you posted on that when confirmed.

September 12, 2011
Red Lotus shuts down

Red Lotus, the midtown restaurant which specialized in stylish dim sum-styled Chinese food, shut down as of Sunday night. This news was first broadcast on the Facebook page for Billy Ngo, Red Lotus' executive chef and co-owner, and confirmed by a member of Red Lotus' staff. Red Lotus lasted just under a year-and-a-half of business at 28th and J streets, taking over the a space formerly occupied by G.V. Hurley's before abruptly shutting down after Sunday's service.

Ngo continues to run Kru, a sushi and Asian small-plates themed restaurant just a few blocks from the former Red Lotus at 25th and J streets.

Red Lotus' shut down is the latest in a rash of midtown restaurant closures. Celestin's, the long-running Caribbean restaurant, will close at the end of September and be replaced with a new eatery run by the owners of Capitol Garage. Other recent restaurant closures in the midtown/downtown area include Brew It Up, Spin Burger Bar and L Wine & Urban Kitchen. California Pizza Kitchen's location at 15th and L street has also closed, though its other locations around the Sacramento area remain open.

Catherine Enfield, author of the Munchie Musings blog and a valued partner at The Bee's Sacramento Connect network, recently returned from a Hawaiian vacation. Enfield was also an organizer of the SactoMoFo food truck festival and also runs www.sacfoodtrucks.net, so surveying Hawaii's food truck scene was a priority along with chillaxing on the beach. Here are a few nuggets from the trip:

- Think Sacramento's 30 minute parking rule for food trucks is prohibitive? Hawaiian food trucks are bound to a 15 minute rule on public streets, so most park for hours on private property - with some paying upwards of $1,300 a month for that privilege.

- In Hawaii, they're not called food trucks, but "lunch wagons." They've been part of Hawaiian food culture for decades, but most trucks stay parked instead of moving from location to location.

- A lack of health inspectors means that food trucks in Oahu get inspected maybe once a year.

Enfield has plenty more dish about Hawaii's food trucks - er, lunch wagons - so surf over to Munchie Musings for the full scoop.

We've got to thank our Sacramento Connect partner Cowtown Eats for this great tip. Today's the last day you can claim a buy one, get one free deal at participating Peet's Coffee & Tea locations. That's right, you can beat that 3 p.m. energy crash and also treat a friend to a caffeinated fix at a bargain rate. Note: this offer doesn't apply to bottled beverages, juice and kids' drinks.

Are you ready for that pick-me-up? Download the coupon here.

Crank up Jimi Hendrix's verison of "The Star Spangled Banner" and get smoking - smoking hickory and mesquite wood, that is. "Ribstock" is coming to Cameron Park Lake (2989 Cambridge Rd., Cameron Park) on Sept. 17 for a barbecue cook-off and festival. This event is sanctioned by the Kansas City Barbeque Society, and will utilize only certified bbq judges for the competition.

And in between gnawing on some ribs and other munchables from vendors, you can call out, "Play some 'Free Bird!'" The Lynyrd Skynyrd tribute band dubbed Nuthin Fancy will perform some of southern rock's most classic tunes.

The festival runs from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. $5 admission, kids 6 and under are free. For more information: rib-stock.com

We know money's tight out there, so the chance to sample some of Sacramento's finest dining at a reduced price is always welcome. To commemorate its 4th anniversary, Ella Dining Room & Bar (12th and K streets, Sacramento) is offering a three-course menu for $30 throughout the month of September. Considering that most of Ella's entrees cost at least $25, this makes for a relatively good bargain. Here's what you'll get for $30:

Appetizer

Salad of Local Peaches and Nectarines
Mangalitsa Pork Lardo, Banyuls Vinaigrette, and Rustic Arugula
~or~
Ricotta Gnocchi
Parmesan Cream, Tomato Coulis, and Warmed Cherry Tomatoes

Entree

Pan Seared Passmore Ranch Trout
Bloomsdale Spinach, Prosciutto, Crispy Capers, and Mustard Sauce
~or~
Wood Oven Fired Lamb Sirloin
Caponata of Summer Vegetables, Tapenade Vinaigrette, and Basil Aioli

Dessert

Gratin of Orchard Fruits
Lemon Mousse and Vanilla Ice Cream
~or~
Mocha Almond Gateau
Crème Chantilly and Almond Cookie

For more information: www.elladiningroomandbar.com

Hear ye, hear ye: Governor Jerry Brown has proclaimed September as California Wine Month to help commemorate the state's multi-billion dollar wine industry. Look for a series of related wine events to be held throughout California, including Sonoma Wine Country Weekend during Labor Day and California Wine Rush on Sept. 17 at the Ferry Building in San Francisco. Besides all of this sipping and schmoozing over wine, California Wine Month also honors a business which attracts more than 20 million wine tourists annually.

"Our state's wineries create jobs for 330,000 Californians and revenue from retail sales of $18.4 billion, including $1.14 billion in exports sales to 122 countries." said Gov. Brown, in a statement.

2011 marks the seventh year that September's been proclaimed California Wine Month, during that seasonal time when the industry's in high gear with the grape harvest. According to the California Wine Institute, the Golden State is home to more than 3,400 bonded wineries and 4,600 grape growers, accounting for nearly 90 percent of the United States' wine production.

When they're not driving around town and looking for parking to feed hungry customers, the owners of local food trucks are busy lobbying for online votes. They're vying for $10,000 and a chance to appear on the Food Network's "The Great Food Truck Race" in an online competition for "America's favorite" food truck.

Right now, Sacramento's own Mini Burger is holding down the No. 4 spot, while Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen has garnered enough votes to land the No. 9 spot. Voting will continue through Sept. 12, and you can cast your votes here.

Speaking of food trucks, look for a special mobile food gathering on Sept. 15 at the State Capitol with 10 trucks from 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. This food truck fiesta is being held in honor of Mexican Independence Day, and while the line-up of vendors has yet to be announced, you can bet your last burrito that plenty of tacos will be in the mix. Stay tuned for more information.

It's that time of year when downtown and midtown fills with the sounds of ice shaking in cocktail shakers like boozy maracas. Midtown Cocktail Week kicks off today and runs through Sunday, with a variety of tastings and classes for the cocktail inclined. Today's shenanigans kick off at 2 p.m. with a "punch bowl bunco party" class at Restaurant Thir13en (13th & H streets, Sacramento) and continue from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. at Shady Lady (14th and R streets, Sacramento) in a salute to women bartenders.

Other highlights include a cocktail competition Tuesday at Red Lotus (28th and J streets, Sacramento), "A Night in Cuba" on Wednesday at Zocalo (18th and Capitol, Sacramento) and a luau-themed closing bash on Sunday at Golden Bear (24th and K streets, Sacramento). Also check out Wednesday's "Wine Buzz" column for a fun circus-themed party coming on Friday to the Citizen Hotel (10th and J streets, Sacramento).

The organizers of Midtown Cocktail Week also encourage everyone to party responsibly, so keep a designated driver or cab number handy. Midtown Cocktail Week has partnered with RADD - The Entertainment Industry's Voice For Road Safety to promote these efforts.

For a full line-up of events: www.midtowncocktailweek.org

In the spirit of culinary camaraderie and fund raising, some of Sacramento's best known chefs have come together for an occasional series of collaborative dinners. The first event was held in November at The Kitchen, featuring a veritable who's-who of local cooking talent: Billy Ngo (Kru/Red Lotus), Kelly McCown (Ella), Pajo Bruich (Lounge ON20), Patrick Mulvaney (Mulvaney's B&L) and many more.

Rick Mahan, chef and proprietor of The Waterboy and OneSpeed, is organizing the next collaborative dinner, which is set for 4 p.m. on Sept. 11 at Casa Garden (2760 Sutterville Rd., Sacramento). Dinner costs $125 per person (plus tax and gratuity), with proceeds going to the Sacramento Children's Home - which operates the Casa Garden Restaurant. Wine is included in the price.

Along with Mahan, the roster for this dinner includes Adam Schulze (Waterboy), Kurt Spataro (Paragary Restaurant Group), Noah Zonca (The Kitchen), Doug Silva (Silva's Sheldon Inn), and others. Look for the menu to be confirmed next week.

For reservations, call The Waterboy: (916) 498-9891. Space is limited to 80, and pre-payment for the event is required upon reservation.

The weekly festival of local food trucks will once again be heading to the suburbs, with a location set for tonight at Future Ford in the Roseville Auto Mall (650 Automall Dr., Roseville). Eats will be available from these four food vendors: Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, Mini Burger, Wicked 'Wich and Mama Kim. The event runs from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m.

In related news, there's a new web site to keep tabs on the whereabouts of local food trucks. Surf over to www.sacfoodtrucks.net, which tracks the latest locations for food trucks and their regular stops during the week. The site's the brainchild of Catherine Enfield, a former organizer for the food truck advocacy group SactoMoFo and author of the Munchie Musings blog.

You can also follow SacFoodTrucks on Twitter at @sacfoodtrucks.

Recent statistics from the United States Department of Agriculture show a boom in farmers markets, with California leading the country. California is now home to 729 farmers markets, an increase from 580 in 2010. Nationally, the 2011 Farmers Market Directory counts 7,175 farmers markets around the country, which is up 17 percent from the previous year.

The Sacramento area has been home to such long-running farmers markets as the Sunday market at 8th and X streets and Davis' farmers markets at Central Park (4th and C streets). Some new local farmers markets have also cropped up recently, including one that runs Saturdays through Oct. 15 at McClatchy Park in Oak Park.

"The remarkable growth in farmers markets is an excellent indicator of the staying power of local and regional foods," said Kathleen Merrigan, deputy secretary for the Department of Agriculture, in a statement.

In all this latest news of restaurants shutting down, here's a place that's bucking the trend and set to open soon. Kinnee O'Reilly's Irish Pub & Restaurant is scheduled to open in late-September at the Montano Shopping Center in El Dorado Hills (1000 White Rock Rd., El Dorado Hills). The food program will feature traditional Irish fare (i.e. mulligan stew, bangers and mash), plus American and European dishes that include sandwiches, fish and chips, lamb shanks and more. The bar will be stocked with beers from around the world and plenty of whiskeys.

"We're striving to create an authentic experience for those who walk through the doors at Kinnee O'Reilly's," said owner Dave Wohler, in a statement. "Our goal is to make everyone feel like they've stepped into a casual corner pub in Ireland."

For more information: www.kinneeoreillys.com

The tough times continue on the local restaurant scene. Pause Lounge & Kitchen in Roseville became the latest local eatery to shut down, closing for good over the weekend following just eight months in business. Pause, which specialized in artisanal cocktails and a menu that focused on small-plate items, closed temporarily in April to revamp its menu and change its decor. According to Lucas Elia, who co-owned Pause with brother Leyland Jacob, Pause never quite found its footing after closing the first time.

"We lost a lot of our crowd in that first round, and it would've taken too much time and money to bring them back," said Elia.

Pause Lounge & Kitchen joins a roll-call of recent restaurant closures that includes Brew It Up, Spin Burger, L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen and the midtown location of California Pizza Kitchen at 16th & L streets.

Elia said there's been initial talks from other restaurateurs in taking over Pause's space. In the meantime, Elia and his brother are interested in opening a cafe in the midtown/downtown area. The two were the former owners of Bloom Coffee & Tea in Roseville but sold their interest in the business, said Elia.

People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals a.k.a. PETA is joining the fun and p.r. hijinks of National Sandwich Month, which stretches through August, by creating its "top 5 vegan sandwiches" list. Sacramento's own Sugar Plum Vegan, located at 2315 K St., made this honor roll with its "garnet yam & avocado panini" sandwich, which comes with tomatoes, roasted onions and poppy seed aioli on ciabatta bread. The price tag: $9.79.

"It's one of our most popular items," said Erika Galt, a manager at Sugar Plum Vegan. "Everyone seems to order it."

The No. 1 sandwich prize went to "The Revenge" from Strange Matter in Richmond, Va. This 'wich comes with vegan ham, tempeh, and jackfruit between two dairy-free grilled cheese sandwiches. Think of it as the vegan version of KFC's "Double Down."

"We give Sugar Plum Vegan five green stars for helping to feed America's growing demand for delicious health-, animal-, and eco-friendly food," said PETA Executive Vice President Tracy Reiman in a statement.

For more information: www.peta.org

Just three months after undergoing a decor change and debuting its new chef, midtown's Lounge ON20 (20th and K streets, Sacramento) introduced a new menu on Tuesday with reduced prices. Gone are any dishes that cost more than $18. Lounge ON20's new menu has been retooled to emphasize small plates and its bar food offerings. The change comes with chef Pajo Bruich, who's known for embracing molecular gastronomy and modern culinary techniques, hoping to drive more dining traffic to Lounge ON20 and offer more items that won't be a blow to the wallet.

"I've been evaluating the trends of diners and seeing what's working and not working," said Bruich. "We've been tagged as this molecular gastronomy kind of place but I think what we're doing is classic, simple stuff, but some people were still scared. I really don't want people to be intimidated and show that we're affordable and trying to do amazing food."

Among the new offerings: a $3 Niman Ranch mini burger, carnitas tacos with Tapatio foam for $7, 12-hour slow cooked pork belly with peaches and cornbread French toast for $11 and handcut pastas for $14. Prices have also been cut on such items as lime cured hamachi (now $11) and fried mac 'n cheese ($6).

"We want people to come in and share and pair dishes," said Bruich, "With these price points, it's more conducive to making that happen."

Update: Dishes can also be upgraded to entree size portions for an additional fee. Chef Pajo is also open to creating tasting menus for customers, using dishes that are both on and off the menu. For a chef's tasting menu, plan on paying between $75 and $100.

For more information: www.loungeon20.com

Look for a new eatery and watering hole to open by February at the former Hangar 17 at 17th and S streets. The new business, which has yet to be named, will be run by the owners of the Golden Bear who recently signed a lease for the space. According to Golden Bear co-owner Kimio Bazett, the concept of the new space is still being worked out, but a major renovation is planned. Hangar 17 shut down in March after six years of business.

"It will be unrecognizable as Hangar 17," said Bazett. "It will also be more different than the Golden Bear. It'll be a little more grown-up but still have a comfortable, neighborhood feel."

In related news, mixologist Chris Tucker has joined the Golden Bear's staff and will make cocktails at this 24th and K spot on Fridays and Saturdays. Tucker, known as one of Sacramento's most respected mixologists, became a free agent after his former employer, L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen, shut down indefinitely in July. Bazett expects that Tucker will take on a greater role with the Golden Bear, including possibly run its bar program and work closely with the new venture on 17th and S.

August 2, 2011
Vegfest coming Aug. 13

Want to make sure you're getting a proper helping of veggies this month? Then stop by Vegfest on Aug. 13, which will be held from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. at the Artisan Building on 1901 Del Paso Blvd. You'll find a smorgasbord of culinary creations from the vegan, raw and vegetarian side of things. Don't think of this as a bunch or rabbit food. You'll find non-dairy popsicles from DavePops, edibles from Sugar Plum Vegan Cafe and even vegetarian dog food for Fido from V-dog. This meat-free extravaganza also features speakers, a children's area and much more. The cost is $2 and $1 with the donation of a non-perishable food item. 11 and under are free. For more information: www.sacvegfest.com.

The food trucks are coming this evening to the land of the Thundering Herd. That would by Elk Grove, and more specifically, Storage Kings at 8740 Calvine Rd. The event runs from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. and you can find grub from the following vendors: Mini Burger, Wicked 'Wich, Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen and Mama Kim.

While food truck operators continue to be stymied by only being able to park for 30 minutes in most parts of the city, locations in the county and suburbs have proven to be tasty locales for food trucks. Says Davin Vculek of Mini Burger: "Should be fun times. We always do pretty well in Elk Grove."


This just in: The weekly festival featuring local food trucks is coming to Elk Grove this Thursday.

The location is Storage Kings, which can be found at 8740 Calvine Road.

Count on Mini Burger being there, and we'll confirm the rest of the vendors and time ASAP. Previous editions of this gathering have run from 5 to 8 p.m. and, along with Mini Burger, have featured Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, Mama Kim, Chando's Tacos and more. Hang tight for more info.

Sunday's brunch was the last service at L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen for at least the next few weeks. The midtown wine bar at 18th and L streets is closing indefinitely due to extensive repairs and safety issues with its HVAC system, said co-owner Marcus Marquez. A lawsuit between the L's owners and its general contractor is complicating matters, though both parties are currently in mediation, said Marquez.

Marquez anticipates that the L will re-open by September, by which time repairs and legal matters should be settled. In the meantime, the opening bash for Midtown Cocktail Week on Aug. 15 which was scheduled for the L is being moved, likely to Shady Lady. The L will continue to cater events, while its 28 employees look for work during the closure.

"The process is moving forward and I feel like we can re-open quickly," said Marquez. "I look forward to getting back in the community."

Take a break from the corn dogs and deep-fried Twinkies and get some fish into your California State Fair food experience this Saturday for Aquaculture Day. Culinary students from Cosumnes Oaks High School and local chefs are going to prepare sustainable seafood from California, including tilapia, trout, abalone and sturgeon. They'll share the bounty with fairgoers as well, with demos at 1, 2, 4 and 5 p.m.

Aquaculture Day also includes a petting zoo of sorts, but of the fish kind. Student farmers from Watsonville High School will show off 2 to 3 foot long sturgeon and visitors will be allowed to pet them.

For more information: (916) 263-3000

Bastille Day is upon us, which means the "Daniel Pont Golden Beret" award is up for grabs. That's the trophy for tonight's Bastille Day Waiters Race, which kicks off at 7 p.m. tonight at L Bar (1801 L St., Sacramento). Local restaurant servers will wear traditional waiters garb and then race while trying to balance a tray with a bottle and glasses. Expect plenty of spills and thrills, plus an afterparty in the L's courtyard.

Race organizers are still looking for competitors, so if you want to be part of this charging herd of servers, send an e-mail to waitersrace@sactownmag.com and they'll send you the entry form. Registration costs $20 and forms need to be dropped off by 3 p.m. at Sactown magazine's office (1006 4th St., 9th floor; Sacramento). Limited registration may also be available on site tonight if the race hasn't reached its 50 waiter limit.

Good luck, and watch out for broken stemware!

OK, we understand that some of you may still be seething following yesterday's "free Slurpee day" at 7-11. For one, those free Slurpees were given out in tiny cups and many franchises ran out before many folks could get their fix. Talk about a brain freeze of a bummer.

But now, we'd like to bring your attention to a deal that shows some promise. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of Wienerschnitzel, participating locations will be offering 61 cent original hot dogs on Sunday. This includes mustard dogs, chili dogs and kraut dogs. They'll also be offering a drawing to win a trip for two to Germany and other 'dog related giveaways. Score!

For more information: www.wienerschnitzel.com

If you've got a hankering for some edibles from local food trucks, check out the mobile food festival every Thursday which rotates at spots around Sacramento county. This week's edition will be held from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. at Mel Rapton Honda on Fulton Ave. near the Capital City Freeway. Look for eats from the following local vendors: Mini Burger, Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, Mama Kim, Chando's Tacos and the Leaven & Earth Sandwich Co.

And where will the festival be held next week? Guess we'll just have to wait and find out. In the meantime, look for the web site to be up soon for the Sacramento Food Truck Alliance, which is organizing these weekly festivals.

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On your mark, get set ... now speedwalk while balancing a tray with a bottle of wine and glasses. That's right, the Bastille Day Waiters Race will go down for the second straight year, this time on July 14. The course will start and end at L Bar (formerly known as L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen) at 1801 L St., with a party in the L's courtyard to follow the race. More than 50 local waiters participated last year, with Joe Cowley of Michaelangelo's Italian Restaurant emerging as the champion.

There were also some grumblings last year about some folks not playing fair, as in gluing their glassware to their trays and not balancing their trays with one hand. So there will be a few new rules this year, including no sprinting. More information will be coming soon on this fun event with plenty of broken glassware.

Note: Corrected to clarify the course route

No, we're not talking about dumpster diving or being a "freegan" and consuming others' leftover food, but a different kind of scavenger hunt is going on through July 11 at various midtown restaurants. Here's the deal: surf over to www.ilovedowntownsac.com and look for a link to download the "SCVNGR" app for your smart phone. You'll then be sent to an array of restaurants - including de Vere's Irish Pub, the Firehouse, 3 Fires Lounge and more - and can earn points by completing tasks. The Top 7 point getters will then receive $50 gift cards at local businesses. Score! Once again, click over to www.ilovedowntownsac.com and get scavenging.

June 29, 2011
More hot dog recipes

Once again, we had more recipes than space in this week's Food & Wine section, so wanted to share some additional recipes that didn't fit. These are for today's story on how to elevate your hot dog:

Roast red pepper relish (peperonata)
Yields approximately 2 cups
This recipe was created by chef Adam Pechal of Tuli Bistro and Restaurant THIR13EN

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup olive oil
2 cups roasted red bell peppers, julienned
4 cloves garlic, slivered
1 teaspoon chili flake, (or more or less depending on your spice level)
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablepsoons parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS
Add olive oil and garlic to a small saucepan and heat over medium high. Watch closely as the garlic will quickly begin to toast and can burn quickly.
When the garlic is golden brown, add the rest of the ingredients and simmer on low for 20 minutes.
Can be served hot or cold.

***

Bratwurst "Hot Tub"
From "Planet Barbecue" by Steven Raichlen (Workman, 2010)
Serves 4 to 6
Note: The brats can be grilled up to two hours ahead. That's the point.


INGREDIENTS

12 Wisconsin bratwurst
1 large sweet onion, peeled and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
4 tablespoons salted butter
Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
2 bottles of beer (3 cups), preferably Wisconsin beer

For serving:

12 crusty rolls, like semmel rolls or kaiser rolls
Hot or sweet German-style mustard
3 cups sauerkraut

You'll also need: 1-1/2 cups hickory, oak or other wood chips, soaked in water or beer to cover for 1 hour, then drained (optional), bamboo skewers (preferably flat), a large aluminum foil pan (like a turkey roaster)

Smoke-roasting (indirect grilling) method:

Note: This is not traditional, but to me there is no better way to cook bratwurst or any sausage. Indirect grilling crisps the casing, keeps the brat moist, and eliminates the risk of burning and flare-ups, while the wood smoke adds a haunting dimension of flavor.

Set up your grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium (350 degrees F). Brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the brats on the grate over the drip pay away from the heat.Toss the wood chips on the coals. Indirect grill the brats until crusty and golden brown on the outside and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes. Use an instant read meat thermometer to check for doneness--insert it in one end to the center of the brat--it should read 165 degrees.There is no need to turn the brats--remember, you're indirect grilling.

Direct grilling method:

Note: This is the traditional way a Wisconsonite cooks bratwurst. The secret is to work over a moderate heat, leave yourself a large safety zone in case you get flare-ups, and take pains not to pierce the casing, thereby releasing the tasty and flavorful juices. To do this, always use tongs and never a barbecue fork for turning the brats.

Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to medium. Brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the brats on the grate over the fire, leaving 1 inch between each. Direct grill the brats until crusty and golden on the outside and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes per side. Again, use an instant read meat thermometer inserted through one end to test for doneness.

As the brats cook, skewer the onion slices on bamboo skewers. Melt the butter in the large foil pan. Lightly brush the onion slices with melted butter (you'll need about 1 tablespoon) and season with salt and pepper. Direct grill the onions until golden brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. (If working on a grill set up for indirect grilling, place the onions directly over one of the mounds of coals.) Add the onions to foil pan with the butter, removing and discarding the skewers.

Add the beer to foil and boil it for 3 minutes. Move it to a cooler part of the grill so it stops boiling. As the bratwurst are done, add them to the pan with the beer. Position the pan at the rear or side of your grill so that the beer and brats stay warm, but don't quite boil. Boiling will overcook them. Thus nestled in their hot tub, the brats will stay warm and moist for up to an hour or two--enough time for you to cook them ahead of time, imbue them with the flavor of smoke and fire, and enjoy them during the game.

To serve the brats, slather the roll with mustard. You can butter and grill it if you like--most Wisconsinites wouldn't bother. Add a brat, some grilled onion, and sauerkraut if desired. Take a bite and get ready for some of the best sausage on Planet Barbecue.

Local food trucks will gather once again on Thursday from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. at Tognotti's Auto World (2509 Fulton Ave., near El Camino, Sacramento). It's the second in a line of weekly festivals featuring local mobile food vendors, all of which are part of the newly formed Sacramento Food Truck Alliance. Look for eats from Mini Burger, Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, Mama Kim, Chando's Tacos and the Leaven & Earth Sandwich Co.

Organizers of last week's festival estimated an attendance of about 1,000 folks. Lines were much shorter than April's SactoMoFo festival, where some 10,000 descended on midtown's Fremont Park and some waits reached up to four hours.

"This one went smoothly and was much more laid back," said Catherine Enfield, an organizer of SactoMoFo and food truck advocate. "The longest line was about a 30 minute wait for Mini Burger."

Next week's festival will be held at a new location, most likely in the suburbs of Sacramento county where food trucks won't be held to the city's 30 minute rule of parking for mobile food vendors. We'll share that location when it's confirmed.

Good news for folks who want to try some of the highly touted Mangalitsa pork that I wrote about a few weeks ago. Corti Brothers just received an entire Mangalitsa pig, a rare breed that's prized as much for its fat as its rich meat. After my story ran, Corti Brothers - the only retail shop in town to carry Mangalitsa - sold out of its Mangalitsa pork in one day. Customers have since been placing pre-orders for a piece of this pig, with 16 requests alone for its pork belly.

Mike Carroll, the manager of Corti Bros.' meat department, has spent the morning breaking down this 320 pound pig. Loin chops are priced at $18.99 per pound, $10.99 per pound for shoulder, $7.99 for a pound of pork belly and $10.99 for shoulder. Sure, these prices are pretty steep for pig parts, but there's a reason why Mangalitsa is dubbed "the Wagyu beef of pork", and served at fine restaurants ranging from The Kitchen to the famed French Laundry. The bonus of Mangalitsa is you can use its rendered fat for all kinds of cooking purposes, from mixing into hamburger patties and creating pie crusts.

"The fat on this pig came in so beautiful and creamy," said Carroll. "It's just gorgeous."

For more information about placing an order: (916) 736-3805.

Just got word that Thursday's festival of local food trucks has been moved to Tognotti's Auto World at El Camino & Fulton Ave. The time remains the same - 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. - and four local food trucks are still on board: Mini Burger, Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, Mama Kim's and Chando's.

This weekly food truck festival will move to various locations each Thursday, and we'll let you know about the next one when we do. In the meantime, customers will get 10 percent off their orders if they wear a SactoMoFo t-shirt to the festival. They can be ordered through SactoMoFo's web site with prices starting at $20.99 for adult-sized shirts.

Local food trucks will come together each Thursday starting June 23 to serve fans of mobile food and promote a new alliance of food trucks. The locations will rotate each Thursday, but the first event is slated on June 23 from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. at MK Auto on the corner of Arden Way and Bell St.

Three local food trucks will be featured at this first gathering: Mini Burger, Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen and Mama Kim's. Trucks from Chando's and a new vendor called The Wicked 'Wich are expected to participate soon. Other members of the alliance include the La Piedad and La Mex taco trucks.

All trucks at this as-yet-untitled festival are members of the newly formed Sacramento Food Truck Alliance. The organization will emphasize a self-policing policy, including not parking within a half-block of an existing restaurant.

"It's an organization to strengthen ourselves and make sure we're doing the right thing," said Davin Vculek of Mini Burger. "We don't want to fight restaurants. We want to show how we can co-exist with them."

Vculek said the ultimate goal is to bring the weekly festival closer to the central city "and bring more life into downtown." Currently, food trucks have to move after 30 minutes and must shut down at sundown. Until those regulations are changed, the weekly festival will operate outside city limits.

Look for web sites for the festival and Sacramento Food Truck Alliance to be online soon.

Though details are still in the works, local food truck vendors are banding together to hold a local mobile food festival on Thursday nights. Look for a location just outside the city limits, in the vicinity of Arden Way, and will feature only local trucks, including Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen and Mini Burger. By operating outside city limits, the food trucks won't be limited to 30 minutes in one spot, per current city ordinances.

This food festival is being organized by local food truck vendors themselves, who are currently in the process of forming an alliance. An introductory meeting between food truck operators, restaurateurs and city officials was held recently at The Kitchen, and proposals from all sides are expected at an upcoming meeting between all parties in the next four to six weeks.

Stay tuned for more of this mobile food truck news as it develops.

Update: We're also hearing word of a new food truck coming very soon that specializes in sandwiches ... more on that soon as well.

After judging more than 2,600 wines, the full list of winners has been announced for the 2011 California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. Best of show winners included Shady Lady primitivo from Amador County (red), Greenwood Ridge Vineyards of Mendocino Ridge for its white riesling (white), and Anderson Valley's Navarro Vineyards for its muscat blanc (sweet).

Click here for a searchable database of all winners.

In previous years, the gold medal winners from the State Fair's commercial wine competition were sampled with food from local restaurants at the Grape & Gourmet event. Grape & Gourmet has been put on hold this year, and the winning wines can instead be sampled on July 29 at the California State Fair. The tasting is now called Taste & Celebrate the Best Wine! and will require a $25 ticket separate from fair admission.

For more information: (916) 263-3247 or www.bigfun.org

What's up with the sound of booming taiko drums coming from The Fountains in Roseville? That'll be the 1st Annual Mikuni Japanese Street Festival, which is slated from 5 p.m. - 8 p.m. at The Fountains shopping center in Roseville. Along with Japanese taiko drumming and crafts for the kids, the festival is a welcoming of sorts for Mikuni Kaizen, the latest edition to the Mikuni Restaurant Group which emphasizes small plates and tapas-style dining. The kitchen will be taking orders at Mikuni Kaizen until 9:30 p.m. on Thursday. For more information: www.mikunisushi.com.

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That's right, it's Mangalitsa week here on "Appetizers." To get some more information on the Mangalitsa pig, a prized swine with chefs ranging from The Kitchen to the French Laundry, check out my Food & Wine cover story on the Mangalitsa pig.

For you budding pastry chefs and gourmet home cooks out there, here's a recipe from Randall Selland of The Kitchen which includes bacon ice cream. I know, the idea of bacon in ice cream might sound just kind of wrong at first glance. But trust me, little bits of prized Mangalitsa bacon turns regular ol' vanilla ice cream into a mix of savory, sweet and salty flavors that will make your taste buds do backflips.

Here's the recipe:

pasta carb2.JPG

Today's Food & Wine section had an extra dose of flavorful fat, given the cover story on the Mangalitsa pig. From the French Laundry to some of Sacramento's finest kitchens and gourmet grocers, this pig is coveted for its exceptional fat and rich meat - though it can come with a hefty price tag, too.

But really, give some Mangalitsa a try for yourself. For you folks who want to dedicate some time in the kitchen, here's a recipe from chef Kelly McCown of Ella Dining Room & Bar that shows off the Mangalitsa in bacon form. Save some of the bacon fat for some refried beans or green beans. Mmmmm ...

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Today's "Wine Buzz" column checked out a fairly unusual spot for one of Sacramento's best new wine bar lists. You'll find that at Bows & Arrows on 1815 19th St., a vintage clothing store that doubles as an art gallery and cafe. It recently moved from L street to its current location, the former site of Retrofit recording studios.

Here's a little more about Bows & Arrows' similarly thoughtful food program, which is being run by Fat Face. Formerly based in Davis, Fat Face built a rep for producing some of the area's best popsicles - think kaffir limeade with avocado and strawberry-lemonade - along with a tasty line of sandwiches. Fat Face sold popsicles at the recent Sacramento Mobile Food Festival and went through more than 1,000 of these frozen treats.

So what the heck is Fat Face doing at a spot that specializes in vintage clothes?

Ever heard that Chris Rock comedy routine about how dads never get any kind of appreciation, except the "big piece of chicken" at dinner? Well for one day, they'll get a free burger too. On June 19th a.k.a. Father's Day, dads will get a free 1/3 burger at The Counter (1005 Galleria Blvd., Roseville). All you have to do is tell your server, "I want the BFD!" And before the language police come calling, the "BFD" in this case means "Burger For Dad." Got it? Keep in mind that additional and premium toppings are extra. Until then, enjoy the big piece of chicken.

Mother Nature sure has pulled a whammy lately with all this weird weather, but no matter what, Saturday's Grape Escape at Cesar Chavez Plaza (10th and J streets, Sacramento) will proceed rain or shine. Organizers are scrambling today to add extra tents to cover the bulk of the park, which will feature more than 200 wines and food from nearly two dozen local eateries, including Pizza Rock, Piatti, Mulvaney's B&L and Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen. Last year's edition of Grape Escape drew more than 5,000 folks for three hours of wine drinking and face stuffing.

I'll have my rain poncho on stand-by because I'm one of the judges for Grape Escape's "chef's challenge," a culinary throwdown featuring defending champion Adam Pechal of Tuli Bistro/THIR13EN, David English (Press Bistro), Suleka Sun-Lindley (Thai Basil), and Russell Okubo of Fat's Family Restaurants. Each contestant will have 25 minutes to whip up a dish using a secret ingredient, and hopefully wow the judges enough to advance to the finals.

Meanwhile, the libations for Grape Escape read like a who's-who of regional wineries, including Bogle, Carvalho Family Winery, Jodar, Scribner Bend, Klinker Brick and more. Grape Escape runs from 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. Tickets for this feast cost $40 in advance, with $5 off if purchased at Raley's stores and $50 at the door.

For more information: www.raleysgrapeescape.com. 21 and up only.

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CREDIT: Gene Simmons of KISS salivating at the mouth. Lezlie Sterling, Sacramento Bee

If you've been watching morning TV this week, you probably saw the "Good Day Sacramento" crew sporting KISS make-up. It's all in preparation of Sunday's Walk N' Rock for Kids, a charity event that includes a 5k walk and then capped with a Raley Field concert featuring the "hottest band in the world" ... KISS \m/

Sacramento chefs are also coming together to support the cause. A VIP dinner includes courses from the likes of Matt Woolston (Supper Club), Scott MacNamera (fresh from Bistro Michel's recent glowing review in the Bee), Simone McKinley of Revolution Wines, Lounge ON20 executive chef Pajo Bruich and others. No word if the chef's will be wearing KISS makeup for the cause.

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CREDIT: David Wilson aka "Barbecue Bobby" turns over a rack of pork ribs at the late-great Cafe au Creme on Stockton Blvd. Bryan Patrick, Sacramento Bee.

Don't know about you, but I am a sucker for some properly smoked barbecue. I've spent many an afternoon in the backyard tending to my barrel smoker and trying to create some killer ribs: slow cooked at 225 degrees until the meat's just about to fall off the bone but still has some chew, plus finding that perfect blend of rub and sauce to take the flavor into the stratosphere.

I hadn't been so hungry in a while from writing a story, especially after getting off the phone with Jamie Purviance, the James Beard nominated author and barbecue master who lives in El Dorado Hills. Here's today's piece with plenty of tips for elevating your ribs.

But you know how it goes with newspapers. A lot of times we have too many tips and not enough space in the paper, so here are a couple more suggestions when you're ready to slow-cook that next slab of ribs:

Chef Adam Pechal of Tuli Bistro will launch his second restaurant, THIR13EN, on Friday with a five-course menu based on 13 local ingredients. With business partner Ulli Petersen, THIR13EN will be housed at the Sterling Hotel (13th and H streets, Sacramento) and focus on prix fixe menus with touches of molecular gastronomy techniques. Friday and Saturday's menu will feature edibles from River Dog Farms, Soil Born Farms, Passmore Ranch and other local sources. The cost is $75 a head and dinner is served at 7 p.m. Reservations only: (916) 594-7669.

Meanwhile, out in Folsom the expansion of Back Wine Bar (25075 Blue Ravine Rd., Ste. 150, Folsom) has been completed. The newly dubbed Back Wine Bar and Bistro includes an expanded food program with entrees and dinner specials, along with extra seating and a private dining room. The bistro will be open from 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. on Tuesdays through Sundays; the wine bar will run Tuesdays through Saturdays from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. For more information: (916) 986-9100 or www.backwinebar.com.

A 2,000-capacity venue will debut in June at the Old Sugar Mill, a Clarksburg facility that hosts seven tasting rooms for regional wineries. The concert venue will host a four-show series, that kicks off June 19 with a show featuring country music star Randy Travis. Other shows include a bluesy bill with Susan Tedeschi and Derek Trucks, a concert with '70s rockers Cheap Trick on Sept. 16, and one more show to be announced for August.

The owners of the Old Sugar Mill are partnering with Richter Entertainment Group, which operates the Ironstone Amphitheatre at Ironstone Vineyards in Calaveras county, to bring this concert venue to the Sacramento Delta. The Old Sugar Mill will hold its concerts on a lawn area and include a food court and beverage pavilion. All concerts at the Old Sugar Mill will end by 11 p.m. and a traffic plan has been worked out with Yolo County, said Mary Tye, marketing manager for the Old Sugar Mill.

"We came up with a plan that will bring maximum enjoyment and as little impact as possible," said Tye. "We're the closest wine destination to Sacramento, literally 20 minutes from downtown. We have seven wineries now and over 100 wines, and music and wine go hand in hand. We want people to come to Clarksburg and have a good time."

The staff turnover continues at Enotria Restaurant and Wine Bar, which re-opened in February following a $1.5 million remodel. Executive chef Anthony Brenes recently departed from Enotria, and sous chef John Komotos has been promoted to executive chef. This personnel change follows former wine director Chad Seaburg leaving for a gig in the medical industry, and being replaced by 26-year-old sommelier Jeremiah Morehouse. Komotos says Brenes left to help raise a new family and take work outside the restaurant industry.

Komotos, 30, is a native of St. Louis and moved to Sacramento in November. He was previously working at a raw foods restaurant in Los Angeles and playing music on the side. He's also had stints in Vail, Colo., and got his start at Cardwell's in Clayton in St. Louis.

As Enotria's executive chef, Komotos is collaborating more closely with Morehouse the sommelier for more thoughtful food and wine pairings. While Brenes created a flavorful menu with Latin American accents, many dishes were simply too busy and spiced up to work well with Enotria's wide-ranging wine program. (Here's a link to Blair Anthony Robertson's review of Enotria).

The Bee reported last month that two east Sacramento eateries, Gonul's J St. Cafe and Formoli's Bistro, would be swapping locations. That time is now about to come, with Gonul's changing its name to Vanilla Bean Bistro and opening June 6 at 3260 J St. Note that Gonul's will close its current location at 3839 J St. on May 29 to make way for the move.

Blum says that she's changing the name of her restaurant since so many people have a hard time pronouncing her first name. Her new space will be about 1,200 square-feet smaller than the former location, and plans to run some cooking classes once Vanilla Bean Bistro is up and running.

"We're going to do almost the same menu," said Blum. "We'll use mostly organic ingredients and grow things in the summertime in our garden. So, we'll harvest in the morning and bring it in the same day."

For more information: 916-457-1155; www.vanillabeanbistro.com.

A petition signed by more than 3,700 fans of food trucks was presented at Thursday night's City Council meeting. The petition was circulated at April 30's Sacramento Mobile Food Festival, which drew nearly 10,000 to midtown's Fremont Park.

The petition asks for City Council to reconsider current ordinances which prevent food trucks from parking for more than 30 minutes in most parts of Sacramento, among other restrictions. The petition was presented by festival organizer Paul Somerhausen.

Local mobile food vendors met privately this week to discuss city ordinances, while a group of prominent Sacramento restaurateurs will hold a meeting next week regarding mobile food vending. A roundtable discussion is planned for June between city officials, mobile food vendors and restaurateurs.

Councilmember Rob Fong instructed city staff to study current food truck ordinances at the City Council meeting May 3. Somerhausen expects City Council to vote on food truck ordinances within the next two to four months.

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Sad news for Sacramentans who love some hometown suds. Odonata Beer Co., co-founded by former Sacramento Brewing Company brewmaster Peter Hoey, recently suspended operations. The brewery was founded in 2009 and quicky gained a reuptation of producing some of the Sacramento area's finest beers, including a popular and tangy Saison made in the style of Belgian "farmhouse" ales and a quadruple Belgian-styled beer called Rorie's Ale. Hoey used equipment at Sudwerk Brewery to produce the bulk of his beers.

"We were trying to bring a premium product to market at an affordable price but the margins weren't there to support that business model," said Hoey. "It got to the point where we needed to brew another batch to supply the market and I had to make call (to cease operations)."

Hoey says there's still a two-month supply of Odonata in stores. In the meantime, Hoey's working as a consultant for a number of northern California breweries, including Sutter Buttes Brewing in Yuba City. He's also working with some start-up Sacramento breweries and predicts five of them will open within a year.

"I love helping other breweries but ultimately I want to have my own brand again," said Hoey. "We'll get there."

A lease is expected to be signed mid-week which would bring a Selland's Market Cafe to Town Center in El Dorado Hills. Run by the family which operates The Kitchen, Ella Dining Room and Bar and a Selland's Market Cafe in east Sacramento, the new El Dorado Hills location will be 4,200 square feet and include a large patio. Look for it to open near Thanksgiving.

Selland's Market Cafe specializes in housemade comfort foods, ranging from meatloaf and chicken, to marinated prawns and pizza, plus an in-house bakery. The cafe also runs a wine retail shop along with offering wines by the glass. The menu at the upcoming El Dorado Hills location is expected to stay the same, but may offer an expanded wines by the glass program.

"We think El Dorado Hills is a good fit for us," said Josh Nelson of The Selland Group. "El Dorado Hills is an underserved market and Town Center brings everyone into one spot. We won't be rolling out a new menu. What we do seems to work really well."

The Selland family will start hiring new employees for the cafe in October. For more information: www.sellands.com.

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CREDIT: Marisol Ortuno cuts up avacado for a taco plate during lunch at Lalo's mexican food restaurant on 24th Street between Sutterville Road and Fruitridge Avenue. Randy Pench, Sacramento Bee

The Battle of Puebla was a noble fight, with the Mexican army defeating the French in 1862. And what better way to celebrate this Cinco de Mayo victory than entering into a spicy food coma? Either way, Sacramento's traditionally had a bustling Mexican food scene with plenty of options, from the long-running family style restaurants to tiny taquerias serving tasty food at low prices.

Before I run down some of my recommended Cinco de Mayo eats, please leave a comment about your favorite Mexican restaurants at eateries around the area.

For this fan of Mexican food, south Sac is where it's at.

Following Saturday's massive turnout for the Sacramento Mobile Food Festival, the issue of food trucks will be addressed briefly at tonight's city council meeting. Councilman Rob Fong is expected to direct city staff to re-examine current ordinances related to mobile food vendors.

Currently, Sacramento food trucks cannot stay parked for more than 30 minutes in most parts of the city and must shut down at dusk, among other regulations. Along with showing off a variety of edibles from northern California food trucks, the aim of SactoMoFo was to raise awareness about current ordinances, and persuade city leaders to amend them and make Sacramento more food-truck friendly, like you might find in Portland, San Francisco and Los Angeles.

SactoMoFo organizers will make a public comment at the city council meeting on May 10, and produce a petition signed by 3,500 people asking for the city to amend its regulations related to food trucks.

SactoMoFo organizers are meanwhile planning a roundtable discussion between local restaurateurs, food truck vendors, city officials and other interested parties. Randall Selland, the restaurateur behind The Kitchen and Ella Dining Room & Bar, has offered to host the discussion.

Good news for fans who love slurping on some soup at Shoki Ramen House. Shoki's second location opened over the weekend at 1201 R St. and kicked off with a benefit for Japanese tsunami and earthquake victims. The original Shoki Ramen House at 24th St. near Broadway earned a reputation as arguably the Sacramento area's best noodle house, with its savory broths made from scratch and near reverence for its cooking methods (just check the walls for Shoki's credos about its broths, and don't even *think* about asking for an order to go. A sign on the front door states clearly, "No hot ramen to go.")

The new location seats nearly 50 customers and is open seven days a week. The hours are as follows:

Monday through Friday: 11: a.m. - 2 p.m. lunch; 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m. dinner
Saturday: 12 p.m. - 3 p.m. lunch; 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. dinner
Sunday: 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.

For more information: (916) 441-0011

Just read an e-mail from a reader who said they waited in line for nearly four hours to place a Mini Burger order at Saturday's Sacramento Mobile Food Festival. The e-mail ended with a prayer about the virtues of patience, something all attendees needed at SactoMoFo on Saturday.

All 21 food vendors at Fremont Park were slammed with epic lines, and not an hour into the event, many people were simply turning away and opting to eat somewhere else nearby. Between all my reporting out there and checking out the scene at neighboring businesses, all I had time to sample at SactoMoFo were some eats from the Chairman Bao truck -- and thanks once again to Suzanne Phan of News 10 for helping me place my order.

BTW, the baos were fantastic and filling, stuffed with pork belly and pickled daikon that cost about $3.50 each.

Pause Lounge & Kitchen in Roseville is literally taking a pause in its business operations. The restaurant, which started bringing small plate food and artisnal cocktails to Roseville in December, closed on Tuesday and will re-open on May 4. Owners Lucas and Leyland Jacob Elia are using this time to revamp its menu, with consultation from Hawks chef/owner Michael Fagnoni, and tweak its decor. Some key Pause staff have also left, including Chris Dooley, the mixologist who left Ella Dining Room and Bar to create Pause's cocktail program.

Though Pause menu's new menu is still under construction, plan on food offerings with an emphasis on approachability and using local ingredients when possible.

"Pause came off at first a little too fine dining and stuffy," said Lucas Elia. "We just decided to make a hard left and felt we needed to make the changes that we needed to make. We want to warm it up and revamp happy hour to make it more approachable for Roseville. It'll be an entirely different menu with simple, classic American stuff and good ingredients."

Pause is located at 1465 Eureka Rd. #100, Roseville. For more information: (916) 772-1525


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I had a chance to drop by the soft opening of Lounge ON20 this past weekend, eager to see what chef Pajo Bruich was brewing up in the kitchen. I'd profiled Bruich back in early March, highlighting his flair for molecular gastronomy and other cutting-edge cooking techniques that aren't found so much around the area. Molecular gastronomy, in which the food textures and flavor profiles are re-interpreted with a bit of science, was also a big talking point at the Bee's "Table Talk" food forum earlier this month.

So what kind of food science would Bruich drop on Lounge ON20, which recently brought him on board as its new chef? Lounge ON20 has re-tooled its focus with a greater emphasis on dining, both from its bar menu and new sit-down dinner options. The room already has a much warmer feel, less Miami-esque than before, with its "floating" fireplace in the lounge and handsome tables.

Blair Anthony Robertson, the Bee's restaurant critic, will have a full run-down of Lounge ON20 and Bruich's food after they get a chance to settle in. (Grand opening festivities are scheduled for this weekend). But after an early taste of the menu, we can say Bruich and his crew are off to a solid start.

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To much good natured harassment from my pals, yesterday's assignment was to head to Napa for Taste of Oakville. It's one of the most exclusive tastings in the domestic wine world, offering a rare chance - well, at least for most of us - to taste such premiere Oakville appellation wines as Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Dalla Valle and others. (To put in perspective, the half-ounce pour of Screaming Eagle alone would cost roughly $75 at a wine bar. Ouch!). So are these trophy wines deserving of the hype and often exorbitant price tags? That's the mission of checking out Taste of Oakville, along with meeting some of the folks behind these wineries and touching base with some key players in the domestic wine trade.

This year's Taste of Oakville had some Sacramento flavor, with local winemaker Stuart Spoto showing off his Spoto Wines - at the table right next to Screaming Eagle. So how did Spoto Wines fare at this elite of wine tastings? We'll have more on that in an upcoming issue of the Bee's Food & Wine Section.

It's the time of year when folks start feeling green in Stockton. We're talking about the annual Stockton Asparagus Festival, which draws thousands for a weekend of eating and partying surrounding this signature Central Valley crop. Along with plenty of deep-fried foods and novelty asparagus items (think: asparagus burritos), the festival will feature plenty of entertainment including the pop-rock of Smash Mouth and country tunes from Little Texas. Yee haw! So get on down to Weber Point in downtown Stockton, for the festivities run through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily. $12 general admission, $7 for college students, teens and seniors 60 and older. Children 12 and under are free. For more information: www.asparagusfest.com.

For the second time in two years, UC Davis has landed on the pages of Playboy magazine. In the magazine's current "Top 10 Party Schools - 2011" issue, UC Davis was awarded "thirstiest major" for its viticulture and enology program. Guess the Playboy bunny can't get enough of Aggie Town. Back in October, Playboy magazine listed Charlie Bamforth, UC Davis' Anheuser-Busch Endowed Professor of Malting and Brewing Sciences, in its rundown of the country's top 20 professors and dubbed him "brewmaster general."

But the science of studying wine is serious stuff at UC Davis, with its new $15 million research winery that's adjacent to 12-acres of student vineyards. That's to say, if you're looking to get credit for getting sloshed, don't plan on studying wine at UC Davis.

"Ironically, the 'thirstiest major' is a very apt description of our winemaking program because none of the wines made here for teaching or research purposes can be consumed, sold or even given away," said Andrew Waterhouse, chair of the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology, in a statement. "Underage students aren't allowed to taste the wines, and when tasting, our students are expected to spit afterwards. So our students truly do leave the classroom and tasting lab very thirsty."


Plenty of local restaurants have stepped up since Japan's recent mega-earthquake, and here's an ucoming one that offers one of Japan's premium spirits. On April 28, Ella Dining Room & Bar will host a cocktail tasting with proceeds to benefit Second Harvest Japan's disater relief efforts. The featured spirit is Yamazaki, the oldest whisky distiller in Japan and known for its impecabbly smooth and balanced whiskys. I recently tasted Yamazaki 12 and 18 year aged whisky and was struck by their complexity and depth of flavors. Not much else is needed to enjoy Yamazaki except maybe a small amount of ice, but in the proper hands a good mixologist can craft some interesting cocktails from these premium whiskys. For this benefit, Ella bar manager Rene Dominguez will create Yamazaki based cocktails, and a 300 pound block of ice will be broken down for use in the tasting as well. The event runs from 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. and costs $45 (includes 6 tickets for sampling the whiskys and cocktails. Reservations are required. For more information: (916) 443.3772; www.elladiningroomandbar.com.

Today's "Table Talk" food forum is all sold out, but you can follow all the tasty discussion on Twitter by The Bee and @sacramentopress. Just use the hashtag #SacTableTalk. (You're not on Twitter? Follow the discussion here on Appetizers.)

The Bee's Chris Macias and Niesha Lofing will tweet during this discussion of the region's food scene with local writers, chefs and food suppliers. The event runs from 6 to 8 p.m. We hope you'll tune into cyberspace around then.

This collaboration between The Sacramento Bee and the Sacramento Press is our first joint foray into the realm of food. We're looking forward to an evening of open and candid discussion about the region's food scene, from the writers who cover it to the emerging culinary trends, not to mention some snacks courtesy of Source Global Tapas.

Note: Owner Ali Mackani clarified that LoungeON 20's name will stay, but the remodel has been dubbed "Lounge 2.0." This has been corrected.

Midtown's Lounge ON20 is undergoing a remodeling and will emerge later this month with an expanded food program. Look for what's being dubbed "Lounge 2.0" to debut later this month, with a menu that emphasis molecular gastronomy and overseen by new executive Pajo Bruich. The Lincoln-based chef was profiled in the Bee back in March, showing off cutting edge techniques and equipment, including the deep-freezing capabalities of a Pacojet and a penchant for sous vide cooking, in which ingredients are slow cooked in a water bath over extended periods.

Bruich will bring many of these methods to Lounge On20 (1050 20th St., Sacramento; 916-443-6620), which is slated for a "soft opening" on April 21 and then celebrating its grand opening from April 28 - 30. The lounge menu will continue to emphasize small plates, with prices in the $8 range, and include tacos with the pork cooked sous vide, in-house roasted nuts and a tweaking of the lounge's fried mac n' cheese recipe. Entree prices will range from about $18 to $28, and while this menu is still being fine tuned, plan on such items as house cured hamachi belly with compressed melon, and a confit filet of Alaskan halibut with baby artichokes, fennel, carrots and watercress.

"I'm looking forward to exploring and doing some new things and some different things," said Bruich. "A large percentage of our menu is being based around sous vide and ways to utilize the technology ... I think this (new position) will give me the platform to explore new ideas, the manpower to execute them and the support of the customers to make it all possible."

We sure miss Rick Kushman's unfailingly cheery dispatches from the local food and wine scene around here. You can now catch the former Bee columnist running a series of wine classes and tastings titled, "Why Wine is More Fun Than People Make it Sound." That's to say, Kushman will leave the purple prose at home and bring wine down to earth and answer common questions about storage, tasting tips and background in how wine is made. The first of these monthly classes will be held Saturday at Lava Cap Winery (2221 Fruitridge Rd., Placerville; 530-621-0175). The class runs from 1 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. and costs $25. Now grab a glass and let's get to getting on some fun and informational wine education.

An opportunity to help low-income families get on track to healthier eating is coming to the Sacramento Food Bank & Family Services starting Friday. Meals for Health, sponsored by EarthSave International, is a free 30-day program to promote a low-fat, plant-strong diet for families in need. Candidates are being selected by the Sacramento Food Bank, who are identifying families with health problems and would benefit from nutritional education, shopping and exercise tips, and help with food preparation. For more information: www.earthsave.org.

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Stuart Spoto shows off a bottle of his wine at his Arden Oaks home. Credit: Chris Macias

When it comes to wine tastings, few match the buzz and hype behind Taste of Oakville. The tasting, an especially hot ticket that's limited to wine industry and media, features some of the Napa Valley's most coveted (and astronomically pricey) wines from the Oakville appellation, including Opus One, Harlan Estate, Bond and Screaming Eagle. And for the first time, a Sacramento winery will pour at this event.

Spoto Wines, based in a local Arden Oaks neighborhood, will be pouring two wines at this April 18 tasting: 2008 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($85) and 2008 Cuvee Arianna ($45), a cabernet sauvignon-based Bordeaux blend. Though owner and winemaker Stuart Spoto creates these wines in the 916 area code, he sources the fruit from Oakville, including a 30-acre vineyard owned by UC Davis.

Wineries have traditionally been grouped in alphabetical order at Taste of Oakville, meaning Spoto Wines will likely be right next to Screaming Eagle at this event. The 2007 vintage of Screaming Eagle currently fetches about $2,000 a bottle on the secondary market, and Taste of Oakville offers a rare chance to taste this much hyped wine. That's not to mention all of the other blue chip wines that will be poured at the tasting, where any bottle less than $100 is considered a bargain.

More than 143 samples of olive oil were sipped at this weekend's California Olive Oil Competition, held at the Yolo County Fair. The results are now in, following careful sipping, swirling and tasting by the judges, with six "best of show" winners and the Patty Bogle-Roncoroni Award which deemed the "best of the best" olive oil.This grand sweepstakes award was created this year in honor of the late Patty Bogle, the matriarch of Bogle Vineyards who was also a board member of the Yolo County Fair and helped create this competition.

The winners will be displayed at the Yolo County Fair from Aug. 17 - 21. Here's a list of the top winners, and a full rundown of winners will be up soon at www.yolocountyfair.net.

Best in show

Delicate Intensity - Lucero Olive LLC, Corning - Sevillano
Medium Intensity - I1 Fiorello Olive Oil Company, Fairfield - Frantoio
Robust Intensity - Vine Ray Farms, Woodland - Tuscan Blend
Yolo County Resident - Vine Ray Farms, Woodland - Tuscan Blend
Flavored Oil - Sutter Buttes Olive Ranch, Sutter - Blood Orange
Organic Olive Oil - Katz Rock Hill Ranch, Napa - Other Blends

Patty Bogle-Roncoroni Award - Katz Rock Hill Ranch, Napa

The owners of de Vere's Irish Pub have announced that a Davis location for their popular watering hole will open in September.

A lease was signed in March for a 4,800 square foot space at 217 E St. in downtown Davis, a space formerly occupied by Soga's restaurant. Like its downtown Sacramento location, the Davis branch of de Vere's will focus on Irish-themed drinks and decor, and a menu that includes house-made bacon, blood sausages and other pub fare. The Davis location will be about 1,000 square feet larger than its Sacramento pub, and includes a wraparound patio.

Co-owner Henry de Vere White, who once ran a college pub in Seattle, feels confident that Davis is a good fit for his Irish pub.

"We love the food movement out there and just relate well to the area," said de Vere White. "We're going to cater to the Davis community as a whole, from the professors and college students to those with families and kid-friendly brunches. We want locals to come in and have a pint and have a nice change of pace."

Many might think of beer being a guy's kind of world when it comes to brewing, but an April 16 event at Rubicon Brewing Co. (2004 Capitol Ave., Sacramento) hopes to change this perception. Grab a pint and enjoy the fifth annual "Women in Brewing" event which will include brews from Moylan's Brewing Company, Sierra Nevada, Stone Brewing Company and more. The brewfest will also feature a history of women brewers, with proceeds going to Women Escaping a Violent Environment (WEAVE). For more information, visit Rubicon's web site.

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Better get your guts in gear. The Sacramento River Cats baseball season starts April 7 and they're rolling out some food items that'll send your digestion into extra innings. How about a "Donut Bacon Cheeseburger" ($7.75, $9.75 w/ fries) while you root on the 'Cats? It's a 1/3 pound burger topped with cheddar cheese and bacon, and nestled between two glazed donuts - you know, just like grandma used to make when she said you weren't eating well enough. (That is, if your grandma is Paula Deen).

Or maybe the new "Baked Potato Dog" ($7) is more to your liking. It feels almost as heavy as a newborn, with a Raley Field jumbo dog plopped inside a butter and sour cream laden baked potato. This twist on the good old fashioned hot dog should be eaten with a knife and fork, unless you have some rubber gloves on hand. It's something like eating a hot dog and mashed up french fries all at once.

These were among the new food items previewed today at Raley Field, where more than 50,000 hot dogs and sausages are consumed over the course of a baseball season. Many fan favorites remain, including the "Sac Town Dog" ($7) with fried onion strings and bleu cheese crumbles. The "Pacific Wild Salmon Tacos" ($7.75), which proved to be a hit with fans looking for a somewhat healthier food option, will also return in their salsa fresca and lime-cilantro aioli goodness.

In the mood for stuffing yourself silly, while at the same time raising money for education charities? Well you're in luck because Taste and Celebrate Giving Back is coming to The Park (1431 L St., Sacramento) on April 11. The event, sponsored by the California Restaurant Association, will feature an as-yet-unnamed list of participating local restaurants but the event is expected to draw a number of local politicians including Mayor Kevin Johnson. (And if you're there rubbing elbows with the Mayor, be sure to ask him about the possibility of making Sacramento more food-truck friendly). Tickets cost $75, and additional donations will be accepted at the dinner. Proceeds will benefit the California Restaurant Association Educational Foundation and STAND UP, a non-profit organization led by Mayor Johnson to support educational excellence. For more information: calrest.org.

First Mikuni rolled out its "rescue roll," a $12 mix of Panko shrimp, seared tuna and other ingredients with sales proceeds donated toward Japanese disaster relief. Now, Mikuni executive chef Taro Arai and Roseville's Bayside Church are teaming up with the hopes of raising $75,000 for more relief efforts. On Wednesday, Mikuni will host a benefit dinner at Bayside Church (8191 Sierra College Blvd., Roseville), which should also be noted as the rare church to have its own Starbucks. However, the dinner has sold out but donations are still being accepted online here. For those who've scored a ticket to the dinner, it'll be a night of Japanese food, music and a silent auction. In the meantime, you can pick up a "rescue roll" through March 31.

Calling all fans of Sacramento's food and restaurant culture: Mark your calendars for April 13 at 6 p.m. The Sacramento Bee and Sacramento Press are joining forces to host "Table Talk: The region's food community comes together for an evening of lively discussion." Join the conversation as two panels of leading local chefs, restaurateurs and food writers share their thoughts on the state of local food writing and "what Sacramentans eat," a candid discussion of local food trends. Light snacks will be provided by Source Global Tapas.

The event is free and will be held at The Bee (2100 Q Street, Sacramento). Registration is limited to 160 guests, so surf on over to http://www.sacbee.com/tabletalk/ and sign up today. We'll see you at Table Talk!

The late Patty Bogle is remembered most for helping to grow the Sacramento area's wine region into a national force, but she was also a huge advocate for olive oil. Bogle, who passed away Feb. 11 from complications of leukemia, will be honored March 30 at the California Olive Oil Competition. Sponsored by the Yolo County Fair, this competition featured 135 entries in 2010 and ranks among the country's largest olive oil competitions. This year's "best of show" winner will receive a Patty Bogle Roncoroni memorial trophy to commemorate Bogle's role in nurturing this event over the years. Bogle met her future husband, Ernie Roncoroni, when the two served on the Yolo County Fair board and Roncoroni currently serves as the board's co-chairman. Roncoroni and Bogle ultimately co-founded this olive oil competition. Look for the results to be announced in the first week of April.

In other Bogle news, the winery's petite sirah was featured this morning on the Today show as a "go-to" wine. Click here to see Hoda Kotb and Kathie Lee Gifford, along with Ray Isle of Food & Wine magazine, go gaga over Bogle around the 2:10 mark.

Ah yes, how nice a glass of barbera hits the spot with a pasta in red sauce or even a traditional margherita pizza. The pronounced acidity and berry-driven flavors of barbera makes it a cinch for many food pairings, and we in the Sacramento area are fortunate that this Italian variety finds a good expression around the area. So, mark your calendar for the 2011 Barbera Festival, which will be held on June 11 at Cooper Ranch in Shenandoah Valley (21365 Shenandoah School Rd., Plymouth). Cooper Vineyards, a longtime champion of barbera, is an apt host for the 70+ California wineries which are expected to pour barbera at the event.

The event will run from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tickets cost $30 advance, $40 at the door. For more information on ordering: click here.

By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

Do you know of a local restaurant that's desperately in need of a make-over? You know, maybe the booths are looking pretty buckety, there's a perpetual leak in the roof when it rains and the kitchen looks like a culinary train wreck? If so, the producers of Fox's "Kitchen Nightmares" want to hear from you. Taping is going to start soon on this reality TV show hosted by Gordon Ramsay, and producers are looking for some Sacramento area restaurants as "Kitchen Nightmares" candidates.

Send your nominations to kitchennightmares@theconlincompany.com or leave a message at 1-866-226-2226. Good luck, and may the worst restaurant win!

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Look for the latest entry into Sacramento's burgeoning food truck scene to hit the streets within a month. Drewski's Hot Rod Kitchen, run by caterer Andrew Blaskovich, will serve gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches in a 27 foot long food truck adorned with hot rod flames. Though the menu's still in development, Blaskovich plans to serve grilled cheese sandwiches stuffed with Korean short ribs, pulled pork, fried chicken and other fixin's. He'll also offer a vegetarian sandwich with eggplant, carmelized fennel and other ingredients on wheat bread. Look for these sandwiches to cost in the $7 range.

"They're gonna be huge," said Blaskovich, calling from an auto body shop where work is being done on his food truck. "They'll be stacked super high, and I'll be using local bakeries for the bread and local produce.

Blaskovich has run his own private catering company for the past six years, feeding such clients as Sacramento hard rock stars the Deftones, and events at the Hyatt Regency and Nordstrom. Blaskovich also worked in the kitchen at the Hyatt before starting his own catering company.

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PHOTO CREDIT: A bottle of Hitachino Nest White Ale on the bar at Morgan's Bar and Grill. Casey Mar, Sacramento Bee.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

If you're a huge fan of Hitachino Nest beers like I am, now's the time to start stocking up on these Japanese ales. In a move to help with disaster relief efforts, Kiuchi Brewing - the company behind Hitachino Nest - has suspended beer production and will focus on bottling water for the near future. In an e-mail sent by the importers of Hitachino Nest to the BeerAdvocate forum, it was also reported that some damage was sustained at the brewery and imports will likely be disrupted for months.

That means it's time to savor a Hitachino Nest XH, a full-bodied Belgian-strong style ale that's been aged in sake casks. We'll also miss that citrus-y and spicy touch with the Hitachino Nest White Ale for time being, but also realize there are more pressing issues in this world than the ability to grab a brewski.

Meanwhile, I've been checking with local distributors of Japanese food to see how the earthquake has effected their business. Check tomorrow's Bee for the scoop on that.

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PHOTO CREDIT: Patty Bogle pictured in June 2009 during a family meeting at her Clarksburg home. Jose Luis Villegas, Sacramento Bee.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Here's a final reminder that the memorial service for Patty Bogle, the matriarch of Bogle Vineyards in Clarksburg, will be held at 2 p.m. Friday at UC Davis' Robert & Margrit Mondavi Center (One Shields Ave., Davis). Bogle passed away on Feb. 11 due to complications of leukemia.

The memorial service is expected to draw a who's-who from the Sacramento area's wine industry, which Bogle and her late-husband Chris helped put on the national map with the founding of their winery in 1979. Bogle Vineyards now ships more than 1.2 million cases of wine annually.

In lieu of flowers, the Bogle family invites contributions to be made to the Bogle Family Charitable Fund, to benefit local scholarships and schools, industry organizations and various other charities. Sacramento Region Community Foundation, 740 University Avenue #110, Sacramento, CA 95825-6751.


By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

On the heels of today's Wine Buzz column, which introduced Jeremiah Morehouse as the new wine director for Enotria Restaurant Wine Bar (1431 Del Paso Blvd., Sacramento; 916-922-6792), here's some info. about where you can see Morehouse in action. On March 31, Enotria will host a wine dinner featuring Sinor-LaVallee and Ancient Peaks, two family-owned producers from the central coast. Dinner, with wine pairings, will unfold over four courses and cost $68 per person.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Downtown Galt is about to get some flavor a la the Shady Lady. Brewster's Bar and Grill, a new venture from the team behind downtown Sacramento's Shady Lady, is expected to open by early April. The 6,000-plus square foot building, which was constructed in the mid-1800s was formerly a general store and post office before being renovated by D&S Development - the same development team behind Sacramento's 14th and R corridor which includes Shady Lady, Magpie Cafe and other local businesses as tenants.

Look for the menu at Brewster's to include plenty of comfort foods, including four different steaks, burgers, pizza and soups. Prices are expected to range from $9 for a burger to $24 for a New York steak. Brewster's will also carry more than 70 wine selections, with an emphasis on producers from nearby Lodi.

Now all Brewster's needs is some staff. A job fair will be held on Thursday at Brewster's (201 4th St., Galt) from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. to hire servers, cooks and other staff.

"We're looking for good talent from Elk Grove, Lodi and Galt," said Jason Boggs, a partner in Brewster's. "We want to get as many locals as possible."

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

After decades of serving chow mein and other Chinese food staples to Sacramentans, the venerable Hong Kong Cafe at 5th and Broadway is slated to close at the end of May. According to owner Hon Wong, the property has been sold to a new owner and Wong's simply ready to retire at the age of 72.

The original Hong Kong Cafe opened at Fourth and L streets in the late 1940s and moved to its Broadway location, a former drive-thru, in 1961. Generations of Sacramentans have since dined at this downhome Chinese restaurant with a simple decor that was seemingly frozen in time.

For its faithful customers, news that this local Chinese food institution will be closing soon is hard to swallow.

"It's just sad," said Paula Escalante of Sacramento. "No more peanut duck, oh my gosh! My dad would take us there once a week and when my kids go, they take their kids. (Hon) was like part of our family."

Hong Kong Cafe is located at 501 Broadway in Sacramento; (916) 442-7963.

March 7, 2011
Oz Clarke on Lodi

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The great wine author Oz Clarke recently stopped in Lodi for some wine tasting and also gave this great Q&A interview with the Lodi News-Sentinel. It's probably the best and most candid assessment of Lodi that I've ever read, and definitely worth checking out next time you hit Lodi's wine country. Here are some choice quotes on the strengths of Lodi:

"The people in Lodi are fantastic. If I was going to go out and have some beers and go dancing and get a bit lit up, I think the Lodi guys I've met are some of the best. That's important because it means they have a vision of pleasure and flavor."

"In 10 years time, Lodi will have all the varietals that Napa and Sonoma don't have. The millennial generation will be coming here saying they buy your Tempranillos and your Petite Syrahs. You can be the engine room for change in California."

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PHOTO CREDIT: Shari Fitzpatrick drizzles white chocolate onto a dark chocolate-dipped bottle of wine in her home kitchen in Placerville. Randall Benton, Sacramento Bee

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Shari Fitzpatrick of Shari's Berries fame recently released a book that detailed her life and chocolate dipped strawberry business with "Berried in Chocolate." She's since been busy with book signings - not to mention the release of a new frozen line of treats - and has a new set of appearances set for Sacramento and Davis. Both book signings are set for March 12:

- 4 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. at The Avid Reader at the Tower (1600 Broadway, Sacramento; 916-441-4400)

- 7:30 p.m. at the Avid Reader in Davis (617 2nd St., Davis; 530-758-4040).

In the meantime, surf over here for Fitzpatrick's tips on making chocolate dipped strawberries at home.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Tres Agaves, the Mexican restaurant and tequila bar in Roseville, will undergo a name change later this month to TRES: Tequila Lounge & Mexican Kitchen. Its parent restaurant in San Francisco has already adopted the new name, with this location at the Fountains shopping center (1182 Roseville Parkway, Roseville; 916-782-4455) switching over to TRES by March 18 - right in time for a tasting dinner featuring Casa Noble tequila.

According to Fountains spokeswoman Heather Atherton, the name change is being prompted by a split in Tres Agaves' ownership, with two original founders leaving to start their own Tres Agaves tequila brand. With the name change to TRES, the restaurant will add seven or eight new tequila brands to its lineup, which already features more than 150 tequila bottles. TRES' kitchen will also debut a new 10-spice blend and some tweaks to its menu. More information will be coming soon, and "Appetizers" will keep you posted.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Pubs and watering holes of all kinds are obviously the focus of this week's Sacramento Beer Week celebrations. But one grocery chain is also getting into this sudsy mix. Nugget Markets throughout the Sacramento area are hosting a series of tastings in conjunction with Sacramento Beer Week. On Thursday, for instance, you'll find a Sierra Nevada tasting at Nugget's West Sacramento location (2000 Town Center Plaza, West Sacramento) and Lagunitas for the sipping at Nugget Market in El Dorado Hills (4500 Post St., El Dorado Hills), and other beers featured at select stores.

Sounds like a good deal, right? Pick up some pasta and paper towels, sample a little beer ... the tastings run from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Saturday. Click here for a full list of Nugget's in-store beer tastings.

March 1, 2011
24 hours in Napa

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Revved up the car and reached Napa around 12:30 p.m. Friday. First stop was the wine tasting at Spring Mountain Vineyards, which coincided with the celebrations of Premiere Napa Valley weekend. We felt just the slightest dusting of snowflakes there above St. Helena, and then headed deep into the Spring Mountain's barrel room, which was housed in a cave cut into the hillside.

The wines here showed plenty of extraction, deep colors and sturdy tannins - all hallmarks of the Spring Mountain appellation - with offerings from Keenan Winery, Newton Vineyard, Vineyard 7 & 8 and more. It was also here where we tasted the best wine of the weekend, a gorgeous 2001 Pride Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which reveled in that sweet spot of juicy primary fruit and earthy complexity from bottle aging.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

This blog's going to be looking fairly sudsy for the immediate future now that Sacramento Beer Week is kicking off. In terms of beer, a week is more like 10 days with this second annual event that runs from tonight through March 6. So get thirsty and head down to the Crocker Art Museum (216 O St., Sacramento) from 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. tonight for the Sacramento Brewers Showcase. Local music, small plates from Mulvaney's B&L and of course plenty of local beers will all be on tap. $20 gets you 10 tastes of beer.

And that's just for starters. Sacramento Beer Week feature more than 300 events, and we'll have some highlights in tomorrow's Ticket section. For a full line-up of events at Sacramento Beer Week, visit their web site.

Note: Sacramento Beer Week organizers want everyone to have a good time but stay safe, so keep a cab number handy or designated driver as you proceed through the week.

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PHOTO CREDIT: Todd Humphries, executive chef and co-owner of the St. Helena restaurant Martini House smells the flavor of a matsutake mushroom he found in the hills near Angwin Monday, Jan. 12, 2009. Randy Pench, Sacramento Bee

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

A couple years ago, the Bee followed wild food expert Connie Green around a Napa County forest as she foraged for mushrooms. The story also included Todd Humphries, the chef of St. Helena's Martini House with a Michelin star to his credit, who also champions the culinary delicacy of mushrooms. The two are now teaming up with Kelly McCown, executive chef of Ella Dining Room & Bar, for a "wild table" dinner on Sunday at Ella.

The five-course meal features such prized fungi as dentinum hydnum umbilicatum and boletus edulis,paired with such dishes as braised pork belly and roasted Millbrook venison. The dinner also reunites Humphries with McCown, as the Ella chef served as chef de cuisine under Humphries at Martini House. The price is $125 per head, which is on par with dinner at Ella's sister restaurant, The Kitchen. If you've got some money to burn on a gastronomic feast, this mushroom dinner should suit you well.

For more information:
(916) 443-3772.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Due to overwhelming interest and response, the public memorial for winery owner Patty Bogle has been moved to March 11 and will be held at the Robert & Margrit Mondavi Center at UC Davis. The memorial will start at 2 p.m.

Bogle, 59, passed away Friday from complications due to leukemia.

In lieu of flowers, the family invites contributions to be made to the Bogle Family Charitable Fund, to benefit local scholarships and schools, industry organizations and various other charities. Sacramento Region Community Foundation, 740 University Avenue #110, Sacramento, CA 95825-6751.

February 15, 2011
Remembering Patty Bogle

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By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

The remembrances have been coming all day, following the news that Patty Bogle passed away on Friday due to complications of leukemia. The comments section of the story along with Bogle's Facebook page have been filling steadily with well-wishers and condolences from friends, family and fans of the Clarksburg winery that Patty helped put on the country's wine map.

In my years of covering wine, I'm not sure I've comes across anyone in the wine industry who was so universally liked and well-regarded. When I profiled Patty and her family for a story in 2009, I was struck with her unfailing good nature, helpfulness and candor about elements of her family business along with the health struggles that ultimately claimed her life at the age of 59. While spending time with her in Clarksburg - as she talked about staying competitive in the cutthroat wine industry, plus transitioning the family winery to her children - you could tell she was an extremely astute businesswoman.

Patty was also a champion of petite sirah, a grape which produces a rich, inky wine and grows well near the Sacramento Delta. It was this grape, along with chenin blanc, that created the foundation for a winery that now ships some 1.2 million cases a year.

Jo Diaz, executive director of the petite sirah appreciation society known as PS I Love You, penned a wonderful and personal tribute to Patty Bogle here. Give it a read ...

Patty, the wine drinkers around the Sacramento area and parts beyond raise a toast to you. Rest in peace, and best wishes to the Bogle family as they continue the winery's mission.

By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

The Bee has just learned that Patty Bogle, matriarch of Bogle Vineyards in Clarksburg, passed away Friday at age 59 due to complications of leukemia. Her son, Bogle president Warren Bogle Jr., confirmed this news

Bogle and her late husband, Chris Bogle, built Bogle Vineyards from a small winery with 18 acres of grapes to a major regional winery that ships more than 1 million cases annually. After being diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia in 2007, Patty Bogle stepped back from many of her winery duties, with children Warren Jr., Ryan and Jody overseeing the bulk of the family's business.

For more on Bogle and her legacy, read tomorrow's Bee.

Gallery: The Bogle family

Winery's transition sustains family legacy

February 11, 2011
A primer on Egyptian wine

By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

Given today's resignation of President Hosni Mubarak of Egypt, I started wondering about the country's wine industry. I've understood that Egypt has produced wine throughout the ages, but how much does the country produce and what does Egyptian wine taste like? Alder Yarrow of Vinography has a great post from 2005 that answers these questions about Egypt's wine culture and much more. The short take is that Egypt's wine is, well, something of an acquired taste with three main producers creating the bulk of the country's wine.

In a related story, check out this USA Today article from 2006 about white wine discovered in King Tut's tomb.

By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

Most of us know Carson Rd. in El Dorado County as part of the Apple Hill trail, but it's also an area that's home to more than a dozen wineries. And on Feb. 26, the affiliation of Carson Road Wineries will host Cuisine on Carson, which will feature each winery pairing at least one wine with an appetizer. The event is free, and customers are encouraged to bring a wine glass. Prizes will even be doled out for especially unusual wine glasses.

Participating wineries include: Crystal Basin Cellars, Illuminaire, Jodar, Garnet Sun, Lava Cap Winery, Findleton Estate, Fenton Herriott, Para-Vi Winery, Madrona Vineyards and Wofford Acres Vineyard.

Cuisine on Carson runs from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information, visit Carson Road Wineries' web site.

By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

Good news for those who've been looking to dabble and sip their way through some wine education. Donal Smith, known for his longtime stint in Corti Brothers' wine shop and tasting classes, is offering a new series of wine appreciation classes. You can learn the finer points of wine sensory evaluation, from aromatics to better understanding the flavor profiles of grape varietals. The goal, says Smith, is to make you a better wine consumer when it's time to buy a bottle or order off a wine list. And of course, having fun is perhaps the top priority here.

Smith will teach with a selection of wines from Beyond Napa Wine Merchants (2580 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento; 916-481-8665) . Appetizers will be provided by Corti Brothers.

This class series will run on Wednesday nights from Feb. 23 - March 9, and will be held at Steel Magnolia (701 16th St., Sacramento). The cost is $35 for one class, or $89 for all three. Class size is limited to 35 tasters, so get signed up at 916-203-4641 or donalswines@yahoo.com.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Such local restaurants as One Speed and The Press have created their own house wines, but here's an example that gets into the realm of small-batch spirits. For the second year, Grange restaurant has partnered with Woodford Reserve to create a house bourbon. I got an early taste of this bourbon a couple months back, not long after Grange mixologist Ryan Seng had returned from Kentucky to help craft this blend. Let's just say this is some tasty hooch, with a balance of pecan flavors, vanilla oakiness and a bit of spice.

You can try this bourbon for yourself on Feb. 23 at Grange (926 J St., Sacramento; 916-492-4450) in a dinner with Woodford Reserve's master distiller. Check out this gut-buster of a menu:

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By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

My "Wine Buzz" column today tested out some new wine preservation systems that were on display at last week's Unified Wine & Grape Symposium. It's a hot topic both for restaurateurs who literally don't want to pour their profits down the drain when wine goes bad, and I regularly receive e-mails from readers who want advice about extending the shelf life of their wine once the bottle's been open.

The enemy here is oxygen, which in small amounts is necessary to "open up" a wine - which is why young wines are typically decanted for at least 30 minutes to soften. But with too much exposure to air, chemical reactions cause wine to oxidize and lead to deterioration in taste and color. That's why so many wine preservers are on the market, from the Wine Shield to high-end Enomatic systems designed for wine bars.

Wine preservers geared for the home tend to have mixed results. And I know of at least one high-end local restaurant that doesn't use a wine preserver for its by-the-glass program because the wine director still feels nuances in wine still get lost, no matter how much nitrogen and argon gas is pumped into a bottle for preservation.

For wine drinking at home, I got a good preservation tip this morning from Kurt Burris, a local wine salesperson. He says: "Here is an idea for those who want to save wine. Keep a couple of smaller bottles, one 375 ml and one 187 ml, clean and pour your leftovers in, using a clean funnel. Cork, refrigerate (this slows the oxidation) and enjoy later. Or just drink it all which is my preferred solution."

Keep in mind that some bottles simply show better on the second day. For me, this holds true for young Bordeaux and full-bodied domestic reds. And for those nights when I just want to have a single glass, I skip the preservers and opt for a 375 ml half bottle. I wish more local wine shops carried a larger selection of half bottles, but I've had good luck at Corti Brothers, Taylor's Market, Capitol Cellars and Total Wine & More in Roseville.

Anyone else have tips for keeping an opened bottle fresh? Leave a comment ... grazie!

January 31, 2011
Goat dinner coming to Grange

By Chris Macias, Bee Food and Wine Writer
cmacias@sacbee.com

At the tail end of 2010, I queried local and national sources to see what food trends were in store for 2011. Patrick Mulvaney of midtown's Mulvaney's B&L restaurant went on a limb to declare that goat would be the hot meat of 2011, especially with farm-to-table restaurants. Well it looks like the prediction is starting to come true. Grange Restaurant (926 J St., Sacramento; 916-492-4450) will be hosting a dinner on March 10 featuring grass-fed goat and lamb from McCormack Ranch. Wines will be poured by Dancing Coyote from Clarksburg. Information about time and price is coming soon, so consider this a heads up.

By the way, we know the idea of goat sounds a little too close to the petting zoo for many tastes. I was a skeptic too, until I had a dish of chivo barbacoa at Rick Bayless' Topolobampo in Chicago a few years back. This slow-cooked goat was thoroughly succulent, lean and less gamey than many lamb dishes I've tried. That's not to mention the goat I've had in the Mexican stew known as birria, and if you want to give that a spin I highly recommend Birrieria Bugambilias in south Sac (7242 Franklin Blvd., Sacramento; 916-424-3243).

That's to say: Goat - it's what's for dinner.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The Sacramento Mobile Food Festival - a.k.a. SactoMoFo - is coming April 30 at Fremont Park (16th and Q streets, Sacramento) and has landed some of the biggest names in gourmet food trucks. Among them: Spencer on the Go, the San Francisco food truck as featured on cable TV's "Great Food Truck Race," which specializes in French food (escargot lollipops, anyone?). The popular Chariman Bao's Bun Truck from the Bay Area will also be in board. Other confirmed vendors include:

- Curry Up Now (Indian street food)
- Mini Burger (Sacramento's first gourmet food truck)
- Seoul on Wheels (Korean eats)
- Red Truck (Truckee-based food truck)
- Hapa SF (Filipino food)
- Happy Go Lucky (vegan cuisine)
- La Piedad (beloved Sacramento taco truck)
- Little Green Cyclo (Vietnamese street food)
- Fat Face (Davis sandwich mecca)
... and Whole Foods Market!

The impetus of this festival is to show that Sacramentans are hungry for food truck culture, despite strict city ordinances that have prevented this national trend from taking hold in Sacramento.

On a related note, Mini Burger will make its debut Saturday at the Make-A-Wish Winter Wine & Food Fest at the Sacramento Convention Center. In the following days, the Mini Burger truck will start rolling through Sacramento with its menu of burgers and made-from-scratch sides. How will Mini Burger fare with the current city ordinances, which prevent food trucks from staying in business districts for more than 30 minutes? Stay tuned for more on that ...

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

On the heels of news that 2010 saw the wine industry rebounding, organizers of the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium have another reason to celebrate. This year's attendance of 12,200 set a record for the Sacramento event, featuring workshops, panels and a trade show for the wine industry.

With talk in previous years that Unified may have outgrown the Sacramento Convention Center as its home base, organizers made room for an additional 22 vendors at the trade show, bringing the total number to 630 exhibitors.

"There was definitely some improvement in the economy indsustry-wide and many session topics covered those issues, which was part of the interest," said Lyndie Boulton, executive director of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture, a co-presenter of Unified. "As far as people, we haven't reached capacity but we're constantly re-evaluating booth space. We like being in Sacramento. It's in the heart of agriculture and being the capital is great for issues of regulation. It's a nice balance for us."

Unified 2011 concludes at 4 p.m. today. For reviews of some new wine-related consumer goods featured at the trade show, check next Wednesday's Food & Wine section in the Bee.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The nation's largest wine and grape growing expo is officially underway. The 17th annual Unified Wine & Grape Symposium kicked off this morning at the Sacramento Convention Center and Hyatt Regency. More than 12,000 wine industry professionals are expected to attend the event, which runs through Thursday and includes a trade show with 630 exhibitors. With talk in previous years of Unified on the verge of outgrowing the Sacramento Convention Center, space was made for an additional 22 vendors at the trade show, which took over a space once reserved for exhibitor registration.

Unified arrives at a critical time in the domestic wine industry. Rocked by the recession in recent years, and subject to an unseasonably cool growing season in California, industry professionals are anxious to hear the final crop reports and consumer trend information for 2010. Those will be shared tomorrow morning at Unified's "state of the industry" general session at 9 a.m.

But for now, exhibitors are setting up for the trade show, which opens tomorrow and considered the biggest day of activity at Unified. Organizers are meanwhile fretting at Mother Nature, as fog delayed many flights into Sacramento this morning and threatened the availability of some speakers.

Stay tuned for more Unified news as the week moves along.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Some of the biggest icons in the world of beer are coming to the area. The Budweiser Clydesdales are coming to the Anheuser-Busch Fairfield Brewery Tour Center (3101 Busch Dr., Fairfield) on Jan. 29. The history behind these horses dates back to 1933, when August Busch, Jr. presented a team of Clydesdales to his father to commemorate the end of Prohibition. More fun facts: each Clydesdale must be at least 4-years-old, stand 6 feet tall and weigh between 1,800 and 2,300 pounds.

After some photo opportunities with the Clydesdales, a complimentary tour will be offered of the Anheuser-Busch Fairfield Brewery. Guests of ages 21-and-up will also get to sample some brews.

For more information: (707) 429-7595 or www.budweisertours.com.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Strings, the Northern California chain that specializes in pasta, is opening a new eatery concept near downtown's Amtrak station. Strings Express will debut on Feb. 14 at 431 I St., with 25 items under $7.50 and made to order in five minutes or under. Along with pastas, Strings Express will sell salads, paninis and wraps with a motto of "Fast, Affordable, Grubby" - with "grubby" meaning "good grub."

The partnership behind Strings Express includes local developers Johan Otto and Steve Ayers, with Alexis LLC and Strings founder Al DeCaprio.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

It's the Sunday night of a three-day weekend, so hey, why not check out the new wine bar at Enotria? You may have read recently how $1.5 million was sunk into Enotria's expansion, giving birth to a remodeled restaurant (which is set to open in February) and a new wine bar near the corner of Del Paso Blvd. and Arden Way which debuted Jan. 11.

There's definitely a "new wine bar" kind of smell when you walk in, with some paint still detectable to the nose. The room itself looks pretty sleek with its racks of wine bottles on the walls and shiny new bar. Business looked good on this night, with most tables being taken up in the early evening.

One thing that's also expanded at Enotria is its cocktail program. There's about a dozen drinks to be had on its cocktail menu, including a pink and "Sex and the City"-ish "Winter in Del Paso" (pomegranate, ginger beer, Canton liquer, vodka). The "Enotria Cadillac" (Galliano, creme de cacao, cream and simple syrup) came in a pint glass and looked just like a vanilla milkshake. The portion was certainly generous but seemed to be an overly filling way to start a night of eating and drinking.

The wine program features plenty of options, from a rich Cote de l'Ange from the Châteauneuf du Pape to French bubbly (Piper-Heidsieck Brut) and domestic options from St. Supery, Paul Hobbs and James Blake of Amador. All wines are available as a 2 ounce taste, full glass or by the bottle.

Executive chef Anthony Brenes has crated a wide ranging bar menu with Latin overtones. Along with an earthy take on mac 'n' cheese with crab and mushroom, and the now requisite pulled pork sliders, you'll find grilled Argentine sausauge with chimichurri sauce and sopes de carnitas. Though the sausage was a tad dried out, the overall flavors we found were vibrant and invited sips of wine. The small plate prices are reasonable too, ranging from $6.50 to $12.50. But prepare to pay between $22 and $32 for entrees.

Enotria's wine bar shows plenty of potential and it'll be interesting to see how much customer traffic is gained. But for now, the wine bar itself needs a much more lively vibe. Maybe it was because of the Sunday night dreariness and cold, but apart from the hostess the staff seemed kind of sullen throughout service. This place needs more smiles and pep to make it feel like a real hot spot of food and wine in Sacramento.

We'll see how this all shapes up with more time.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The food options at the Fountains shopping center in Roseville continue to grow. Mikuni Kaizen, a new restaurant concept run by Sacramento's Mikuni Japanese Restaurant Group, is set to open at the Fountains in early April. While more detailed information about the menu is yet to come, sushi will remain a staple at Kaizen (meaning "change for the better in Japanese") but with an expanded menu compared to other locations in Mikuni's nine-restaurant chain.

The opening of Mikuni Kaizen arrives with the recent announcement of Yard House coming to the Fountains. Construction will begin later this month on the Irvine-based brew pub chain, known for its oversized "yards" of beer, with a grand opening slated for July.

Check this space soon for more details on Mikuni Kaizen and Yard House.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Not to be confused with the uber-popular Kogi BBQ food truck in Southern California, the team behind The Park and Cafeteria 15L is bringing GoGi's Korean BBQ to 15th and L streets in downtown Sacramento. Starting Jan. 18, GoGi's will be in the former "Park to Go" kiosk, which served sandwiches and other casual fare during lunch and late night hours.

Like Kogi, GoGi's Korean BBQ will serve a menu of Asian-infused tacos and burritos, with such fillings as Korean barbecued beef, spicy chicken and tofu. And you can bet plenty of Sriracha hot sauce will be on hand.

And here's a deal for you: GoGi's will be giving out free Korean beef tacos from Jan. 18-21.

GoGi's Korean BBQ will be open 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays - Fridays and during late night hours Fridays and Saturdays. For more information: (916) 442-7333.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Ready ... set ... cook! Central California Dutch Oven Adventures will host a cook-off at Cal Expo on Jan. 22, with first place netting $250. Beginners and amateurs are encouraged to enter this contest, which will be a 3-pot cook-off to show off recipes for a main dish, bread and dessert.

The fun and Dutch oven excitement is all part of the International Sportsmen's Exposition, which runs Jan. 20 - 23 at Cal Expo. The winner of the Dutch oven cook-off also gets an invite to enter the 2012 International Dutch Oven Society's world championships. Now, get those recipes out and let the games begin.

For more information: www.ccdoa.webs.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Sacramento's first gourmet food truck will be rolling through town starting Jan. 29
, co-owner and restaurant industry veteran Davin Vculek said Friday.

Mini Burger will serve gourmet burgers and fries through its mobile truck, he said, while also satisfying a hunger from locals who have been craving gourmet food trucks in Sacramento.

Vculek is a former corporate chef with Guy Fieri's restaurant chain and a silent business partner in Mini Burger. He and his partners are modeling Mini Burger after Kogi BBQ, a southern California food truck that's been featured in Bon Appetit magazine and tweets its location to more than 79,000 followers.

Like Kogi BBQ, Mini Burger will use social media and its web site (www.miniburgertruck.com) to give updates of its current location. Mini Burger will feature a menu of burgers such as the "cow town" and a "ninja" burger with Asian slaw and sriracha aioli. A two-pack of burgers costs $6, or three for $8, while sides cost $2 each.

Vculek's business plan projects for a minimum of 100 customers daily with a $1,000 gross, and plans to serve throughout the city limits, including midtown and north Sacramento. Successful gourmet food trucks can gross upwards of $400,000 annually.

"This concept was actually designed many years ago, and we thought it would be great for a land-based restaurant," said Vculek. "But when food trucks became popular in L.A., we knew this would be a great concept for a food truck."

Food trucks emerged as one of the nation's biggest culinary trends over the last year, serving such dishes as Belgian waffles, chicken adobo and escargot in cities including Portland, Ore., and San Francisco. The Food Network even launched "The Great Food Truck Race" in August and attracted 2 million viewers in its debut.

But in Sacramento, strict city ordinances, including a 30-minute limit before food trucks have to move at least 400 feet, have put the brakes on this trend. Vculek and his partner expect the necessary paperwork, including a health permit from the County of Sacramento, to be wrapped up within a week. Even with the time limits, Vculek insisted that Mini Burger can thrive.

"The city isn't so friendly with ordinances,but I've found some ways where you can work it out," said Vculek. "In 30 minutes, we can serve a good amount of people. Mainly for us, we just want to be respectful of restaurants and won't park in front of them."

Sacramento city officials are meanwhile warming up to the idea of gourmet food trucks. Mayor Kevin Johnson told The Bee in August that he believes the city council "can develop a plan that allows mobile food trucks to thrive alongside other businesses."

Dafna Gauthier, business permit manager for the city of Sacramento, recommends that food truck entrepreneurs get well-acquainted with current ordinances.

"If someone came in and said they'd abide by the 30-minute rule, we'll see what we can do to make it happen," said Gauthier.

Mini Burger plans to debut at the Make-A-Wish Foundation's Winter Wine & Food Festival on Jan. 29 at the Sacramento Convention Center.

"We're going to pioneer this thing and see what happens," said Vculek. "We hope the city will catch on."

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

For those looking for a taste of foie gras, bone marrow and pork belly in the suburbs, a new option is ready to go. Roseville's Pause Lounge & Kitchen (1465 Eureka Road Ste. 100, Roseville) is now open for business. Located in the Stone Point Center, Pause features a variety of small plates, ranging from $3 house cured olives to $16 seared foie gras, while entrees range from $18-$24. The drink menu emphasizes craft and imported beers - think: Stone Smoked Porter and Hitachino Nest Red Rice Ale - while the wine list mixes such California stalwarts as Jordan and J Vineyards with selections from Italy, Argentina, France and other locales.

A proper grand opening party will be held Jan. 14, with a six-course chef's tasting menu that costs $50. For more information: (916) 916.772-1525.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

How are your skills in making buzz-free cocktails? The California Office of Traffic Safety is seeking entries in its Mocktail Recipe Contest for non-alcoholic drinks - or "dranks," as we like to say. The winner of this contest takes home a Nook eReader and a $50 gift card for Barnes & Noble. To enter this contest, take a quick hiatus from playing Mafia Wars or Farmville and go to the contest's Facebook page for further instructions.

So who's going to help determine the winners? Me, that's who! I'm on the judging panel with Joe Anthony Savala, beverage manager at Zocalo restaurant, and Chris Cochran, assistant director for the California Office of Traffic Safety.

But hurry, because entries need to be received by tomorrow. Good luck, and let the best mocktail win.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

A new form of food assistance is coming to the Davis Farmers Market (4th and C streets, Davis). Starting Saturday, Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) cards can be used to purchase items at the farmers market, from bread and eggs, to vegetables and pork. EBT cards are essentially an electronic version of food stamps, and they're increasingly being accepted at farmers markets. In Sacramento, EBT cards can currently be used at the Oak Park Farmers Market (which closed for the season on Oct. 16) and the Natomas Farmers Market (also closed for the season).

In Davis, representatives from the California Department of Social Services will swipe an EBT card in exchange for wooden tokens which can be redeemed for goods. This EBT program will be expanded to Davis' farmers market on Wednesdays starting March 16. For more information: www.davisfarmersmarket.org.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The food truck trend has largely skipped Sacramento because of strict city ordinances. But there's a little relief coming soon. The Sacramento Mobile Food Festival - a.k.a. SactoMoFo - will be held on April 30 from noon to 6 p.m. at Fremont Park (16th and Q streets, Sacramento).

The event will feature more than a dozen food trucks, including vendors from Yolo County and the San Francisco Bay Area. Adobo Hobo, a Bay Area food cart that specializes in such items as chicken adobo tacos and vegetarian adobo over rice, has already been confirmed. Also look for San Francisco's Sweetface Bakery, along with Sacramento taco trucks and a homemade ice cream vendor from Davis. Local restaurateurs are also expected to run their own food trucks and carts.

"One of the reasons for the event is to show proof to the City Council that these kinds of events work and they should kill current regulations that outlaw these carts," said Joshua Lurie-Terrell, an event organizer and founder of yumtacos.com.

We'll keep you updated as more vendors and information come through. Event organizers are meanwhile looking for additional food vendors and volunteers to help run the event. If you want to pitch in for this 100% volunteer-run event, e-mail: hundertwasser@yahoo.com.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Did you all catch midtown's own Golden Bear featured last night on "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives?" Well shoot, I have to say that Sacramento showed great on the Food Network. Don't know about you, but my tummy started to rumble as Golden Bear executive chef Billy Zoellin whipped up banh mi sandwiches, a meat-less and cheese-less pizza (and wow, that smoked slaw looked great) and tacos for host Guy Fieri and a crew of Golden Bear regulars.

Some of the folks who caught some camera time included: Billy Ngo (owner of Kru/Red Lotus), Casey Mar (Bee Night Life columnist), Adam Saake (food writer for Submerge magazine) and Anthony "Pag" Paganelli (guitarist for Will Haven).

Just check the Food Network's web site, and don't see any clips yet from last night's show. We'll keep you posted on that. The Food Network also filmed other eatries around the River City for "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives" last year, including Gatsby's and Dad's Kitchen, so we'll see when those segments are scheduled to air. Stay tuned ...

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Plan on pairing that glass of cabernet at Back Wine Bar with a little construction over the next couple months. The Folsom wine bar is knocking out a wall to make way for Back Bistro, which will expand its small plate offerings into a fuller menu that includes entrees and added appetizers. Owner Jeff Back says to expect Back Bistro to be up and running by late February. For more information: www.backwinebar.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

"Appetizers" has been writing about the Food Network coming to Sacramento to film episodes of "Diners, Drive-ins, & Dives" over the last few months. Soon, it'll be time to tune-in to the Food Network. The episode featuring midtown's Golden Bear is set for Jan. 3 at 10 p.m. The Golden Bear (2326 K St., Sacramento; 916-441-2242), which received a solid 3-star review by the Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson, will also host a viewing party on Jan. 3 at 8 p.m. For more information: www.goldenbear916.com.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Sacramentans with a love for suds, get your pint glasses handy. Sacramento Beer Week is set for Feb. 26 through March 6. Now in its second year, the successful beer festival will feature more than twice the amount of events from its debut this past February. Between all the pint nights, beer dinners, bar specials and festivals, Sacramento Beer Week 2011 will feature more than 400 events. Look for Beer Week to be honored not just in the city limits, but in Davis, Auburn, El Dorado Hills and other neighboring areas. Details are still being worked out for a Sacramento Beer Week grand opening bash at the Crocker Museum, but the whole event will come to a head with a beer festival at Cal Expo.

"When we were planning this out, we wanted to do something in mid-February, which is a slow time of year for restaurants and bars," said Rick Sellers, the beer director of Sacramento Beer Week and co-founder of Sacramento's Odonata Beer Co. "We're trying to get as many brewers from California and around the country and make a party of it, in a responsible way of course. The longterm goal is to make this a celebration of California beer."

For more information: sacramentobeerweek.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

More than two dozen El Dorado county wineries are getting ready to roll out the barrel and let customers take a taste. "Bring Out the Barrel" is set for Jan. 29 - 30, with a weekend of barrel tasting from 2010 and other recent vintages. Along with food and other merriment, some wineries such as Fenton Herriott are offering "futures" pricing for wines that have yet to be bottled. Participating wineries include David Girard, Auriga, Jodar, Holly's Hill, Mount Aukum and many more. A weekend pass costs $20, and the event runs from 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. daily. For more information and a full line-up of events, click here.

December 14, 2010
Worst restaurant foods 2010

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

OK, so maybe I'll hold off on PF Chang's Double Pan-Fried Noodles Combo (served with beef, pork, chicken, and shrimp). Holy salt lick! That entree contains a whopping 7,692 mg of sodium. No wonder that this made Men's Health's Worst Foods in America, 2010. Other foods that made the list include Cheesecake Factory's Bistro Shrimp Pasta (2,730 calories) and IHOP Big Country Breakfast with Chicken Fried Steak & Country Gravy (2,440 calories, 5,520 mg sodium). Hold on to your gut and check out the rest of the list ...

SOUP.JPG

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

It was a "souper" Saturday at Camelia Waldorf School, where I helped judge the Golden Ladle Soup Competition. The annual soup competition is held in conjunction with the school's winter fair, and this year found Taylor's Kitchen, Zocalo, Ella Dining Room and Bar and Cafe Bernardo all vying for the "golden ladle" award and priceless bragging rights. After taking a seat in a small elementary school chair, and with plastic spoon in hand, here's how the soups showed:

Taylor's Kitchen, Jerusalem artichoke wild mushroom soup: This soup had a rich and soothing body, and comfy smoky flavor. My personal top pick.

Ella Dining Room and Bar - San Marzano tomato soup with cheddar cheese croutons: Savory with a nice underlying tang. A little more weight would've made this tasty soup even better.

Cafe Bernardo - cauliflower and roasted fennel soup: Nice creaminess but needed just a little more flavor for this palate.

Zocalo - mole de olla soup: By far the spiciest of the bunch, but the body needed more heft.

So which soups took home honors? Here are the winners ... *insert drum roll here*:

Judge's Award: Taylor's Kitchen

Kids Choice
(judged by Waldorf students): Ella Dining Room and Bar

People's Choice: Cafe Bernardo.

Congrats to the winners ... and please pass the baguette.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Check out today's Food & Wine section for a column aboutwine aging, as demonstrated by a 10-year vertical tasting of Shafer Relentless. The wine's a blend of roughly 80 percent syrah and 20 percent petite sirah, making for a big, fruit-forward wine with gamey and pepper characteristics. A glass of Relentless and grilled lamb is just about a no-brainer. Shafer Relentless retails for about $60 and can be found locally at the Wine Consultant, Beyond Napa, select Nugget markets and Total Wine & More in Roseville.

But how does this big boy of a wine age? I was invited by winery president Doug Shafer to taste 10 years of the wine, along with Shafer winemaker Elias Fernandez, "The Wine Bible" author Karen MacNeil, Charles Olken ("Connoisseurs Guide to California Wine"), Michelle Locke of the Associated Press and others. Here's how the wines showed:

1999: Debut vintage of Relentless. Among the bluest in color in the entire flight. Described as a "behemoth" upon release, the weight has toned down but still showing plenty of blueberry petite sirah characteristics. Slight heat on the nose. Strong secondary flavor of cinnamon and plenty of tannins holding it all together.

2000: Cool vintage. Deep purple color with brightness on the rim. A little lean on the palate, but drinking smooth and showing a nice layer of spice. Good wine given a challenging growing year.

2001: Wine of the flight? Simply lovely and open for business, with savory aromatics and red fruits coming through on the palate. Nice sweet spot between the wine's core fruit and secondary notes from bottle age.

2002: Throwing a little sediment in the glass. Oaky and tight compared to the others. Needs a little more aging but still some juicy blueberry flavors.

2003: Color showing signs of aging. Different nose than the others; Doug Shafer described aromas as "candy like." A bit austere and herbaceous, but also some meaty and plum flavors emerging on the palate.

2004: Warm vintage and overripe flavors that border on port-like. Not aging as gracefully as other vintages.

2005: Herbal nose. Bright and pleasing acidity. Lots of petite sirah character coming through and still drinking like a baby.

2006: Cool vintage with slow ripening fruit. Tight and tannic, but some good fruit flavors underneath. Still needs to come into balance.

2007: Current vintage at retail and restaurants. Aromatic and smoky. Syrah character prominent here with gamey flavors and spice.

2008 (barrel sample): Rich, deep purple color. Oak still seems a ways off from integrating with the wine. Primary grapey flavors and sweetness.

2009 (barrel sample): Relentless as an infant. Teeth-staining purple color. Fresh fruit flavors and aromas. Actually enjoyed this Relentless in its primary state.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Look for some new flavors and personnel at Tres Agaves, the tequila bar and Mexican restaurant chain with a Roseville location (1182 Roseville Parkway, Roseville; 916-782-4455). Joseph Aragon Jr. has signed on as the new chef and will oversee a winter menu that was designed by San Francisco Head Chef Kelvin Ott. Here's what you can grub on, between sips of Fortaleza Reposado:

Camarones (Shrimp) Tacos

Pato (Duck Confit) Tacos

Rajas Tacos (vegetarian Chile Dulces)

Tuna a Las Brazas (Achiote-Sesame Encrusted Ahi Tuna Salad with pineapple, seasonal tomatoes, green onion & a Tequila Arette vinaigrette)

Pescado a la Brasas (Grilled California Seabass)

Empanadas "Jaliscan style"

Chef Aragon is a veteran of such local restaurants as La Provence, Pachanga and has worked at Tres Agaves for the past year,

"I've always been very impressed by the originality and freshness of Tres Agaves' menu," said Aragon in a press release. "I look forward to experimenting even more with the flavors of Jalisco we feature and bringing back our farmers market specials where we can feature fresh food from local farmers."

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The grand opening has been delayed for almost a year, but the doors finally swung open today for Capitol Cellars' new location at Quarry Ponds shopping center in Granite Bay (5530 Douglas Blvd, Suite 170, Granite Bay; 916-780-9030). The 2,200 square foot shop features a bar with 20 different wines by the glass plus a retail shop that focuses on small production wineries.

Look for such by-the-glass offerings as a merlot from Paloma and Lewis Cellars' cabernet sauvignon. Customers can also order food from such neighboring restaurants as Hawks and Pete's Restaurant & Brew House. Business will continue as usual at Capitol Cellars' Roseville location (110 Diamond Creek Place, Roseville; 916-786-9030), but owner Marcus Graziano plans to spend the majority of his time now at the Granite Bay shop.

"Everything's moving and grooving," said Graziano. "We'll have lots of great deals and specials, and still carry popular wines like Rombauer and Silver Oak. But we're really focusing on small, sought after wineries."

Capitol Cellars in Granite Bay will be open from 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. from Monday through Wednesday, and 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. from Thursday through Saturday. The shop is closed on Sundays.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Yesterday's Food & Wine section featured a Q&A interview with Charlie Bamforth, the UC Davis professor of malting and brewing sciences who was recently named "brewmaster general" by Playboy magazine. The good professor has a new book out, "Beer Is Proof God Loves Us: Reaching for the Soul of Beer and Brewing," a tome that probes both the philosophical and business aspects of beer.

On Monday, Bamforth will hold a lecture and book signing at UC Davis' Silverado Vineyards Sensory Theater, located in the Robert Mondavi Institute Sensory Building. We're told that a few seats are remaining, so put down that pint glass and register here. The cost is $35, $20 for UC Davis staff, students, faculty and Friends of the Robert Mondavi Institute. The event runs from 5:30 p.m. - 7:40 p.m.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The season for bubbly has arrived and you can usher it all in with a champagne and oyster tasting tonight at Lounge on 20 (1050 20th Street #100, Sacramento; 916-443-6620). For just $25 at the door you can sample more than 50 champagne and sparkling wine producers and see how they all pair with a variety of oysters. The festivities run from 5 p.m. - 8 p.m. Cheers!

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Scott Pruett's known for speeding around the track on the NASCAR and Grand-Am circuits, but the Auburn resident also has a taste for wine. This year Pruett released the first vintage of his Pruett Vineyard wine, and you can get a taste of it on Wednesday at Carpe Vino in Auburn (1568 Lincoln Way, Auburn; 530-823-0320). They'll be pouring the 2008 Lucky Lauren Section 8, a red blend from the Sierra Foothills, and 2009 Pruett Grenache. The tasting costs $20, $10 for Carpe Vino wine club members.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Happy Cyber Monday, and if you're looking to share the gift of wine here's a deal to consider. Wine.com is offering $60 worth of wine for only $30 - a.k.a. a 50 percent savings. But you have to act fast to claim this discount. The first step is to sign up with Living Social, which offers daily deals sent to your e-mail or smart phone. Each offer is good for only one day, so you have just over 17 hours to get this 50 percent discount from wine.com.

And for those of you looking for a deal from a brick-and-mortar business, swing by The Market at Pavilions (515 Pavilions Lane, Sacramento) for $5 sandwiches today and all following Mondays. That's when the store celebrates "customer appreciation day" and you can score $5 on all sandwiches including their "Mendocino Masterpiece" (Smoked turkey, Lappi cheese, Mendocino mustard) and the "Mexicali" (turkey, hot pepper cheese, salsa guacamole).

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

November 24, 2010
Where did the wild turkeys go?

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Norm Gold's cycled the American River Bike Trail regularly for the past 20 years, and always has a question when the holiday season rolls around. Where did all the wild turkeys go?

He usually notices the turkeys in flocks of six to 20, mingling among the squirrels, deer, quail and other animals that habitate near the American River. But once Thanksgiving approaches, it seems all that gobbling just goes away.

"My biking buddies and I joke that the turkeys have gone into hiding because people are looking for them," said Gold, an education consultant from east Sacramento. "But it's clear they're just not around. They show up after the holidays and I see them again maybe around February."

According to the California Department of Fish and Game, wild turkeys can be found in 18 percent of the state. Hunting them is allowed with a hunting license and upland game bird stamp, with a limit of one turkey during the fall hunting season.

However, folks rarely flock to the American River Bike Trail to illegally bag a Thanksgiving turkey. Wild tukey hunting is not permitted on the American River Parkway.

"We haven't had issues with that," said Ryan Pocan, a park ranger assistant with the Sacramento County Department of Regional Parks. "We notice them a lot on the American River Parkway and they stay in the same area pretty much all year round."

You'll also find plenty of wild turkeys throughout the year at the Effie Yeaw Nature Center, located on the American River Parkway. So, the turkeys haven't been captured or completely ditched the bike trail. The turkeys just tend to scatter more this time of year to look for new food sources.

"What they're eating now is fresh green growth that's sprouting after the rain," said Brena Seck, a naturalist with the Effie Yeaw Nature Center. "There's so much of that green growth now that they just spread out. We see the turkeys every day. You can be reassured they don't dissapear. They're just eating somewhere else this time of the year, but they didn't go far."

That news makes Gold feel relieved for the turkeys.

"It is reassuring to know that they're not being poached and there's nothing nefarious going on," said Gold. "I guess the American River Parkway is a safe place to be a turkey."

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

November 23, 2010
Time to brine that turkey

brine2.jpg

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Judging by the lines at the grocery store, we can tell that Turkey Time is coming soon. And if you're looking to add an extra dimension of flavor and moisture to your Thanksgiving bird, it will soon be time to brine that turkey as well.

Here's a recipe "Appetizers" just received from Pajo Bruich, a local boutique caterer and private chef known for his dinner series with Anani Lawson, the former French Laundry sommelier who's now at Per Se in New York City. Bruich says the sugar in the brine will help enhance the turkey's browning, and produce meat with overtones of herbs, apple and a touch of underlying sweetness. Serve with a glass of rosé or perhaps a pinot noir, and your tastebuds will be saying "thanks" as well.

Turkey Brine

32 cups ice water (2 gallons)
2 cups kosher salt
1 cup honey
1 cup brown sugar
4 cup apple cider
24 bay leaves
2 bunch thyme
2 bunch sage, chopped
1/2 cup Tablespoons black peppercorns
4 green apple diced
6 cinnamon sticks
4 tablespoon candied ginger
zest and juice of 4 meyer lemon

Method: Bring 4 cups of water and one cup of cider to a boil with all other ingredients, except apples. Once sugar and salt is dissolved, pour the hot mix into a clean large pot, large enough to hold the turkey and the liquid. Add the remaining ice water, cider and apples and mix well. Make sure this is ice cold, then add the bird, making sure it is covered completely, and brine in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours, up to 24 hours. (You may have to put a pan on top pf the bird to keep him submersed.)

I find the above trick with ice water is the way to instant brining and not having to cool overnight prior to using.

After 12 hours, rinse the bird well, truss the bird and you are ready to bake as you normally would!

November 22, 2010
Breakfast back at OneSpeed

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

After going on hiatus in July, breakfast has returned to OneSpeed (4818 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento; 916-706-1748) in east Sacramento. But take note that it's only being served on Sundays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Look for such breakfast items as breakfast calzones, Belgian waffles and mimosas. Pizza and beer will then be served from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays, followed by a full dinner menu.

In other OneSpeed news, drop by weekly for "Beer Wednesdays" for special features on suds. This Wednesday will feature Brown Shugga' from Lagunitas, which true to the name is brewed with brown sugar and reaches a nearly 10 percent alcohol level.

For more information: onespeedpizza.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Revolution Wines
has been running in "soft launch" mode for the past six weeks at its new space on 28th and S streets. Now it's about time for a proper grand opening ceremony. Come to Revolution Wines (2831 S St., Sacramento) from Nov. 19 to Nov. 21 for celebrations that include barrel tasting, tours and sampling of dishes from the winery's new food program.

Formerly located at 21st and P streets, the new digs for this urban winery include 5,600 square feet of space, with expanded tasting room and a winery chef to create a bistro menu. Lunch will be served at Revolution Wines from Tuesday through Friday, and look for such plates as polenta with grilled mushrooms, a sandwich dubbed "The Italian" served on ciabatta bread and a "winemakers platter" with meats, cheeses and crostini.

Revolution Wines' kitchen will be headed by Simone McKinley, a former sous chef at Taylor's Kitchen and cheesemonger at Whole Foods.

Co-owner Gina Genshlea expects the new facility crush 70 tons of grapes this year, and will eventually expand to 120 tons annually. Larger storage tanks as this winery and the increased space have already allowed Revolution Wines to offer new wines, including a port-style malbec, and a blend of tannat and touriga called "Rio Tinto."

Grand opening events will run from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. from Nov. 19 - Nov. 21. For more information: www.revolution-wines.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The dinner features a veritable dream team of Sacramento chefs: Kelly McCown from Ella, Patrick Mulvaney, Billy Ngo of Kru/Red Lotus, Michael Tuohy of Grange and others. The dinner's going down Sunday at The Kitchen (2225 Hurley Way, Sacramento) and this $125 a head meal sold out within 24 hours of its announcement. For a little more background on this dinner, check out this recent column by the Bee's Rick Kushman.

The idea is to show what Sacramento chefs are capable of, especially when they band together. And in this spirit of comradeship, donations were the dinner were received by Temple Coffee, Sunh Fish, Riverdog Farms and a variety of wineries. Proceeds from the dinner will also go to the River City Food Bank.

Look for more collaborations like this in the near future - and in the meantime, here's a look at the final menu for Sunday's Sacramento Chef's Dinner:

Amuse Bouche
"Ice Cube" of Smoked Pork Tongue and Foie Gras in Whisky Gelee
Chef Stan Moore of The Kitchen

Raviolini of Capon with Truffle, Cavolo Nero, and Capon Broth
Chef Pedro DePina of Selland's Market Café
Paired with 2002 Roederer Estate L'Ermitage, Brut, Anderson Valley

2nd Course
Broiled Sea Scallop, Cauliflower Coulis, Matsutake Mushrooms,
and Asian Pear with Fresh Turmeric
Chef Kelly McCown of Ella Dining Room and Bar
Paired with 2008 Facets of Gemstone Chardonnay, Estate, Yountville

3rd Course
Roasted California Squab, Parsnips, and 16-Hour Quince
Chef Michael Touhy of Grange
Paired with 2008 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Clark and Telephone Vineyard, Santa Maria

4th Course
Fettuccine Carbonara, Circle O Ranch Goat Bacon and Vegas Farm Egg
Chef Patrick Mulvaney of Mulvaney's B&L and Culinary Specialists
Paired with 2007 Facets of Gemstone Red, Estate, Yountville

5th Course

Cider Glazed Berkshire Pork Belly, Winter Squash, Burgundian Truffles,
Compressed Apple, and Celery
Chef Pajo Bruich of Pajo's Catering
Paired with 2007 Gemstone Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Yountville

6th Course
Seared Strip Loin of Storm Hill Angus Beef, Fingerling Potatoes, Garlic Confit, Caramelized Brussels Sprouts, Bordelaise "Mirror", and Bearnaise Buttercream
Chef John Paul Khoury of Preferred Meats
Paired with 2006 Gemstone Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate, Yountville

Dessert
Apple Caramel Brioche "Monkey Bread", Calvados Caramel Ice Cream,
Sweet Smokey Apple, and Bacon Brittle
Pastry Chef Rachel Kelley of Ella Dining Room and Bar
Paired with 2004 Mer Soleil "Late" Harvest Viognier, Santa Lucia Highlands

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Professor Vernon Singleton spent four decades at UC Davis' Department of Viticulture and Enology, and renowned as one of the wine world's experts in chemistry. Singleton, who retired in 1991, will be acknowledged for his key research into such subjects as wine maturation and barrel aging by being inducted into the 2011 Vintners Hall of Fame.

Singleton will be inducted on Feb. 21 at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, and will join such fellow 2011 inductees as:

Joel Peterson: co-founder of Ravenswood Winery and champion of single-vineyard zinfandel.

Bob Trinchero: he introduced the wine world to white zinfandel at Sutter Home Winery and was an early proponent of Amador zinfandel.

Vintners Hall of Fame "pioneer" inductees include August Sebastiani of Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery and domestic pinot noir pioneer Richard Graff of Chalone Vineyards.

"These five men have had a tremendous impact on improving the quality of wine for everyday drinkers," said W. Blake Gray, chair of the nominating committee, in a statement. "Anybody who's a fan of California wine today can find some reason to thank them.


In two Sacramento connections to the Vintners Hall of Fame, former Bee food wne wine editor Mike Dunne served on the nominating committee, while grocer and wine expert Darrell Corti was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame in 2008.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

For lover of citrus fruit, fall means that it's time to peel some mandarins and enjoy that sweet, tangy fruit. And you have a chance to do plenty of that from Nov. 19 - 21, with the 17th Annual Mountain Mandarin Festival at the Gold Country Fairgrounds (1273 High St., Auburn). You'll find cooking demonstrations, entertainment and more citrus than you can stomach in a single setting.

As for this year's mandarin crop, the bounty is expected to be lighter than the previous year. Mandarin trees tend to bear bigger harvests in alternate years, and 2010 is one of those off seasons. But there will still be plenty of fruit to go around. Here are the details:

17th Annual Mountain Mandarin Festival

November 19-21
WHERE: Gold Country Fairgrounds, 1273 High St., Auburn
HOURS: Friday: 11:00 am - 5:00 pm; Saturday: 9:00 am to 5:00 pm; Sunday: 9:00 am to 4:00 pm.
COST: $6; Seniors $4; 12 & under free
PARKING: $5
INFO: (916) 663-1918 or www.mandarinfestival.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Apart from Hawks in Granite Bay, you're not going to find much in the way of "slow food" around the Roseville 'burbs. But a new Roseville restaurant called Pause Lounge & Kitchen is expected to open by the end of November, emphasizing farm-to-table and locally sourced foods. Lucas and Leyland Jacob Elia, the brotherly team behind Bloom Coffee & Tea, have joined forces again to open Pause. Look for such menu items as seared foie gras, beef marrow bones, duck breast and house cured olives.

The menu will emphasize small plates, but also offer a chef's tasting menu nightly with optional wine pairings.

"We're big fans of the 'slow food nation' so we wanted a name that fell in line with that," said Lucas Elia. "We also wanted to transport people from the suburban environment they're in, and taken to a place of craft and substance where they can enjoy good food and wine. It's a pause from everyday life."

For more information: www.pauselounge.com

November 2, 2010
Election day wine deals

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Hey there, voter. If you're feeling in need of a glass of wine - and who isn't after the barrage of campaign ads these last weeks - don't throw away your "I voted" sticker. A couple local wine bars are offering Election Night specials:

- Wear your "I voted" sticker to Back Wine Bar (25075 Blue Ravine Rd. #160, Folsom) and you'll get a glass of wine for half price with the order of a small plate.

- And over at L Wine Lounge Restaurant and Bar (1801 L St., Sacramento) bring your "I voted" sticker and you'll get happy hour prices on food and drink until close. Score!

"Appetizers" approves this message ... thanks for reading and happy voting.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

Chef Ray -Haunted House finished2010.jpg

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Is there such a thing as First Pumpkin? If so, you could call Ray Duey the commander-in-chief of pumpkin carving. The Lodi chef and vegetable sculptor created a haunted house that was built from carved pumpkins and displayed at the White House for Halloween. Duey and his carving team spent two days assembling the pumpkin haunted house, which included stems and seeds as part of the intricate decor.

While Duey wasn't handling pumpkin guts and wielding his carving knife, the team was taken on a private tour of the White House.

"This was quite an experience, one that I will not forget", said Duey, in a statement. "It was a privilege and honor to be there".

To see more of Duey's art, click here.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Could there be an employee exodus going on at The Market at Pavilions? Earlier this week, we reported that store wine director Michael Chandler had resigned to help run The Cellar at Matteo's. Now we've got word that pastry chef Cindy Lemmon has left The Market at Pavilions to develop desserts for the Bella Bru Cafe chain. Lemmon's worked previously at Bella Bru, and a new location recently moved into a former Starbucks located at the Pavilions. Lemmon's trained under Nancy Silverton, the renowned pastry chef and baker, and also attended the San Francisco Baking Institute. We look forward to tasting her latest goodies ...

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Sacramento diners pinch their pennies when it comes to tipping, compared to more than two dozen cities around the country. Those were among the results released today from Zagat's 2011 America's Top Restaurants Survey. While the national average for restaurant tipping was 19.2 percent, Sacramento ranked second-to-last in the survey with an 18.6 average tip. Only Hawaii ranked lower in this survey of 31 national markets, logging an 18.4 percent tip. San Francisco and Seattle tied Sacramento with an average 18.6 percent tip, showing that the west coast lagged overall in tipping compared to the rest of the country. New Orleans ranked highest for tipping at an average 19.7 percent.

In terms of overall tipping trends, the national average of a 19.2 percent tip is up from 19.1 percent last year.

In other Zagat news, here are the Top 5 Sacramento restaurants for overall food:

1. Le Bonne Soupe
2. The Kitchen
3. The Waterboy
4. Mulvaney's
5. Biba Restaurant

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Local sommelier and wine merchant Michael Chandler has some new plans in the mix. Chandler resigned from his duties as wine director at The Market at Pavilions over the weekend, meaning his popular Friday night tasting series is no more. Chandler will now focus on opening The Cellar at Matteo's at the 5 Points shopping center in Carmichael.

Chandler's working on the project with Matt Woolston, owner/chef of the Supper Club and Matteo's Pizza & Bistro. The shop will be located adjacent to Matteo's in what was its private dining room, offering both a wine bar and retail sales. Look for The Cellar at Matteo's to be open in about three weeks.

"I'm so looking forward to it," said Chandler. "We'll have the old guard wines but my goal has always been finding the hot new items. We'll probably have a shelf for $9.99 and under bottles. With this economy, you've got to have it."

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

And the food news just gets better for military veterans. On Nov. 7, McCormick & Schmick's restaurants will offer a free entree to military veterans for its 12th annual Veteran's Appreciation Event. Menu picks include such seafood items as parmesan crusted tilapia, roasted cedar plank salmon and almond crusted rainbow trout.

"Our Veterans Appreciation Event has become a tradition that our restaurants look forward to each year," said Bill Freeman, CEO of McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurants, in a statement.

For more information: www.mccormickandschmicks.com

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Whether you're a military veteran or on active duty, the folks at Applebee's want to thank you for your service with a free meal on Nov. 11. All that's asked is you provide proof of service - including U.S. Uniform Services Identification Card, U.S. Uniform Services Retired Identification Card, Current Leave and Earnings Statement, photograph in uniform or wearing uniform - and you'll get free pickings from a special menu (dine-in only). Items include: 7 oz. house sirloin, bacon cheeseburger, three cheese chicken penne, chicken tenders platter and more. More than 1 million members of the military enjoyed this deal in 2009, according to a press release.

For more information: www.applebees.com

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

October 19, 2010
Jim-Denny's for sale

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Have $295,000 to invest? If so, you can be the proud new owners of a Sacramento burger and breakfast institution. Jim-Denny's (816 12th St., Sacramento) was put up for sale Monday, just shy of three weeks since the diner received its biggest national exposure. On Sept. 29, Jim-Denny's was featured on the Travel Channel's "Man V. Food," where host Adam Richman attempted to conquer a stack of 13" pancakes.

Retirement plans for co-owner Patsy Lane prompted the sale, said daughter Joanna Lane.

"We'd been thinking about selling for a while," said Joanna Lane. "We have been super slammed and busy since we were on 'Man V. Food,' so we thought it would be a great time to sell while we're on top and doing well."

Jim-Denny's opened in 1934 on 16th and J streets, and moved to its current location on 12th and I streets after original owner Jim Van Nort returned from World War II. Jim Denny's has had three owners over the years, with the Lane family taking over the business in 2005.

The $295,000 listing price includes both the diner and land.

"We'd like to see someone come in and keep it going," said Joanna Lane.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Fans of Mexican cooking and ethnic cuisine, you won't want to miss this event. Diana Kennedy, the celebrated Mexican cookbook author, will be appearing at Borders books (2339 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento) on Oct. 27. Kennedy is out on a book tour to promote "Oaxaca al Gusto," a weighty tome of Oaxacan cooking that could double as a coffee table book. Many of the ingredients can't be found in the United States, but it's a fascinating study of one of Mexico's most diverse regions and its range of recipes. Tamales de iguana, anyone?

For more information: (916) 564-0168.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The National Restaurant Association surveyed some 2,000 chefs for the year's top restaurant trends, and "going local" is all the rage for 2010. "Locally grown" produce took the No. 1 spot, while "locally sourced meats and seafood" and "sustainability" emerged as runners-up. With all the bounty surrounding Sacramento, our fair city embraces these trends well and others on the list as well.

Here's the list of the Top 10 restaurant trends for 2010:

1. Locally grown produce
2. Locally sourced meats and seafood
3. Sustainability
4. Bite-size/mini desserts
5. Locally-produced wine and beer
6. Nutritionally balanced children's dishes
7. Half-portions/smaller portions for a smaller price
8. Farm/estate-branded ingredients
9. Gluten-free/food allergy conscious
10. Sustainable seafood

For the full list of top trends and other survey results, click here (.pdf file)

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The grape crush is underway at UC Davis and its new $15 million teaching and research winery. Construction was completed in July, and the 34,000 square foot facility also features a brewery and food processing plant.

The winery, which was built entirely with funds from private donors, features state of the art fermentation systems and designed to be self-sustainable in energy and water use. The winery comes equipped with onsite solar power generation and a system for storing captured rainwater for landscaping and restrooms.

"The new teaching-and-research winery and vineyard are game-changers for the winemaking and grape growing program at UC Davis, and they will help California winemaking advance dramatically in both quality and sustainability," said Andrew Waterhouse, the Marvin Sands Endowed Chair in UC Davis' Department of Viticulture and Enology.

For more information, visit the web site for UC Davis' department of viticulture and enology.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Sake House, the Roseville restaurant run by Randy Paragary and nightclub maven Bob Simpson, has closed after less than a year in business. According to Simpson, another company approached him about buying the restaurant, which is located in the Fountains shopping center.

Sake House opened in January as Japanese restaurant and nightclub, with menu consultation by Billy Ngo of midtown's Kru and Red Lotus. Simpson has run nightclubs in Sacramento for more than two decades, including the Cosmopolitan, Empire and 815 L.

Simpson would not disclose the buyers of Sake House, but said that new operation is expected to open within three to four months.

"The Fountains was doing well with the opening of Dave & Busters, so this was all about trying to streamline a bit," said Simpson. "This was just a good business move. Personally, I have plenty of operations to run and it's time to slow down a little bit. I'm feeling positive about it."

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Sacramento's getting all kinds of cable TV love recently, including filming recently for an upcoming episode of the Food Network's "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives." And now comes tonight's installment of the Travel Channel's "Man V. Food" which will showcase some of the Sacramento area's most gut-busting food. Witness host Adam Richman as he faces off against 5 pounds of wieners at Parker's Hot Dogs. Richman also hits the cholesterol soaked midway known as the California State Fair, and also pops into Jim Denny's, one of Sacramento's signature burger joints.

The episode airs tonight at 9 p.m. on the Travel Channel. Box of Tums not included.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Along with all the art appreciating at the renovated Crocker Museum, there needs to be time for a snack, right? Local chef and restaurateur Patrick Mulvaney will help take care of that, as he will run the new Crocker Museum Cafe. Mulvaney also landed the contract to cater all museum events with his Culinary Specialists at the Crocker. The Crocker Museum's 125,000 square foot expansion, with a $100 million price tag, will be unveiled to the public on Oct. 10.

At the cafe, look for salads in the $5 range and sandwiches priced around $7. Plan to pay about $12 for more formal plates.

The cafe will be accessible without having to pay an admission fee. The hope is that the Crocker Museum Cafe will attract patrons from the nearby CalPERS building and other offices.

"We'll have cool cafe food," said Mulvaney. "There will be grab-and-go items and a hot line to get a panini or maybe some green chile on polenta. I think there's potential for a strong lunch business. We'll be ready and prepared the best we can."

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Bistro 33 Midtown, the 16th St. restaurant with the urban lounge feel, closed Monday to make way for a new concept. Look for the opening of Spin Burger Bar come mid-November, with a cycling theme and more recession-friendly prices. Most orders will likely cost under $15, said Fred Haines of SRO Inc., the local restaurant group which also oversees Bistro 33 locations in Davis and El Dorado Hills and midtown's Suzie Burger.

"The ultra lounge thing is dead and we're rolling with the changes," said Haines. "We want to get into something that's more affordable and what's driving downtown."

Spin Burger Bar will feature a variety of beef, turkey, veggie and chicken burgers, and a drink menu that focuses on beer over wine. The late-night hours will continue - Thursdays through Saturdays until 3 a.m. - and a DJ will also "spin" music to keep the vibe going.

The burger recipes are still being formulated, but are expected to be different than the offerings at Suzie Burger.

"We're still developing our blend of beef, but we have a basic idea of what we want to do," said Haines.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

September 22, 2010
'Dine Out for the Cure' details

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

You can Race for the Cure, Rally for the Cure, attend Art for the Cure - and now you can refuel from all this breast cancer awareness in the "Dine Out for the Cure." Sponsored by Susan G. Komen for the Cure, a host of local eateries will participate in "Dine Out for the Cure" with a series of promotions and special food pairings, with proceeds benefitting Komen Sacramento. It's all happening from Oct. 1 - 31, aka Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Here are a couple of highlights:

Michaelangelo's (1725 I St., Sacramento; 916-446-5012) will offer penne pasta with pink vodka sauce, with 50 percent of proceeds going to the Sacramento Valley Affiliate of Susan G. Komen for the Cure.

Cafe New Orleans Hot & Spicy
(117 J St., Sacramento; 916-443-5051) will host live music on Oct. 10 and special desert and cocktail pairings throughout October.

For a full list of participating restaurants and more details, click here.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

No, he's not on a mission from God, as the line went in "The Blues Brothers." But Dan Aykroyd will be coming to BevMo (3106 Arden Way, Sacramento) on Sept. 29 from 4 p.m. - 6 p.m. as a mission to promote Crystal Head Vodka. It's a vodka label launched by Aykroyd and comes in skull shaped bottle. Spooky! But we're not afraid of no ghost ... but if you're afraid of long lines, plan to get to the appearance early. Aykroyd will be signing bottles of his Crystal Head Vodka, and you can pre-order them from BevMo at the cost of $49.99 for a 750 ml bottle and $99.99 for the 1.75 liter version.

For more information: (916) 481-8657

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

If you're going to check out this documentary, make sure you're munching on organic popcorn from local sustainable farms. "Lunch Line" follows the ups and downs of six Chicago high school students who are on a mission to create healthy school lunches, and hit the cooking contest circuit. How do their efforts pay off? You'll have to watch to find out.

This screening, which is sponsored by Slow Food Sacramento, will be held Sunday at the Guild Theatre (2828 35th St., Sacramento) at 7 p.m. A pre-film reception will also be held at Old Soul at 40 Acres (3434 Broadway, Sacramento), and there's a post-screening panel about local advocacy efforts to keep school lunches healthier. Can we start by banning "mystery meat" at the school lunch counter?

Tickets for the movie cost $6. For more information: www.slowfoodsacramento.com

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Looking to scarf down a pint of hefeweizen and some garlic fries in a jiffy? If so, you're the key demographic for Gordon Biersch Tavern, a new restaurant concept which will debut on Sept. 30 at the Westfield Galleria in Roseville. This scaled down version of the Gordon Biersch brew pub chain will feature its beers along with to-go packaging on many food items. The menu includes Kobe sliders, mahi mahi tacos, garlic fries and more.

"We are delighted to introduce the Gordon Biersch Tavern format at the Westfield Galleria in Roseville," said Allen Corey, Gordon Biersch's president and CEO, in a statement. "We believe this is a natural extension of our brand. We will continue with the same high quality, made-from-scratch menu and same level of service and hospitality in this concept."

Gordon Biersch Tavern will be located adjacent to the Galleria's food court, and open from 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. For more information: www.gordonbierschrestaurants.com.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Think of this event as the adult version of "Thomas the Tank Engine" (maybe "Thomas the Tanked Engine?"). Catch the southbound San Joaquin Amtrak from Sacramento at 4:55 p.m. on Oct. 15, and about 35 minutes later you'll be ready to cruise the School Street Wine Stroll in Lodi. The event features more than 25 wineries plus a host of eating opportunities from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. The wine train leaves Lodi's Amtrak station to Sacramento at 10:39 p.m., and overnight guests can opt for the 11:34 a.m. train back to the River City. Tickets for the wine stroll (not including train fare) cost $30 or $40 at the event. Hotel packages which include event tickets, transportation and more cost $125. For more information: (209) 367-7840 x 100 or www.lodichamber.com. To book a train ticket: 800-872-7245 (Amtrak).

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Do you like wine? Do you like to dine? Are you cool with paying $35 in advance and $45 at the door for the opportunity to combine the two? Well shoot, then you're in luck as the first ever Wine & Dine event comes to Raley Field on Friday. So step up to the home of the Sacramento River Cats, grab a plate and glass and sample from more than 40 wineries and about 20 eateries. You big ballers out there can also buy a $70 VIP ticket that includes valet parking and a special wine tasting from L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen. The event runs from 7 p.m. - 10 p.m., and 6 p.m. for VIP entry. For tickets: www.raleyfield.com or www.ticketmaster.com.

Here's a list of participating wineries and restaurants:

WINE

Benson Ferry Vineyards
Black Sears Winery
Bogle Vineyards
Borjón Winery
Carvalho Family Winery
Dobra Zemlja
Dona dal Cielo
Gnarly Head Cellars
Heritage Oak Winery
LangeTwins Winery & Vineyards
Lava Cap Winery
Lucero Vineyards
Luchessi Vineyard & Winery
Mumm Napa
Peltier Station Wines
Putah Creek Winery
Terra d'Oro Winery
Montevina Winery
Vina Castellano Vineyard
Delicaso
Overboard

FOOD

Basic Urban Kitchen and Bar
Crush 29
The Chef's Table
Delta King Pilothouse Restaurant
Fourth Street Grille
Icing on the Cupcake
Jazzy Blues Café
Johnny Garlic's
Pearl Asian Cuisine
Plates Cafe & Catering
Raley's
Suede Blue Restaurant
Sweetwater Restaurant and Bar
Tex Wasabi's
Tuli Bistro
Vaneli's Coffee
L Wine Bar and Kitchen

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Nishiki Sushi has decided to spare its prawns. After being contacted by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), the midtown sushi restaurant has removed live prawns from its menu.

"We were informed that it was unacceptable as far as animal cruelty," said Tony Malpartida, a bartender and manager at Nishiki.

According to Amanda Fortino, a campaign coordinator for PETA, dozens of calls were received by PETA about Nishiki's live prawns. The prawns were bathed in cold sake before their tails were removed. They were then served live and still moving.

"Because we received so many calls, we contacted Nishiki and told them every animal feels pain, and we have the scientific evidence to back that up," said Fortino. "They agreed to not sell the live shrimp anymore, and we really appreciate that."

PETA bases its stance on a 2007 study from Queen's University Belfast in northern Ireland. The research found that prawns acted as if they had an injured paw when acid was dabbed onto an antennae, and the crustaceans also responded to numbing effects of painkillers.

"(Nishiki) was kind of promoting (customers) to squeeze lemon juice on their exposed flesh so they would writhe or 'dance' while being eaten alive," said Fortino.

The writhing prawns were removed from Nishiki's menu about two weeks ago, and overall shrimp sales have been unaffected, said Malpartida. The shrimp are now served in a nigiri style or as sashimi.

"People would normally get excited about them," said Malpartida about the live shrimp. "It's kind of taken the wind out."

Seafood restaurants need a saltwater tank for live shrimp, which few local sushi spots have. No other Sacramento restaurants are being told to stop this practice of serving live shrimp, said Fortino.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Here's when the domestic wine industry will descend on Sacramento: Jan. 25-27, 2011. That's the date for the 2011 Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, which attracts some 600 exhibitors and 12,000 attendees to the Sacramento Convention Center. It's regarded as the largest wine industry exposition in the Western Hemisphere, with a "state of the industry" seminar, a series of panels and trade show.

For more information: www.unifiedsymposium.org

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Hey, single ladies - and fans of reality TV. Check this out, if you're feeling a little thirsty after work: Jesse Kovacs from ABC's "Bachelor Pad" will be at L Wine Lounge (1801 L St., Sacramento; 916-443-6970) starting at 6 p.m. tonight. Not only does Kovacs melt hearts via network TV, but he's also the winemaker behind Kovacs Brothers wines. Current releases include a 2007 syrah with Monterey county grapes, a Rhone blend from Arroyo Seco and late harvest sauvignon blanc. Kovacs' wines will be for the tasting tonight and you can also pre-order his book "The Young and the Thirsty: 25 California Wines for the New School Drinker." Sounds like the makings of a lot of swooning and sipping ...

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Camera crews have been filming around Sacramento recently for an upcoming episode of the Food Networks' "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives."The latest spot to be filmed is Gatsby's Diner, a fairly new spot in the Arden-Arcade area that specializes in "American comfort food with a twist."

According to the status update on Gatsby's Facebook page: "Just wrapped up our final taping for Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives on the Food Network. We will post as soon as we know it will Air! Exciting Stuff :)"

Gatsby's joins Dad's Kitchen, Golden Bear and Putah Creek Cafe as Sacramento area eateries which are getting the Guy Fieri treatment and filmed for "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives." Stay tuned for more info. ...

Meanwhile, here's a review of Gatsby's from The Bee's "Counter Culture" column.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

In honor of California Wine Month - which you can read more about in Wednesday's "Wine Buzz" column - the California Restaurant Association organizes a Best California Wine List Competition. Sacramento has fared well in this contest before, which included top honors for the Firehouse in Old Sacramento and the Melting Pot (a franchise that includes a downtown Sac location).

Now it's The Kitchen's turn for the No. 1 spot. The Kitchen tied for first place in the category for the single location category, sharing the honors with LA Prime steakhouse at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel and Suites in Los Angeles.

Judges were looking for wine lists that reflected the bounty of varietals found in the Golden State, along with "creative wine promotions and events." Entrants were also required to write an essay about their wine program, and were ultimately judged by a panel from the Wine Institute.

The Kitchen's always been a kind of local headquarters for some of California's most coveted wines, including such high-end labels as Harlan Estate, Marcassin, Sine Qua Non, Bryant Family and Kongsgaard. But looking at a recently published list, it's not just about trophy bottles at The Kitchen but California wines with character, be it a Bokisch 2008 Albarino from Lodi or cutting-edge Scholium Project wines from Suisun Valley.

"It was illuminating to see how restaurants showcased the diversity of California wines on their menus and increased wine sales with creative promotions and staff education," said Nancy Light, director of communications for the Wine Institute of California, in a statement.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

Opa! There's some good news coming from Sacramento's 47th Annual Greek Festival. Along with the traditional ouzo drinking, wine tasting has been added to this year's menu. We're still waiting to hear which wineries are participating, but the wine tasting will take place each day of the festival from 5 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. The festival runs Friday through Sunday at the Sacramento Convention Center (1400 J St., Sacramento) and the times are as follows: Friday (11 a.m. - 11 p.m.), Saturday (12 p.m. - 11 p.m.) and Sunday (12 p.m. - 10 p.m.). Admission if free on Friday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Otherwise it's $5 general, $4 seniors and free for children 12 and under.

For more information: www.sacramentogreekfestival.com

August 26, 2010
Wine link of the day

Hate merlot, but brag about the bottles of Petrus in your cellar?

Do you diss chardonnay because a movie told you to?

Well congratulations ... you are among the Seattle Weekly's 7 Reasons Why Your Sommelier Hates You

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Better hurry if you were planning to drop by Amador County Wine Cellar (14207 Hwy 49, Amador City) for a tasting. The wine bar, which opened in 2007 and features small production wineries from the Sierra Foothills, will shut down as of Sept. 7. The bad economy was to blame said owner Corinne Moore, who poured from such wineries as Calabria Vineyards, Lang Wines and Moore's own Wine Tree Farm.

The upside is the closure will allow Moore to spend more time on Wine Tree Farm, which specializes in such Rhone varietals as grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Those wines will continue to be poured in Sonoma County at Family Wineries Tasting Room (9380 Sonoma Highway, Kenwood).

"It's absolutely been bittersweet," said Moore. "I love the wine bar and pouring wine for people who didn't have tasting rooms, including my own. I loved talking to the people and educating them."

Building owner Joyce Davidson will continue to carry some of the wines and host the "Locals' Nights" on the first Thursday of each month. In the meantime, look for Amador County Wine Cellar's gift shop items discounted 20 percent, and a 10 percent discount on wines.

For more information: www.amadorcountywinecellar.com

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

August 24, 2010
Wine tasting this week

Wednesday: Sip on some wine, root for the River Cats. Wednesday's the final throwdown for Wine in the Park, a night of wine tasting and minor league baseball that's been running through the summer at Raley Field (400 Ballpark Dr., West Sacramento). Look for the goods to be poured by Elkhorn Peak, Solune, Bent Metal and Abundance wineries from 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. Then you can watch the River Cats battle the Fresno Grizzlies with a 7 p.m. game time. Tickets are $25, or $20 with purchase of 15 or more. Information: (916) 662-0008 or www.infuzemarketing.com.

Wednesday: We're a big fan of Yorba's barbera 'round these parts, and here's some extra special sipping going on this Wednesday at Back Wine Bar (25075 Blue Ravine Rd., Folsom). Yorba viticulturalist Ann Kraemer will be pouring the winery's latest releases (barbera, tempranillo and Shake Ridge red), and Back Wine Bar will also have Yorba wines at special sale prices. Information: www.backwinebar.com.

Saturday: Help usher the 2010 harvest in Amador County with your stomping feet. Story Winery (10525 Bell Rd., Plymouth) will host a wine grape stomp competition at 1 p.m. The contest is limited to ladies only, and the winner will be crowned "Miss-Zin 2010" and have $100 donated to a charity of choice. $15 entry fee. Information: www.zin.com.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Holy carne asada, my story today about Sacramento saying "no" to food trucks sure caused a stir online. But of you're hungry for food trucks, or just interested in seeing the phenomenon first-hand, head to Jack London Square in Oakland from Friday through Sunday. It's time for the Eat Real Festival, which will feature a bounty of food trucks, carts and street food vendors. Look for the goods from Spencer on the Go (as seen on the Food Network's "The Great Food Truck Race"), Gerard's Paella, Global Soul Street Eats, Pizza Politana, and Tara's Organic Ice Cream - just to name a few.

Admission is free, and all foods are priced from $1 - $5.

Hungry yet? For more information and a list of vendors: eatrealfest.com.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

Wednesday turned out to be especially welcoming for the Cosumnes Community Services District Parks & Recreation. A fundraiser held last Friday to commemorate the opening of a new Noodles & Company location in Elk Grove (7405 Laguna Blvd., Elk Grove) netted $1611.32 for Cosumnes CSD Parks & Recreation. 100 percent of the proceeds from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Wednesday were gathered for the fundraiser.

For more information on Cosumnes Community Services District Parks & Recreation, click here.

We interrupt these latest postings on firehouse chefs and current prix fixe dinner specials to say ... the results are now in from the 2010 Zagat Fast Food Survey! That's right, this is no place to start counting your calories or to measure sodium levels. 6,500 fast foodies helped compile this survey, chomping through who knows how many mountains of fries and dubiously nutritious chicken wings. Here are a few of their results:

Best French Fries

1. McDonald's
2. Five Guys
3. In-N-Out Burger
4. Wendy's
5. Burger King

Best Milkshake

1. Dairy Queen
2. Cold Stone Creamery
3. Sonic Drive-In
4. Chick-fil-A
5. Ben & Jerry's Scoop Shops

Best Coffee

1. Starbucks Coffee
2. Dunkin' Donuts
3. McDonald's
4. Peet's Coffee & Tea
5. Caribou Coffee

Best Value Menu

1. McDonald's
2. Wendy's
3. Taco Bell
4. Burger King
5. Arby's

Click here to see the full results ... (note: "Appetizers" is not responsible for blown diets and sugar crashes after reading this survey).


We've been following the ascension of Tara Daniels, as the Woodland firefighter competes in a firehouse cook-off contest on "Live! with Regis and Kelly." If you missed the excitement this morning, we're happy to say that Daniels earned a Top 5 spot and is up for $10,000 and the chance for her recipe to be featured in Better Homes and Gardens magazine. Daniels' recipe for "Smokin' Pear Salad" garnered enough votes from Friday's studio audience to earn her Top 5 placement.

If you want to help send Daniels to the final round, vote for her recipe at the show's Web site. Voting ends Sunday night at 9 p.m. PT, and the top two vote-getters will be announced on Tuesday's show. The final cookoff will go down next Friday.

Good luck to Woodland's finest firehouse cook ... in the meantime, here's her recipe for the "Smokin' Pear Salad."

Smokin' Pear Salad

INGREDIENTS

4 boneless/skinless chicken breasts
salt, pepper, granulated garlic to taste
1 pear, firm but ripe
1 big garlic clove, finely minced
1/2 cup olive oil
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon white sugar
1 medium red onion, very thinly sliced
1 large head butter lettuce, washed and torn
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
1 cup candied pecans or walnuts
1/4 cup dried cranberries

Garlic Bread

1 loaf French bread
1/2 cup butter
4 cloves garlic, finely minced

DIRECTIONS

Clean and dry chicken breasts. Season chicken to taste with salt, pepper, and granulated garlic. Set aside.

Slice pear in half, and core.

If making garlic bread, slice loaf in half long ways, melt butter and add minced garlic, then brush garlic butter mixture on bread.

Place chicken, pears face down, and garlic bread crust down on a hot grill. Cook chicken until firm and juices run clear. Cook pears for one min, just until grill marks show.

Cook garlic bread until grill marks show, about 5 min, then flip and cook 2 min butter side down.

While the above ingredients are cooking, prepare dressing and salad.

To make salad dressing; mix minced garlic, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt, pepper, and sugar in a bowl. Whisk with fork until emulsified.

Throw sliced red onion into dressing bowl. Place lettuce in large bowl. Add blue cheese, nuts, and cranberries if needed. Slice the grilled pear into 1/8-inch thick slices and add to salad.

Remove chicken from grill, thinly slice.

Add dressing with onions to salad and toss.

Top salad with chicken. If making garlic bread, slice and serve on the side.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Just in time for Midtown Cocktail Week, the folks at Ella Dining Room & Bar are no doubt saying "cheers!" for the restaurant's interior design receiving kudos. Fast Company magazine's design blog recently featured Ella as one of "the world's most innovative restaurant interiors." The downtown restaurant shared recognition with some pretty snazzy restaurants, including Textile Pavilion of Luxembourg and Paris' Nomiya/Palais de Tokyo. Ella, which was designed by UXUS of Amsterdam, was noted for "reclaimed wood stools and hundreds of Hungarian farmhouse shutters (which) accent an otherwise steely interior, giving the restaurant a look of 'rustic luxury.'" You can see these and other restaurants in the book, "Eat Out!: Restaurant Design and Food Experiences."

Come check out this world class interior tonight from 9 p.m. - 11 p.m. as Ella hosts three satellite bars and "bar bites" to celebrate Midtown Cocktail Week. For more information: www.elladiningroomandbar.com.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

Dinner and a movie - it's a classic "night on the town" kind of pairing. The folks at IMAX (1211 K St., Sacramento) are now sweetening the deal. IMAX is offering a $5 discount with a receipt of at least $15 from any Sacramento area restaurant. That's right, whether you spend $15 at McDonalds or Grange, you can get $5 off at IMAX through Sept. 23. To take advantage of this silver screen special, tickets must be purchased within 7 days of the restaurant receipt. Not valid for previously purchased tickets.

Questions? Call IMAX at (916) 443-4629.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

That's right, the food and wine feast known as Taste of Lodi is coming Sept. 25 - 26, and we've got some literal scoop about the event. There will be an ice cream wine tasting as part of the event, featuring frozen confections with wine flavors. That'll be a nice way to cool down, considering it's been so hot in years' past that it feels like Taste of Sweat out there.

Here's what else is planned: a port/cigar/chocolate pavilion, wine seminars and an art gallery. Oh, and that's not to mention more than 40 wineries that will be pouring at the event.

It's all going down at Wine & Roses (2505 West Turner Rd., Lodi). Tickets cost $40 in advance, $50 at the door and $25 for designated drivers. For more information: www.tasteoflodi.com.

David English, former executive chef at Ella Dining Room and Bar, opens The Press today at 4 p.m. at 18th and Capitol. The restaurant will occupy the former space of Dragonfly. With the Press, English has crafted a menu that's inspired by the Mediterranean and emphasizes fresh seasonal ingredients.

The Press will serve tapas and drinks until 5 p.m., when full dinner service will kick in. For now, the Press will be open from Tuesday through Saturday - though brunch may be coming soon.

"We want to keep it very casual and and a very approachable neighborhood place," said English. "If you just want to grab some house wine and tapas, that's great. If you want a full meal, that's great. We'll cater to how much time and money you want to spend."

Here's a sneak peek at some of the Press' menu items:

Appetizers
Summer white corn soup
Crispy Pork Belly, Peaches, Almonds and Balsamic
Ceviche of Shrimp, Scallop, Bass and Calamari

Pasta
Potato Gnocchi with prosciutto, Parmesan cream sauce and broccolo rabe
Mushroom and Ricotta Ravioli with corn leaks and dill
Vegetarian Fettuccine

Entrees
Pan seared king salmon, roasted cauliflower and tzatziki
Braised beef short rib, mashed potato and red wine sauce
Grilled hangar steak with potato gratin and salsa verde
Grilled mahi
Risotto with summer zucchini

I scream, you scream, we all scream for ... ice cream making classes from Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates! Ginger herself will teach the class on Saturday at the L Street Lofts (1818 L St., Sacramento), and you'll get the proverbial scoop on making ice cream, sorbet and other frozen desserts. The syllabus for this sweet sounding class goes something like this:

Classic Vanilla Bean Ice Cream - Tahitian vanilla beans in a traditional custard ice cream

Baked Alaska - Chocolate cocoa nib ice cream and white coffee ice cream

Strawberry Sorbet
- Farm fresh strawberries in a refreshing sorbet

Homemade Ice Cream Sandwich - Gingersnap cookies with lemon ice cream

Plus ... a bonus chocolate tasting

The classes cost $35, and will run from 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. - 4:30 p.m. For more information: (916) 706-1738 or www.gingerelizabeth.com.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

The first phase of a renovation that will double the capacity of Enotria Cafe and Wine Bar (1431 Del Paso Blvd., Sacramento) has been completed. That's the good news. The downside is that the restaurant will close temporarily following dinner service on Saturday. Plans originally called for Enotria to remain open during the renovation, but interior work and construction on Enotria's new wine bar have instead called for a closure.

Look for Enotria's new wine bar and renovated courtyard to be open by mid-September. The final phase of this $1.5 million project, which will include a remodeling of the main dining room, is expected to be finished by Dec.1. Meanwhile, look for wine discounts and complimentary appetizers until Saturday. For more information: www.enotria.com.

Call The Bee's Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

If you're looking for the scoop on area wineries, the Bee's SacWineRegion is always the place to start. The Yolo County Board of Supervisors and the Department of Agriculture have now got in the act, with an online listing of Yolo County wineries and tasting rooms. You'll also find a listing of varietals grown in the Yolo area and beyond.

A press release about all this instructs Web surfers to visit www.yolocounty.org and then go to Government > Departments > Agriculture and Weights & Measures to find the link.

Or, you can just go directly to Yolo County wineries by clicking here. You're welcome, Yolo County!

After a 15 year run in Auburn, the owners of Le Bilig Kitchen (11750 Atwood Rd., Auburn) have announced the restaurant will shut down following dinner service on July 31. Owners Marc and Monica Deconinck said in an e-mail that the two were originally planning to take a year-long sabbatical in France and eventually sell the restaurant. Those plans were accelerated on July 9 when their landlord said she no longer wanted a restaurant in the building.

"It was a shock and disappointment after 15 plus years," said the Deconincks in a statement.

The Deconincks plan to hold cooking classes and dinners in August at their home on Bell Rd. For more information: (530) 888-1491 or www.lebiligkitchen.com.

After a tough season for local wine grape growers, a little divine intervention couldn't hurt. Drop by the Old Sugar Mill (35265 Willow Ave., Clarksburg) on Aug. 19 for Clarksburg's "Blessing of the Grapes." This traditional kick-off for the annual wine grape harvest has been going for three decades in Lodi, but will be held for the second time in Clarksburg. The idea is to give thanks and pause for reflection before the heavy-duty workload of grape harvest starts. Father Dan Madigan of St. Joseph's Church will lead the blessing, and look for wine tasting and food to be offered at the Old Sugar Mill following the ceremonies. The event runs from 10 a.m. to noon, with the blessing scheduled for 11 a.m. For more information, visit the Old Sugar Mill's web site.

Along with chomping on some python and getting a preview of new State Fair foods this week, I got some scoop on the 2011 edition of Sacramento Beer Week. Dan Scott, the executive director of Sacramento Beer Week, said to mark your calendars for Feb. 27 - March 6 in 2011. Scott, who was previewing State Fair snacks for the Sac Rag blog, said that plans also call for a brewfest at Cal Expo on March 5.

The debut of Sacramento Beer Week this past February turned out to be a sudsy success. The inaugural event at the Colonial Theatre drew about 400 beer lovers, while many related Beer Week events around the area were sold out or standing room only.

Check Sacramento Beer Week's web site as time goes along for more updates.

Happy Bastille Day to all the Francophiles out there ... it's the French holiday that commemorates the storming of the Bastille, and what better to celebrate this event than a waiters' race that starts at 6 p.m. tonight. Dozens of servers will gather at Le Petit Paris (1221 19th St., Sacramento) and do their best not to spill a bottle of wine and glasses on a tray as they speedwalk to L Wine Lounge (1801 L St., Sacramento). We're hearing that the streets will be blocked off as the servers race toward the finish line, and the race itself isn't expected to take more than 10 mins. or so.

Which waiter will reign supreme? Check tomorrow's Bee for my story about all the thrills and spills from this race.

AOC_FairFood_042w.JPG

Looking to channel your inner Anthony Bourdain? The California State Fair has you covered this year. And no, we're not talking about cooking something straight from the petting zoo. How about deep fried scorpions covered in chocolate, or grilled python kabobs?

I got a chance to preview some of the new State Fair foods, but unfortunately the scorpions and other insects that Jungle George's stand will be cooking up hadn't arrived yet. And yes, I was ready to try these for educational purposes. But here are some other goodies and curiosities I chowed on:

Python kabobs, frog and alligator from Jungle George (pictured above): That's right, python tastes like chicken - make that very, very chewy chicken. But the seasoning was good enough, with a mix of lemon pepper, Worchestire Sauce, liquid smoke, and Old Bay seasoning mix. The alligator's texture was less chewy than the python, but that 'gator had a slightly swampy aftertaste. The fishy flavor on the frog was just a little too strong for these taste buds, but walking around the midway with that grilled amphibian on a stick will certainly garner some looks.

Chocolate covered bacon from Fire and Ice: Order this item and you'll get five pieces of chocolate covered bacon in a Chinese to-go box. Mmmm, just like grandma used to make. OK, maybe not, but this sweet and salty snack was pretty good. You're getting more chunky chocolate than pig meat in each bite, though the bacon flavor gets more pronounced as you swallow. This mix of sweet, savory and salty flavors will still do you right. Just apologize to your arteries in advance.

"Giant" Deep-fried Twinkie and deep-fried Moon Pie from Sweet Cheeks:
Speaking of stuff that's just bad for you - but tastes oh so good - the "giant" deep-fried Twinkie is three fried Twinkies garnished with powdered sugar and chocolate. My inner eight-year-old jumped in a sugar high joy, but my current day self knows I need to spend some extra time at the gym tonight as penance. Same went for the deep-fried Moon Pie, a first at the State Fair. This item felt a little oily around the edges but all that marshmallow filling and chocolate will keep your sweet tooth satisfied for a week. Just don't ride the Tilt-A-Whirl after eating one.

Check Wednesday's Bee for more news about the State Fair's opening day and the move to discount food by 25 percent this year.

Gallery: Food vendors prepare for fair with new treats and lower prices

Food vendors at the California State Fair are required to pass a number of health inspections, and your favorite food on a stick will get even closer scrutiny this year. The Sacramento County Environmental Management Department will be inspecting for trans fats as the State Fair begins its run Wednesday through Aug. 1. Since Jan. 1, food vendors are banned from using and serving items containing artificial trans fats. What might this mean for the deep-fried Twinkies out there? We'll soon find out as the county begins conducting its trans fat inspections at the State Fair on Tuesday.

In other fair food news, if you haven't heard by now, food at this year's Califiornia State Fair has been discounted 25 percent. Could this strategy help boost sagging fair attendance? I'll be reporting on this for Wednesday's paper and give the scoop on some new foods coming to the fair. (Think: fried scorpions and chocolate covered bacon). Bon appetit!

The owners of L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen (1801 L St., Sacramento) are teeing off into a new business partnership with plans to franchise a new restaurant concept and create cookbooks. Tony Glover, publisher of Golf & Lifestyle magazine, has joined Marcus and Kolea Marquez as the ownership team behind L Wine Lounge.

Glover, who founded LuxLife magazine, plans to use his publishing expertise to help launch cookbooks from L Wine Lounge chef Ame Harrington and mixologist Chris Tucker. Glover, who once tended bar at Bandera, is also working with the Marquez's to launch an organic burrito chain called Fatso's. They're already scouting out a Sacramento location for Fatso's, with plans to expand into the bay area.

Glover will meanwhile focus on L Wine Lounge's business operations and new lunch program, while the Marquez's will concentrate on evening service, catering and other factors related to food and wine.

"In this economy you need to find creative ways to partner and survive," said Glover.

Sacramento area farmers are an especially savvy bunch when it comes to marketing to local consumers. That was among the findings in a recent study by Shermain Hardesty, a Cooperative Extension economist in the UC Davis Department of Agricultural and Resource Economics. Her research found that 14 percent of Sacramento-area farms marketed directly to consumers, compared to just nine percent of farmers nationally.

Hardesty was part of a research team that studied how locally grown food is supplied to consumers around the country. Other areas studied included Oregon, Minnesota, New York and Washington D.C. The study was The study funded by the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Economic Research Service.

Hardesty's research included interviews with farmers, supermarkets and produce distributors.

"We were especially interested to find that, even after deducting the added costs of transportation, distribution and selling at the farmers market or other point of sale, the farmers are still able to net a greater share of retail prices in local food supply chains than they would had they used conventional marketing chains," said Hardesty in a statement.


Organizers are dubbing the event "the ultimate gourmet wine & food shopping experience," but you can just call it The Wine Cheese & Bread Faire. This fancy food extravaganza will be held on Aug. 7 - 8 at the Old Sugar Mill in Clarksburg (35265 Willow Avenue; Clarksburg). Here's what you'll find: cheesemakers from the California Cheese Guild, Panera bread, olive oils, nuts, coffee, spices and much more. Oh, and there will be plenty of wine from such producers as Heringer Estates, Todd Taylor Wines, Carvalho Family Wines and other producers with tasting rooms at the Old Sugar Mill.

The price? $15, and includes a wine glass and entrance to classes. The event runs 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. each day. For more info.: 530-520-6706.

Which wines ruled at this year's California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition? Those results were just announced here at Grape & Gourmet in an awards ceremony, and here they are:

Best of Show Red
Red Rock Winery 2008 Malbec ($12)
(see, it pays to join or virtual tasting ;)

Best of Show White
Cypress Vineyards 2009 Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($10)

Best Value
Sterling 2008 Meritage ($9.99)

Best of Show Sweet

R.A. Harrison Family Cellars 2007 Nobility ($75)

Golden Winery
Robert Hall Winery

For a complete database of winning wines from this year's State Fair, click here.

OK, hungry folks, I've got some scoop on menu changes coming to a couple of local eateries. First the good news:

A lunch program will start Tuesday at L Wine Lounge (1801 L St., Sacramento; 916-443-6970). Look for such items as grilled hanger steak sandwich with arugula, served with pommes frites ($8), and a fried chicken with heirloom tomato and cabage slaw ($8). Lunch will be served from 11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m. from Tuesday through Friday.

Now for some mixed news, for fans of breakfast that is:

Breakfast has been modified at One Speed (4818 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento; 916-706-1748). Instead of opening at 9 a.m. on weekends for breakfast, starting Saturday One Speed will open at 11 a.m. with a brunch-styled menu. Such breakfast options as the Belgian waffles will remain, but other morning foods are being phased out. A new selection of specials are also being planned.

In the streets of France, and now around around the world, you'll find waiters speedwalking to a finish line while trying not to spill their trays of wine. It's a traditional waiters' race, which is often held to celebrate Bastille Day, and now it's coming to midtown Sacramento. On July 14 starting at 6 p.m., local servers will be racing with a wine bottle and glasses on a tray from Le Petit Paris boutique (19th and Capitol, Sacramento) to the courtyard behind L Wine Lounge (1801 L St., Sacramento).

The event is held in cities all around the world, and has attracted up to 3,000 spectators in Portland. So, Rob Turner of Sactown Magazine posed the question in his latest issue, "Why Not Here?" And now we're happy to say this event is happening. We'll keep you posted with more info., including prizes and names of competitors. Stay tuned - and don't spill your drink!

Two words for last night's online tasting: good times! Or, perhaps I should say: tough judges! The opinions flowed fast and occasionally fierce as three wines were tasted here yesterday as a virtual community. You can scroll down a little and see a replay of the chat, which attracted wine drinkers from the area and even a party from the Sidegate Homewine Group. We sipped, we swirled, we tapped away on our keyboards ...

So how did we rate the wines as a group?

Bogle 2008 Riesling
: The group overall found this wine pleasant enough, with good flavors of stone fruits and apple, but some preferred a style that wasn't so sweet. I found a lot of sweet pineapple flavors as the wine warmed, but served on the colder side was fairly refreshing with its fruity taste.

Gnarly 2008 California Cabernet Sauvignon
: The group basically wondered, "What the heck were the State Fair wine judges thinking?" when they awarded this wine 93 points. Thin, one-dimensional and a lackluster finish
this wine was even "banished to hell" by one taster. Blech ...

Red Rock 2008 Malbec: Now we're talking. The group enjoyed this wine for its complexity, mouthfeel and ability to be paired with a variety of foods. But there was one problem: numerous bottles of this purchased by tasters seemed to be corked. Without the bottle flaws, this malbec was definitely a winner.

In the end, we all had fun tasting these wines and evaluating them on our own. Because no matter what the State Fair judges say - especially in terms of the Gnarly Head cabernet - the only wine judge who really matters is yourself.

Look for another virtual tasting coming soon!

That's right, get your stemware and a dump bucket if need be ... in just a couple hours - 6 p.m., that is - I'll be hosting the Bee's first ever virtual wine tasting. Set your browser to www.sacbee.com/appetizers or you can send your tasting notes via Twitter to #beewine.

Here are the three wines we'll be tasting as a virtual community. I've picked up these bottles at various spots, but BevMo on Arden Way should carry them all:

2008 Bogle Riesling
Judges score: 98 points - double gold medal
Price: $9
.
2008 Red Rock Malbec
Judges score: 98 points - double gold medal
Price: $12

2008 Gnarly Head California Cabernet Sauvignon
Judges score: 93 points - silver medal
Price: $10.99

See you all at 6 p.m.!

While we're getting our stemware ready for Wednesday's virtual wine tasting, I'm happy to announce some notable wine folks who will be in the mix and sharing their tasting notes. And they will be:

Mike Dunne,
the Bee's former food and wine editor and current author of the blog "A Year in Wine"

Michael Chandler, wine director for The Market at Pavilions; many of you may remember Michael from his longtime stint as a sommelier and manager at Enotria.

Leon Moore,
a recently certified sommelier who can be found serving at Red Lotus when he's not teaching music or organizing tastings; he's a cool young guy with a serious palate.

So here's the drill: log on to www.sacbee.com/appetizers at 6 p.m. Wednesday, and we'll taste three bottles together as an online community.

2008 Bogle Riesling

Judges score: 98 points - double gold medal
Price: $9
Where to find it: Available widely at area grocery stores and the winery itself (www.boglewinery.com).

2008 Red Rock Malbec
Judges score: 98 points - double gold medal
Price: $12
Where to find it: Go to Red Rock's web site for a location near you.

2008 Gnarly Head California Cabernet Sauvignon
Judges score: 93 points - silver medal
Price: $10.99
Where to find it: Available widely at local grocery stores and bottle shops.

What to do with the K St. Mall? That's the challenge that local developers are figuring in a series of proposed redevelopments of this downtown mall, but one idea should sound extra tasty for local foodies. Rubicon Partners, the renovation team behind the Citizen Hotel at 10th and J streets, seeks to create Boqueria California. The vision calls for a farmers market, student and middle income housing, a new home for the California Department of Food and Agriculture and lots of food options that highlight the Sacramento region's bounty. Think of it as Sacramento's version of Ferry Plaza in San Francisco.

The developers are also seeking input on the project, and are hosting a public forum tonight at the Citizen Hotel (926 J St. Sacramento). The event starts at 5:30 p.m. and will be held on the 7th floor terrace. Chef Michael Tuohy will co-host the forum, and hopes for plenty of public input and suggestions.

For more information, visit the Boqueria's web site.

The wine scene in El Dorado Hills just took a dip, as Wine Konnection will close for good following service on Saturday night. In an e-mail, the owners called the closure "another casualty to the recession despite valiant efforts the past 9 months to ignite business."

Wine Konnection (4364 Town Center Blvd., El Dorado Hills) emphasized California's wineries, with a cellar that boasted bottles of Ridge Monte Bello from the early 1990s at $300 each and such labels as Beringer Private Reserve and BV Georges de Latour from the vaunted 1997 vintage. Wine Konnection's champagne line-up also included some stars, inlcuding a 1996 Krug "Clos du Mesnil" for a cool $1,399. Wines by the glass ranged from $6.75 to $20, and its food program garnered a favorable review by the Bee's Blair Anthony Robertson.

For the final day of business, look for wine deals and closeout specials. Information: (916) 941-1555.

June 25, 2010
Free Slurpee on July 11

Blame it on my sweet tooth, but I am a sucker for Slurpees. It's my feel-good drink of the summer as the weather heats up, and lucky for me there's a 7-11 near my house. You'll find me starting with a big blast of cherry Slurpee and then topping it off with Coke flavor and reaching for a big ol' straw. Do you feel me on this?

So I am happy to share this news: 7-11 is offering free Slurpees all day on July 11. God bless America!

Just pop into your local 7-11 on the day of 7/11 and you'll get a free 7.11 ounce cup of Slurpee. Yes, that's a lot of numerology, but it all adds up to icy cold goodness in my book. See you there ...

Clarksburg Wine Company, a custom crush facility in the Sacramento Delta, has announced an ownership change. John Carvalho Jr. of Carvalho Family Wines, who doubled as the managing director of Clarksburg Wine Company, has stepped aside from Clarksburg Wine Company. Majority interest in the facility has been purchased by an investment group led by John Beckman. His group also owns the Old Sugar Mill, a Clarksburg wine tourism attraction that hosts tasting rooms for Todd Taylor Wines, Heringer Estates, Carvalho Family Winery and three other wineries.

"Within the wine industry it has been a well-kept secret for decades that the vineyards of the Clarksburg appellation are the source of some of the highest quality and highest value fruit in California," said Beckman in a statement. "The same cooling bay breezes that influence the southern Sonoma and Napa regions moderate the temperatures in the Clarksburg region."

For more information: www.clarksburgwineco.com

Alrighty, if you haven't heard yet, I'm hosting an online wine tasting at 6 p.m. on June 30. You'll be able to join the fun via Twitter, Facebook and through www.sacbee.com, and we'll have more details soon. Let's first get to the wines we'll taste.

I scoured through our database of winning wines from the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition, and picked three bottles that scored big, are affordable and can be found easily around the Sacramento area. So get your stemware ready and prepare to taste these three wines as a community:

2008 Bogle Riesling
Judges score: 98 points - double gold medal
Price: $9
Where to find it: Available widely at area grocery stores and the winery itself (www.boglewinery.com).

2008 Red Rock Malbec
Judges score: 98 points - double gold medal
Price: $12
Where to find it: Go to Red Rock's web site for a location near you.

2008 Gnarly Head California Cabernet Sauvignon

Judges score: 93 points - silver medal
Price: $10.99
Where to find it: Available widely at local grocery stores and bottle shops.

It'll soon be time for you to be the judge. I've also got some notable local wine personalities to join this virtual tasting, so stay tuned for more details. Cheers!


Eight months and 150 recipes later, Melody Elliott-Koontz and her "Sundays With Marlena Crew" have finished their ambitious Jewish cooking project. As I reported in December, Elliott-Koontz wanted to get in touch with her Jewish heritage by tackling each recipe in "Jewish Cooking" by Marlena Spieler. She was joined in the endeavor by two local food bloggers - Eileen Makishima Thornton and Shankari Easwaran - and it was soon like "Julie & Julia" with a Jewish twist.

Well it all wound down last week, after Elliott-Koontz finished a cheesecake recipe. So what's next on her menu? A big break.

"It's kind of bittersweet really," said Elliott-Koontz. "I'm not wanting to cook through another book right away, but I met some of the coolest people doing this. I began this project for personal reasons and learned that Jewish food isn't just matzo balls and latkes. It can be very elegant. I'm very grateful I had this opportunity and had so much fun doing it. It was just a lot of work."

We'll be keeping tabs on Elliott-Koontz through her "Cooking Schmooking" blog. And congrats again to the "Sundays With Marlena" gang!

Just what Elk Grove needs: another chain restaurant, right? But hey, if love to eat oodles of noodles in the suburbs then you'll be stoked. Noodles & Company is opening an Elk Grove location in August at 7405 Laguna Blvd. Look for noodles of all shapes and sizes on the menu, from Wisconsin Mac & Cheese ®, and veggie-filled Chinese Chop Salad to sweet and spicy Japanese Pan Noodles ®. Noodles & Company operates 235 restaurants in 18 states, but only one in the greater Sacramento area; look for it at the Fountains in Roseville. The exact opening date for this Elk Grove location has yet to be firmed up, but we'll pass that along when we find out.

We've got the database of winners from the California State Fair Wine Competition and ready to sample some of them. So why not make this a shared experience?

Here's the plan: I'm going to select three wines, which will be announced next Wednesday on this "Appetizers" blog, and we'll taste them virtually as a group at 6 p.m. on June 30. We'll have it set up so you can share your tasting notes and thoughts live via Twitter, Facebook or sacbee.com.

I'll be picking wines that are both affordable, easy to find locally and also scored well at the State Fair. Also plan on some notable food and wine personalities to join this virtual tasting. More info. coming soon ... salud!

Want to know which wineries scored gold, or any other medal at the 2010 California State Fair Wine Competition? Well surf on over to our winners database at SacWineRegion. You can search by winery, varietal, area, type of award and even "best of class" honors. Pretty nifty ...

But to find out which wines won the five "best of show" awards, you'll have to wait until July 7 at the food and wine extravaganza known as Grape & Gourmet.

Until then, may you find some good sipping ideas via the database.

We've seen a lot of wines released by musicians over the years - Bob Dylan, Jerry Garcia, Maynard James Keenan from Tool, Luis Miguel. But here's a celebrity wine that'll make you think, "Holy hair metal!"

The hard rock band Whitesnake, known for such rock hits as "Here I Go Again" and its video vixen Tawny Kitaen writhing, is about to release a signature wine. Witness the 2008 Whitesnake Russian River Valley Zinfandel, which will begin shipping on July 1. The wine's made by De La Montanya Winery & Vineyards of Healdsburg, and can be purchased here for $29.95 per bottle.

Stay tuned for tasting notes. But when might be the best time to savor this wine? Like the Whitesnake song says, "In the still of the night!" \m/

Were you hoping to book a reservation at the Hidden Kitchen? Hate to break it to you, but this underground dinner party at the Land Park home of Dennis and Mary Kercher - along with demonstration dinners at Whole Foods - has officially closed down.

The Hidden Kitchen had shut down before, after a neighbor snitched on the Kerchers and the health department came knocking. But this time, the Hidden Kitchen is shutting down on a somewhat happier note.

"The good news is that after one year of unemployment I'm back to work at Kodak," said Dennis Kercher, in an e-mail blast to local foodies. "That is very good for my mental health, our family and our financial well being...When we started out over 4 years ago we didn't really know where Hidden Kitchen was going to lead us. We wanted to do something different. We had a vision where we would open our home to people that enjoyed meeting strangers, sitting at a common table and sharing stories and camaraderie over great food and wine."

Mary Kercher plans to keep pursuing her artistic endeavors, while Dennis will be busy working and promises that he has "a little side project" up his sleeve.

Best wishes to the Kerchers, and many around Sacramento will savor those Hidden Kitchen memories.

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It's the dish that's either considered a delicacy, or just plain nasty. We're talking about bone marrow, which has been eaten for ages but only recently become popular at Sacramento restaurants. That was the focus on my bone marrow story in Wednesday's Food & Wine section. We'd originally planned to run a couple of bone marrow recipes with the story, but space got tight and you know how that goes.

So, let's run a bone marrow recipe here. This one comes courtesy of "Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, with Recipes," by Jennifer McLagan. Bon apetit!

MARROW BONE PREPARATION
Marrow bones must be soaked for 12 to 24 hours in salted water to remove the blood. Place the bones in a large dish of ice water to cover, add 2 tablespoons of coarse sea salt, and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water 4 to 6 times and adding 2 more tablespoons of salt to the water each time.

ROASTED MARROW BONES

Serves 4 as an appetizer

1 lemon
1/2 cup / 11/2 ounces / 40 g fine fresh bread crumbs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon dried mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 veal or beef marrow bones, each about 8 inches / 20 cm, split in half lengthwise and presoaked

Preheat the oven to 425°F / 220°C.

Finely grate the zest from the lemon and combine it in a bowl with the bread crumbs, parsley, and mustard. Squeeze 2 tablespoons of juice from the lemon. Add the juice to the bread crumb mixture with lots of pepper and the salt. The bread crumbs should just hold together when squeezed; if not, add a little more lemon juice.

Drain the marrow bones and pat dry.

Place the bones cut side up in a roasting pan and top evenly with the bread crumb mixture. Roast until the marrow is warm in the center, 15 to 25 minutes. To test, insert a metal skewer into the center of the marrow and touch it to your wrist to see if it is hot. There should be no resistance when the skewer is inserted, and a little of the marrow should have melted and started to leak from the bones. Serve the marrow bones hot.

Blue Cue, a longtime stape of the Paragary Restaurant Group, has racked up some new owners. Randy Paragary recently sold the midtown pool hall and watering hole to Cody DellaBitta and Dominic Vella, and the two plan to tweak Blue Cue's concept. They're looking to emphasize Blue Cue as more of a sports bar, with Sunday breakfast specials during football season and lots of food/drink deals when sports are broadcast.

Blue Cue opened in 1997 on 28th and J streets, and its new owners took over the business less than two weeks ago. Blue Cue's web site is still under construction, but check back soon for more info. The good news for pool sharks: the pool tables won't be going anywhere.

"People love them and they're a great draw," said DellaBitta. "We still want people to come out more for sports. We want to change some things up and change the menu, but we're aiming for a relaxed place to hang out."

Last time we checked in with Shankari Easwaran, the local food blogger and cooking instructor was learning how to make matzo ball soup with the "Sundays With Marlena" crew. They're nearing completion of this Jewish cooking project, but in the meantime, Easwaran continues to lead cooking classes around the area. Learn how to make dosas, an Indian style crepe, on Monday at Whole Foods (4315 Arden Way, Sacramento; 916-488-2800). The bonus: Easwaran's mother, Amma, will be a guest of honor, and help demonstrate the finer points of this dish made from rice and lentils, plus a potato filling. The class runs from 6 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. and costs $45.

The wine judging season keeps rolling along, so Saturday morning meant a trip to judge at the Amador County Fair commercial wine competition. This year's event featured 465 wines from the Sierra Foothills, and my three-person panel tasted about 60 of them. Nearly half of the wines on our panel were cabernet sauvignon, a varietal that tends to be overshadowed in gold country over zinfandel, Cal-Ital and Rhone varietals. We still awarded our only double-gold of the day to Young's Vineyard 2008 Shenandoah Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, with high marks for its fresh fruit flavors, balance and depth.

But when all the judging had finished, one wine rose to the top. Best of show honors went to Latcham Vineyards 2007 Fair Play Special Reserve Cabernet Franc, a wine that also won "best red" on Saturday. I didn't get to taste this wine, but fellow judge and former colleague Mike Dunne noted on his "Year in Wine" blog that it "(captured) the varietal's minty herbalness and plummy fruitiness, all framed handsomely with vanillin and chocolate overtones."

Sounds like a winner to us. And like cabernet sauvignon, it was interesting to see that cabernet franc triumphed in an area where Bordeaux varietals aren't usually considered the Sierra Foothills' strong suit.

Here's a list of more "best of show" winners. Look for a full awards tally coming soon ...


Best Amador Rhone

Cooper Vineyards 07 Estate Petit Sirah

Best Amador Red Zinfandel
Dillian Wines 08 Hang Tree Zinfandel

Best Amador Italian
Cooper Vineyards 09 Pinot Grigio

Best Sauvignon Blanc
Sierra Vista Winery 09 Sauvignon Blanc

Best White
Young's Vineyard 09 White Rhone Blend

Best Desert Wine
Renwood Winery 09 Orange Muscat

Best Rose

Hatcher Winery 09 Grenache Rose

On Wednesday we brought you the story of Jeff Wichmann, who runs American Bottle Auctions from his midtown Sacramento office. His 50th bottle auction has wrapped up, and Wichmann called to relay the results. The auction netted $375,000, a record for Wichmann's company, with one bottle alone selling for $64,000. That antique bottle was a "Favorite Bitters" from Powell & Stutenroth, which was highly prized for its rarity and overall condition.

"This is the most successful auction we've had," said Wichmann. "What that tells me is the bottle market is strong and people are willing to fork out big bucks for bottles. The auctions just seem to be getting better and better."

Wichmann plans to start his 51st bottle auction in August. In the meantime, he's fielding calls from folks who want to have their bottles appraised and possibly included in the next auction. If you have a bottle that you think is worth big $$$, contact Wichmann at (800) 806-7722 or American Bottle Auctions.

Pardon my purple looking teeth, but just got back from a morning of guest judging at the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. I sat on a panel that tasted cabernet sauvignon from the 2007 vintage, with a total of 53 samples tasted before lunch. Out of those flights, I think our panel only awarded four gold medals, but gave plenty of silver medals to note solid efforts and a fair share of bronze medals, too. And yes, there were some beastly wines in the bunch as well. Thank goodness those tended to be the exception rather than the rule.

So after all this sniffing and sipping, when will the results be announced? That'll go down July 7 at Grape & Gourmet, held at the Sacramento Convention Center. Tickets are $55, which includes general admission to the State Fair. (Hint: try and show up early to get your $$$'s worth. Too many food vendors ran out early last year, which we thought was pretty lame considering the price of Grape & Gourmet. We'll see how this shakes up this time around ...)

Back at Cal Expo, judging wraps up Friday after three days of considering some 2,700 wines from over 600 California wineries. 150 volunteers are helping with everything from pouring wine, to tabulating scores and replenishing stemware.

"Everything's been going smooth," said G. M. "Pooch" Pucilowski, the competition's chief judge. "All of this is for both the consumer and the winery. We're going to come out of this with some wines that you'll want through this rigorous judging. A medal is a way of saying, 'The least you can do is try the wine.'"

For more information: www.thebestcaliforniawine.com

Pardon my purple looking teeth, but just got back from a morning of guest judging at the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. I sat on a panel that tasted cabernet sauvignon from the 2007 vintage, with a total of 53 samples tasted before lunch. Out of those flights, I think our panel only awarded four gold medals, but gave plenty of silver medals to note solid efforts and a fair share of bronze medals, too. And yes, there were some beastly wines in the bunch as well. Thank goodness those tended to be the exception rather than the rule.

So after all this sniffing and sipping, when will the results be announced? That'll go down July 7 at Grape & Gourmet, held at the Sacramento Convention Center. Tickets are $55, which includes general admission to the State Fair. (Hint: try and show up early to get your $$$'s worth. Too many food vendors ran out early last year, which we thought was pretty lame considering the price of Grape & Gourmet. We'll see how this shakes up this time around ...)

Back at Cal Expo, judging wraps up Friday after three days of considering some 2,700 wines from over 600 California wineries. 150 volunteers are helping with everything from pouring wine, to tabulating scores and replenishing stemware.

"Everything's been going smooth," said G. M. "Pooch" Pucilowski, the competition's chief judge. "All of this is for both the consumer and the winery. We're going to come out of this with some wines that you'll want through this rigorous judging. A medal is a way of saying, 'The least you can do is try the wine.'"

For more information: www.thebestcaliforniawine.com

Red Lotus, the latest venture from Kru restaurateur Billy Ngo, opened quietly in April at 28th and J streets. Since then, Ngo and his crew have been fine tuning the menu and creating its cocktail program with help from Erick Castro (former Zocalo mixologist and co-founder of Midtown Cocktail Week). It's all been pretty low key at Red Lotus (2716 J St., Sacramento), but that's about to change. Red Lotus is throwing a grand opening bash on June 17, that'll include a Dim Sum-styled feast. More details are coming soon, but we do know the party will start at 6 p.m.

For more information: (916) 231-0961.

Many of you may remember Donal Smith, the former Corti Brothers wine merchant who was also so affable when recommending the best bottle to go with dinner or purchase as a gift. Smith retired from Corti Brothers last year, and now works as a wine consultant and hosts food and wine trips. Such is the case with an upcoming tour of New York's Finger Lakes wine region, which is the nation's second largest wine growing wine region.The cool climate helps produce some exceptional rieslings and the area is becoming an increasingly popular destination for wine tourists looking for a taste of something new.

Smith's tour of the Finger Lakes runs from Sept. 18 - 25, and includes a whole lot of tasting and eating. The itinerary features an excursion to the New York Wine & Culinary Center in Canandaigua, a jaunt to Niagra Falls and a tour of Seneca Falls.

Interested in learning more? Visit this page or email Donal directly.

Wednesday qualified as the best day of work since ... well, pretty much ever. The work day required a visit to the French Laundry, the Yountville restaurant founded by Thomas Keller that's considered one of the world's great gastronomical experiences. Look for a story in the next couple weeks about one of the restaurant's connections to the Sacramento area.

Before dinner service, the staff bid farewell and had cake in honor of sommelier Anani Lawson. Wednesday marked his last shift at the restaurant, and plans to travel in the near future and work on wine consulting. He'll also be visiting Sacramento area on July 24 for "Epicure & Discoveries in Wine II," his second event with local boutique caterer Pajo Bruich. Judging by their first event, expect an evening of impeccably executed courses with choice wine pairings. The price isn't cheap - $150 per person - but still about $100 less than dinner at French Laundry. For more information: www.pajoscatering.com.

Back at the French Laundry, I felt some 916 (and 530) pride when reading their recent menus. One course featured "Sacramento Delta Asparagus" and the rice paired with the "Grilled Sirloin of Kuroge Beef From Shiga" was sourced from a producer near Winters. The coffee served at the meal's end came from a Grass Valley roaster, but didn't catch the name. Some of their caviar also comes from white sturgeon that was harvested in the Sacramento River.

You can read more about all this in a couple weeks ... stay tuned, and bon appetit.

Mmmmm, pie ... and with that, here's some info. about two specials that are about to start at your friendly neighborhood Marie Callender's. From Friday through June 30, you can get a whole pie for $6.99. Note that this deal is good for pies that normally cost between $10.49 - $15.49. There's also a combo meal deal that includes a specialty hamburger, fries and - of course - a slice of pie for $8.99. What a bargain ...

For more info.: www.mariecallenders.com

I penned a story last month about Sacramento being a hotbed for cooking contest winners. There's Evelyn Henderson of Roseville, who was a category winner and appeared on "Oprah" as a finalist in the Pillsbury Bake-Off; Carolyn Kumpe of El Dorado has won a number of cooking contests after finding herself unemployed, and Joni Hilton of Rocklin has won 70 contests over the past 15 years.

Trisha Moore of Carmichael can now be counted in the local winners' circle. She recently won thrid place in the Wisconsin Potato Recipe Contest. The prize package wasn't much - just a $50 gift card for the grocer of her choice. But she still gets some nice bragging rights for her 'Potato Skins on the BBQ" recipe. Check out the link and sample it for yourself.

Congratulations, Trisha ...

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The Asian Citrus Psyllid (that nasty looking thing pictured above) has already wrecked Florida's citrus industry, and California could be next. The California Citrus Research Board is asking the public to be on the lookout for this tiny bug which feeds on citrus leaves and stems.

The bug itself is just about one-eighth-inch long, but are carriers of a bacterial disease called Huanglongbing. Once infected, citrus trees risk discoloration of leaves or will die altogether. The Asian Citrus Psyllid has been detected in southern California and Texas, and could just be a matter of time before they reach central and northern California's citrus country.

So, what to look for?

"The psyllid looks like a tiny kind of black thorn, and usually found on the underside of leaves," said Ted Batkin, president of the California Citrus Research Board. "The pest likes to feed at a 45 degree angle. So if you turn a leaf over and see all these black spots that look like thorns, call your county agricultural commissioner."

Batkin estimates that Florida's lost 20 percent of its citrus acreage since the pest was detected. California contains some 300,000 acres of commercial citrus groves, and a citrus industry worth $1.1 billion. The pest has a tendency to infest urban areas before reaching farm country, and so far 100 acres in southern California have been treated for Asian Citrus Psyllid.

"This is a business threat as well as a homeowner's threat," said Batkin. "What we're trying to do is get ahead of those invasions as they move north."

For more information: www.californiacitrusthreat.org

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Talk to Gopal Kapur of Roseville (pictured above) and you'll hear him preach about healthy meal plans that promote social and environmental awareness - while keeping it tasty at the same time. I wrote a profile of Kapur and his "Family Green Survival" food program, an approach to eating that combined raw and natural foods and occasional days of "survival eating" (consuming between 800 to 1,000 calories, which reflects the intake of poor people around the world). Kapur's recently kicked off a new program called "EatingRightWhenTheBudget'sTight," which provides daily menus and recipes that amount to about $6 a day. Here's a sample:

Breakfast

French Toast, Fruit Syrup ($.75)
1% Milk, 1 Cup ($.18)
Orange Juice, 1 Cup ($.25)

Lunch

Tuna Sandwich ($.90)
1 Banana ($.30)

Dinner

Vegetables, Beans, and Chicken Soup ($1.05)
Beef & Vegetables Stir Fry ($1.52)
Noodles With Peanut Butter ($.26)
1 Orange ($.30)
Walnut Truffles ($.40)

Total: $5.91

Kapur's concocted more recipes for eating on $6 a day. To download them and learn about his other suggested food programs, visit www.familygreensurvival.com (Free membership required for recipe downloads).

That's right, P.F. Chang's is offering a complimentary pour of wine tonight. So here's the deal: If you're dining at 5:18 p.m. today at P.F. Chang's - and you're of legal drinking age, thanks - you'll get a free pour of Vineyard 518. This freebie commemorates a new house wine created for the P.F. Chang's chain by Mendocino's Wattle Creek Winery called Vineyard 518. This custom label features two varietals: sauvignon blanc and a syrah blend which contains small amounts of cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel. Suggested prices are $4.50 for a half glass, $7.50 for a full pour and $15.50 for a half carafe.

"The name was inspired by Chinese numerology and the number 518 means 'I will prosper,'" said Mary Melton, beverage director for P.F. Chang's, in a statement.

And since today is 5/18 on the calendar, "518" also translates to "free pour."

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While the area is awash in Amgen fever, here's something related to sip on. Malibu Family Wines, a producer in the Santa Monica Mountains, has released King of the Mountains Cuvee - a.k.a. the official wine of the Amgen Tour of California. Bottles cost $32 each, with proceeds to benefit Stage 8 of the tour.

The wine's style is something of a Bordeaux-Rhone hybrid, featuring a blend of 65 percent cabernet sauvignon, 20 percent syrah, 10 percent grenache and 5 percent mourvedre. And you can see the estate vineyards that spawned this fruit come Sunday, when Stage 8 of the Amgen Tour winds through the Santa Monica Mountains.

"We're in the backyard of Amgen," said Kevin Bening of Malibu Family Wines. "As the helicopters are floating above, you'll see our vineyards. It's really an amazing stage. They'll be doing four laps with 10,000 feet of vertical climbing."

Look for King of the Mountains Cuvee at www.malibufamilywines.com.

Think of it as Slamson meets Cinco de Mayo. 18th St. between L and Capitol will be turned into "The NBA's Greatest Draft Lottery Party" starting at 4 p.m. Tuesday. Look for street tacos, tamales, wine and other foodstuffs to keep you going while a telecast of the NBA draft lottery is shown on a big screen. Also included in this street styled soiree are appearances from the Sacramento Kings Dancers and cover tunes from Pop Fiction. The cost: free.

Sometimes when I'm sitting here at my desk, clacking away at my keyboard, I pause to think that this Sacramento Bee building at 21st and Q streets was once the Buffalo Brewery. How great it would be if kegs rolled down the aisles when deadlines were done, with tap handles near our reporters' pods. Instead we tend to find our post-work libations nearby at Benny's ... but that's enough gazing in the pint glass for now.

The real reason behind this post is that an online auction is underway for items related to the old Buffalo Brewery. You can bid on such memorabilia as Buffalo Brewing signs, trays and calendars. If you're interested in trying to score some of these antiques, visit www.witherells.com. The auction ends Tuesday, so get those bids ready.

Thanks, and happy beer-thirty.

While we're on a subject related to restaurant etiquette, the interwebs are all abuzz today about this post from the New York Times' Diner's Journal Blog. Financial writer Ron Lieber got kicked out of Restaurant Marc Forgione in New York City. His offense: stepping into the kitchen to tell Chef Forgione to stop yelling at a member of the kitchen staff because it was disrupting diners.

Did Lieber overstep his bounds by walking into the kitchen? Is Forgione due for some anger management therapy? Read and discuss ...

Ran into Adam Pechal, the owner of midtown's Tuli Bistro, and got some scoop that mixes local music and local eating. Tuli Bistro will be vending at the Friday Night Concerts in the Park, which runs Fridays at Cesar Chavez Plaza (10th and J streets), starting in mid to late June. Pechal says he's going to use a trailer set-up to cook and sell some eats near the beer garden. It'll be a simple menu, consisting mainly of pizzas and pulled pork sandwiches, but offers an opportunity to grab a bite without leaving the beer garden. Rock out and have a bite ... \m/

And what's this we're hearing about Pechal opening a new eatery and retail outlet in east Sacramento? Stay tuned for more on that one.

Whether you prefer to pedal fixed gear or on a biycle built for two, there's a fundraiser that mixes cycling with the culinary world on Saturday at Shriner's Childrens Hospital (2425 Stockton Blvd., Sacramento). Look for food from such local eateries as OneSpeed, Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates, Ella, Mulvaney's B&L, and drink from Lange Twins Winery, Rubicon Brewing Co., Bogle Vineyards and much more. Proceeds go to the Shriner's Hospitals for Children, and includes a silent auction. The event runs from 6 p.m. - 9 p.m. Tickers cost $40 in advance, $50 at the door. For a full line-up of vendors and other information: shrinerscyclebration.org.

Who's got the best wine list in the Golden State?

That's what the California Restaurant Association is trying to nail down in its third annual Best California Wine List Competition. Restaurateurs who think their cellar and wine service program can go mano-a-mano with all comers have until July 15 to enter. An entry form can be downloaded at www.calrest.org.

The contest seeks wine programs that are committed to staff education and cellars that show off the diversity of California wine. Awards are given in the following areas: single-location restaurants; restaurants with two to nine locations (annual revenue less than $1 million); restaurants with two to nine locations (annual revenue of $1 million or more); restaurant companies with 10 or more locations.

The Firehouse in Old Sacramento and the Melting Pot, which includes a Sacramento location, were both winners last year.

Look for the winners to be announced later in the summer.

Meanwhile, who do you think has the best wine list in the Sacramento area?

May 5, 2010
Quick tequila picks

The Mexicans fought valiantly against the French at the Battle of Puebla. But hey, we're not here to give a history lesson about the origins of Cinco de Mayo. We're just looking for an excuse to sample some 100% blue agave tequila.

And throughout the Sacramento area, there's plenty of tequilas to sample and shoot. These 80 proof spirits aren't necessarily the kind from those hangovers college days gone by. Quality tequilas demand sipping like a Scotch to savor those complex flavors from agave and oak. Leave the shot glass, lime and salt for another time.

What to sip this Cinco de Mayo? Here are some quality tequilas that can be found around town. Expect to pay between $9 to $13 for a two ounce pour, save for that special bottle from El Tesoro. Salud!

Fortaleza Reposado
: Get a whiff of these wonderful butterscotch aromas. This "reposado" tequila - meaning it's been barrel-aged for more than two months, but less than a year - drinks especially smooth and with rich agave flavors.

Mejor Tequila Blanco
: Mejor Tequila has connections to midtown Sacramento. The company's chief operating officer, Angel Penilla, helps run the company from his home office near 20th and Capitol. The agave comes from the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico and this "blanco" (bottled less than two months after distillation) shows the essence of its agave in an easy-to-sip style.

Herencia Mexicana Tequila Anejo: Technically, this tequila could be classified as "extra anejo" since it's been aged for more than a year in barrel. And after three years of aging, you'll find a tequila that's remarkably balanced between its oak and agave components. Think of it as the aged wine equivalent of tequila.

Tres Agaves Tequila Casa Noble Single Barrel Reposado
: If you drop by Tres Agaves in Roseville for some Cinco de Mayo celebrating, get a taste of its custom reposado tequila. Made in conjunction with Casa Noble, a tasting team from Tres Agaves was sent to Jalisco to taste through barrels of tequila. This lot was the winner, with its combination of earthy and fruity agave flavors. We especially like this one for its clean finish.

El Tesoro 70th Anniversary Extra Anejo: Attention, high rollers and tequila aficionados, this bottle comes with a price tag that pushes $100. But if you've got the coin, you'll find a full-bodied tequila with an oak-y and rich agave flavor. The exceptionally long finish may help you get past the sticker shock.

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"Appetizers" sends its congratulations to Timothy Hollingsworth, a former Placerville resident, who won the "rising star chef" category in the 2010 James Beard Foundation Awards. Hollingsworth, a 1998 graduate of El Dorado High School, currently serves as chef de cuisine at The French Laundry in Yountiville, Ca.

You may have seen Hollingsworth as a guest judge on "Top Chef," and also headed Team United States in the 2009 Bocuse d'Or World Cuisine Contest in Lyon, France. Not bad for a guy who got started cooking in his senior year at Zachary Jacques in Placerville. Winning this James Beard Award, which is the culinary equivalent of winning an Oscar, is another nice coup for this increasingly acclaimed chef. We're certain we'll be hearing plenty more about him soon.


Looking for something to sip when the day is done - a.k.a. "beer-thirty?" Drop by The Shack (5201 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento; 916-457-5997) for tonight's release party of Odonata Beer Co.'s Saison. Local hopheads have been looking forward to this beer for months. Odonata's brewmaster is Peter Hoey, former brewmaster of the now-defunct Sacramento Brewing Company, and its new Saison is a Belgian-style ale that touts a floral character and moderate hops. Odonata's events during the recent Sacramento Beer Week were all the buzz, and this refreshing style of "farmhouse" ale will be especially appreciated as the weather warms up.

There's been one snag with this Saison. Bottles won't be ready for a couple of weeks, due to some issues with yeast and carbonation. But the Saison that's stored in kegs is already good to go. The release party runs from 5 p.m. - 10 p.m. today. See you there, with pint in hand.

For more information: www.odonatabeer.com

The latest entry to "restaurant row" at the Fountains shopping center is about to launch, with a whole lot of skee ball and burgers, to boot. The new Roseville location of Dave & Busters will open Monday, with doors swinging open at 11:30 a.m. At 17,000 square feet, this Dave & Busters is on the smaller side compared to the chain's 50-something locations around the country. The Dave & Busters in the San Jose area, by comparison, is more than three times the size of this new one in Roseville.

Today was all about wrapping up training for the some 165 staffers, along with media previews and other private events while this Dave & Busters continues in "soft launch" mode up until Monday. The location at 1174 Roseville Parkway can accommodate up to 1,000 patrons in this meeting of comfort food and games. The "Busters" in Dave & Busters could refer to the feeling in your gut after grubbing on the menu items, which features plenty of burgers, steaks and a line-up of "big salads."

More than 200 games are for playing in the adjacent "Million Dollar Midway," from such old-school classics as Space Invaders and Ms. Pac Man, to Guitar Hero and skeeball. Think of it all as Chuck E. Cheese for adults, but minus Mr. Munch and the ability to sip a beer in between rounds of Dance Dance Revolution.

Look for the full scoop in tomorrow's Bee.

Are you a winery owner with visions of double-gold medals in your head? Get your wine labels and fees together by May 7 and enter the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. Considered the oldest wine competition in North America, this event drew more than 600 wineries in 2009 and took three days of swirling and spitting to judge the wines.

Ready to see how your juice stacks up against the competition? Go to www.bigfun.org to view the competition handbook or call (916) 263-3159.

The second annual Midtown Cocktail Week is set for Aug. 9 - Aug. 15, and we've got some scoop on this year's participating venues. This year's edition will feature some new watering holes and restaurants in this celebration of local cocktail culture, including Shady Lady, Ella Dining Room and Bar, Golden Bear, deVere's Irish Pub, Scandal Bar at the Citizen Hotel and the Torch Club.

However, a few participants from last year won't be in the mix this year. Mulvaney's B&L, Ink and Paragary's Bar and Oven are all passing this time around on Midtown Cocktail Week.

The lineup of events is still taking shape, but here's what you and your cocktail glass can expect come August:

- Opening bash at L Wine Lounge and Urban Kitchen, titled "the art of drinking well: from aperitif to digestif."

- Five stations of cocktail tastings at Ella, with appetizers.

- Whiskeys of the world at deVere's, with an afterparty at the Shady Lady.

- Tasting of Oaxacan mezcal at Zocalo.

- Prix fixe cocktail flights at the Citizen Hotel's Scandal bar.

- Closing night party at the Torch Club, featuring a prohibition-era dance and cocktails from the era.

Also, plan on cocktail making classes and seminars for local bartenders with topics including tools and techniques, competition tips and ingredients.

You might also notice that "midtown" is defined very broadly for this year's cocktail week, with a chunk of venues existing on the downtown section of the grid. This has led to some politics going on behind the scenes, but organizers are still hopeful that the Sacramento masses will be ready to fill their cocktail glasses.

"I think midtown is really cool and we want to bring attention to it, but we won't change name," said Joe Anthony Savala, co-founder of Midtown Cocktail Week. "That topic got kind of hot in the beginning. Last year was still pretty well attended. A lot of places couldn't make the drinks fast enough."

Information: www.midtowncocktailweek.org (under construction)

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Billy Ngo, the sushi chef and owner of Kru, was profiled recently in the Bee's Food & Wine section as he readied to open his latest venture. Ngo' new restaurant, Red Lotus, has finally opened at the former G.V. Hurley's at 2718 J St. in midtown. We say "finally" because Ngo's been trying to open Red Lotus since fall of 2009, but held up in red tape for the liquor license.

That liquor license has yet to arrive at Red Lotus, but Ngo expects this to be resolved within the next two weeks. So for the time being, Red Lotus is serving food and non-alcoholic drinks until their paperwork gets completed.

We dropped by on Saturday night to check out Red Lotus in "soft opening" mode. There was no signage yet outside, and patrons filtered in slowly but steadily throughout the evening. Ngo's using this time to fine tune the menu and coordination in the kitchen before the crunch of its upcoming grand opening.

And how much a beer will hit the spot. Red Lotus' menu of Chinese and Asian small plates features plenty of spicy touches, from its kung pao chicken wings ($6.50) to seared Wagyu beef placed over hot mustard ($15). The long beans with XO sauce ($7), a spicy sauce generally used with Cantonese seafood dishes, also carried a nice kick.

Fans of Ngo's cooking at Kru will certainly want to check Red Lotus. We liked that no menu item cost more than $15, yet the dishes didn't skimp on savory and spicy flavors. There's also a sense of fun in the execution. A dessert order of donuts with condensed milk and jackfruit ($5) were presented in a Chinese to-go box that was laid sideways, as if the donuts were spilling out of the container.

Ngo meanwhile looked a little anxious, surveying the room and huddling with kitchen staff.

"I'm excited and happy," said Ngo. "I'm a little nervous about the reaction to the food, but I've been getting good feedback from people so far. Some people have come in but left because there's no alcohol, but everything's still going good. We'll see how the turnout is tonight."


Looking for some fresh fruits and veggies? Think about heading to "the P" starting next month. A farmers market is coming to the corner of Broadway and 35th St., an area that we know as Oak Park. The market is set to run Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. from May 15 to Oct. 16. The farmers market, which received a $20,000 grant from Kaiser Permanente, is being run by the non-profit NeighborWorks HomeOwnership Center. The market will also accept electronic food stamp cards in its efforts to bring fresh produce and goods to this part of town. Plans also call for live music, and organizers are looking to recruit bands. If you're interested in being part of the entertainment, or just want more info., visit this link.

That's right, you'll need to sip from a wine glass to pass a particular class at Sacramento State. You can earn one unit by passing "California Wine Tourism," which will be held weekly on campus at Solano Hall. The course covers such aspects of the wine tourism industry as marketing, retail and economic impact. The "field research" sounds especially fun. Students are required to take four field trips to wineries as a class, and one on their own.

Enrollment for this class is capped at 20 students. To check out the syllabus, reading notes and more information, visit this link to the course.

Thanks for paying attention ... class is dismissed!

Which local chef has the knife skills to pay the bills? We'll find out April 30th as the grill heats up at the 8th Annual Celebrity Chef Challenge. The setting of this "Iron Chef" style competition will be the California Automobile Museum (2200 Front Street, Sacramento) - though in a culinary battle like this, we'd like to see it held in a steel octagon cage suspended over a ring. Each chef will have 45 mins. and five ingredients to wow a judging panel with three dishes.

The celebrity chefs in this foodie grudge match are:

Ryan O'Malley (Piatti Ristorante)
Russell Michel (Morgan's Central Valley Bistro at the Sheraton Grand)
Anthony Dimasuay (3 Fires Lounge in Residence Inn by Marriott)
Kristy DeVaney (www.Cakegrrl.com)
Chef Q (Chef Q for Hire)
Teresa Urkofsky (American River College Culinary Arts Program)

Along with this chef's challenge, samples of food and drink will be available from 100 vendors. Tickets cost $50 advance, $60 at the door. For more information: www.chefevent.com.

You can now count on three things in life: death, taxes - and food deals on Tax Day. Check out these deals on April 15, perhaps for a post-snack run from the post office or H&R Block:

Taco del Mar
(1120 Exposition Blvd., Sacramento) will offer a free taco on April 15. Here's the catch you have to visit www.tacodelmar.com and sign up to receive a coupon.

If you have a hankering for something besides Mexican food, P.F. Chang's will be offering a 15 percent dining discount on April 15. No forms to fill out for this one, which most of us can appreciate this week. Here's the fine print: the discount does not include alcoholic beverages. For more info.: www.pfchangs.com.

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We've seen plenty of musician types releasing their own wines, from Bob Dylan to the Latin lothario known as Luis Miguel. But few take their wine as seriously as Maynard James Keenan, lead singer for the hard rock band Tool.

The enigmatic Tool frontman is said to have an epic cellar - we're talking two complete verticals of Penfolds Grange magnums - but he's also a vintner behind two wine labels: Arizona Stronghold Vineyards and Caduceus Cellars/ Merkin Vineyards. Beyond just slapping his name on a bottle, Keenan oversees his own vineyards in Arizona with winemaker Eric Glomski (that's Glomski on the right in the above picture).

The two are now the focus of a documentary titled "Blood Into Wine," which will be screened on June 10 at the Crest Theatre. We'll keep you updated with the show time and ticket info. as it comes along. In the meantime, check out a trailer of the film at: www.bloodintowine.com.

See you down in Arizona Bay ...

Friday: The courtyard opens at the Firehouse in Old Sacramento (1112 Second St., Sacramento) and will commemorate the outdoor dining season with a special lunch deal: buy a lunch entree and receive a 375 ml bottle of Row Eleven pinot noir for 11 cents. The bottle can be popped for lunch, or taken home as a parting gift. Reservation required: (916) 442-4772 or www.firehouseoldsac.com.

April 12: Evan's Kitchen (855 57th St., Sacramento) hosts a "farm-fresh organic wine dinner" featuring vino from Frog's Tooth Vineyards. Four courses, plus dessert, including asparagus and artichoke heart soup, Petaluma chicken breast, beef brochettes and more. $65 per person. For reservations: (916) 452-3896.

April 17-18: Amador Foothill Winery (12500 Steiner Road, Plymouth) celebrates its 30th open house weekend. Meet proprietors Ben Zeitman and Katie Quinn, sample their wine and hear tunes from Bayou Boys Back Porch Band. 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Information: (800) 778-9463.

April 20: Get a taste of the central coast in the Paso Robles Wine Country 2010 Grand Tasting Tour, to be held at the Grand Ballroom (629 J St., Sacramento). Over 30 wineries will be pouring their wares, along with appetizers for snacking. $45 in advance, $55 at the door. Information: www.pasowine.com.

April 1, 2010
More corkage deals

My "Wine Buzz" column on Wednesday gave a rundown of corkage deals around the Sacramento area, and asked readers to chime in with more deals.

Before we get to those, let's make a quick clarification for the corkage deal at 58 Degrees & Holding Co. (1217 18th St., Sacramento; 916-442-5858). Corkage is waived on Sundays, but only for bottles purchased at 58 Degrees' wine shop (a $15 bargain). All outside bottles will still set you back $25 for corkage.

Now, on to more deals. We still haven't found anywhere locally besides Bandera and Iron Steaks that offers free corkage every day. But, we've heard from some local restaurants that want to spread the word about their corkage deals and other wine specials:

Piatti Ristorante and Bar (571 Pavilions Lane, Sacramento; 916-649-8885) waives corkage if you also purchase a bottle from their wine list. Wednesdays also feature half-price deals on select wines.

Evan's Kitchen (855 57th St., Sacramento; 916-452-3896) charges $10 corkage (which is about half the price of the typical corkage) with a $50 maximum.

Brick House Restaurant (9027 Elk Grove Blvd., Elk Grove; 916-714-0840) offers $10 corkage daily, and no limit to the amount of bottles.

Got any more tips on corkage bargains? Let's hear 'em ...

The new Terminal B at Sacramento International Airport is slated to have a local flavor. Dos Coyotes, Squeeze Inn, Mulvaney's B&L and other local restaurants are all in talks to open eateries when construction finishes on Terminal B in late 2011. The idea is to showcase Sacramento's culinary offerings and entrepreneurs, instead of relying on the same ol' Cinnabon and Burger King options.

"We want people who land in the airport to know they're in Sacramento," said Karen Doron, spokeswoman for the Sacramento County Airport System.

Proposals are still being accepted, and the list of confirmed airport eateries isn't expected to be known for months. But, the prospect of a "locals only" food program sounds tantalizing to many restaurateurs.

"Conceptually, it's a great idea to have local, sustainable businesses at the airport," said Mulvaney's B&L owner Patrick Mulvaney, who's mulling a proposal to open at the airport. "Do you really want a Cinnabon when you can have that last 'Squeeze With Cheese' (from Squeeze Inn) before you fly overseas?"

Restaurant owners interested in landing their own Terminal B eatery can call the airport's airport properties division: 916-874-0719.

March 29, 2010
Cafeteria 15L opens today

Mason Wong's name no longer hangs on the sign of his downtown restaurant. But you will find this restaurateur's signature of sorts when you ask for a drink. Order some water at Cafeteria 15L and it'll be served in mason jars.

Mason's Restaurant has morphed into Cafeteria 15L (15th and L streets, Sacramento; 916-492-1960), ditching its previous fine dining menu for familiar comfort foods and lower prices. Pronounced phonetically like "Cafeteria One-Five-L," the restaurant opens today and will host an official grand opening bash on April 6.

Let's get back to the name. "Cafeteria" conjures all kinds of images of lunch ladies, fruit cocktail and mystery meats. Can this have the makings for a Sacramento hot spot?

"That was the whole idea, to change people's perceptions of 'cafeteria,'" says Wong. "We're going to make it a cool name."

The restaurant's remodeling has taken five weeks, aiming for a more casual and social vibe with community tables and funky furnishings. Garage doors have also been installed into a side of the restaurant, which will open into an upcoming patio on 15th St. The capacity of Cafeteria 15L's dining room has been increased to 150, up from 105 when the restaurant was called Mason's. Wong says the remodel's price tag cost "hundreds of thousands of dollars."

Jonathan Kerksieck
, former chef de cuisine at Grange, has signed on as Cafeteria's executive chef. The menu's still being fine tuned - everything from the size of its cupcakes to the thickness of a chili - but look for plenty of comfort foods with an upscale twist. Think: tater tots with spiced ground beef, patty melt sliders and buttermilk fried chicken - and water in mason jars to wash it down.

Apart from rib-eye steak, no entree will cost more than $20 and many items are available for single-digit price tags. A series of "Blue Plate Specials" will also be offered for $16. And just like the policy at Mason's, which opened in 2006, buy dinner at Cafeteria 15L and the cover charge to the adjacent Park nightclub will be waived. With cover charges ranging from $10-$15 on weekends, it's a good dining and dancing deal.

"It was tough to get rid of the (Mason's) concept," says Wong. "We put a lot of heart and soul into that place. We'd been studying comfort food for the last few years. Plus, the economy was very tough. Typically a restaurant won't do a remodel for seven years. A lot of times you just have to roll with the punches and trust your gut."

On the Web: www.cafeteria15l.com

Flanked by city officials - and a 6 liter bottle of Frank Family cabernet sauvignon - a groundbreaking ceremony was held this morning to commemorate the expansion of Enotria Restaurant and Wine Bar.

The $1.5 million project on the corner of Del Paso Blvd. and Arden Way will include an events center, expanded restaurant and new wine bar. But more than giving this longtime wine bar a makeover, it's hoped the expansion will give a boost to Del Paso Blvd.'s business traffic.

"This is going to be a major change to the boulevard," said Sandy Sheedy, the City Council member who represents this north Sacramento neighborhood in District 2. "It's about changing the perception (of the neighborhood) and making it inviting. We're eclectic and we need to enhance that."

Enotria's staff is meanwhile planning to enhance its food and drink offerings, along with hiring additional servers. Look for Enotria to brew its own Belgian styled beer, and a small plates menu designed by executive chef Anthony Brenes for its new wine bar. Brunch will also be offered once the remodel is completed.

The first phase of the renovation is expected to be finished in September, which will include the construction of Enotria's 1,250-square-foot events center. A restaurant remodel will follow, with a grand opening planned for December.

Enotria will remain open during its remodeling, and currently features a $40 dinner for two (bottle of wine included) each Wednesday and Thursday.

"This expansion shows faith in the area and enormous faith in the recovery of the economy," said Susan Barry, the expansion's project coordinator. "The project has moved slowly, but zip-a-dee-doo-dah, we're here a year later and we've broken ground."

Mark Aug. 9 - 15 for the second annual Midtown Cocktail Week, a veritable days-long bash of spirits and cocktail culture. Participating venues and watering holes are still being worked out. Last year's participants included L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen, Mulvaney's B&L, Zocalo, Ink Eats & Drinks along with cocktail making workshops and other activities. We'll keep you posted with more information as it's announced. You can also check: www.midtowncocktailweek.org.

March 12, 2010
Wine exports drop in 2009

The domestic wine industry wilted in 2009, rocked by the recession and tightening wine markets around the world. According to figures released today by the Wine Institute, a San Francisco trade group, wine exports in 2009 decreased 14.9 percent from the previous year to 417.9 million liters - or 46.4 million nine-liter cases. The value of wine exports dropped 9.5 percent to some $911.8 million in winery revenues.

While the wine industry nutures its collective hangover, there are signs that the market may rebound in 2010.

"The California wine industry was not immune to the global recession, but faired better than most wine producing countries," said Robert P. Koch, Wine Institute president and chief executive officer, in a statement. "Fourth quarter sales were up nearly 16 percent compared to the same period in 2008, giving us reason to believe that 2010 will be a good year."

Exports to the European Union proved to be especially tough in 2009. Volume shipments slid 21 percent in 2009 compared to the previous year. 42 percent of domestic wine exports are shipped to Europe.

"2009 was a tough year in an already highly competitive UK wine market, with pressure on prices, reductions in stock holdings, and cutbacks in the number of wine offerings occurring in all sectors," said John McLaren, Wine Institute trade director for the United Kingdom.

But, there was good news in Japan, where the United States overtook Chile as the largest bulk wine exporter to Japan. Bulk table wine exports to Japan were up 42 percent by volume and 34.4 percent in U.S. dollars.


Back in January, after pondering some dietary issues, I penned a Food & Wine story called, "Should You Get Rid of the Gluten?" Judging by the amount of calls and e-mails I received, this form of digestive distress very much resonated with readers around Sacramento. For part of the story, we included a list of local eateries with extensive gluten-free menu items. One of those listed was P.F. Chang's China Bistro, which listed such dishes as chicken lettuce wraps and Chang's lemon scallops on its gluten-free menu.

P.F. Chang's recently expanded its gluten-free menu to 28 items, and now includes beef dishes, to boot.

"More and more of our guests are asking for gluten free options and we're proud to offer them a greater variety of P.F. Chang's classics," said Gregg Piazzi, director of culinary training for P.F. Chang's China Bistro, in a statement.

Here's the full menu of P.F. Chang's gluten-free intems, with prices included. Thanks, and wishing good digestion to all ...

Entrées:

GF Shrimp with Lobster Sauce - $12.95
GF Moo Goo Gai Pan -$13.25
GF Ginger Chicken With Broccoli - $12.75
GF Philip's Better Lemon Chicken - $12.95
GF Chang's Spicy Chicken - $12.95
GF Chang's Lemon Scallops - $14.95
GF Salmon Steamed With Ginger - $17.95
GF Cantonese Shrimp or Scallops - $14.95
GF Mongolian Beef - $14.95
GF Beef with Broccoli - $11.95
GF Beef a La Sichuan - $13.95
GF Pepper Steak - $13.25
GF Hong Kong Beef with Snow Peas - $10.25
GF Dali Chicken - $12.95

Starter:

GF Chang's Chicken Lettuce Wraps - $7.95

Soup:

GF Egg Drop Soup Cup - $2.95/Bowl - $5.95

Noodles:

GF Singapore Street Noodles - $9.95

Rice:

GF P.F. Chang's Fried Rice - $7.95/Combo - $9.95

Vegetarian:

GF Buddha's Feast - $7.50

Sides:

GF Spinach Stir-Fried with Garlic
GF Garlic Snap Peas
GF Shanghai Cucumbers (Small: $2.95/Large: $4.95)

Dessert:

GF Flourless Chocolate Dome - $5.95

Lunch Bowls:

GF Buddha's Feast - $7.25
GF Shrimp with Lobster Sauce - $8.95
GF Moo Goo Gai Pan - $8.95
GF Beef with Broccoli - $8.95
GF Pepper Steak - $8.95

Let's say you're taking a trip to San Francisco but still have a thirst for home. Well hello, it'll be your lucky day on March 20, as two dozen El Dorado County wineries will show their stuff at Postrio in San Francisco (545 Post St., San Francisco; 415-776-7825). Some 100 wines will be for the tasting, along with food and live jazz grooves for $38 a head. Participating wineries include:

Auriga Wine Cellars
Boeger Winery
Girard Vineyards
Holly's Hill Vineyards
Lava Cap Winery
Miraflores Winery
Narrowgate Vineyards
Perry Creek Vineyards
... and many more.

The tasting runs from 2 p.m. - 5 p.m. For more information: www.vinunderground.com

Let's say you're observing Lent, but have a hankering for a hot dog. Well, observant Christians, you know that eating meat is a big no-no on Fridays through Lent. So what to do if you want to say, "TGIF," by hitting up a Wienerschnitzel?

This veritable hot dog emporium has an answer for this Lent quandary. Wienerschnitzel recently added a fish focused "Un-DER the Sea Trio" to its fast-food menu. You might have to save the chili dog for another day, but here's what you can have at Wienerschnitzel that won't prompt a trip to the confession booth: the Sea Dog, Fish Wrap and Fish n' Chips.

Holy mackerel!

According to a press release from Wienerschnitzel's hot doggin' headquarters, here's what you can expect:

"Each of the three new fish items features flaky, white Alaskan Pollock. The Sea Dog includes an Alaskan Pollock fish fillet, crunchy lettuce and a zing of tartar sauce, served on a 6" bun. The Fish Wrap consists of an Alaskan Pollock fillet topped with a unique combination of salsa and mayonnaise and wrapped in a steamed flour tortilla. The Fish N' Chips includes two perfectly deep-fried fish fillets laid atop a generous portion of Wienerschnitzel's famous hot, crispy French fries."

See you at church ... and the drive-thru window!

Back in January, I took a look back at the memorable wines of 2009 in my first "Wine Buzz" column of the year. One of the bottles singled out was the Holly's Hill Vineyards 2006 El Dorado Patriarche, a wonderful Rhone-style blend of mourvedre and syrah that shined wowed us its juicy cherry fruit. Such Rhone-style wines just seem to shine in El Dorado County, and Holly's Hill Vineyards is an especially consistent producer.

Here's a chance to sample the latest Holly's Hill wines in tandem with some tasty food. Gonul's J Street Cafe (3839 J St., Sacramento; 916-457-1155) is hosting "A Taste of the Rhone Valley" winemakers dinner on March 23, fetauring the wines of Holly's Hill. Though we'd love another taste of the 2006 El Dorado Patriarche, the latest vintage of this wine will be served, along with others that will be paired over four courses plus dessert.

The dinner starts at 6:30 p.m. and costs $49.50 per person. Here's the menu:

Sauteed prawns & scallops
, with a spicy mango sauce
Holly's Hill 2009 Viognier

Stuffed Durham Ranch chicken, with apricots, dates, preserved lemon, golden raisins, shallots, goat cheese and cream cheese
Holly's Hill 2008 Grenache

Bonless short rib, with red wine and dark chocolate sauce
Holly's Hill 2007 Patriarche

Filet mignon roast,
with a three-pepper glace
Holly's Hill 2006 Syrah

Apple crisp
2008 Late Harvest Roussanne

Dust off your "Dance Dance Revolution" skills and work off those buffalo wings. Dave & Busters is coming to the Fountains in Roseville, with an expected opening date in early May. For those not in the know, Dave & Busters is like Chuck E. Cheese for adults - but minus the robotic puppets and playscapes that are like petri dishes of the latest cold bugs. Dave & Busters features interactive games, an old-school arcade (anyone up for two player on Galaga?) and lots of games to test your athletic skills after downing pints of beer. The menu features plenty of gut busting fare, including burgers, steaks and fried shrimp platters.

Dave & Busters will be the latest addition to "restaurant row" at the Fountains in Roseville. Current eateries include: California Pizza Kitchen, McCormick & Schmick's, The Counter, Tres Agaves, Boudin, Noodles and Sake House.

While Dave & Busters prepares to open, look for a "dining after dark" special at the Fountains on Sunday through Thursday evenings until March 31. Stop by one of the "restaurant row" eateries after 8 p.m. and you'll get a 20 percent discount.

Good deal ... but really, who's up for a Galaga challenge?

Sacramento sure loves its suds. That's the final verdict as Sacramento Beer Week wrapped up on Sunday, after seven days, 300 events around the region, and who knows how many hangovers. The mood was festive throughout this first-ever beer celebration, with opportunities to try some fine local brews and beers from parts beyond. A crowd of 400 packed the Colonial Theatre last Monday for Sacramento Beer Week's "Inaugural Gala," and the beer loving masses seemed to be everywhere. Anyone get a table at Rubicon Brewing Co. over the weekend? If so, consider yourself one of the lucky ones.

"Rubicon was packed for three days straight," says Dan Scott, Sacramento Beer Week's executive director. "(Rubicon owner Glynn Phillips) said two of them were the busiest days he's ever had. There were just really great stories about attendance. On a rainy Monday night, the Golden Bear went through 200 pints of Guinness. Streets of London ran out by 4 p.m. of the Sierra Nevada Beer they were serving. A bunch of events at the Shack and Pangaea Cafe were just wall to wall."

So it's no surprise to report that Sacramento Beer Week will be back next year.

"Oh yeah, we'll be back," says Scott. "Our intention was to start small, but there was such great participation from local business owners that it just took off. People went to bars they didn't know existed, and tried beers they hadn't heard of. That was the point of entire week: to get people out to try new things, and enjoy it enough to do it again."

February 24, 2010
Sacramento Beer Week deals

Sacramento Beer Week continues to chug along, with sold-out beer dinners at Mulvaney's B&L and a whole lot of suds sipping around the Sacramento area. The "Inaugural Gala" held on Monday night at the Colonial Theatre drew some 400 beer fans, who sampled from the likes of Rubicon, River City Brewing Company, Lagunitas Brewing Company out of Petaluma and more.

One bit of scoop we got during that beer-riffic event: Sacramento's Odonata Brewing Company is seeking a tasting room and brewery in the midtown area. That was the word from Peter Hoey, the company's founder and former brewmaster of Sacramento Brewing Company, who currently crafts his beers at Sudwerk in Davis. But, Hoey says that opening a midtown tasting room is tricky because of laws the prohibit single bottle sales in that area. He's still working these issues out, and we'll keep you posted when we hear more.

Red tape aside, plenty of great Sacramento Beer Week deals are for the taking. The event runs through Sunday, and here are some ways to enjoy this celebration on a budget:

Tonight

- $2 pints of Sudwerk and local music at The Townhouse Lounge (1517 21st St.). Tunes by Justin Farren, Blvd. Park and more. 7 p.m. - midnight. No cover charge.

- $2.50 house beers at "A Fermentation of Verse," featuring suds and poetry at River City Brewing Company (545 Downtown Plaza, Ste. 1115, Sacramento). 7 p.m.

- Pitcher of California microbrew and a dozen wings for $15 at Extreme Pizza (1140 Exposition Blvd., Sacramento)

Through Sunday:

- "Old School Happy Hour" with $1 beers from Miller High Life, Olympia, Mickey's Big Mouth and more at Monkey Bar (2730 Capitol Ave., Sacramento). 3 p.m. - 7 p.m.

- $2 off any beer and appetizer combo at Old Soul at the Weatherstone (812 21st St., Sacramento)

- 22 oz Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and Glissade Golden Bock for $4.99 at Logan's Roadhouse (3698 North Freeway Blvd., Sacramento).

For a full line-up of events and beer specials:www.sacramentobeerweek.com.

That's right, a hot stack of pancakes is yours for free on Feb. 23 at all IHOP restaurants. It's IHOP's way of celebrating "National Pancake Day" - and can we lobby to get the day off for this? - and this freebie will run from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

IHOP is also asking for a little something in return. Though the pancake stack is free, diners are asked to leave a donation for the Children's Miracle Network hospitals. In Sacramento's case, the beneficiary of these donations will be the UC Davis Children's Hospital.

Last year, this National Pancake Day fundraiser reaped $1.5 million for children's charities, and IHOP served more than 2.5 million free flapjacks. So, enjoy your free stack and show a little kindness in return. Cool?

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What's the hottest Facebook fan club for local foodies these days? It's a page with a tongue-and-cheek title that honors one of Sacramento's favorite grocers and gourmands: "Darrell Corti will always know more than you about Food and Wine."

The fan club has grown from just a couple dozen members to nearly 300 in just about two weeks. The group was created by Gretchen Allen-Wilcox, a former Corti Brothers wine merchant who now lives in Portland. She recently recruited Rick Mindermann, store director for Corti Brothers, to serve as a page administor.

Fire up your computer (or Facebook app for your iPhone or other mobile device) and check out the foodie fun. See pictures of the oldest wine Corti's owned: a bottle of Madeira from 1740 that was opened and shared in 2008. Read anecdotes from local food and wine folk about their memories of Darrell over the years, including getting pronunciations corrected and conversations about Kobe beef.

Corti himself has seen the page, but was away at VINO 2010 in New York City and couldn't be reached for comment on this Facebook tribute. (Darrell Corti also travels more than you when it comes to food and wine). Mindermann says the page makes Corti feel a little uncomfortable, but he's humbled by the tribute and amount of interest.

"He's very low-key and keeps everything close to his chest," says Mindermann. "For me, the page is partly a thank you from people and it also gives readers a better understanding about who he is and what he does. I think in six months we could be at more than 1,000 followers."

So, what are you waiting for? Stop playing Farmville already and become a fan yourself.

Fans of El Novillero, the popular Mexican restaurant on Franklin Blvd., have always been stuck if they've wanted to eat there on a Sunday. For 30 years, family tradition has held that the restaurant stay closed on Sundays. But that's about to change, for the first time in three decades.

El Novillero will open its doors this Sunday, as a kind of Valentine's Day gift. So, if your sweetie is craving some family-style Mexican food, drop by El Novillero (4216 Franklin Blvd., Sacramento) from 2 p.m. - 9 p.m. on Sunday.

"We just decided we can't miss this opportunity to serve and be there for our loyal customers," said Joe Davalos Jr., El Novillero's owner, in a press release.

Enjoy this Mexican dining on a Sunday while you can. After Valentine's Day, the restaurant will go back to honoring its family tradition, with a big "closed" sign in the window to wind down the weekend.

For more information: (916) 456-4287

Are you ready for some Super Bowl? Yours truly will be parked on the couch this Sunday and rooting for the New Orleans Saints (Who dat! Who dat!), and doing my best not to fall into a food coma before halftime. That would be a 35-yard penalty for unnecessary lameness ... but it'll be tough with all the food going around.

Last week, we printed the results of our beer and buffalo wing tasting. That's as super a food/wine pairing as you'll find for the Super Bowl, but here's another food favored by the football fans and armchair jocks out there: pizza!

But, better plan on ordering this pizza early. A press release from the Pizza Hut folks came our way, and their pizza overlords report that they expect to sell 1.7 million pizzas on Super Bowl Sunday. Holy pepperoni, that's enough to cover more than 45 football fields.

So, huddle up and get ready to place those orders. Some pizza chains even have online ordering options, such as www.pizzahut.com and www.dominos.com. And for the tech-savvy pizza lovers out there, you can even order from Pizza Hut's iPhone app.

Bring on the Big Game and pass the red pepper flakes ... hike!


Roseville residents with a hankering for Japanese food and the ultra lounge experience have a new option. Sake House, in the Fountains shopping center, (1017 Galleria Blvd. #160, Roseville) served its first meals at lunchtime today. Sake House is the lastest venture from restaurateur Randy Paragary, who partnered with local nightclub maven Bob Simpson for the lounge element of Sake House. Billy Ngo of midtown's Kru restaurant helped conceive the menu, which includes:

Poke Trio - salmon with ponzu, ginger, sesame oil, kaiware / tuna with soy, chili oil, masago, green onions / tako with wakame, ponzu, chili oil, and shallots



Angie Baby Roll - soy wrap, cucumber, avocado and masago; topped with yellow fin tuna, albacore tuna, sautéed mushrooms and scallions



The Inferno Roll
- spicy tuna, cucumber, sprouts and jalapeño; topped with yellow fin tuna and jalapeño-tobiko chili sauce



Grilled Rack of Lamb - rosemary-balsamic teriyaki sauce

And if you aren't stuffed with sushi, you can get your groove on starting at 10 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday nights. The cover charge is $20 - about as high as you'll find in the area - but the cost comes down depending on your age. Ages 30+ get $5 off, 35+ get $10 off and ages 40+ are free. When it comes to age, there's no shame in this ultra lounge game.

Update: Cover charge for the lounge is also waived for diners.

For more info: www.sakehouseroseville.com

Stemmers, crushers, corks, tractors, glassware, bottling lines ... the Sacramento Convention Center's main exhibit hall is like the Willy Wonka factory of wine. Some 600 exhibitors are showing off their wares at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, the largest wine and grape trade show in the western hemisphere. The floor seems a little less packed than usual at this moment, but that may be because a tasting of Bordeaux blends is going on next door at the Hyatt Regency.

And now this: attendance figures were just released, and the final head count is 11,700 for Unified 2010. That's a drop of 200 from last year, when a record-setting 11,900 attended Unified 2009.

Still, we're wondering if Unified has outgrown the Sacramento Convention Center. With floor space maxed out, and some exhibitors wishing they had room for their booths, it would seem so. Some 170 exhibitors were also placed on a waiting list for this year.

But where would Unified go? Organizers say San Francisco would be too costly and Reno is too dicey because of weather. So it's Sacramento for now, and for at least the next two years.

And now, it's back for another spin at the trade show ... Zorks and cooperage, here I come. And cheers to Unified 2010...


More than 11,000 attendees are expected for the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, which kicked off this morning and runs through Friday at the Sacramento Convention Center and Hyatt Regency. But as the domestic wine industry descends on Sacramento for exhibits in the latest wine making technology and panel discussions, the buzz around town was that 2010 would mark Unified's last year in Sacramento. Rumor had it that Unified would move to a more cost-effective venue in San Francisco.

That rumor has turned out to be false. According to a spokesperson for Unified, not only will Unified stay in Sacramento, but they've already booked the Sacramento Convention Center for the next two years.

That's welcome news for downtown restaurateurs and other businesses, which see a significant spike in business during Unified week. According to the Sacramento Convention and Visitors Bureau, Unified generates $2.2 million in economic impact for Sacramento through restaurant bookings, hotel rooms and other local business activity. 2,000 hotel rooms are also reserved annually during the Unified convention.

"It's one of the largest groups we host in town," said Mike Testa, spokesman for the Sacramento Convention and Visitors Bureau. "It's a win-win from a business and partnering standpoint."

OK, this is hardly the most scientific poll we've come across, but a survey at www.worstpizza.com shows that 63 percent of couples are staying home for Valentine's Day. Say what you will about this poll, which was conducted online and surveyed some 3,000 folks. But these findings pose an interesting question: Do you plan to take your sweetie our for Valentine's Day, or will you just make it a Blockbuster sort of night with an extra dash of romance?

Many local restaurants are planning special Valentine's Day menus, but they often don't come cheap. So, maybe you'd rather leave the Valentine's Day dining for the romance rookies out there, and protect your wallet from V-Day price gouging and valet parking.

So, what are your plans for Valentine's Day dining? Leave a comment, and don't let cupid hit you on the way out.

Downtown lunch diners with a hunger for Thai food have been surprised by the abrupt closure of Amarin Thai Cuisine on 12th and I streets. Acknowledged as Sacramento's first Thai restaurant, Amarin opened in 1983 and known for its broad menu and brisk lunch service. But, the scene was one of confusion today as would-be lunch diners arrived at Amarin, only to find the restaurant closed.

"I was going to take two students to lunch there, and it was going to be a real treat," said Judie Panneton, who works nearby Amarin at the State Water Resources Control Board. "We saw a printed sign in the window that said something about the restaurant being closed and thanking everyone for their many years of (patronage). People were standing around the front. It's definitely taken people by surprise."

Attempts to reach the owners of Amarin have so far been unsuccessful. We'll fill you in with more news as it comes our way.

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Some of you may remember the heartwarming and palate scorching story of Diego Bartolome. He's the 10-year-old from rural El Dorado County who started a salsa business to help with his family finances, especially after his mom lost her job. He sells "Diego's Awesome Salsa" each Sunday in El Dorado County, and had raked in $1,000 from his business as of December.

I got an e-mail from Diego's mom, Paula, who said Diego's moved his salsa sales to a new location: Chunks of Heaven Cookie Company on Black Oak Mine Rd . in Garden Valley (530-344-8058).

And there's even some bigger news for the salsa boy. Diego's Awesome Salsa has a tentative date for Feb. 13 to be carried at Mar-Val Grocery in Georgetown (6049 Front St., Georgetown). There's also a buzz going that his salsa is set for even bigger market shelves, but we can't disclose that one yet. Let's just say there's been some talk with a store that emphasizes co-operation with local growers.

Stay tuned for more on this salsa story ...

Dine Downtown Restaurant Week continues through Sunday, but the turnout so far has some restaurateurs licking their chops. The event is aimed at drawing diners downtown, with 36 restaurants offering three-course meals for $30. Participating restaurants include many of downtown's top dining destinations, including Biba Restaurant, Mulvaney's B&L, and The Firehouse.

"We've seen the levels of business almost double what we usually expect this time of year," said Brent Larkin, director of food and beverage for Grange at The Citizen, in a statement released by the Downtown Sacramento Partnership. "Considering these economic times, people are surprisingly coming out in droves. We hope many of our guests are using this promotion to visit our restaurant for the first time and, in turn, become future patrons."

We'll keep tabs on the final results once "Dine Downtown" wraps over the weekend. Meanwhile, you can find a full list of participating restaurants here.

The city of West Sacramento has plenty going for it these days: a minor league baseball stadium, an IKEA and such food spots as Club Pheasant (don't forget the fried ravioli) and the deep-fried nirvana known as Whitey's Jolly Kone. West Sacramento's burrito population is now about to rise with the opening of a Chipotle Mexican Grill on Jan. 22. The Chiptole is located at IKEA Court, near the I-80 freeway. And we can't think of a better way to fuel up before assembling an IKEA shelving unit than with one of those Chipotle burritos that's the size of a small cat.

Look for some pre-opening festivities on Jan. 21. This Chipotle will host a fundraiser from 5 p.m. - 8 p.m that day., and all proceeds will benefit Hope Productions Foundation, an organization that provides resources for local childrens charities. Enjoy filling that belly with burritos for a good cause.

For more information: www.chipotle.com

Some extra special sipping is in store for winners of a contest, courtesy of SacWineRegion.com and El Dorado Wineries' "Bring Out the Barrel."

So, here's the deal: Surf over to this contest entry page to enter the drawing. Prizes include private tastings, an invitation to a winery barbecue and other goodies at three El Dorado wineries during "Bring Out the Barrel" weekend on Jan. 30 - 31. The drawing ends at noon on Jan. 27, so get to it and good luck.

A potential listeria contamination has led to a recall of products from Parkers Farm. The Minnesota-based company produces salsa, peanut butter, bagel spreads and other goods which are sold nationwide. Whole Foods, Target, Sam's Club, Costco and Safeway are among the retailers which carry Parkers Farm products.

Listeria, a bacteria that can cause miscarriages in pregnant women along with nausea and severe headache, was found during product sampling by the states of Minnesota and Wisconsin. No illnesses have been reported thus far from consuming Parkers Farm products.

Here's a list of products being recalled under the Parker Farms or Parker label.

**Note: sell-by dates are clearly printed on container ½ inch from top

-16 ounce peanut butter in square plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are creamy, crunchy, honey creamy and honey crunchy with sell by dates between 11/14/2010 and 12/31/2010**.

-34 ounce peanut butter in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are creamy and crunchy with sell by dates between 8/11/2010 and 9/30/2010**.

-7 ounce bagel spreads in white plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are garden veggie, wild berry, strawberry, apple cinnamon and honey walnut) with sell by dates between 5/13/2010 and 6/30/2010**.

-14 ounce dips & spreads in square plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are jalapeno nacho, pimento and salsa con queso with sell by dates between 8/11/2010 and 9/30/2010**.

-8 ounce, 12 ounce and 16 ounce cold pack cheese in round or square plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are sharp cheddar, bacon, onion, smoked cheddar, Swiss almond, horseradish, garlic, port wine, and Swiss & cheddar with sell by dates between 11/14/2010 and 12/31/2010**.

-16 ounce salsa in square plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are hot, mild, garlic, black bean and fire roasted with sell by dates between 3/14/2010 and 4/30/2010**.

Other labels affected by this recall:

-16 ounce Happy Farms cold pack cheese in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are sharp cheddar, port wine and Swiss almond with sell by dates between 11/24/2010 and 12/10/2010**.

- 8 ounce Kroger cold pack cheese in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are sharp cheddar, port wine and Swiss almond with sell by dates between 11/18/2010 thru 12/15/2010**

- 8 ounce Central Markets cold pack cheese in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are sharp cheddar, port wine, Swiss almond, horseradish with sell by dates of 12/9/2010**

-14 oz. Central Markets salsa con queso in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid) with sell by dates of 8/16/2010**.

-16 oz. Central Markets salsa in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid). Varieties are sharp cheddar, port wine, Swiss almond, horseradish with sell by dated of 3/17/2010 through 3/24/2010**.

- 8 oz. Dutch Farms cold pack cheese in round plastic containers (tub with snap on lid), varieties are sharp cheddar, port wine, Swiss almond, horseradish, and Swiss & cheddar with sell by dates of 11/16/2010 thru 11/18/2010**.

That's right, a piping order of Jamba Juice oatmeal costs just $1 every Wednesday during the month of January. The usual price for Jamba Juice's oatmeal is $2.95, so consider this current promotion a pretty good deal. The juice-lords at the company tout its oatmeal as being made from scratch and using steel-cut oats. Along with regular ol' oatmeal with brown sugar, other flavor options include berry cherry pecan and fresh banana oatmeal. No need to print out a coupon for this deal. Just show up to Jamba Juice with a buck on Wednesdays and place your order.

Here's some good news for those of us who love to sip on some suds. Sacramento Beer Week will be celebrated from Feb. 22 - 28. Look for beer events and specials at such spots as Rubicon Brewing Company, River City Brewing Company and a tasting dedicated to local brews at The Shack in east Sacramento. For the more gastronomically inclined beer drinker, a beer dinner will be held on Feb. 23 at Mulvaney's Building & Loan, with four food courses paired with a variety of ales.

"We want to celebrate the fantastic beers made not only here, but in California and around the world," said Dan Scott, the executive director of Sacramento Beer Week. "We're going to have lots of fun, interactive events and want to raise the awareness about all the great beers available at local pubs and restaurants."

For more information: www.sacramentobeerweek.com

Prepare to feast for just a few bucks at the Old Spaghetti Factory from Jan. 12 - 13. This pasta chain's always been a favorite for diners and daters on a budget, but this upcoming special is bound to bring out the hungry masses. To celebrate its 41st birthday, all Old Spaghetti Factory locations are offering a 41 percent discount on its Pasta Classic entrees. In dollars and cents, this means a complete pasta meal with salad, bread and dessert will run you about $5. Kids meals will be in the $3 range.

The Old Spaghetti Factory held a similar promotion last year for its 40th anniversary celebrations, and its price break attracted huge crowds. The chain went through 23,000 pounds of spaghetti and fed 41,000 guests in its 2009 anniversary.

"Since then, our guests have been requesting rollback prices, and we're happy to be able to extend the discounts again this year as a thank-you to our loyal guests for their continued support," said Chris Dussin, president of the Old Spaghetti Factory, in a statement.

For more information, visit the Old Spaghetti Factory's web site.

Happy 2010, and here's something to mark on your calendar. All Togo's locations will be giving out free mini-sized pastrami sandwiches on Jan. 14. But here's the fine print: the sandwiches will be given out from 3 p.m. to 5 p.m. that day, and only to the first 100 guests during that time. Seeing how the local masses have swamped on similar free food promos, plan on getting a spot in line early.

So what's the occasion? It's Togo's way of honoring National Pastrami Day on Jan. 14. It's an apt occasion to celebrate a sliced meat that's served many an American stomach with honor and valor. And for that, mini pastrami sandwich, we salute you.

El Dorado County's wine country sure looks like a winter wonderland right now. Two feet of snow was dumped on the area earlier this week, which might've looked pretty and festive to passers-by, but was an icy headache for winery owners. Power outages and broken pipes shut down a slew of wineries, while some were simply inaccessible due to snow.

The good news: most El Dorado wineries are expected to be up and pouring wine this weekend - but be sure to pack some mittens and the heaviest jacket you've got. It'll be a cold one in them thar hills.

For a list of El Dorado wineries: www.eldoradowines.org

You can't blame Jon Affonso for looking a little bleary eyed these days. The owner of Rail Bridge Cellars, a Sacramento urban winery located just north of downtown, welcomed the birth of daughter Simone in September. Her birth just happened to coincide with the harvest season, also known as the busiest time of the year for wineries. Let's just say that sleep was rarer than a bottle of 19th century Chateau Lafite for Affonso.

"That was crazy," says Affonso, looking back on Septemeber. "I crushed 30 tons of fruit this year, both of other people's fruit and my own. It was a big, big harvest this year. I worked a lot of weekends."

Affonso will be working this weekend as well, hosting a free wine tasting on Saturday at Rail Bridge Cellars (400 North 16th St., Sacramento). The event includes live music and starts at 6 p.m. For more information: (916) 492-2530.

December 9, 2009
Job fair at Sake House

Local restaurant industry folks: do you happen to be looking for a gig? Sake House and Ultra Lounge, a Japanese restaurant coming soon to the Fountains in Roseville, is looking for employees. A job fair will be held on Dec. 14 - 15 at 1017 Galleria Blvd. in Roseville from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. each day. Brush up that resume and apply in person for these Sake House jobs. The management team is seeking:

Food Servers
Bartenders
Cocktail Servers
Hosts
Bussers
Cooks
Sushi Chefs

Good luck!

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Quality Napa cabernet for under $20? Sean Minor of Sacramento is making that happen - and taste pretty good, too. His company, Sean Minor Wines, produces five wine varietals with all bottles costing under $20. You can get a taste of them yourself on Saturday at Capitol Cellars (110 Diamond Creek Place, Roseville; 916-786-9030). The tasting runs from 3 p.m. - 6 p.m. and costs $10.

How does this Sacramentan craft quality wines at such affordable prices? Find out by reading an interview with Minor, who now finds his wines distributed in 24 states.

A few weeks ago, we brought you an interview with Dahlynn McKowen, co-author of "The Wine-Oh! Guide to California's Sierra Foothills." Along with her husband Ken, the two produced a 300-plus page book that covers 83 regional wineries. Now that's a lot of juice.

So, it's time to celebrate the release of the "Wine-Oh!" guide. But this won't be some typical author reading and signing at your local book emporium. This release party is going down on Sunday from 1 p.m. - 4 p.m. at David Girard Vineyards (5784 Thompson Hill Rd., Placerville). Come meet the McKowens, who've also co-authored books in the "Chicken Soup For the Soul" series," along with live music and plenty of wine for the tasting.

For more information: visit www.wineohguide.com or call 530-295-1833

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Back in February, we brought you the story of Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, a Lodi winery that specializes in German varietals. You won't find the usual zinfandel and sauvignon blanc here. This producer specializes in kerner (an off-dry white similar to reisling), lemberger (a medium-bodied red known as blaufrankish in Austria), the petite sirah-like dornfelder and other German wines that are fairly rare domestically.

Sounds interesting, right? Well, the problem was that Mokelumne Glen Vineyards didn't have a tasting room and limited retail availability. That's all changed with the opening of a tasting room in Lodi (139 S. Guild, Lodi). Hours are Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. - 5 p.m., and also by appointment. Some construction still needs to be completed, but they're still pouring away. Drop by for a taste of something different next time you're in Lodi.

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Thanksgiving's coming up soon, so let's get some quick tips about the right wines to serve with that bird and side dishes. We're checking in with Mario Ortiz, general manager and sommelier at the Firehouse, and here's his guidance about the kinds of wines that'll elevate your Thanksgiving dinner into an exceptionally tasty feast.

What wines come to mind when thinking about a traditional Thanksgiving dinner?
I like to suggest Champagne and riesling for whites, and pinot noir for red. Riesling goes beautifully with turkey. It's fresh and floral, and the stone fruit goes well with cranberry sauce or gravy. The same goes for pinot noir. And if you prefer roast beef for Thanksgiving, look for an earthy pinot noir with (flavors of) spices and rich black cherry.

How about some pairings for folks who prefer ham on the Thanksgiving table?
Something from the Loire would go beautifully. I would love to have something like a chenin blanc, but anything from the Loire is great. I'd definitely consider gewürztraminer as well because it has a little sweetness. For Champagnes and sparkling wines, go for a blanc de noirs or crémant. If you're having an early-afternoon dinner, the crémant would go incredibly with ham, yams and sweet potatoes.

How about some local wines to consider for Thanksgiving dinner?

Bogle has a nice chenin blanc. It's fruit-forward with nice apples and melon in there. Bogle's riesling is also one I like to have at home with my family.

How about a little fun and pairing a wine with pumpkin pie?
It's not easy to find, but a sparkling shiraz would be fun. Mollydooker makes one that's amazing and would be a good way to finish dinner with pumpkin pie. Late-harvest wines might be too sweet, but asti spumanti might work.


Which wine varietals or styles do you not find so Thanksgiving-friendly?

Stay away from cabernet sauvignon or Bordeaux wines. They're not going to enhance or bring out any flavors. If you're just drinking the wine first and enjoying the food as an afterthought, then sure. But if you're trying to find good harmony with the food, stay away from them.
When I see people trying a variety of foods, you should try different (wines). But if you want to enjoy one particular style, you can't go wrong with Champagne.

I'll drink to that.

Shoot, I couldn't wait to gnaw my way through some spare ribs at In Cahoots in Plymouth. I'd spent the afternoon wine tasting around the Shenandoah Valley on Sunday, and after all that primitivo and zinfandel, was ready to chomp down on some hearty barbecue. My pal and colleague Al Pierleoni always raved about In Cahoots on Main St. for its Santa Maria styled tri-tip and other barbecue fixins.

So I took a seat, checked out the menu - until a slightly glum looking waitress came over to explain that In Cahoots was shutting down as of Sunday night. But this time, spare ribs, beef ribs, hot links and other popular items were a no-go.

The server explained that the owners were simply retiring from the barbecue business. I asked if they were around so I could chat with them really quick, but no, they weren't in the building.

Well, so much for those spare ribs. Instead I ordered a combo platter of tri-tip and chicken and listened to other customers' reactions when told that In Cahoots was going to the great barbecue pit in the sky.

"What? No!" came a cry from the table next to me. "Where are we going to go now?"

My order arrived: two slabs of trip-tip and a quarter chicken on a bed of garlic fries, plus a side of baked beans. Then I dug in ... the tri-tip and chicken carried a really nice essence of smoke - not too heavy, not too understated - and the tri-tip was so juicy and tender. Yum, this was some great California styled barbecue. The pit boss smokes his meats Santa Maria style, in an open pit with red oak. Or rather, that's how it used to be cooked.

So this corner of Main St. will smell a little less smoky now, and that's too bad. We'll let you know if we hear anything more about the closing of In Cahoots.

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"Appetizers" sends a happy one-week birthday to Owen Price Nelson, the newest member of the Selland restaurant family. Owen's dad, Josh Nelson, is the general manager for Ella Dining Room and Bar, while mother Gina formerly managed the Kitchen. Baby Owen was born at 6:31 a.m. on Nov. 4, weighing 6 lbs. 9 ounces. Owen shares a middle name with Randall Selland, Josh's stepdad and executive chef at the Kitchen.

"It's been a good week," says Josh Nelson. "Mom's doing great and I'm definitely enjoying the time at home."

Could a restaurant named "Owen Dining Room and Bar" be next? Ella, after all, was named after Selland's granddaughter.

"I'm thinking more like 'Opie's Sandwich Shop,' or something simpler," says Josh, with a chuckle.

Either way, best wishes to the new family ...

Now here's a heck of a happy hour bargain. Esquire Grill (1213 K St., Sacramento; 916-448-8900) features $1 oysters on the half shell each Wednesday from 5 p.m. - 7 p.m. This seafood special's been running since October, and the restaurant went through some 200 oysters during last Wednesday's special, says Esquire Grill owner Randy Paragary. Now, that's a lot of slurping and shucking.

"This is a great time of year for oysters," says Paragary. "(Chef Scott Rose) is focusing on indigenous oysters from the north coast. The going rate for oysters is about $2.50 to $3.50 in a restaurant, so our response has been good."

Other happy hour specials include "5 cocktails, 5 wines by the glass and 5 appetizers for $6." For the full line-up, surf over to Esquire Grill's web site.

A notice of default was filed recently against the owners of Quarry Ponds, but that isn't stopping Capitol Cellars from opening a new wine bar in this Granite Bay shopping center. Capitol Cellars of Roseville is looking to open this second store by November's end. This Granite Bay location of Capitol Cellars will occupy the site of a former Wine Styles shop.

Capitol Cellars owner Marcus Graziano tested this Granite Bay market over the summer by hosting a series of wine tastings at Quarry Ponds. Judging by the response and attendance, Graziano felt confident enough to open this second location.

"We're looking forward to it," says Graziano. "We'll have a more extensive wine bar and we'll stay open late. We think it'll be fun for people to go to. We also have a lot of interest from companies who want to bring their clients by."

Graziano understands it's a tough economy, especially when you're in the business of selling premium California wines. Graziano recently dropped the price on a tasting to be held on Saturday at his Roseville shop (110 Diamond Creek Place #100). The charge was originally $100 per person, with the opportunity to taste such high-end Napa producers as Pride, Ghost Block, Pahlmeyer and nearly a dozen more wineries. Graziano got something of a reality check from customers, who said the price was too expensive and ill timed. Graziano has since dropped the price to $50 per person.

"It was a learning lesson," says Graziano. "It costs a lot of money to bring these kinds of wineries, but you have to listen to the customers. So we cut the price in half and gave the support to where it should go: to the customers. You have to take care of them and not be dishonest with them."

A few spots are still available for Saturday's tasting, which runs from 3 p.m. - 5 p.m. For more information: (916) 786-9030.

Seems like most of the local restaurant news these days covers financial woes or a place simply shutting down. But that's not true of Enotria Cafe and Wine Bar, situated near the corner of Del Paso Blvd. and Arden Way.

Groundbreaking is expected to begin in November for a remodeling and expansion project that will double Enotria's capacity to about 300 customers. Enotria currently has a small building that's set apart from its main restaurant, but plans are for that room to be connected to the main restaurant and serve as a new wine bar and retail shop. The restaurant's patio will also be extended to better accommodate weddings and other large events. Plans call for a private changing rooms to be used by would-be brides.

The restaurant is expected to remain open during the first phase of construction, which will focus on creating the new wine bar. The second phase, to include the restaurant remodel and expansion, will begin once the new wine bar is up and running.

When will Enotria 2.0 be ready for customers?

"That's the million dollar question," says Chad Seaburg, Enotria's wine director. "We would love for the wine bar to be open by Valentine's Day. It'll be a little more posh, a little louder. Hopefully we'll create a lot of buzz around town."

Corrected to include Quarry Ponds Cafe as a current tenant, not Toast

Molly Hawks says she isn't worried about her namesake restaurant flying the coop. A notice of default, the first step in the foreclosure process, was filed recently against Quarry Ponds LLC, owners of the Granite Bay shopping center which houses Hawks Restaurant.

Quarry Ponds also includes such eateries as Pizza Antica, Quarry Ponds Cafe and a Peet's Coffee as tenants.

Molly Hawks, however, plans for business to continue as usual while her landlord's financial matters are settled. And that's good news for local foodies who've come to enjoy Hawks Restaurant for its seasonal American cuisine and thoughtful wine list.

"We're just looking forward and hoping that any changes are for the best," says Hawks, who owns the restaurant with husband Michael Fagnoni. "It's been a rough year for us personally, but things are looking great for the holiday season. We're hoping that if there's a reorganization that it's an opportunity to bring in some new tenants and revitalize the center."

According to foreclosures.com, Quarry Ponds LLC is delinquent on $1,562,508 from a 2007 loan for $19.2 million.

Quarry Ponds opened in 2007 as a five-acre retail development modeled after European-style shopping centers. Hawks Restaurant has been a tenant from the start, known for its impeccable food presentation and emphasis on regionally sourced ingredients.

Yet these are tough times for independently owned restaurants, not to mention local shopping centers in general. According to research from Colliers International, the retail vacancy rate for Roseville/Rocklin shopping centers hovers at 13.6 percent - up from 13.2 percent in 2009's first financial quarter.

But for now, Molly Hawks plans to keep the meals coming.

"As far as we're concerned, we have too much invested to go anywhere," she says. "But we still need everyone to support us on a regular basis. Please think about local family businesses."

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Michael La Tondre of Fair Oaks assembled the tasting of a lifetime. On Saturday night at San Francisco's Ritz-Carlton hotel, La Tondre gathered a dozen friends - both wine aficionados and casual drinkers alike - and tasted through 14 bottles. But these weren't just any bottles. La Tondre supplied 14 bottles of French wine from 1959, or more commonly known as "the vintage of the century." And what better way to celebrate this golden anniversary than uncorking some of 1959's superstars, and pairing them with a menu by chef Ron Siegel?

We applaud La Tondre for generously sharing these wines with friends, not just treating them like cellar trophies. Also note that La Tondre is chairing the Make A Wish "Winter Wine and Food Festival" on Jan. 30. We'll keep you posted for more details on that event.

But now, sit back, relax and try not to drool. Here are La Tondre's complete tasting notes from Saturday night.

First Flight, no food

1959 Ruinart, Rose Champagne, 88 pts
This 50 year old sparkling had a copper, ice tea color with just a few bubbles lifting from the glass. The nose had crème caramel as well as iced coffee, mocha. The bouquet was complex, but the slow march of oxidation had created a Madiera nose. In the mouth, the acid was still zesty with a toasted walnut, nutty finish. The extremely fine sediment was dark brown as opposed the bread dough, yeast particles from a young Champagne. The finish on this champagne was tremendous lasting for over 40 seconds. The Ruinart Rose is unusual in that it does not achieve its rose color by extended contact with pinot noir berries, instead the Ruinart House adds fermented pinot noir wine to make this special Champagne. Ruinart is the oldest Champagne house, founded in 1729, but today is a jewel within the Louis Vuitton Moet & Hennessy luxury empire.

1959 Chateau du Suronde, Quarts de Chaume, 97 pts
First impression is an awesome, golden color with great apricot and orange in the nose. This wine had tremendous texture in the mouth as the botrytis noble rot lifted the lowly chenin blanc grape to a rich, mouth coating elixir that was totally full in the palate. In the glass it developed spice, nutmeg and candied orange peel in the bouquet. Several people regarded this as the wine of the night (WOTN) and no one had ever had a chenin blanc this delicious. The Loire region, two hours southwest of Paris, is not as famous as other regions of France, but the famous Christies Wine Auctioneer, Michael Broadbent, gave this vintage of Loire 5 Stars out of a possible 5 Stars. The yields are miniscule as 5 grape vines are needed to make one bottle of wine.

1959 Leroy, Meursault, 93 pts
If you were to try a 50 year old Chardonnay from California, it would be cooked, oxidized and way past its prime. The white wines of burgundy established chardonnay as one of the great wines of the world and Maison Leroy enjoys a reputation for making some of the longest lived wines from Burgundy. This wine had a bright yellow gold color redolent of an 8 year old chardonnay, yet the nose was significantly more complex. The acid and alcohol were in perfect balance with the refined breed and minerality of a Premiere Cru Meursault. Coffee and smoke aromas with a flinty mineral taste that persisted for 30 seconds. Meyer lemon and grilled honeydew melon.

1959 Chapoutier, Monier de la Sizeranne, 89+ pts
This Rhone from Hermitage has a long tradition of excellent wines but in the past 20 years with biodynamic farming it has climbed to one of the top three Syrah producers in France. This had Cuban cigar in the nose with bacon and smoke. The color was red with amber edges showing it was a wine of age. It had a medium mouth feel and the finish was only 20 seconds. The wine was in excellent condition but not a super star.

1959 Jaboulet, La Chapelle, 98 pts
Absolutely well preserved with a medium brick to dark red color. Tremendous nose that knocked me out. Grilled meats, great tobacco, leather. With new scents lifting each time you returned to the glass. Tremendous mouth coating wine with a full 40 second finish that has perfect balance among the acid, tannin and alcohol. This wine is not a candidate for AARP. It does not look 50 years old, it does not taste 50 years old. The balance and finesse are feminine while the nose and taste are masculine. Great complexity made this WOTN for some participants.

1959 Gruaud Larose, 93 pts
This second growth from St-Julien was the first Cabernet Sauvignon of the tasting. It was an opaque, dark red. It had coffee and mocha with mushroom. It had reached its plateau but still quite enjoyable. It was the densest, most viscous dry wine of the flight, but lacked the complexity of the La Chapelle.

Second Flight, served in stages with the menu

1959 Dom Perignon, Brut Champagne, 91 pts
The first luxury cuvee of Champagne was the 1921 Dom Perignon. So, if you are offered an older version of DP, you know it will be a fake. The 1959 DP was the real McCoy with Mick Jagger brown sugar in the nose and plenty of toasted brioche. This was not as oxidized as the Ruinart sparkling rose. The acid went well with the geoduck clam amuse bouche as well as the fatty Toro sashimi with golden osetra cavier. The DP had a great copper color and, after 50 years you could not tell any color difference from the white DP and the rose Ruinart. The finish was moderate 20 seconds.

1959 Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, 100 pts
Brilliant amber color with gold highlights. This was gorgeous, maple syrup. You could pour this Yquem on pancakes. But, it went fantastic with the Lobster and Veal cheeks. Many people prefer dessert wine with dessert. The sweetness of a dessert wine, if it has enough acid, can work wonderfully with savory food as well. Last decade Ron Siegel defeated Iron Chef Sakai in Tokyo and the theme ingredient was Lobster. Once again Chef Siegel executed a fabulous pairing. The veal-lobster reduction sauce matched the amber color of the Yquem yet one was salty and the other was sweet. This was WOTN for me as well as five other tasters. '59 Yquem will please wine aficionados even when it is over 100 years old.

1959 Comte de Vogüé, Musigny, Vieilles Vignes (Old Vines), 96 pts
Many Francophiles are smitten with red burgundies even though only a few home runs are scattered among a sea of bunts and grounders. In the rarefied air of the wine snob's wine snob you have Comte de Vogüé, Musigny, Vieilles Vignes. One of the all time great plots of land in burgundy is the Grand Cru vineyard called Musigny and the Domaine Comte de Vogüé traces family ownership over 550 years through 20 generations. 1959 was one of the truly great Red Burgundy vintages. The wine in the glass was dark red with hints of translucent brick. Initially a little barnyard in the nose but evolved into warm spice and raisins, it smelled like a Thanksgiving kitchen. Sandalwood and candied cherries as well. This was a great pinot with a medium mouth feel but great length of finish. Every time I tried it, it had a different nose, this baby was moving. Thinner viscosity in the body lost a couple of points. This old vines burgundy was paired with grilled small quail. And quail, Ron Siegel style, meant 4 legs for each dish. After the quail, retasting the Musigny VV gave off cola notes as well as coffee and pomegranate. Another fantastic food and wine pairing.

1959 La Mission Haut Brion, 99+ pts
The first Bordeaux with food. Absolute dark purple, that was opaque and inky. Gorgeous nose with cedar, lead pencil, and sweet pipe tobacco. This wine had huge flavors and stained the palate and teeth with fantastic flavors that persisted for 60 seconds. The wine was in extraordinary condition and probably would be delicious another 50 years from now. La Mission is a 2nd Growth but tonight it was my dry wine of the night. Several people also picked it as their WOTN. This wine went excellent with the lamb chop, chanterelles and potato gnocchi.

1959 Haut Brion, 99 pts
It was great to compare the Haut Brion 1st Growth with its geographical neighbor the La Mission Haut Brion 2nd Growth. They seemed to be brothers from the same family with the 1959 Haut Brion a little tougher, rustic, with more leather and a hint of truffles. It had similar cedar and lead pencil but it did not coat the mouth as intense as the LMHB. The Haut Brion had nearly the same length of finish. Historically, this is regarded as one of the all time great Bordeaux and five people voted it their WOTN.

1959 Margaux, 94 pts
This is a wine that had depth and good color, but it was a little more raisiny than the HB or LMHB. It also had a little petrol in the nose. It had a medium palate and medium finish.

1959 Lafite, 95 pts
To have some fun, this wine was served blind. Someone guessed that it was 1961 Haut Brion. Huge, motor oil, 10W40, somewhat oxidized. Some regard 1959 Lafite as the greatest wine of 1959, but this bottle was not as good a condition. Great purple color, explosive aromatics, figgy, dry, port like in texture. Two people chose it as WOTN.

1959 Latour, 98- pts
After dinner, and after dessert, a surprise wine was brought out. This wine had the characteristic power of many classic Latours with great nose and youthful flavors. Lead pencil, graphite, with blueberry compote this had excellent complexity. The finish was 30 seconds so it was not quite in the same league as the Haut Brion or LMHB but still a delicious wine. Three people chose it as WOTN. A great wine to finish the night.

October 27, 2009
Maternity watch

The newest member of the Selland restaurant family is due for arrival. Gina Funk Nelson, who manages the Kitchen, is expecting to deliver a boy just about any time now. She's married to Josh Nelson, the stepson of restaurateur Randall Selland, who manages Ella Dining Room and Bar. That's the downtown restaurant named after Selland's granddaughter.

So with the Nelson's boy on the way, could this be the inspiration to launch a new restaurant?

"Randall says we have to pick a name that's a good restaurant name," says Gina.

Meanwhile, the Kitchen has a new manager with Nelson on maternity leave. She's been replaced by Jennifer Watson, a former server at Ella who went on to manage restaurants in New Mexico include a farm-to-table favorite called The Love Apple.

"We really liked her at Ella and she has the perfect touch and warmth for the Kitchen," says Gina. "We snatched her up because of her professionalism, and the passion for food, wine, and hospitality that we value at the Kitchen. The crew and the guests really like her."

Gina doesn't plan on returning to manage the Kitchen, but will instead focus on public relations and marketing for the Selland family of restaurants while raising her baby. Husband Josh plans to take two weeks off when the baby's born, and then it's back to Ella.

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Over at L Wine Lounge and Urban Kitchen, chef Ame Harrington is back to cooking and creating menus following the birth of her daughter in June. On the day before giving birth to daughter Talulla, chef Ame had put in a hectic shift that included an offsite catering job and some work at the L. She left the restaurant around 10 p.m., and ended up delivering baby Tallula at home about three hours later. Producers of "Baby Story," are you listening?

Look for chef Ame's newest menu to reflect the fall harvest, with such items as bavette steak with heirloom squash and a pan seared pork chop with cranberry beans. We imagine Tallula won't be eating too much Gerber.

The secret wasn't so well-kept for local foodies: book a dinner at the Hidden Kitchen for a particularly unique and personable gastronomical event. For over three years, Dennis and Mary Kercher ran an underground restaurant of sorts in their Land Park home. That was until a neighbor ratted out the Kercher's - rumor has it the snitch was a local restaurateur - and the health department came calling. The Hidden Kitchen was history in April.

But you can now have Dennis Kercher's acclaimed cooking in a setting where all the proper permits are secured. Come check out his cooking classes and demonstration dinners at Whole Foods Market (4315 Arden Way, Sacramento). Look for Kercher to host a hands-on pasta making class on Nov. 22 and more culinary workshops to come. Daughter Marina Kercher, a pastry chef, runs the cooking center at this Whole Foods location.

"It was great while it lasted," said Dennis Kercher, about the Hidden Kitchen's run. "Cooking was never my full-time job. I just did it out of a love for food and wine. The next thing for us is these cooking classes and demo dinners at Whole Foods. We've got a great room in the corner of the grocery store, and it's like Disneyland for foodies."

For more information and to register for classes: Marina Kercher, culinary center coordinator, 916 488-2800 x261; Marina.kercher@wholefoods.com.

Look for a veritable house of sushi and sake coming to Roseville in mid-December. Sake House, located in the Fountains shopping center, marks a new project for local restaurateur Randy Paragary and nightclub maven Bob Simpson. The two are already behind such downtown spots as Empire and K St.'s Cosmo Cafe/Social nightclub.

Chef Billy Ngo, co-owner of Kru and the upcoming Red Lotus, is consulting on the menu. Expect some of Ngo's fondness for Japanese-inspired small plates along with such traditional fare as sushi, teriyaki and tempura. Ngo will also assemble a lengthy sake menu, true to the restaurant's name. Sake House will include DJ dancing on its menu of offerings.

Sake House marks Paragary's second entry into Roseville's restaurant scene. He currently co-owns Mas Mexican restaurant, located on Eureka Rd., with Zocalo proprietors Ernesto Jimenez and Jim Johnson.

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Let's check in with a guy who's got one of the most perceptive palates in town. That would be Michael Chandler, a certified sommelier and wine director at The Market at Pavilions. (The above pic shows Chandler during his previous stint as sommelier and manager at Enotria Restaurant and Wine Bar).

Plenty of wine events are coming up - surf over to www.sacwineregion.com and also check this space for the latest info. - so heed these quick tasting tips from Chandler. Take it away, mister sommelier:

What are some key varietals to look for when tasting wine from our region?
Lodi for me is all about the zins and the occasional viognier, (especially from) Ripken Vineyards. Amador is all about the great zinfandels, Rhone varietal reds and whites, as well as a few Italian varietal reds and whites. I love the chenin blanc, when done dry, and petite sirah that is grown in Clarksburg. Some varietals made by producers are just not worth trying, in my opinion, as they are just forcefully grown in the wrong area.

Let's say I'm feeling palate fatigue after tasting through a flight of reds. Have any tips/tricks for perking up your palate?
Get a taste of a high acid white and swish it around your mouth. Gruner veltliner and vermentino usually work to revive my palate. Currently I use the Simone Giusto 2008 Vermentino from Amador. For my nose, I usually sniff fresh coffee grounds.

What wineries do you recommend people try in Amador or El Dorado county?
My favorite is Cedarville Vineyard in Fair Play. Jonathan (Lachs) and Susan (Marks) are great people and the wines are all great. I truly love the viognier, grenache and syrah. The wines are very balanced and made with passion, and that all comes across on the palate.

How about Lodi?
Lodi is a bit more tricky. I really shy away from high alcohol table wines, but I do have a fondness for Vino Con Brio. I like the style of zinfandel and pinotage they produce. Both are at 14.5 (percent alcohol) or less, with good acid to support the alcohol.

Can you pass along some tips on etiquette in tasting rooms?
PLEASE shy away from wearing scented lotions, colognes/perfumes, or hair products. The scent can detract from the nuances you are trying to detect in the wines. Don't be afraid to ask questions, (but) be respectful of the staff. Going back to the same four wines is bad. In tasting rooms you are there to taste (a variety of wines). Oh, and leave your cell phone in the car.

Now that it's fall, what kind of wines do you favor during this time of year?
Pinot Noir. Oops, that is year around. But seriously: pinot noir, nebbiolo and older Bordeaux and domestic Cabernet Sauvignon from the cellar. This is also the time of year that I crack open a few century-plus old Madeiras to have around for a fire and a great book.

October 8, 2009
Food & wine event round-up

Friday: Bring out your inner Miles from "Sideways" (minus the angst, please) and taste pinot noir at The Market at Pavilions (515 Pavilions Lane, Sacramento; 916-929-4422). Line-up includes 2006 Domaine Arlaud, 2006 Londer, 2007 Lutea Russian River Valley (Organic) and 2007 Dutton Ranch 'Karmen Isabella' Russian River Valley. The tasting costs $10 and runs from 5 p.m. - 7 p.m.

Saturday: Get on down to Curtis Park for a wine tasting and silent auction at the Sierra 2 Center (2791 24th St., Sacramento; 916-452-3005). Whet that appetite with food from 15 local restaurants and over 50 wineries pouring their goods. Proceeds benefit the Sierra 2 Center, C.K. McClatchy High School track team and Bret Harte Elementary School. The event runs from 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. and costs $30 - $45.

Sunday: Lodi meets the bay at the Treasure Island Wine Fest. More than 200 wines are for the sampling, including selections from Klinker Brick Winery, Michael-David Winery and Harmony Wynelands. The tasting runs from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. $55 advance, $65 at door and $25 for designated drivers. For more information: www.tiwinefest.com.

Oct. 26:
Fall harvest is here, and Evan's Kitchen (57th St, Sacramento; 916-452-3896) is hosting a seasonal dinner with wine pairings. Look for a menu that includes green apple and poached pear soup, winter savory salad with grilled apples and charbroiled duck. $59.95. Call for reservations.

October 6, 2009
See Mai Pham in Berkeley

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Are you a fan of Mai Pham's cooking and her Lemon Grass Cafe? Looking for an excuse to hit Berkeley for an afternoon? Well, you're doubly stoked. Mai Pham is visiting UC Berkeley on Oct. 14 for a presentation on low-calorie, yet tasty cooking. She'll prepare dishes based on House Tofu Shirataki Noodles, the sponsor of the event, at the home of the Bears. Dr. Melina Jampolis, CNN's diet and nutrition expert, will also share strategies for healthy eating. The event runs from 12 p.m. - 2 p.m. and is free. Space is limited so RSVP now to: HouseTofu@dcinyc.com

Talking about the Sacramento County Public Health department in terms of the local restaurant scene generally means one thing: a restaurant got shut-down because of health code violations. Remember last week's incident with the Zagat winning La Bonne Soupe?

Now here's a twist. Jalapenos (1413 21st St., Sacramento; 916-492-0727) is being recognized by Sacramento County Public Health for the restaurant's 100% smoke-free patio dining area. That's right, if you want to cap that burrito with a Marlboro light, you've got to go somewhere else, pal.

"Second hand smoke is a known human carcinogen, meaning there is no safe level of exposure - even when outdoors," said Dr. Glennah Trochet, Sacramento County public health officer, in a statement. "Smoke free outdoor dining policies help protect the health of patrons and restaurant workers."

Going smoke-free also means a bonus today for the frijoles-loving hordes. An event recognizing Jalapenos' smokeless policy runs from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. tonight, and the first 15 customers who ask for patio seating will receive dinner coupons. Also look for raffles and prizes during that time, along with a booth geared toward those who want to quit smoking.

By Chris Macias
cmacias@sacbee.com

A group of local animal rights activists are fed up with foie gras being offered on the Firehouse's menu. A protest is planned for 6 p.m. today in front of the Old Sacramento eatery, with a dozen activists planning to wave signs and distribute flyers which detail the cruelty behind this delicacy made from duck and goose liver.

The protest is being organized by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals, Sacramento Animal Rights Group and the Animal Protection and Rescue League.

"We would love to embarrass the restaurant for their lack of compassion," said Linda Middlesworth, a protest co-ordinator. "It's an animal issue of extreme cruelty. (To make foie gras) you take a large pipe and stuff it down their throats to engorge their livers. It's all about greed, and gluttony and money."

Middlesworth and other activists first contacted the Firehouse last month to ask that foie gras be removed from the menu. They also visited the restaurant in person to express their grievances.
Despite the protests, the Firehouse plans to keep foie gras as a food option.

"The foie gras featured on our menu is produced in Sonoma and meets state and federal standards," said a press release from the Firehouse. "More importantly, it meets the Firehouse standard for quality, flavor and freshness. Our chefs selected our supplier, Artisan Sonoma Foie Gras, because of their commitment to quality and their artisan techniques in producing foie gras. The ducks are free range."

Middlesworth and other activists plan to protest more local restaurants which serve foie gras. Cafe Rolle in east Sacramento has already been picketed, and Grange Restaurant is being eyed as an upcoming protest site.

"We're going to keep doing this over and over," said Middlesworth.

Call Bee food and wine writer Chris Macias, (916) 321-1253.

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The Great American Beer Festival, held this past weekend in Denver, featured some 3,300 beers vying for honors. And when the last suds were sipped and winners announced, two Sacramento breweries emerged with honors.

Rubicon Brewing Company (2004 Capitol Ave., Sacramento; 916-448-7032) won a silver medal in the "other strong beer" category for a Winter Wheat Wine. Nice work, folks ...

Sacramento Brewing Company (2713 El Paseo Ln., Sacramento; 916-485-4677) nabbed a bronze medal in the "Belgian and French-Style Ale" category for a beer called Collaborative Evil.

"It's a Belgian style golden ale that was a project with eight other breweries," says Peter Hoey (pictured above), brewmaster at Sacramento Brewing Company. "It's a very dry beer but still has a nice full mouthfeel. The aroma is really complex, but subtle. There's pear and stone fruits, with a mild spicy finish. It's just really smooth and easy to drink."

Apparently the judges agreed, and doesn't a sip of Collaborative Evil sound good right now? The downside is that Sacramento Brewing Company is currently sold out of the Collaborative Evil, but some may be available for a future tasting. Stay tuned ...

September 29, 2009
Recipes from Patrick Mulvaney

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Hope you saw Sunday's story about Patrick Mulvaney, the Sacramento chef and locavore legend. As a bonus, we've got some recipes from Mulvaney with ingredients that can be found at local farmers markets. Even better, they aren't too tough to recreate at home. Enjoy!

Easy California Gazpacho

Ingredients:

4 Ripe, ripe tomatoes, cut into 1 inch chunks
1 medium cucumber, cut likewise
3 Garlic cloves
½ red onion, sliced
Juice from one lemon or lime
Olive Oil
Salt
Pepper

Procedure:
Squeeze the tomatoes and add the next four ingredients to a blender. Three pinches of salt, 4 grinds of pepper put the lid on and turn it on. As it starts to smooth out drizzle in olive oil, probably about 2-4 ounces. Turn the machine off and taste, checking for salt & pepper. (Remember, you can always add more.) You can put some more oil in if you want to make it taste richer.

Refrigerate until ready to serve; can garnish with an extra drizzle of oil or some basil.
If you like things spicy you can throw a jalapeno into the blender when you make the soup. Serve, sit back and enjoy the soup and the compliments.

Summery Bledsoe Pork
Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
24 oz Bledsoe (or other) Boneless Pork Loin
Egg wash (2 cups seasoned flour, 6 eggs beaten with equal part water, 2 cups breadcrumbs)
1 lb. linguine, cooked al dente
2 ears of roasted corn, kernels removed
1 onion, diced
1 basket of cherry tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
1 bunch fresh oregano/thyme

Butter, oil, salt, pepper

Procedure:
Slice pork in 2 oz slices and run through egg wash. Heat large skillet, add oil and cook pork, browning on both sides (about 2 minutes). Transfer to a sheet pan and finish in oven. Wipe pan clean and sauté onion in butter until soft and golden, add garlic and corn kernels. Sauté until onions are translucent. Add tomatoes, oregano, salt & pepper. Add cooked linguine. Stir well. Serve & enjoy!!

Strawberry Sorbet
Makes about one quart

Ingredients:

One pint of really ripe Strawberries
3 cups of simple syrup (recipe follows)
1 egg for testing
Ice cream mixer

Procedure:

To make simple syrup bring equal parts of sugar and water together in a pot bring to a boil over high heat until the liquid clears. Transfer to different container. This can be stored in the refrigerator for a week.

Take green tops off strawberries (called Hulling) and puree in a mixer. Put in a narrow container, add an equal amount of simple syrup and mix thoroughly. Wash one egg and float in mixture. When part exposed above base is between the size of a dime and quarter the sorbet is ready for churning. Follow the instructions for your ice cream machine, transfer to the freezer or enjoy straight out of the churn!


September 25, 2009
Round-up of food/wine events

Looking for a food-related day trip, or just other culinary stuff to do? Check out this round-up:

Sunday: Ever had a hankering to learn about making wine at home? Attend a class, hosted by the Italian Center (6821 Fair Oaks Blvd. Carmichael), which will show you how ordinary grape juice can be transformed into wine. The class also includes antipasti and dessert, with instructions and recipes to take home. $25. For more information: 916-482-5900.

Oct. 3: Do you love beer? Do you love wine, too? Well shoot, they've got all your bases covered at the California Beer & Wine Festival in Yuba City. Tickets run $25 online at www.californiabeerandwinefestival.com or $30 at the door. Look for suds from Lost Coast Brewery, North Coast Brewing Company (hope they're pouring the Brother Thelonious ale), Rubicon and many more.


Oct. 10 - 11:
Take a stroll down the Sierra Oro Farm Trail in Butte County, where farm-to-table food and wine awaits you on "Passport Weekend." Participating wineries include Gale Vineyards, Long Creek Winery, Grey Fox Vineyards and more. "Passport Weekend" runs from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. on Oct. 10 - 11 and tickets cost $25 online @ www.sierraoro.org.

Oct. 17: Whew, it's feeling a little chili out there. And on Oct. 17, Woodbridge Winery (5950 East Woodbridge Rd., Acampo) will be hosting the Chili Appreciation Society International (CASI) California State Championship Chili Cook-off. Think you've got the best chili in the Golden State? Call (209) 365-8139 or visit www.woodbridgewines.com for entry information. The event runs from 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. and also includes a car show and plenty of food/drink for sale. Rolaids not included.


Have a hankering to hear some Haydn while scarfing on a turkey sandwich? Well, head to Rancho Cordova's City Hall (2729 Prospect Park Dr., Rancho Cordova) for "Chamber in Chambers." This lunchtime event, which will run each Wednesday through the end of September, features musicians from the Sacramento Philharmonic Orchestra playing chamber music inside the city hall's lobby. And if you go, be sure to buy some of the food on site. Jamba Juice will be selling turkey and veggie wraps, salads, chips and fruit smoothies - and 20 percent of the proceeds will go toward the city of Rancho Cordova.

"The Wednesday lunches in September are another way we are being creative about generating new revenues in challenging fiscal times," said Lorianne Ulm of the Rancho Cordova Planning Department, in a press release.

"Chamber in Chambers" runs from 11 a.m. - 1 p.m. For more information: 916-851-8755.

BTW, can I request "Summa for Strings" by Arvo Part to go with my smoothie?

September 15, 2009
Jimador coming to Sacramento

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Ajua! Mexican Independence Day lands on Wednesday, and as part of the local celebrations an honest-to-goodness jimador is coming to town. We're not talking about El Jimador, the tequila brand, but an actual jimador who harvests agave plants. Cutting off the leaves from a large agave plant is tricky stuff, requiring the use of a hoe-like device called a coa de jima. Jose Cortes, the head jimador for the Herradura and El Jimador brands, will demonstrate how all this agave harvesting is done. Here's where you can find Cortes this week:

Wednesday, September 16
6-9 p.m.
Zocalos (1801 Capitol Avenue, Sacramento, CA)

Thursday, September 17
6-9 p.m.
Centro's (2730 J Street, Sacramento, CA)

Friday, September 18
5-7 p.m.
La Superior (5731 Hillsdale Blvd, Sacramento, CA)

Friday, September 18
8-10 p.m.
Carmelita's (4071 Howard Street, Fair Oaks, CA)

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'Twas just about two years ago that Ella Dining Room & Bar (1131 K St.; 916-443-3772) opened its doors. And now, the Selland family wants the hungry Sacramento masses to celebrate with them. So the restaurateurs have put together a special anniversary menu which runs next Tuesday through Saturday. Also look for 1/2 off prices on "Ella Signature Cocktails" next Tuesday, the restaurant's official two year anniversary.

For those who haven't dined lately at Ella, annivesary week is a good chance to sample from the new executive chef, Kelly McCown. The overall food style has been tweaked slightly, with more of an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and thoughtfulness toward food and wine pairings. If the rock shrimp with watermelon salad is still on the menu, go for that and a glass of gruner veltliner to see what I mean.

Or you could just try the anniversary prix fixe menu, which costs $50 per person for three courses and dessert. Here's what chef McCown will be serving:

Salad of Maine Lobster
Creamy Hazelnut Vinaigrette, Pickled Celery Root,
Poached Egg and Applewood Smoked Bacon

Wild and Tame Mushroom Canneloni

Fromage Blanc and Parmesan Cream
Braised Beef Short Ribs

Creamed Bloomsdale Spinach, Truffle Sauce
"Gratin" of Early Fall Turnips

Maple Crème Brulee Tarte
Chocolate Ice Cream and Vanilla Sauce

In the end, the snails did in Jesse Sandlin. She was Sacramento's great "Top Chef" hope, a veteran of such local restaurants as Esquire Grill, Spataro Restaurant and Lucca Restaurant and Bar. She's since moved back to her native Baltimore, but still boasts a big rooting section here in Sacramento.

But Jesse got the boot on last night's episode of "Top Chef," after losing a "quickfire challenge" that required the contestants to cook escargot for a high powered judging panel that included Daniel Boulud and Joel Robuchon. Truth is, many viewers probably saw this coming. Jesse was among the bottom contestants after challenges in earlier episodes. (Remember her soup with all the cayenne pepper?)

The other Sacramento connection to "Top Chef" fared much better. That would be Kevin Gillespie, who once worked as sous chef under Michal Tuohy at Atlanta's Woodfire Grill. (Tuohy now serves as executive chef at downtown Sac's Grange Restaurant). Gillespie won last night's escargot challenge, and was not only given immunity from elimination, but donned a suit and was invited to dine and judge his fellow contestants with Robuchon and others. Score!

But Jesse, we still salute you from the River City. Congrats on making it so far on "Top Chef," and come cook for us in Sacramento some time. Ya hear?

The 2009 California State Fair is now but a memory, so it's farewell to deep-fried Twinkies spins on the Tilt-A-Whirl and free admission by wearing MC Hammer pants. And like every year, the California State Fair Wine Garden was a hit, with folks getting a chance to sample award winning wines from the fair's Commercial Wine Competition before, say, hitting up a petting zoo.

And here's another chance to sample some of the fair's winning wines. Evan's Kitchen (855 57th Street, Sacramento) is hosting a dinner on Sept. 14 that pair's the fair's "best of show" wines with four courses and dessert. The cost is $59.95 per person. To reserve a spot: (916) 452-3896.

Here's the "best of show" menu:

First Course:
Basque Veggie Kabobs
with Key Lime Sauce
Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noir

Second Course:
Mango and Red Onion Shrimp Salad
with Grapefruit and Lime Vinaigrette
RB Cellars Serenade de Blanc '07

Third Course:
Chicken Tenderloin*
in a Port and Raisin Sauce
Bixler '07 Delta Union Island Red

Fourth Course:
Minty Lamb Lasagna* (vegetarians can request "no meat")
Bloomfield Cabernet Sauvignon '07

Dessert:
Chocolate and Orange Torte
with Mango Coulis
Renwood Muscat

Attention: local food banks need your soup cans, and the Cheesecake Factory is looking to sweeten the deal. Look on Thursday for the "Drive Out Hunger" tour truck parked in front of Roseville's Cheesecake Factory (1127 Galleria Blvd., Roseville). The first 500 people who drop off soup cans will receive a complimentary slice of Stefanie's Ultimate Red Velvet Cake Cheesecake (tm). This "Drive Out Hunger" event, which seeks to collect 100,000 cans on a 30-city tour, runs on Thursday morning from 7 a.m. - 10 a.m.

September 2, 2009
Jamie's just on vacation

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Got a message from a reader who drove by Jamie's Broadway Grille (427 Broadway, Sacramento), and noticed a fat padlock on the front door. Had the venerable house of steak sandwiches, as featured on the Food Network's "Diners, Drive-ins and Dives," shuttered for good? Well, you and your garlic breath can breathe easy. Jamie's is simply closed this week for vacation. Whew ... so come 11 a.m. Monday, you can contend for a table or seat at the bar, order one of those steak sandwiches or perhaps a bowl of clam chowder, and chow down. This is about as good as lunch gets in Sacramento - just beware of a food coma when you get back to work.

Slow food, it's not just for your favorite restaurant. At least, that's what the organizers of Slow Food USA's "Time For Lunch" campaign have to say. The Child Nutrition Act, which funds and legislates the National School Lunch Program, is up for reauthorization at the end of September. The "Time For Lunch" campaign says that schools can do better by serving foods that utilize local growers and other farm-to-table practices.

Bledsoe pork instead of mystery meat for school lunch? Sounds good by me.

To promote this slow-food in school lunches campaign, a potluck will be held on Sept. 7 at Tahoe Park (3501 59th St., Sacramento). Along with plenty of heirloom tomato dishes, the event will also include games for kids, music and speakers.

Want to participate in the potluck? RSVP here.

Last week we told you about a Sacramento connection to "Top Chef." That would be Jesse Sandlin, a "Top Chef" contestant who's a Baltimore native but cut her proverbial cooking teeth at such Sacramento restaurants as Esquire Grill, Spataro Restaurant and Lucca Restaurant and Bar.

Well, turns out she's not the local tie to "Top Chef." I received an e-mail from Michael Tuohy, executive chef at downtown's Grange Restaurant. Before coming to Sacramento last year, Tuohy was owner and executive chef of Atlanta's Woodfire Grill. Back then, "Top Chef" contestant Kevin Gillespie served as Tuohy's chef de cuisine, and has since risen to Woodfire Grill's executive chef and partner.

Tuohy's rooting for his former chef de cuisine, and thinks he's got a great shot at emerging as the "Top Chef."

"Kevin is a very talented young man with solid technical skills and a good sensibility about food as well as a great palate," says Tuohy. "It's fun to watch him grow as a chef, and I like his chances very much."

BTW, check out chef Tuohy's very tasty "Frontburner" blog

Jesse Sandlin once cooked in Sacramento's kitchens, but can she handle the heat in "Top Chef?" We'll soon find out, as Season 6 of the popular reality TV show kicked off last week.

The 30-year-old chef is a Baltimore native, but Sandlin's resume includes cooking stints at Sacramento's Esquire Grill, Spataro Restaurant and Lucca Restaurant and Bar. Sandlin's since returned to Charm City, where she serves as executive chef for Baltimore's Abacrombie Fine Foods. But the self-taught chef is well remembered back in Sacramento, where she was mentored by chefs Andrew Tescher and Kurt Spataro.

"When she first came to work for us, she was a line cook and worked her way up to sous chef," says Spataro. "She had a great work ethic and was very colorful with lots of personality. She's well tattooed and pierced. She was just a great spirit and very eager to learn and grow. I'm hoping she goes all the way."

Lucca's since become a spot where Sandlin's Sacramento pals come to watch "Top Chef" and root her on. But how will Sandlin fare against the other "Top Chef" would-bes, not to mention the tough comments from judges that could make a chef wilt? Stay tuned ...

Meanwhile, peep this video clip of Jesse from "Top Chef's" web site

August 25, 2009
Kids eat free @ IHOP

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Say it with me, especially if you have kids: I hop, you hop, we all hop to IHOP

IHOP restaurants are offering a late-summer "kids eat free" special. Here's how it works: Parents, go to your friendly neighborhood IHOP, and you get a free Kid's Meal with the purchase of each entree. This offer is good from 4 p.m. - 10 p.m. daily, and applies to kiddos 12 and younger. This freebie is good until Sept. 13, so take advantage while you can.

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We like to think that every month is "wine month," but Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger has officially declared September as California Wine Month. It's a recognition of California's wine industry and its impact on the economy. So how does the wine business contribute to the health of our fine state? Consider these facts:

- California wine generates 820,000 jobs nationally, and 330,000 in California alone.
- 21 million tourists visit California's wine regions annually
- California's wine industry produces 90 percent of the wine sold nationally; California is also the fourth largest wine producer in the world.

"Our wineries attract tourism and provide countless jobs for Californians," said Governor Schwarzenegger in a statement. "Many are also committed to serving their communities and promoting socially and environmentally responsible farming practices."

Look for plenty of events and specials related to "California Wine Month" in September. Here's one you can count on: Gonul's (3839 J St., Sacramento) will be hosting a winemaker dinner on Sept. 13 to commemorate "National Wine Month." Look for a four-course dinner with California wine pairings for $42 a head. For a coupon and more information, visit Gonul's web site.


This week's "Wine Buzz" captured the scene from last week's casting call of "The Winemakers" at 58 Degrees & Holding Co. 15 hopefuls, some of whom waited for up to four hours to land their audition, were vying for the final slot on this show. But that honor went to Tammi Ramsey, who traveled from Fremont to audition and secure her spot for season 2 of "The Winemakers," an upcoming reality show on PBS.

We got a phone call from Tammi, who's already survived the first round of eliminations on the show, and will be off for filming in France in about a month. Tammi can't divulge much of how the taping's going - you know how non-disclosure agreements can go - but overall she's very stoked.

Tammi moved to California from Indiana about four years ago to chase her dream of becoming a winemaker. By day she's a recruiter in the financial industry, but much of her spare time is dedicated to making vino. She's also studied winemaking at UC Davis.

"It was a hobby that turned into an obsession pretty quickly," she says.

If Tammi survives the show's challenges and emerges as the winning winemaker, she'll have an opportunity to launch her own label and ship 15,000 cases of the wine. But making it to the finish line will be tough, with a pool of competitors who come from all aspects of the wine industry.

"I think I'll do well," says Tammi. "I don't come from the wine industry, so I think I bring a fresh perspective. I would love to last three or four more eliminations, but making it even this far is a true blessing."

Follow her on Twitter @grapejuiceone

Sorry about the lack of posts on this end. I've been in Boston for the past week, and a quick tip of the glass to Troquet's wine bar, which is located across the street from Boston Common. Troquet's by-the-glass program rocked - we're talking a list that includes Krug, d' Yquem and plenty of other great selections on its list.

Speaking of wine lists, just found out that Sacramento just about dunked on the competition in the second annual Best California Wine List Competition, co-sponsored by the California Restaurant Association and the Wine Institute.

The Firehouse Restaurant won first place in the category for companies with less than 10 locations and annual revenue of $1 million or more.

The Melting Pot, which includes a franchise in Sacramento, nabbed top honors in the category for restaurant companies with 10 or more outlets.

California Café in Los Gatos won for restaurant companies with less than 10 locations and annual revenue of less than $1 million.

Could Sacramento's dominance in the competition be due to the judging panel? Such locals as Darrell Corti, Joe Vacarro from Ella Dining Room & Bar, and former Sacramento Bee food editor Mike Dunne were all part of the panel. Either way, the judges were looking for wine programs with a comittment to showcasing California wines. Competitors were also required to submit an essay to detail more about their wine program.

Congrats to the winners, especially those from the River City.

News flash: three guys are having a beer tonight. Sounds pretty ordinary, save that the fellas tossing back a cold one are President Obama, Harvard professor Henry Louis Gates Jr. and Sgt. Joseph Crowley of the Cambridge, Mass. police department.

If you don't know the back story, Gates was arrested by Crowley in a case of mistaken burglary. President Obama remarked that police had "acted stupidly," Crowley responded with bitter beer face, and the whole case stoked the powder keg of race relations. Can't we all just get along? Well sure, and it helps if the cooling down session involves beer. So President Obama invited Gates and Crowley to the White House to knock back a cold one while hopefully finding common ground.

President Obama reportedly opted for a Bud Light, while Gates chose Red Stripe and Crowley was good with a Blue Moon.

What did local suds lovers think of this so-called beer summit? Watch the above video and find out

July 24, 2009
A drink of Drank

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Work's been a little hectic lately, so it's a recent Saturday night and I'm decompressing at home. The time's arrived to pop a can of Drank that's chilling in the refrigerator.

Drank's billed as an "anti-energy" drink, with calming powers to "slow your roll." Think of it as Red Bull in reverse. But does Drank really provide a carbonated dose of mellowness, or is it just snake oil in a purple can?

But first, some background - especially if you're not up on southern hip-hop culture.

Listen to songs by Three 6 Mafia, Paul Wall, Lil Wayne and you'll hear references to "drank," a potent mixture of soda, codeine cough syrup and Jolly Rancher candies. Also known as "purple drank," "sizzurp" and "lean," this concoction inspired a sub-genre of hip-hop called "chopped and screwed," where music slows down to woozy tempos and reflects life at half speed.

The underground version of this drink can be lethal. Houston's DJ Screw, a pioneer of the "chopped and screwed" movement, died at the age of 29 following an overdose of alcohol and codeine.

So the purple can now found nationally at 7-11 stores is a legal version of "drank," which sells for around $2. You won't find codeine in Drank, a product from Houston's Innovative Beverage Group. Drank's "slow your roll" properties are purportedly from such active ingredients as melatonin, valerian root and rose hips.

And yes, on this night I could use some slow in my roll. So I cued up a re-mix of Mike Jones' "Still Tippin'" and opened my can of Drank.

The taste wasn't bad at all, something like 7-Up mixed with a grape Flintstones vitamin. Compared to medicinal taste of many energy drinks, the crisp and lightly sweet flavor of Drank is cool by me.

So I drank my 16 oz. can of Drank, hoping to feel legally chopped and screwed, or at least a little sleepy. And then I drank some more.

90 minutes later I'm on the couch watching "Saturday Night Live" and feeling, well, pretty normal. I'm certainly not amped up, but the sandman doesn't seem to be knocking on my eyelids either. It's been a relaxing evening, though not really out of the ordinary.

I did slept pretty hard that night, which may or may not be due to Drank. I like the idea of Drank being hip-hop's answer to hot milk, but wish it would've wound me down much more.

The Jonas Brothers have their own lunch box, 3-D movie, legions of screaming fans ... and now the teen-poppers have their own menu at the Hard Rock Cafe. But this "Lines, Vines & Trying Times" menu is about more than just grubbing on a cheeseburger in the JoBros' name. $5 from each menu will be donated to the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, a cause close to Nick Jonas' heart. The 16-year-old pop star was diagnosed with diabetes in 2005. He wrote a song about this fight, "A Little Bit Longer," which is guaranteed to generate some tiny tears in the audience when played live.

So here's the deal: "Lines, Vines & Trying Times" is a $20 prix fixe menu that includes a choice of a cheeseburger, veggie burger, honey mustard grilled chicken sandwich or caesar salad, plus a drink. And here's the bonus: each order from this special menu comes with two raffle tickets to win an autographed Jonas Brothers guitar. (Cue a teen scream of, "Eeeeeeeyaaaagh!")

The menu runs through July 30, and the raffle winner will be announced by Aug. 4. Good luck, and happy eating at the Hard Rock.

Might as well call this tasting "Napa on 20." So here's the scoop: Lounge on 20 (050 20th St.) is hosting a Napa wine tasting on Aug. 12 from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. Sounds like a fun event, and I'm not just saying this because The Bee's www.sacwinergion.com is one of the sponsors. For one, some groovy jazz tunes will be performed by the Mat Marucci Trio as folks sip away. Lounge on 20's kitchen will also be cranking out some edibles, and look for special sale prices on the wines. As for the Napa wineries to be featured, here are some currently on board for the event:

Pine Ridge Vineyards
Merryvale Winery
Foley Wine
Luna Vineyards
Rubicon Estate
Flora Springs
... and about a half-dozen more.

Tickets are $25 through loungeon20.com, or $30 at the door. See you there ...

Hawks Restaurant in Granite Bay has a shot at being featured on "LIVE! with Regis and Kelly" next week. But, food-eating people of Sacramento, this appearance won't be possible without your help. Hawks is one of the contenders for the show's "Ultimate Hometown Grill Off," featuring recipes from chefs around the good 'ol U.S.A. Hawks has entered with a maple brined pork chop with grilled peaches, but will go mano a mano with pork recipes from four other contestants.

So here's the deal: log on to www.LiveRegisandKelly.com and follow the link to to the "Ultimate Hometown Grill Off." Videos are posted from Hawks and the other contestants, and look for a "vote now" button. The top vote-getter will then get flown to New York City next week and demonstrate the recipe on the show. Note: voting closes on Sunday @ 7 a.m. and registration is required to vote.

Happy clicking, and good luck to Hawks.

We've been thinking a lot about hot dogs over here, and not just because July is National Hot Dog Month. My colleague and Counter Culture columnist, Al Pierleoni, recently became my new BFF after bringing me an amazing Chicago-style hot dog from Heavenly Dog in Elk Grove. Read my pal Al's review of Heavenly Dog soon in "Counter Culture," which runs each Friday in the Bee's Ticket section.

And here's another reason to say "hooray!" for hot dogs: All Wienerschnitzel outlets are giving away a free chili dog on Tuesday from 5 p.m. - 8 p.m. Or if you aren't down with chili dogs, Wienerschnitzel you can opt for a free Tastee Freez small cone. Apparently, July also doubles as National Ice Cream Month. Yay for marketing maneuvers disguised as national holidays!

Who nabbed "best of show" honors at this year's California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition? Get those results live while I Twitter from Grape & Gourmet, the wine and food feast to be held at the Sacramento Convention Center. I'll also be sipping some of the award-winning wines and sending tweets with my tasting notes. Come follow along @chris_macias.

Also, don't forget to check our database of winners from the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition. We've listed all the winners, save for the "best of show" awards which will be announced tomorrow. Check it out, and see you at Grape & Gourmet ...

June 25, 2009
State Fair Wine Winners

The judges sipped and swirled wines for three days, and winners are now known. 562 wineries earned medals at the California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition, held from June 10 to June 12 at Cal Expo.

Gold medal winners included such area wineries as Michael-David Winery, Jeff Runquist Wines and Madrona Vineyards. A database of winners, except for five "best of show" awards, is available soon at www.sacwineregion.com/resources.

The "best of show" wines will be announced on July 9 at Grape & Gourmet, a food and wine festival at the Sacramento Convention Center.

The judging task was enough to test anyone's taste buds. More than 60 judges collectively sampled 20,000 glasses of wine to determine winners.

The competition celebrates California's wine industry, which is worth an estimated $30 billion. 607 wineries from around the state entered more than 2,600 bottles of wine.

Winning an award is about more than just bragging rights. Nabbing a gold medal or other top award can boost a wine's bottom line.

"It's one of those things where it's always good to win, but what (an award) does do is bring people into your tasting room," says Paul Bush, co-owner and winemaker of Madrona Vineyards, an El Dorado County winery that won a gold award for its cabernet sauvignon. "You never quite know how you're going to do. You just make the style of wine you believe in."

Such varietals as petite sirah and sparkling wines showed especially well this year, said chief judge G.M. "Pooch" Pucilowski. Some 300 wineries are expected to pour their winning wines at Grape & Gourmet.

"You can walk anywhere, close your eyes, stick out your wine glass and you're guarnateed to get a medal winning wine," says Pucilowski. "You can't beat it."

Did you all read about Darrell Corti's recent trip to Chile? Our local gourmand and grocer returned Monday from this eight-day trip, but not after a trek full of visits to Chile's wine country and olive orchards, plus plenty of seafood dinners and may glasses of pisco sours. A crew from the Sacramento-based oodleboxtv.com also made the trip to shoot video for a possible TV or Internet show. But in the meantime, you can check out a blog about this trip, with postings by Corti Brothers store director Rick Mindermann. Lots of good stuff here, so surf on over for a taste of the Chilean trip ...

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Ella Dining Room & Bar will soon have someone new wearing it's executive chef coat. David English, the executive chef at Ella since its 2007 opening, is leaving the downtown restaurant come mid-July.

English's first stop will be Italy, and then he's got some big plans back home in Sacramento.

"I'm taking a couple months off to travel through Italy," says English, a native of Davis. "I want to get some inspiration and enjoyment in their culinary arts and get re-energized. Then I'm looking to come back and look at opening my own place. I certainly want to be a part of midtown."

The Selland restaurant family, the proprietors behind Ella, are conducting a national search for English's replacement and already trying out chefs. Will Ella's ever popular pappardelle pasta with poached egg remain on the menu? We'll have to stay tuned for that, and will let you know when the new executive chef is named.

"It's been a huge pleasure to lead that kitchen and cook for people in Sacramento," says English. "I wish them luck in their search. I think they'll find someone who'll continue what we're doing."

Want to see what a $1.5 million wine tasting room looks like? Then check out the grand opening festivities going down this Saturday and Sunday at Naggiar Vineyards in Grass Valley (18125 Rosemary Lane, Grass Valley; 530-268-9059). This 3,600 square foot facility features plenty of wine tasting for the public, plus an events center and covered patio for outdoor sipping. Plenty of activities are on the grand opening weekend menu, including live music, prize drawings and a ribbon cutting ceremony at 2 p.m. Saturday. The festivities run from 12 p.m. - 5 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Regular tasting room hours will be Friday through Monday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. For more information and directions: www.naggiarvineyards.com.

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Now being served at the Old Sugar Mill: a set of new owners.

Koy Builders of Pomona, Ca. has taken over ownership of the Clarksburg tourist destination, which currently hosts tasting rooms for six local wineries.

The Old Sugar Mill's previous owners are Clarksburg Investment Partners, headed by local wine proprietor John Carvalho Jr. This Clarksburg company started renovations on the 75-year-old sugar mill in 2000.

Current tenants of the Old Sugar Mill include Todd Taylor Wines, Heringer Estates, Carvalho Family Winery, the Solomon Wine Company, Three Wines and Clarksburg Wine Company.

"Our owners have an inherent appreciation of and sensitivity toward the historic nature of Old Sugar Mill and its place in Clarksburg both past and present," said John Beckman of Koy Builders, in a statement. "We very much look forward to working with John Carvalho, and building on the good works he has already accomplished here."

Beckman's background in the wine industry includes stints in winery operations and marketing. He holds a degree in enology from the University of California, Davis.

So what might this ownership change mean for local wine lovers? Likely not much, at least for now.

"Things will probably go along as they were," said Duke Heringer of Heringer Estates, a longtime Old Sugar Mill tenant. "We're hoping for the best, and that we don't get stung with any increase in our lease. But the Old Sugar Mill's been great for us. We're seeing our (visitor) traffic increase every year. To be able to do a retail shop in a nice galleria has done us quite well."

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Sacramento recently played host to a unique tasting of Forman cabernet sauvignon. 17 vintages of this somewhat underrated wine were sampled (1983-1999), plus some examples from 2002, 2004-06. Proprietor Ric Forman himself attended the tasting himself, and you can read more about how the night went in today's "Wine Buzz" column.

Here are my tasting notes from the night. And yes, this was some serious wine geek-dom:

1983: The first vintage under Forman's own label. First bottle was flawed; back-up bottle showed better. Certainly not in its prime, but showing a nice rosey color and still some vibrancy in the fruit.

1984: Elegant style but somewhat restrained nose. Berry fruit still showing after all these years. Would've liked to have tasted this 5+ years ago.

1985: Now this is what Forman's all about. Fantastic structure, solid fruit with secondary tobacco and earthy flavors. Would guess this as top-notch Bordeaux in a blind tasting. Ric Forman remembered this vintage as "lean and mean," and the 1985 is still rocking. Earned WOTN (a.k.a. "wine of the night") for myself and many others at the tasting. Paid about $60 for this on winebid.com just a few months ago. A steal.

1986: Herbal qualities of mint and eucalyptus prominent here, a style you rarely see anymore with California cabernet sauvignon. Too bad. Enjoyed the subtelties of this vintage.

1987: Struck me as a little tougher and more austere than the other wines so far. Nose had some funk that needed to blow off, but this wine has clearly made it through the long haul. Mike Dunne, former food and wine editor for the Bee, picked the 1987 as one of his favorite vintages at this tasting.

1988: Pleasing nose with a nice smokey quality. The brightness and acidity of this wine was memorable.

1989: Youthful purple color and savory nose. Still boasting solid structure and good berry fruit.

1990: A transition year to a riper style for Forman. Grapes hung on the vine longer than previous years, and it showed. Youthful color and tasty core fruit. Firm tannic grip. Liked this one, and earned WOTN honors from Marcus Marquez, owner of L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen.

1991: Great vintage and still a great wine from Forman. Remarkable structure, oak integration and nice tannic grip. Tasty plum fruit with secondary notes of cedar. Food friendly, but also a wine to sip and ponder on its own.

1992: Softer and more resolved tannins than the 1990 and 1991. Still pleasing, and good with bites of steak.

1993: Brought this wine as my contribution to the tasting. Harkened more to the Bordeaux style of 1980s-era Forman. Ric Forman called 1993 a tough vintage, and the overall fruit profile was less ripe than hoped for. Still a firm acidity and bite to this wine.

1994: My hand-written notes say, "NICE!" Noted vintage for California cabernet overall, and this bottle was showing beautifully. Gorgeous aromatics. Core fruit remains strong, structure firmly intact and would love to re-visit this wine. Perhaps my second favorite wine of the night. Paid about $60 for this about a year ago on winebid.com.

1995: No notes on this one. Sorry, think I was still being bowled over by the 94.

1996: Wonderful plummy aromatics. Slightly softer in style than the 94 and 91, but a notable sense of elegance. Prominent fruit without being overpowering. Surprised with how much I ended up liking the 96.

1997: Vintage noted for its ripeness and upfront pleasures. That held true for the 97 Forman. Darker nose of violets and licorice was different than other bottles so far. More of a brooding, dense wine with loads of dark fruits. Actually preferred the 96 to the 97.

1998:
Not as much fruitiness showing on the nose or palate compared to other 90s bottles, but still a very solid wine. Nice tannic grip that worked well with bites of steak. The overall 98 vintage in California often gets a bum rap for its less ripe style, but this wine is certainly in for the haul. Aging better than the 97, at least from this tasting.

1999: Currently in a tasty and thoroughly enjoyable sweet spot of primary fruit and beginning of secondary bottle notes. Flavors of black currants, plus some tobacco and a little spiciness. Very much a crowd pleaser. WOTN for Rick Kushman, my pal and wine drinking colleague.

2002, 2004, 2005, 2006:
Welcome to the modern age of Forman, with upfront wines that emphasize blueberries and violets. Alcohol levels in the upper 14 percent range, compared to 12-ish percent from the inaugural vintages. As a group, also getting notes of coffee (especially in the 2002) and lots of plum. Ric Forman predicts these big structured wines will age well, but geared more toward immediate enjoyment.

Check out my "Wine Buzz" column today and you'll read about my first foray as a wine judge. I spent Saturday morning and early afternoon at the Amador County Fairground in Plymouth, with the task of considering 69 wines for possible medals. My three-person panel sampled 22 sangioveses, 31 cabernet sauvignon, 11 red Bordeaux blends, three "other white varietals blends" and two apple wines. The event can be summed up like this: good times, many glasses and a seriously stained tongue by the end of it all.

Here are the "best of class" winners selected by my panel:

Sangiovese - Macchia 2007 Sangiovese (This wine featured some stiff competition with a Cooper Vineyards 2006 Estate Sangiovese, but the edge went to the Macchia for its overall balance and fruity, long finish. Sangioveses from Vino Noceto also showed especially well).

Cabernet Sauvignon - Iverson Winery 2006 El Dorado Cabernet Sauvignon (a well-structured wine that also won us over for its flavors and aroma).

Red Bordeaux Blend - Winery by the Creek 2007 Grand Reserve (My personal favorite was the Hatcher Winery 2006 Meritage, but this wine was certainly fine and noted for its expressive bouquet and balanced fruit).

Other White Varietal Blends - Avanguardia Wines 2006 Selvatico (Out of the three wines in this flight, we all agreed that this wine had the best aromatics and flavor).

Apple Wine - Boa Vista Vineyards 2006 (Compared to the somewhat cloying Kandi Apple Wine from Boa Vista, this apple wine from the same producer was simply more refreshing and balanced - especially after a long morning of tasting).

But the competition featured nearly two dozen judges hosting many different panels. And by the end of it all, one wine reigned supreme: Sobon Estate 2007 Primitivo. This wine swept all of its fields and emerged as the "best of show" bottle. Wasn't on the panels for primitivo or "best of show," so I'm looking forward to tasting this one myself. Have fun tracking this bottle down ... and now, here are more "best of show" winners:

Best of Show - Sobon Estate 2007 Primitivo

Best Red - Sobon Estate 2007 Primitivo

Best White - Sierra Vista Winery 2008 Viognier

Best Desert Wine - Chateau Routon Winery 2005 Sierratage Vintage Port '05

Best Rose - Bray Vineyards 2008 Barbera Rosato

Best Amador Rhone - Karmere Winery 2007 Syrah

Best Amador Red Zinfandel - Obscurity Cellars 2007 Old Man Murrill Vineyard Zinfandel '07

Best Amador Italian - Sobon Estate 2007 Primitivo

Best Sauvignon Blanc - Wildrotter Winery 2008 Sauvignon Blanc


That's the question as New Vine Logistics recently suspended operations. This direct-to-consumer fulfillment company based in Napa, which shipped wine to 44 states and helped wineries sell their wares online, is seeking capital while its 200+ clients scramble to find shipping alternatives. New Vine Logistics also partnered with Amazon.com in 2008 to help the e-retailer ship wine.

So what does this mean for local wineries and wine drinkers? We're still sorting this out as events unfold, but in the meantime you can learn more about this story here and here.

Just got word that a benefit is taking place for the family of Craig Alires tonight at Azukar Lounge (1616 J St., Sacramento). Alires was a beloved local bartender known by the nickname "Guero," a tongue-in-cheek term for a light skinned person. Alires poured many a drink behind the bar at Tropicana nighclub and Azur, but his life was cut short on May 21. Alires was killed in a single-car accident on Jackson Rd. Alires was 37.

Donations will be accepted tonight at Azukar, with a fundraiser and gathering starting at 8 p.m. All proceeds from the door and bar will go toward Alires' family. Contributions can also be made to:

Craig Alires Memorial Fund at the Golden One Credit Union
c/o 9552 Dunkerrin Way
Elk Grove, CA 95758

MANGIA.jpg

Gotta love some sparkling wine around this time of the year, as the weather heats up and it's best to let those cabernet sauvignons go into hibernation until fall. The Italian sparking wine known as prosecco has always been a personal favorite, for either kicking off a meal or just sipping on a warm day. But not all proseccos are alike in ther food friendliness, with some versions tasting closer to carbonated pear juice than sparkling wine.

That's why I was so stoked to when I popped into Hot Italian (1627 16th St., Sacramento) last week and sampled their Ruggeri Prosecco. First off, the price was nice at just $8 a glass. But it was the taste that really struck me. This prosecco was on the dry side, but with a brightness and pronounced acidity that made it especially food friendly. Paired with a slice of Magnini (pizza topped with smoked salmon, mozzarella and mascarpone cheese), my taste buds were practically yelling, "Mangia!"

Overall, I liked the accessibility of Hot Italian's wine list. Full bottles can be had for $28-$48, or as little as $5 per glass. I tasted a few other wines, including a strawberry-ish barbera rose from Lodi's Uvaggio winery ($5), and a fairly straightforward white by Inama ($7). But one glass that really stood out was a barbera from Michele Chiarlo ($8). I've always been a fan of the light and peachy moscato d'asti by Michele Chiarlo, and their barbera was also a winner. This red wine, medium in weight and full of berry flavors, felt refreshing to the palate instead of bombarding it with ripe fruit and oak. My mouth felt primed for more pizza instead of fatigued.

Can't vouch for the rest of the food, but I did like Hot Italian's pizzas, especially the Fiori (includes tomato sauce, arugula, prosciutto parma and truffle oil). The pizzas are something like a California spin on traditional Neopolitan pizza. The thin, slightly blistered crust, plus the freshness of ingredients, was all Italian. But the portion of toppings was more generous and cheesy than usually found on traditional pizza. I'm definitely not a deep-dish sort of pizza guy, so this style suited me well. For those who like Masullo's pizzas (and yes, that would be me), but crave a little more heft with toppings, Hot Italian may be right for your palate. And seriously, don't forget that glass of the Ruggeri Prosecco.

One of the Sacramento area's largest winemaking operations will soon cease production. R.H. Phillips Winery, the Esparto-based facility responsible for producing Toasted Head wines, will close Sept. 1.

But its wines aren't entirely going away. Production of Toasted Head and R.H. Phillips wines will continue at Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi, located near Lodi.

R.H. Phillips Winery is being shut down by its parent company, Constellation Brands, Inc.. The Victor, N.Y.-based company, which also owns the Robert Mondavi Corporation, is the world's largest wine company with annual sales of 95 million cases of wine.

R.H. Phillips Winery's 1,700 acres of vineyards, located in the Dunnigan Hills area of Yolo County, will remain under the ownership of Constellation Brands.

"(The closure) is part of an ongoing strategic initiative for efficiency," said Nora Feeley, a Constellation spokeswoman Nora Feeley. "We could produce the wines and keep the grapes, but produce them with no damage (to quality) to the wine at Woodbridge."

R.H. Phillips Winery was founded in 1983 by the husband-wife team of John and Lane Giguiere, along with John's brother Karl Giguiere. R.H. Phillips Winery went public in 1995 and the company was sold in 2000 to Vincor International Inc., Canada's largest wine company. Constellation Brands acquired Vincor in 2006.

R.H. Phillips is best known for its line of Toasted Head chardonnay, which is priced in the $10 range and sells more than half a million cases annually. R.H. Phillips' other wine brands, including Night Harvest, sell some 250,000 cases each year.

R.H. Phillips Winery currently employs 53 workers. It's not known if any employees will transfer to the winemaking operations at Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi.

Meanwhile, Barry Bergman, head winemaker and general manager for Toasted Head, has meanwhile accepted a position with Domaine Chandon in Napa Valley.

Harvest operations at R.H. Phillips Winery are suspended as the transition to closure takes place.

"It's incredibly sad, not only for the employees but the local community," said Lane Giguiere. "It was nice having the largest wine company in the world here. It was a crown in our cap for Yolo County."

May 13, 2009
Tre to tweak its menu

Local foodies have an unlikely find in Tre restaurant on Howe Ave. This location was a longtime El Torito outlet - oh, the chain restaurant horror! - before being gutted and refurbished by the Haines brothers (Matt and Fred). Since opening six months ago as a nightclub and dining spot, Tre has won its share of accolades for a diverse and well-executioned menu that spans Italian, French and even Cajun cooking.

But come June 1, Tre is changing its menu. The restaurant will morph into a bar and grill with plenty of American comfort food. So why change the menu if it wasn't broken? Seems that Tre was getting two distinct crowds: those who showed up early for fine dining, and the later crowd that wanted to groove to the latest club bangers. And these crowds weren't overlapping the way Tre's managament hoped they would.

"People in the beginning would love our food, but they wouldn't come back for it," says Tre general manager Joseph Hechmi. "Our food was made for the more sophisticated diner, so we decided to go more mainstream but still contemporary. We want people in the club to feel comfortable as well. We're going toward ribs and chicken, but everything will be made from scratch."

Midtown's Lounge on 20 recently held a cocktail competition featuring local mixologists. And after all the shaking and stirring, one bartender reigned supreme: Chris Tucker from L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen (and no relation to the guy avoiding a beat down by Deebo in "Friday"). Broker's London Dry Gin was the theme ingredient, and Tucker concocted a cocktail called "Paint It Black" that ranked tops with the judging panel. I'd been trying to get this recipe from Tucker since his win, and finally got it locked down. The recipe comes in three parts: one for the charged water, another for the tonic jelly and the final instructions of how to put it all together.

Here's what Tucker says about his champion cocktail, followed by the recipe. Bottom's up!

"My idea for the drink is basically just a playful turn on the ol' reliable - but often boring - gin and tonic. I love housemade tonics and particularly creating flavored tonics that complement the flavor profile for specific spirits. For gins like Brokers, Bombay Saphire and Plymouth, the flavors of blackberry, ginger and star anise work well. In jelly form, it allows the flavor of the tonic to slowly leach into the drink, so that as the ice melts and the drink dillutes down, the flavor of the drink remains true. This is aided by the natural stirring that occurs by people playing with their drinks."

Paint It Black

2 oz Brokers Gin
2 Tablespoons *Blackberry Ginger Star Anise Tonic Jelly
3 oz **Mint Blackberry charged water

Paint the inside of a 12 oz Collins glass with 1 tablespoon of jelly and fill glass with ice. In a mixing glass, combine gin with remaining tablespoon of jelly. Add ice and shake well. Double strain and pour over ice filled Collins glass. Top with mint blackberry charged water and garnish with lime zest.

*Blackberry Ginger Star Anise Tonic Jelly

15 oz Blackberries
1 cup sliced Ginger
5 Star Anise pods
½ cup boiling water
1 Tablespoon Citric Acid powder
1 Tablespoon Quinine powder(cinchona bark powder)

In a 6 qt sauce pot, combine blackberries, ginger and star anise and sweat over medium heat. Stir occasionally to prevent scalding on the bottom. In a small pot, combine boiling water, citric acid and quinine. Whisk to break up clumps. Add to blackberry pot and continue stirring over medium heat. Once bubbling, add sugar and continue stirring until dissolved. Continue cooking over medium heat reducing fluid by 1/3 (30 min) stirring occasionally. Strain and pour into sterile preserve jars. Yields 16-20 oz

**Mint Blackberry Charged Water

1 cup Blackberries
1 small bunch of fresh Mint
36 oz fresh cold water

Combine in sauce pot and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Boil for 90 seconds. Strain and refrigerate. Once cold, add to soda siphon or seltzer charger and charge. Keep cold.


The Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862 was a noble fight, with the Mexicans defeating the French - and in less than a year would boot them out of Mexico City. And what better way to celebrate this moment of Mexican pride than ... uhm ... seeing if you can eat a five pound burrito in less than 30 minutes. That's right, Cinco de Mayo isn't just for tequila drinking contests while dusting off that Santana CD. Taco Del Mar outlets in the Sacramento area are hosting a burrito challenge on Cinco de Mayo. Eat a five pound burrito in a half hour or less, and you'll score a $20 gift certificate from Taco Del Mar. This gut bomb is the equivalent of four-and-a-half Mondo Burritos, each packed with rice, beans, meat, sauces and jalapenos wrapped snug in four flour tortillas. If you don't finish this five pounder in the allotted time, it'll cost you $17.95 - and after clobbering your digestive tract, hopefully you've saved a little extra cash for Imodium. But hey, if you're up for the challenge, here's a list of local Taco Del Mar outlets. Viva Cinco de Mayo!

- 1120 Exposition Blvd., Sacramento
- Missouri Flat Village: 3967 Missouri Flat Rd., Placerville
- Sterling Point Shopping Center: 885 S. State Highway 65, Lincoln
- Village Square: 3941 Park Dr., El Dorado Hills

So I'm working on a story about food safety and talked recently with Christine Bruhn. She researches food safety issues at UC Davis' Department of Food Science and Technology, and after getting some tips for safe cooking, I asked her about the possibility of catching "swine flu" from eating pork and pig-related products. Here's what she said, and the news was good for this guy who loves smoking some spareribs:

"There's no evidence whatsoever," said Bruhn, about the possibility of catching swine flu by eating a pork chop. "People who work with hogs are more susceptible because (the virus) is passed from moisture droplets when the animal is breathing. You don't find that at all with eating meat, which is just muscle tissue and there's no viral parts on that. Even if you sneezed on the meat, the surface heat from cooking destroys (the virus)."

April 29, 2009
New home for Plan B Cafe

Growing up in the Greenhaven/Pocket area was good enough, though dining options weren't so decent back then. Sure, we had such standbys as Shari's in the Lakecrest Village shopping center, soup and sandwiches at Rainbow's End, Chinese food at Chopsticks Express ... but you really had to go elsewhere for a proper sit-down dinner. You could at least haul over to South Land Park and feast at Neptune's Table - a restaurant where yours truly bussed tables in the summer before college.

Many other eateries opened in the Greenhaven/Pocket area over the years, but Plan B Cafe truly elevated the culinary scene in these 'burbs upon opening in 2007. Mussels and rainbow trout, California and French vino, a hefty hangar steak ... it was enough to return to my old stomping grounds with a rumbling stomach. But less than two years later, Plan B Cafe was done. Its Greenhaven Dr. location has since been taken over by Ravenous Cafe, an equally solid eatery which merited four stars in Blair Anthony Robertson's recent review. (I'll vouch for the tastiness of the pappardelle with mushrooms and roasted chicken, and the rich risotto).

Reminiscing aside, I've got some good news to report. Plan B Cafe just opened at its new home at the Arden Town Center (Fair Oaks Blvd. at Watt Ave.). The menu appears to be much of the same: mussels with pommes frites, 12 oz. grilled rib-eye, roasted tomato tartelettes and the like. Owner Lionel Lucas says that dinner is now being served Tuesday through Saturday, and expects to add lunch within the next two weeks. Sounds like the Greenhaven faithful will be trekking to a different 'burb to get their Plan B fix. For more information: (916) 483-3000 or check planbrestaurant.com.

April 28, 2009
More Mexican restaurants

Last week's Food & Wine cover story was all about "real" Mexican food around the region, and along with my own picks for the most authentic resturants around Sacramento, I asked readers to chime in as well. Here's what some readers had to say about their favorite Mexican food finds ... please leave more picks in the comments section if you've got some. Arriba!


Rudy's Mexican Gourmet
6011 Stanford Ranch Rd # 107, Rocklin
(916) 435-4050
Says reader Jim Dougherty: "Rudy has many recipes passed down within his family and makes excellent specialty dishes from the Mexico City region. I can honestly say I have never had a bad meal at Rudy's ... It's hard to find true authentic Al Pastor in Sacramento. Rudy's is the best in the region, even better than Lalo's. Watching the pork spinning on the vertical rotisserie, pineapple dripping down is reminiscent of the street vendors in Mexico."

Q'Bole
705 Gold Lake Dr # 200, Folsom
(916) 357-5242‎
Says reader Kendal Smeeth: "A few miles to the east in old Folsom is a place you must try if you haven't already. My family and I thrive on Q'Bole. Owned by Mexicans with Spanish speaking staff, their food is delicious and reminds me of my best meals in San Jose Del Cabo and Manzanillos. If you are talking authentic, this one has to be among those you consider."

Las Palmas Restaurant y Pupuseria
7386 Stockton Blvd, Sacramento
(916) 392-1478
Says reader Tanya W.: "You should visit Las Palmas. It's located off Stockton Blvd by Florin Rd. It's a newer restaurant and they have done a nice job with the place. I am new to the area as well, but I have found quite a few places but nothing like this place. In addition to the restaurant they have a little supermarket attached to the restaurant. They offer the normal mexican dishes and also central american dishes. They also have fun with the dishes and they spice things up!"

La Casa Restaurante
2310 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento
(916) 641-8880‎
Says reader Alfredo Burlando: "Our favorite Mexican restaurant is La Casa, a new Mexican restaurant on Fair Oaks Blvd. where they have excellent food, a lot of genuine Mexican dishes, but also some specialties from other Latin American countries. Their food is consistently good, the atmosphere very happy and the service friendly. They also had a good selection of beers and great margaritas!"

Hecho en Mexico Taqueria
374 California St., Woodland
(530) 666-1418‎
Says reader Rodrigo H.: "They have the best crispy shrimp tacos in town and spicy prawns and the salsa bar is awesome."

April 22, 2009
UC Davis' new vineyards

My neck is feeling a little sunburnt right now, and that's because I spent some time around noon at UC Davis' new vineyards. By coincidence or not, more than 2,500 rootstocks were planted today (a.k.a. Earth Day). These rootstocks are providing the foundation for a new 12-acre vineyard that's adjacent to the Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science. These vineyards will be dedicated toward teaching exercises and studies for students in the departments of viticulture and enology. It may be a year until these rootstocks are developed enough for studying, and about two years until they bear fruit. But they will still provide plenty of hands-on training for using various trellis systems and other vineyard work. For more on these new vineyards and what they mean for winemaking at UC Davis, check the "Vintages" page in our Food & Wine section next Wednesday.

BERNIE.JPG

Hola, and hope you had a chance to read my story today about "real" Mexican food in the Sacramento area. Hope you also get a chance to try out the recipes we ran with the story, and check my personal picks for the most authentic Mexican restaurants in Sacramento.

Bernadette Gutierrez was one of the sources for my story, and she also joined me for lunch at Lalo's Restaurant on 24th St. We scarfed on quesadillas with flor de calabaza (squash blossom), tamales and I also went for an order of rich and marbled tacos de cabeza (head meat). Bernadette is a celebrated Mexican cook who lives in Land Park, studied with Mexican cuisine authority Diana Kennedy and has also taught local classes in making tamales and mole. The picture above shows Bernadette preparing a Oaxacan meal in her home, and I'm getting hungry just looking at it.

Here's a recipe from Bernadette for the sauteed dish known as guiso, along with her thoughts on cooking:

"I found my love of cooking through my mother, who used fresh herbs and vegetables from her garden. My palate became rich at such a young age because of her. I recently asked my mother how she started to make guisos, which she learned from her mother. Growing up in a family of eight, my mother was often pressed for time. But she was stil quite a cook, creating quick delicious meals for us to enjoy. Opening the refrigerator or using what was growing in her vast garden often made up her meals.

"A guiso is a sautée of various foods, such as a combination of meat, sausages, herbs, chiles, onions, tomatoes or any thing you have on hand to sautee quickly. You can add them to beans or potatoes. You can serve in burritos or as a delicious side dish. Guisios can be great, easy meals on weeknights or weekends where you don't want to slave away in the kitchen all day. I've passed this tradition down to my children for their families and it is certain to continue!"

Guiso

1 cup of chopped onions
3 medium size tomatoes chopped
3 finely chopped chile serranos - or to taste
1 cup of shredded queso oaxacca or jack cheese
option: prior to serving add 2 tablespoons of chopped cilantro

Start out by cooking your chorizo on a low flame. Meanwhile, chop your onions and tomatoes and chile. Add to cooking chorizo. If the chorizo is giving off too much fat, drain excess. After your ingredients are soft add 4 cups of cooked beans and mix. Add shredded cheese.

April 21, 2009
Free pretzels

Go ahead and get it twisted: National Pretzel Day is April 26, and local Pretzel Time outlets will be giving away free pretzels on that day. Sounds like there's a holiday for everything these days, but marketing manuevers aside, we're certainly down for a free pretzel. So stop by your friendly neighborhood Pretzel Time and pick up your freebie (one pretzel per customer). Here's a list of Pretzel Time locations:

Galleria Mall @ Roseville
1151 Galleria Mall #276
Roseville, CA 95678

Sunrise Mall
6138 Sunrise Mall
Citrus Heights, CA 95610

Folsom Premium Outlets
13000 Folsom Blvd #209
Folsom, CA 95630

Arden Fair Mall
1689 Arden Way #1118
Sacramento, CA 95815

Country Club Plaza
2380 Watt Ave #330
Sacramento, CA 95825

April 17, 2009
Sean Minor Wines tasting

Let's give it up for the home team: Sean Minor calls Sacramento home and produces tasty northern California wines at reasonable prices. Now that's a double whammy ... I recommended MInor's 2006 Four Bears Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($17) in a recent dispatch of "Liquid Assets." Really enjoyed this varietally correct version of cabernet at a reasonable price. Well you can now taste this wine and others, along with meeting the man himself, on Saturday at Capitol Cellars (110 Diamond Creek Place, Roseville). This tasting runs from 3 p.m. - 6 p.m. and will include samples from his Sonoma County sauvignon blanc ($16), cabernet sauvignon and Central Coast chardonnay ($15). The event costs $10. For more information: (916) 786-9030.

April 17, 2009
Port event postponed

The event is an excellent opportunity to learn about the history of port and taste many of them, to boot. But you've now got to wait a little longer. Introduction to Port and the Douro, which was to be held at UC Davis' Robert Mondavi Institute Sensory Theater, has been postponed until later this fall or perhaps even winter. No word yet on exactly why this event has been pushed back, but we'll keep you posted when we hear more. When it all goes down, this $125 port discussion and tasting will be led by grocer/port expert Darrell Corti and Dr. Roger Boulton from UC Davis' department of viticulture and enology. Stay tuned ...

April 14, 2009
Meal deals

Tax Day's just about here, and many of us will be pinching our pennies extra hard. Thanks Uncle Sam ... in any case, price breaks at local restaurants are sounding extra tasty right now, so here are a couple to consider:

- L Wine Lounge & Urban Kitchen (1801 L Street) is offering a two-for-one deal on their prix fixes menus throughout the month of April. This deal commemorates L's two year anniversary as a sipping and eating spot in midtown, and will save you $35. For menus and more information, click here.

- Buca di Beppo - or as we like to say, "Buca di Burp-o" - is currently offering a 20 percent discount to all California state employees. Given that a "small" portion of spaghetti with marinara can feed two or three people for $9.99, that's a whole lotta eating on the cheap - and especially if Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger is your boss. Buca di Beppo operates locally at 1249 Howe Ave. and 1212 Galleria Blvd. in Roseville. Burp ...

Sad news to report: Christopher Robert Johnson, winemaker for Kendall Jackson, passed away on April 4 from complications related to pancreatic cancer. He was 46. Johnson had Sacramento roots, graduating from Jesuit High School, and went on to earn his oenology degree from California State University, Fresno. A memorial celebration was held Saturday at Johnson's Calistoga home.

To read Johnson's funeral notice and leave a remembrance, click here.

April 7, 2009
Cosentino comes to Lodi

Yes, we love some Napa wine around here - save for the weekend traffic congestion on Highway 29 and increasingly exorbitant tasting fees. Now there's a chance to get a little taste of Napa in Lodi. Cosentino Winery, based in Yountville, opened a tasting room in Lodi on April 1. This addition brings founder Mitch Cosentino back to his central valley roots. He first started making wine in Modesto circa 1980, and even after moving his operations to Napa continued to source grapes from Lodi.

The new Cosentino tasting room (3750 E. Woodbridge Rd, Woodbridge) features three wine flights:

- "The Wines" includes five tastes of its Lodi based wines for $5 (some of these wines are blended with Napa fruit).
- "Zin Trio" features tastes of three zinfandels for $5.
- "Napa Experience" costs $15 for five tastes of Cosentino's Napa wines, including a sample of its meritage blend "The Poet" (retail price on this one is a Napa-ish $75 per bottle).

I'm sure some folks won't be so stoked on the increase of Lodi tasting rooms that charge a fee. At least the tasting fee is waived here with the purchase of a bottle, with prices ranging from $18 - $75. For more information: www.cosentinowinery.com or (209) 333-8014.

Step inside Rudy Hernandez's south Sacramento kitchen and you'll find a smorgasbord of food: eggs and potatoes, chili beans, macaroni salad and much more. But the feast isn't for this 59-year-old, who works as a janitor and in-home care provider. Hernandez cooks for the homeless residents of Tent City as part of his own philanthropy. Watch this video to learn more about Hernandez and take a trip with him to Tent City.

It's a great time to be a fan of the farm-to-table food movement. Yet another farmers market is opening in the region, with the Winters Farmers Market debuting on May 3. The setting will be Rotary Park in Winters (Railroad Ave. at Main St.) and runs on Sundays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Here are some of the participating farmers and some of the bounty you'll find:

- Terra Firma Farm in Winters (organic veggies, fruits and strawberries)
- Yolo Bulb in Winters (olive oil, melons, persimmons, flowers and jam);
- Vue Farms in Elk Grove (vegetables and Asian produce)
- Springhill Cheese in Petaluma (hand-crafted cheeses from Grade A Jersey milk)
- Capay Organic in Capay (organic fruits and vegetables)
- Berryesa Gap Winery in Winters

The Winters Farmers Market will run through Oct. 25. For more information: 530-756-1695.

Prepare to spend the next 30 mins. or so clicking around Dregs Report 2009, an April Fool's aggregator of wine news a la Drudge Report. Sample story: "Turning tables: Real restaurant wins ficticious Spectator wine list award."

(Cheers to J. Freedom du Lac for forwarding this link).

Think your cooking and home winemaking skills can go mano a mano with the best in the state? Then surf over to www.bigfun.org and download an application for this year's competitions at the California State Fair, which runs from Aug. 21 to Sept. 7. Food and drink categories include: home brew, California cheese, "California Kidz Kitchen," home wine and others. For more info., click on the "competitions" link at bigfun.org or opt for old-school communication and dial (916) 263-3010. Good luck!

Recently we told you about "Beer Wars," an upcoming documentary film about the foamy politics of the American beer industry. The movie opens on April 16 at a variety of local theaters - check www.fathomevents.com for tickets and locations - and here's something else for you hopheads to consider. Rubicon Brewing Company (2004 Capitol Ave.) will be hosting a "Beer Wars" pre-party, featuring brewery tours and of course, much sipping of suds. Rubicon will pour its own beers along with ales crafted by breweries featured in the film. The festivities start at 4 p.m. For more information: (916) 448-7032.

BTW, speaking of beer, here's my recent article about Sacramento's homebrewing scene.

See, there's more to the upcoming Dixon May Fair than petting zoos and going in the wayback machine with Cheap Trick. A home winemaking competition will be part of this year's fair, which runs from May 7 - 10. So listen up, home winemakers: you have until April 2 to send an entry form that can be downloaded at www.dixonmayfair.com (look for the link to the 2009 Dixon May Fair Guidebook).

Categories for the winemaking competition include: white wines, red wines, non-grape wines and dessert wines. First place in each class receives a whopping $15, with $10 going to second place and $5 for third. But hey, those winning wines will be displayed at the fair's floriculture building and you can say that at least Dixon loves your wine.

For more information: (707) 678-5529

March 19, 2009
Feeling greens

St. Patrick's Day may be just a hazy memory by now, but plenty of green can still be seen in the region. Well, make that greens. The Davis Farmers Market in Central Park (C St, between 4th and 5th streets in downtown Davis) is featuring a free tasting of local greens on Saturday. We're talking lettuce, beet greens, kales and other winter greens accompanied by dressings. Speaking of other green veggies, also be on the lookout for bounties of fresh asparagus at the Farmer's Market.

The Davis Farmers Market runs on Saturday from 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. For more information: (530) 756.1695 or www.davisfarmersmarket.org.

The Eureka and Vine wine bar in Rocklin was silent for three months after its original owners shut down the business. But it's back to pouring and sipping at Eureka and Vine (6040 Stanford Ranch Rd, Suite 200, Rocklin) with new ownership. The wine bar's been getting up to speed with a soft launch that started in February, but will be hosting a grand re-opening soiree on Friday from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. The event will feature tastes from Casque Wines, an award-winning winery based in nearby Loomis. The cost is three tastes for $5. Music, food and raffle prizes will also be included at the party.

Eureka and Vine currently carries more than two dozen wines, with an emphasis on vino from northern California. Look for selections from boutique producers based in the Sierra Foothills, Napa and other nearby locales.

"It's the stuff you wouldn't normally see at BevMo or Total Wine," says Jordy Drake, the new co-owner of Eureka and Vine.

But given the current economy, is he confident that people are ready to spend money on some wine bar sipping?

"This is either the smartest thing I've ever done or the dumbest," says Drake, with a chuckle. "But I think it allows people to have a smaller venue to go and tastes wines. People are always interested in wine, and if we can bring it closer to them, it's a plus."

Hours are Tuesday - Thursday from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday - Saturday from 4 p.m to 10 p.m. For more information: (916) 789-8700.

EK MICHAEL CHANDLER960.JPG

In this latest bit of personnel shifts on the local wine scene, we just got word that Michael Chandler is now the wine director at David Berkley Fine Wines & Specialty Foods. Many of you local wine lovers may remember Chandler's longtime stint at Enotria Restaurant & Wine Bar, where Chandler served as sommelier and manager before leaving in late 2007. That's Chandler in his Enotria days in the above picture.

Chandler's breadth of knowledge and easy-going appeal made him one of Sacramento's favorite sommeliers, and has since worked as a wine consultant, cellar appraiser and spent much time studying for his Master Sommelier exam. Chandler's new gig has him overseeing the wine program at David Berkley, which in recent months has featured winemaker events and a popular Friday night tasting series. Chandler replaces Jeffrey DeVore, who has stepped down from the wine director position but will still work occasionally in the shop.

OK, so maybe the Pavilions shopping center near Fair Oaks Blvd. is a long way from Mumbai, but the folks at David Berkley Fine Wines & Specialty Foods are offering a chance to put your wine trivia to the test. Tonight the shop is hosting a "Who Wants to be a Millionaire" styled contest related to wine, with lifelines and all. Prizes include wine related gifts - sorry, they can't offer alcoholic beverages as prizes - but plenty of goodies will be for the winning. Those of you watching from the sidelines can still enjoy some wine tasting for $10.

The tasting and trivia runs from 5 p.m. - 8 p.m. David Berkley Fine Wines & Specialty Foods is located at 515 Pavilions Lane in Sacramento. For more information: (916) 929-4422.

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We recently sent our best wishes to Timothy Hollingsworth, the chef with Placerville roots who competed at the Bocuse d'Or World Cuisine Contest in Lyon, France. This event is something like the Olympics of cooking, with chefs from around the globe competing for one of the most prestigious awards in the culinary world. The Norwegian team, led by Geir Skeie, took top honors in the field of 24, while Hollingsworth and Team USA captured a respectable sixth place.

Hollingsworth's schedule has been slammed since returning from France. The 28-year-old is back in the kitchen at the French Laundry in Yountville, but he took some time out from cooking to reflect on this Bocuse d'Or via e-mail. Here's what Chef Hollingsworth had to say:

Timothy, congratulations on your Top 10 finish at the Bocuse d'Or. How are you looking back on this experience?
Thank you. I look back on the experience with gratitude, respect and new insights on the history of cooking as well as modern global cuisine. Throughout the experience, I tried to live as much as I could in every moment, but it went so fast it was almost too much to absorb while it was happening. It is great for me to look back and reflect on all the people I met and the experiences that we shared.

What was the toughest dish to create in the competition? How tough was it to keep your cool in the midst of cooking?
For me, the toughest challenge was working with the proteins. The Scottish beef used in the competition is very different than the American beef we practiced with. Scottish beef is older than American beef and has a different flavor and texture when cooked. The shrimp we used on competition day were also different than the product we were used to working with, so we actually had to change the composition of one of the garnishes and adjust on competition day. The pressure in the kitchen and during the preparation was not too overwhelming. The most difficult challenge came at the time of plating. We were using many of the silver pieces - including the platters themselves - for the first time and pulling all these components together took longer than anticipated. During this time, it was very intense, we could definitely feel the pressure and the noise from the spectators was extremely loud. To keep my cool during this time was very challenging and required extreme focus on the tasks at hand.


You received a three-month sabbatical to train for the Bocuse d'Or. What was a typical training day like?
Truly there was no typical day. As I moved through the process of creating the menu, each day would bring new challenges and a new focus. We did have some obligations to fulfill at the French Laundry, so it was a balance. In the two weeks prior to departing for France, the restaurant was closed and our full attention was on the competition. Everyday we would arrive at our training center in the morning and set our schedule for the day ahead. On full practice days, we would set up for a few hours, eat lunch, move through the 5 hour timeframe, evaluate the outcome and identify what we could do better, faster, smarter. Many days we had colleagues, visitors and friends come by to offer support and make suggestions on the food, technique and timing. Then we would do the dishes and head home. The days were long and challenging, but the process itself and seeing the progress was rewarding.

Does cooking at The French Laundry now feel like a cakewalk to competing in the Bocuse d'Or?
The French Laundry will never be a cake walk for anyone, no matter what their experience. We strive to excel and evolve and hold ourselves to the highest standards we know. Our motivation is that we can always improve, so it's never easy.

I understand you have some roots in Placerville. Did you ever cook there, or anywhere else in the Sacramento area?
Yes, I grew up in Placerville and graduated from El Dorado High School in 1998. I began cooking my senior year at Zachary Jacques with Chef Christian Masse and his wife Jennifer Masse who was the pastry chef. I worked there for nearly four years before getting the opportunity to go to The French Laundry.

Once again, congratulations on the strong showing for Team USA. Any final thoughts you'd like to share?
I want to thank everyone for their immense support and interest - my friends, family, colleagues, mentors, press, and all the new acquaintances that I met along the way. I am grateful for the experience and hope to maintain the relationships that I've established for a long time to come.

Can independent brewers stay afloat while competing with the big dogs of beer? That's the focus of a new documentary titled "Beer Wars," which dives into the politics of the American beer industry and shines a light on brewers who are bent on elevating the craft of beer making. But can they make it?

A special one-night showing of "Beer Wars" will take place on April 16th at six local theaters: Sacramento Stadium 14 (1590 Ethan Way, Sacramento), Laguna 16 (9349 Big Horn Blvd., Elk Grove), Roseville 14 (1555 Eureka Rd., Roseville), Sacramento Downtown Plaza 7 (445 Downtown Plaza, Sacramento), Sacramento Greenback Lane 16 (6233 Garfield Ave., Sacramento) and Natomas Marketplace (3561 Truxel Rd., Sacramento).

The showing will also include a simulcast discussion featuring a panel of brewers and beer experts, with moderation by Ben Stein. For tickets: www.fathomevents.com.

In other beer matters, we've got a story on Sacramento's homebrewing scene coming soon. Stay tuned ... in the meantime, pass the popcorn and check out the above preview for "Beer Wars."

Congratulations to Daniel Person and James McCeney, two UC Davis students of viticulture and enology who each nabbed the scholarship of a lifetime. Starting in July, Person will spend four months at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the estate in Burgundy, France which crafts one of the world's ultimate wines and its mose expensive (think: thousands of dollars for a single bottle). Person will help with the wine grape harvest, perform field tests in the vineyards and assist in production.

McCeney will meanwhile be off to Hospices de Beaune, the storied hospital in Burgundy which owns vineyards and hosts one of the world's most noted wine auctions. McCeney will join the winemaking team which produces wines especially for the auction.

The internships are a collaboration between UC Davis and the University of Dijon, Burgundy, with support from The Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Foundation. Here's to a happy harvest in Burgundy, and we'll be keeping tabs on these fortunate students.

Who's got the best cocktail mixing skills in Sacramento? A contest coming to Lounge on 20 (1050 20th St.) on March 18 is seeking to find this answer. Bartenders from a variety of Sacramento establishments and beyond will be competing for bragging rights and a $300 top prize, with $150 going to the runner-up and $50 for third place.

The contest is something of a promotion for Broker's London Dry Gin, and all contestants will create one drink recipe based on this gin brand. Any edible/potable ingredient is fair game for the cocktails, and the mixologists will get 15 minutes of prep time and 15 minutes to make drinks for the judges. Here's the panel to impress:

Darrell Corti (Corti Brothers)
Andy Dawson (Broker's London Dry Gin)
Joe Anthony Savala (Zocalo)
Mike Heller (The Heller Company)

Contestants will be representing such local restaurants and watering holes as Zocalo, Ella Dining Room and Bar, Benny's, GV Hurley - and yes, Lounge on 20.

The March 18 cocktail competition starts at 6 p.m. and cocktail specials will be available. For more information: (916) 443-6620.

Saturday night marked the 10th annual Open That Bottle Night, and in an earlier posting I narrowed my field to three potential bottles: Mayacamas 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, d'Arenberg 2003 Dead Arm Shiraz and a semillon from 1986 whose producer I couldn't remember. So after some consideration, I opted to commemorate this occasion for opening a special bottle with the 1986 semillon. The cabernet and shiraz still have plenty of life in them, so I chose the wine that was the oldest of the three.

So I got my Ah-So cork puller and reached for the winner: a 1986 Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon from Australia's Hunter Valley. These wines are unoaked and meant for serious bottle aging, and in this case the wine wasn't even released until 1996 (i.e. 10 years after its vintage date).

But how has this semillon fared over the last 23 years?
The cork was still in good shape, if not a bit slippery. And once in the glass, the wine was a deep yellow-orange color and almost looked like apple juice. The nose smelled of honey and was slightly nutty, but with a tinge of alcohol heat. In the mouth the wine was fairly light, but rich with baked apple and fig flavors. The acidity still present in this wine made it all feel very much alive instead of a fuddy-duddy. Thanks, Open That Bottle Night, for inspiring me to pop this bottle. Until a week ago, I'd forgotten it was in my collection.

Anyone else have an Open That Bottle Night experience that you want to share? Leave a comment ...

The 10th anniversary of Open That Bottle Night arrives on Saturday, so what are you going to uncork? This annual wine event was founded by two writers from the Wall Street Journal - Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher - with the idea of savoring a bottle (or two) that's been sitting in your cellar or cooling unit for too long. For some Internet action related to Open That Bottle Night, check out www.openthatbottlenight.com and live twittering at www.twittertastelive.com.

I'm still mulling over three candidates for Open That Bottle Night. They are:

- d'Arenberg 2003 Dead Arm Shiraz: bought this bottle a few years ago on a whim, even though I'm not the biggest fan of Aussie shiraz. I'm not usually into wines that are so jammy that you could practically spread them on toast. These big-bodied wines really benefit from time in the bottle, and some of its baby fat might be shed by now. Part of me wants to let it sleep longer, and the other part is ready to make space in my cooling unit.

- Mayacamas 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon: I bought this bottle upon release, knowing that Mayacamas wines can be hugely tannic when young and are glacier-like in their aging. I was planning on opening this one about five years from now ... Though 1998 was a largely panned vintage for California cabernet, time has shown that many of these wines are aging much more gracefully than their 1997 counterparts. Time to pop this Mayacamas and check its evolution? Tempting ...

- a bottle of 1986 semillon, though I can't remember the producer at this point. All I know is that I've had some wonderful examples of aged semillon recently (just love that mix of fig and baked apple flavors) and this bottle certainly isn't getting any younger.

Again, what are your candidates for Open That Bottle Night? Leave them in the comments section...

Did anyone make it to Whole Foods Market last week, when Maynard James Keenan from the rock band Tool signed bottles of his wines? I missed it and was curious ow this turned out. The backstory: Keenan is the vintner behind two wine labels: Arizona Stronghold Vineyards and Caduceus Cellars/ Merkin Vineyards. Sacramento was a stop on a bottle signing tour with winemaker Eric Glomski, and you can read more about all this in my interview with Keenan.

It sounds like it was a veritable mosh pit of wine buyers and Tool fans. Tere Romo of Sacramento sent this e-mail, and here's her take on the event:

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"The wine signing event was a memorable experience, though I had mixed feelings about it. I went with my niece (19) and nephew (31) who are also avid fans. Who else would be up so early and in the first of three lines at 6:45 a.m.? And there were already 21 fans ahead of us. It paid off, though because when we got back for the wine selling line in the afternoon, we got through quickly and then went to wait for the actual wine signing line.

"I really enjoyed the atmosphere of the event in that you actually felt like you're part of a Tool family/nation no matter your age or gender...By the time we emerged from the signing, the Whole Foods parking lot had been taken over by Tool fans. It was after 5 p.m. and there were still lots of people in lines to both buy and sign.

"We got a case of Chupacabra (from Merkin Vineyards) between my nephew and I and had them all signed. I just wish that Maynard had been more pleasant or even friendly. I know that he is not about socializing, given his persona on stage, and I was very surprised that he was doing this. I also know that it must be hard to go around the country and signing, what by now must be thousands of bottles. But, he looked like he really didn't want to be there; in contrast, his partner (winemaker Eric Glomski) was very friendly and thanked us for coming.

"Finally, after I thanked them for doing this Maynard looks up and thanked us, too. I wanted to ask him which wine he recommended for seafood since Chupacabra was the only one I have tried, but it just didn't seem like I should...It could have been that his placement in the store wasn't the greatest (way in the back and pretty cramped) or he was tired after signing bottles for over 600 in Fresno the day before...but it was disappointing. In the Bee article, he came off as really trying to entice new converts to his wine, but then acted totally disinterested. Too bad, because I don't think that it will help his wine sales in the future."

I've waxed on the virtues of Mexican Coca-Cola before, and how this bottling of Coke uses cane sugar instead of the high fructose corn syrup in its gringo counterpart. That's why I've always preferred Mexican Coke and its less in-your-face sugary taste. And it just so happened that I'm eating carne asada tacos for lunch at my desk, and washing it all down with a bottle of Mexican Coca-Cola while checking the latest dish at the Heckasac blog. How's that for multi-tasking ... anyway, someone posted a link in Heckasac's comments section to a story about Pepsi and Mountain Dew releasing a "throwback" line where these sodas use real sugar. Yes! This original information was culled from a story in Beverage Industry magazine, and looks like these "throwback" sodas will be available in mid-April. Could we be seeing a back-to--sugar trend in the soda world? Me and my sweet tooth sure hope so.

Exports of wine exceeded $1 billion in 2008, according to new figures from the Wine Institute, a trade group representing California's wineries. The exact dollar amount is $1,008,259,000, and marks the first time wine exports have surpassed $1 billion, and represents a 6 percent increase from 2007. Note that 90 percent of these exports are California wines.

55 million cases of wine were shipped in 2008, representing some 130 million gallons, and is an eight percent increase over the previous year. Shipments to the European Union account for almost half these exports, followed by Canada, Japan, Hong Kong and Mexico. The hot growth market for 2008 was China, where exports increased 34 percent.

February 24, 2009
Twofer at T.G.I. Friday's

Fellow food eaters on a budget, I have some good news and some bad news.

The good: T.G.I. Friday's has a buy one entree, get one entree free campaign that runs through March 1.

The downside: You have to eat at T.G.I. Friday's.

Just kidding!

I mean, hey, who isn't looking for a deal in these days of furloughs and the tanking stock market. And what better way to get your mind off all this than to fall into a food coma after scarfing down some Jack Daniel's Ribs & Shrimp and an Ultimate Lynchburg Lemonade cocktail.

To cash in with this deal, visit this following link for a coupon.

Now the fine print: the deal is valid for one offer, per party, per visit and applies to entrees of equal or lesser value. T.G.I. Friday's entrees range from $5.99 to $18.29, for those counting at home.

See you there ... I'll be the guy with a bib and face full of baby-back ribs.

February 23, 2009
New venture for David Berkley

I'm back in the office after spending last week in Napa for the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. My final stop before heading back to Sacramento was a tasting at Shafer Vineyards (highlights of the tasting were the gorgeous 1995 and 2002 vintages of its Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon). The tasting room was also being lit up by a jovial David Berkley, the longtime gourmet grocer and wine merchant from Sacramento. David Berkley Fine Wines and Specialty Foods still operates in the Pavilions shopping center off Fair Oaks Blvd., though Berkley sold the business in June due to such health issues as impending double knee replacement surgery. Berkley ran his shop for 23 years, and was a White House wine advisor during President Reagan's administration.

But as Berkley chatted up the room, sharing hugs and laughs with winery president Doug Shafer, Berkley offered this scoop: he's coming back with a new venture. Berkley didn't offer many details, such as where his new business will be located or what kind of flavor it might have. But Berkley says he's looking to open in eight months, so we'll stay on top of this and pass along more details as they come through.

An extended break is about the only thing rarer than the 1937 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon that I saw yesterday on display. But it's Thursday afternoon, and I've got two hours all to myself at Meadowood in St. Helena. So I'm decompressing in my room after another day of panels and sensory evaluation exercises at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. Oh, and there was a hearty lunch as well, with a variety of Napa cabernet sauvignons that stretched from the early 1990s until the present day, all ready for the tasting. My personal favorite was a 1995 Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon, even though most of my table - including Alder Yarrow of vinography.com - thought the fruit had faded and were put off by the earthy nose. I thought this all rang of a tasty Bordeaux, and the subtleties of this wine were refreshing after a couple days of tasting young and ripe Napa wines that just might put hair on your chest. But I digress ... all I know is that I need to hit the gym in a big way when I get back to Sac.

Even though I could use a nap right now, the writer in me is feeling charged. Yesterday I practically pinched myself during lunch at the Culinary Institute of America, where we ate in the former Christian Brothers Winery barrel room that now hosts the Culinary Institute of America's Vintners Hall of Fame. Across the table was Ross Schwartz, screenwriter for "Bottle Shock," and dishing some behind-the-scenes stories about the making of this wine-related movie. And sitting next to me was Elin McCoy, author of "The Emperor of Wine: The Rise of Robert M. Parker, Jr.," who talked about Parker as an interview subject (great on the phone, not as open in person). And the historical display of California wine from the David and Judy Breitstein Collection really brought out my wine geek, especially looking at those pristine bottles of the Heitz Cellar 1966 Martha's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, that Beringer from 1937 and a port wine produced in 1835. Hope I didn't leave any drool on the glass case ...

But for all the eating and wine sipping, it's been a blast to meet fellow wine scribes, share ideas and also talk about our collective anxieties during these wacky times for wine publishing. Tonight is the final dinner blowout, followed by more wine tasting and socializing. One of the writers here is a songwriter, and I hear he's going to bring a guitar to the final soiree. It'll be a full night ... and we've still got a 7:45 a.m. bus to catch Friday morning, where the symposium concludes with a morning program at the Culinary Institute of America.

February 18, 2009
Napa-stye wine immersion

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Greetings from the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers.

The trip to St. Helena was a soggy one, but it's Tuesday afternoon and I'm here at the Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. Some 60 writers and panelists are here through Friday at Meadowood, a very cozy yet classy resort, where we'll discuss the finer points of wine writing, interviewing and other related matters. And yes, we'll be doing plenty of eating and drinking. 150 wineries from the Napa Valley donated bottles to our cause, and that grassy and citrus-y taste of the Stag's Leap Cellars sauvignon blanc was the perfect way to decompress after this rainy traveling. Whew ...

Some of my friends are ribbing me about this whole event, and guess I can't blame them. Four days of epic wine drinking and eating, and at this posh resort? Yeah, pinch me already. I certainly feel fortunate to be here. I was lucky to win a fellowship for this symposium based on some writing samples I'd sent in December. Had I not been selected, I'd be back in Sacramento wondering how this was all going. So yes, this affair sounds pretty hedonistic during such penny-pinching times. But for those of us in attendance, wine writing is a serious vocation. So many stories can spring from wine: the agri-business angle; profiles of the winemakers behind this multi-billion dollar industry; lifestyle and travel pieces; trends in how and what we drink. After all, wine culture stretches back thousands of years ... hey, even Jesus was a fan. So the purpose of this event is to nestle into the worlds of wine and writing and learn from some of the best, including Eric Asimov of the New York Times and "Wine Bible" author Karen MacNeil.

Right now we're all in that "getting to know you phase." The symposium kicked off with a reception and then into panel sessions on reporting skills, market research about current wine consumption and tips from past alumni. (Speaking of alumni, my pal and colleague Rick Kushman is a previous symposium fellow, though not here; he's the co-author of the wine book "A Moveable Thirst."). So I've got just a little more downtime before we formally introduce ourselves and then have dinner. Hold down the fort in Sacto., and I will be in touch soon with another dispatch. Salud!

So it's the afternoon of Valentine's Day and you want to do something sweet with your sweetie. Here's an idea, and one that doesn't cost a grip. Check out the tasting of wine and chocolates at Capitol Cellars (110 Diamond Creek Place, Ste. 100, Roseville) from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturday. The lineup of includes some crisp and fruit whites, including Caymus 2006 Conundrum California White Table Wine and Mer Soliel 2006 Silver Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay. On the red side, Capitol Cellars will feature tastes of Belle Glos 2007 Meiomi Central Coast Pinot Noir and the acclaimed Educated Guess 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Just make sure you wash your palate well with water because red wine and chocolate don't really mix, right?

So listen up, lovers. This tasting costs $10 and for more information, you can call (916) 786-9030.

All my love,

Appetizers

Figures were released today about 2008's winegrape harvest, and in not such surprising news the numbers were down. An estimated 3.05 million tons of winegrapes were crushed statewide in 2008, down 6 percent from the 2007 harvest, according to Preliminary Grape Crush Report from the California Department of Food and Agriculture. Some 3.67 million tons of all grape types (table, wine and raisin varieties) were crushed in 2008.

2008 was a tough growing season, memorable for negatives like an April frost that hurt many vineyards across California and below normal rainfall. The upside is that summer and fall temperatures were overall mild, so growing grapes didn't get blasted too hard from the heat. But 2008 marked the third consecutive year of light crops, compared to the mammoth harvest of 2005 in which 3.76 million tons of wine grapes were crushed.

Here's what Leon Sobon, founder of Shenandoah Vineyards and Sobon Estate, said about Amador County's 2008 harvest in a statement:

"Our 2008 harvest started about 10 days early (and was) down 40 percent this year. Spring frosts did a lot of damage by either burning the grape bunches before they had bloomed or damaging them sufficiently so they produced bunches with fewer berries... Two years of lighter than normal rainfall added to the vineyard production problems. The 2007-2008 rainfall was 50 percent of normal and since our vineyards are dry farmed that presented a problem... Quality in general was very good. Flavors of the resulting wines are better than normal, tending toward richer and fruitier notes."

February 6, 2009
"Bottle Shock" on DVD

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(Note: corrected the winemaker behind the Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay)

Back in August there was a lot of buzz in the wine world about the movie "Bottle Shock." In case you missed it the first time around, "Bottle Shock" is now on DVD. This film centers around one of the all-time transformative blind tastings, the so-called "Judgement of Paris." Two California wines - Chateau Montelena 1973 Chardonnay and Stag's Leap Wine Cellars 1973 S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon - took top honors in their respective categories for red and white wines, beating the best from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Snooty French judges were shocked, and worldwide respect for California wines was born.

And a movie was inspired as well. "Bottle Shock" focuses on Jim and Bo Barrett, the father-son team behind Chateau Montelena, in a film that's something like the "Rocky" of wine. The movie also plays loose with the facts: Mike Grgich, the winemaker behind that winning chardonnay, is left out of the storyline. In the meantime, lots of cars break down in the film and a romantic subplot develops between Chateau Montelena's assistant winemaker (played by Freddy Rodriguez) and Sam the intern (Rachael Taylor).

Let's just say that "Bottle Shock" is no "Sideways," but it's pretty much required viewing for fellow wine geeks. Alan Rickman's performance as Steven Spurrier, the British wine merchant who organizes "The Judgement of Paris," is pretty much worth the price of admission. The DVD version of "Bottle Shock," which was released Tuesday, also comes with some bonus goodies. Extra features include a documentary about Chateau Montelena, deleted scenes and behind-the-scenes footage. So go make it a Blockbuster night, with a little "Bottle Shock" and a glass of Napa chardonnay.

February 5, 2009
Furlough Fridays at Rubicon

Attn.: State workers
From: Rubicon Brewing Company
Re: Furlough Fridays, 10 percent discount

Due to mandatory unpaid days off on the first and third Fridays of each month - otherwise known as "furloughs" - affected state workers are being encouraged to spend those days off with a pint of ale in hand. Rubicon Brewing Company, the midtown microbrewery at 2004 Capitol Ave., is offering a 10 percent discount to state employees on their bill during furlough days. Whether you're classified as an SSA, OA, OT or any other state employee acronym, the Rubicon is prepared to cut you a break.

"If they take a pay cut, why shouldn't we?" said Rubicon owner Glynn Phillips in a statement.

The 10 percent discount related to this memo will commence Feb. 6, and conclude upon which date the furlough order is terminated by Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger (also known as: your boss). Thank you for your attention - now back to work.

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Oh, Hitachino Nest White Ale, how much I love you - I mean, how much I hate to love you. Before this all starts sounding like an Erasure song, let me explain.


Hitachino Nest White Ale, I remember when we first met. Josh Nelson from the Selland restaurant family introduced us back in November. He said that you weren't the typical Japanese beer - you know, the dry type that's often brewed in Canada and makes for a boring date.

From that first pour, Hitachino Nest White Ale, I knew you were different from the others. I was struck by your golden and slightly hazy color, with a fizzy but light foam. And then I took a sniff, my eyes growing huge like an anime character. Belgian styled ales like you usually boast some wonderful aromatics, but I'd never smelled a beer like you. Once I inhaled those wonderful orange, ginger and coriander scents, well let's just say I was totally sprung.

And how I loved your spritziness when I took a drink, plus all of that maltiness and fruitiness that made this love at first sip. You have a fairly light body, but I've never had a beer in this style with so much character. Some burly hophead types might think you sound too much like a soda-beer, but I will defend your honor until the end.

So here's the part that makes my heart sink: in stores you cost a little over $5 for a single 11.2 ounce bottle. In such local restaurants as the Kitchen and L Wine Lounge and Urban Kitchen, you can cost from $8 to $9 per bottle. I understand that you're not a cheap date since you're produced in small lots, utilizing some sake brewing techniques and have to be imported from Ibaraki, Japan.


Hitachino Nest White Ale, I could buy a six-pack of Budweiser for the same amount spent on only one of you. But all of those Buds put together don't come close to your character in just one glass. But $5 per bottle? Why do you have to play with my emotions like that?


It's tough when I see you on the shelves at Corti Brothers and the BevMo on Arden Way. I try to resist, but too often I end up taking you home. You're best poured in a snifter glass to capture your aromatics, and I'm known to enjoy you in a large Bordeaux wine glass. That may sound like hearsay (or perhaps, "beersay") to hopheads, but I don't care.

I love you, Hitachino Nest White Ale. When I see your price, I hate you. But mostly it's love.

Some of you "Appetizers" faithful might remember my stint as the Bee's pop music critic, so here's an event that has me stoked on a couple of levels. Maynard James Keenan, lead singer for the heavyweight hard rock band Tool, is coming to Whole Foods (4315 Arden Way) on Feb. 19 from 4:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m. When Keenan isn't making mosh pits go buckwild with Tool, he's the vintner behind Arizona Stronghold Vintners and the founder of Caduceus Cellars/Merkin Vineyards. Keenan's wines have traditionally been hard to find in Sacramento, but Whole Foods now carries them with prices ranging from $24.99 to a rock star-ish $109.

But to get a glimpse of Keenan, you first have to buy one of his wines. He won't sign anything but wine bottles at this event, so leave that copy of "Undertow" at home.

Stay tuned for our interview with Keenan, where we can all find out more about the terroir of Arizona's Kansas Settlement and why wine strikes such a big chord in him.

"The only constant these days is change," said Jim Trezise from the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, as he opened one of today's sessions at Unified Wine & Grape Symposium. The topic of the morning was "changing trends in changing times" in the wine industry, and was perhaps the best general session of this wine symposium thus far. Attendance at the Hyatt Regency's ballroom, however, was on the lighter side and due perhaps to all the Unified wining and dining going on last night.

The emphasis on this panel was, like with other discussions over the week, centered around the economy and growing consumption of value wines. The United States is poised to become the largest consumer of wine by 2012, and a key to this rise is the "millennial" generation of ages 32 and under. Research shows that the portion of this demographic that is of legal drinking age is especially interested in drinking wine and more active among other age groups in visiting wine bars and joining wine clubs. But it's value that everyone is looking for, and this new surge in wine interest will be driven by affordable table wines versus high-end trophy bottles.

"The $10 bottle is the new $20 bottle, and the $20 bottle is the new $100 bottle," said John Gillespie of Wine Colleagues, a St. Helena-based advocate for wine businesses.

Rising interest in "foodie" culture, including such movies as "Ratatouille" and the Food Newtork, also bodes well for wine culture, said San Francisco wine consultant Courtney Cochran. But notions of elitism and snobbery in the wine world may be stunting some of this growth. The overall message: opportunities exist for the expansion of wine as a part of everyday American life, even in these tough economic times.

Meanwhile, the Sacramento Convention Center's exhibition halls are still buzzing with the trade show. And the crush got especially mighty Wednesday evening as wine tasting featuring various regions around the country got underway. But now, it's time to log off this laptop and head to a seminar on business issues in the wine industry. Salud!


Now's the time of the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium when you hear attendees around the Sacramento Convention Center mutter things about needing a power nap, or perhaps a drink. It's been an action packed day so far, with the "state of the industry" panel at 8:30 a.m. and the opening of the massive trade show. Walk inside the Convention Center's exhibit halls, and you'll find just about everything related to the world of wine. We're talking booths on corks, capsules, civil engineering, computer software, consultants, cooperage, crushers ... and that's just the wine-related stuff that starts with "c." Some 575 exhibitors are showing off their wares, and walking around this trade show is resulting in some very tired feet. The good news is that some wine tasting is on tap from 4 p.m. - 6 p.m., with such wine regions as Amador, Lodi, Santa Cruz, Sonoma and more than a dozen other locales showing off their vino. This will be the perfect way to wind down ... but it'll all kick off again on Thursday morning at 9:30 a.m. The general session will be a panel discussion on changing trends in the wine industry, plus another day of smaller group discussions and more trade show action. We'll bring you more highlights ... but now it's about time to locate a glass and get in line.

Day two of the 2009 Unified Wine Grape Symposium kicked off this morning in downtown Sacramento, with E&J Gallo Winery being named "2008 winery of the year." The Modesto-based winery was especially lauded for its bargain-friendly Barefoot Cellars brand, which E&J Gallo purchased in 2005. Barefoot Cellars wines found the largest revenue and volume increases of all brands in food stores, and was the seventh overall largest brand. E&J Gallo's total volume grew by some 1.5 million cases to all markets in 2008.

Bogle Vineyards of Clarksburg and the 7 Deadly Zins brand of Lodi's Michael-David Winery were noted as "hot American brands and wineries in 2008" for their strong sales.

News was mixed in the "state of the industry" report, which opened the morning general session. Sales remain strong for "everyday wines" sold for $7 and under - the "Two Buck Chucks" of the wine world - but a proposed excise surtax on alcoholic beverages remains a specter on the wine industry, especially its potential impact on bargain wines.
Domestic shipments of California wine were up 2 percent in 2008, but this growth was the least seen by the industry in a decade.

Other highlights from the "state of the industry" session:

- The size of domestic wine grape crops is in a three-year decline, and the size of 2008's crop was smaller than the previous year. Vine removal and drought are driving this trend.

- Pinot noir remains an increasingly popular grape for planting, but there are questions of pinot noir's viability in "value" growing regions of California such as the Central Valley. Plantings of pinot noir may also be reaching market capacity.

- The "millennial" generation (ages 32 and under) is seen as key for the growth and viability of the wine industry.

- Sales of wine over the holiday season were overall solid, bucking the downward trends seen at other retail. Cabernet sauvignon at both low and high price points sold exceptionally well, as did bargain chardonnay.

-Frugality is now seen as "hip" and consumers continue to seek values and lower priced wines.

Panelists for the "state of the industry" included: Nat DiBuduo (Allied Grape Growers), Andrew Waterhouse (Univeristy of California, Davis), Jon Fredrikson (Gomberg-Fredrikson & Associates) and Bill Turpentine (Turrentine Brokerage). The panel was moderated by Michael Silacci (Opus One, and president of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture).

"Appetizers" is rooting right now for Timothy Hollingsworth, a chef with Placerville roots who is representing the United States in the Bocuse d'Or. This is the mother-of-all international cooking competitions, held every two years in Lyon, France and founded by Paul Bocuse (a.k.a. "the father of modern French cooking"). The first day of this two-day competition kicked off today, and Hollingsworth and his team are hoping to become the first Americans to win the Bocuse d'Or.

Hollingsworth, a 28-year-old chef at the French Laundry in Yountville, has spent the last three months on sabbatical and preparing for the competition in a training kitchen. He's required to prepare eight dishes for a panel of 24 international judges, and yes, this is one pressure cooker of a contest.

Go Placerville!

For more on Hollingsworth and the Bocuse d'Or, check this story from the Los Angeles Times.

The New York Times is also blogging from the Bocuse d'Or.

The wine industry descended on downtown Sacramento this morning for the opening of the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium. Now in its 15th year, the event gathers winemakers, grape growers, marketing professionals, enologists and other related professions for the country's largest wine and grape conference. More than 11,000 attendees are expected over the duration of the event, which runs through Friday at the Sacramento Convention Center and downtown's Hyatt Regency hotel.

Navigating through economic hard times is an overriding theme of this year's event. The symposium opened with a general session titled "Why business is embracing sustainability," with a panel of speakers talking about the value of eco-friendly wine growing for both business and farming concerns. Ken McCorkle, executive vice president of agricultural industries for Wells Fargo Bank, started his presentation with a sobering array of graphs and charts that illustrated the challenging economic climate. McCorkle's overall message: wineries can save money and keep themselves competitive by going "sustainable" and reducing costs related to energy, water, chemicals and other factors.

Tom Selfridge, president of Hess Winery, illustrated some of these savings related to sustainability in his remarks. Selfridge noted that Hess Winery was saving more than $11,000 annually from reduced energy usage, and an additional $3,000 annually by recycling. The winery also saves $1 per case by using eco-friendly practices related to labels and bottling.

Getting the idea of "sustainability" to resonate in the marketplace is still a challenge, said Laurie Demeritt of the Hartman Group, a market research and consulting group based in Washington. Based on a recent survey, Demeritt noted that many consumers are still vague on the idea of sustainability, with some thinking the term refers to food that'll keep you extra full instead of eco-friendly. She recommended that wineries not use the term "sustainability" for consumer marketing, but such terms as "responsible" and "green" are embraced more easily by consumers. Recent research also shows varying levels of intensity from consumers regarding "sustainability," but wine buyers are also somewhat willing to pay a premium for eco-friendly wines.

Gene Kahn, global sustainability officer for General Mills, spoke on eco-friendly practices related to the packaged goods industry. Kahn argued that sustainability needs to be a mainstream concept and opportunity, not just for niche products.

"(Sustainability) is a process, not a product," said Kahn.

The rest of Tuesday's symposium is dedicated to smaller panel discussions on technical issues of grape growing and wine making (i.e. Fertility and weed management practices: costs and benefits). Wednesday's symposium opens with a "state of the industry" general session, and expect a lot more commentary on how the economic downturn is affecting the wine industry. A trade show at the Sacramento Convention Center will also open, with some 575 exhibitors showing off the latest technologies and products related to the wine and grape industry.

Stay tuned for more dispatches from Unified Wine & Grape Symposium.

Think Lodi is just the land of zinfandel? Michael-David Winery showed that its cabernet sauvignon can beat the big boys from Napa. The Michael-David 2004 Rapture Cabernet Sauvignon recently won "best of class" at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Compeition in the category for "cabernet sauvignon - $45 and over." The competition included such venerable Napa wineries as Clos Du Val, Cakebread Cellars and Turnbull Wine Cellars.

"We're proving that Lodi can keep company with some of California's most celebrated winemaking regions," said Mike Phillips, the co-owner of Michael-David, in a statement.

The Rapture 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon sells for $59, and can be ordered here.

Michael-David nabbed a number of other awards at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Compeition: "Best of class" in the $15 to $25 Syrah category for the 2005 6th Sense Syrah; double gold for the 2005 Earthquake Cabernet Sauvignon; gold medals for the 2007 7 Heavenly Chards, the 2005 Earthquake Petite Syrah, 2006 Gluttony Zinfandel and 2006 Windmill Petite Sirah.

In news related to local winners in the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, here's a piece about Casque Wines from Loomis, which won best of class in the category for "Rhone, Other White Varietals and Blends."

Here's a link to the Inaugural lunch menu, a feast that was held earlier at the U.S. Capitol. This lunch was a three-course affair paired with three California wines: Duckhorn Vineyards 2007 sauvignon blanc, Goldeneye 2005 Anderson Valley pinot noir and Korbel Natural "Special Inaugural Cuvee" sparkling wine.

If you want to sip like a head of state
, here are some tips on finding two of these wines around Sacramento:

Duckhorn Vineyards 2007 sauvignon blanc
Note: This tangy and toasty sauvignon blanc from Napa is a fairly creamy expression of the varietal. This wine also includes 25% semillon, and 13.5 percent alcohol.
Cost: Approx. $27.
Available at: Beyond Napa Wine Merchants (2580 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento; 916-481-8665); Capitol Cellars, (110 Diamond Creek Place, Roseville; 916-786-9030); Selland's Market Cafe (5340 H St.; 916-736-3333) and Whole Foods stores.

Goldeneye 2005 Anderson Valley pinot noir
Note: An offshoot of Duckhorn, this winery specializes in pinot noir from Anderson Valley with cherry and strawberry notes. 14.5 percent alcohol.
Cost: Approx. $55
Available at: Beyond Napa Wine Merchants, and Capitol Cellars.

January 20, 2009
More kudos for Corti

Darrell Corti, the grocer and gourmand behind Corti Brothers, is set to receive an award for his dedication to Italian wines. On Jan. 27 Corti will be inaugurated into the Italian Trade Commission's Hall of Fame at a dinner and ceremony in New York City, with such fellow inductees as Piero Selvaggio (Valentino Ristorante; Santa Monica, Ca.), Burton Anderson (author of "The Wines Atlas of Italy") and Victor Hazan (author of "Italian Wine").

It's the second hall of fame honor for Corti in two years. In March of 2008, Corti was inducted into the Vintners Hall of Fame, along with such wine legends as Paul Draper (Ridge Vineyards) and Milijenko "Mike" Grgich (Grgich Hills Winery). These upcoming accolades are for "outstanding leadership, contribution and lifelong dedication to the appreciation, education and marketing of Italian wines in the U.S."

January 16, 2009
I'll drink to that

Got some good news that I wanted to share. I just found out that I've won a fellowship to attend the 2009 Symposium for Professional Wine Writers, to be held over four days next month at Meadowood in Napa Valley. I'd sent my clips to the judging panel in December, keeping my fingers crossed that I'd score one of these fellowships worth $1,600. The symposium is a great opportunity to meet and learn from some of the top wine writers in the country. The speakers this year include:

Eric Asimov - chief wine critic from the New York Times and author of "The Pour" (one of my favorite wine blogs)

Karen MacNeil - author of "The Wine Bible"

Frank Prial - longtime New York Times reporter and wine columnist

Barbara Fairchild - editor-in-chief of Bon Appetit

Ted and Matt Lee - brothers and wine columnists for Martha Stewart Living.

So I'll be spending my time in writing workshops, discussing current issues in wine and food journalism, and yes, drinking some wine and fine tuning my palate during tasting panels. Some of the wineries involved in sponsoring the fellowship program include: Blackbird Vineyards, Far Niente, Peju, Plumpjack, Robert Mondavi Winery, Shafer Vineyards and Silverado Vineyards.

I'll be blogging here during some of my downtime at the symposium. In the meantime, it's back to more wine writing - but with my mind on Napa next month.

January 15, 2009
And the survey says ...

The results are in from Zagat Survey's first guide to Sacramento restaurants. 192 Sacramento area restaurants were sampled and the findings are based on the opinions of 1,264 local diners. And they consumed a lot of grub to come to these conclusions.

These diners ate more than 200,000 meals in 2008, and one of the big results: Sacramento meal prices are a relative baragain compared to the rest of the country. The average meal price was $28.43, compared to Zagat's national average of $34.03. In Sacramento's 20 most expensive restaurants, the average meal was $53.30, more than $20 less than the Zagat national average of $75.26.

The average food rating for Sacramento area restaurants also showed well. Sacramento's average food rating was 21.28 on Zagat's 30 point rating scale, just slightly higher than the national average of 21.15. Sacramento's average food rating of 21.28 was sandwiched between two venerable food towns: San Francisco (21.29) and Chicago (21.25).

According to Zagat, Sacramentans ate an average of 3.1 restaurant meals per week (the national average was 3.3). The guide was edited by Kate Washington, Carol Diuguid and Bill Corsello. We're still trying to nail down the date when the Zagat Survey for Sacramento will be released, but in the meantime here are more results:

Top 10 Most Popular

1. Mikuni
2. Biba
3. Waterboy
4. Ella Dining Room and Bar
5. Mulvaney's
6. The Kitchen
7. Il Fornaio
8. Fat's Asia Bistro
9. Ruth's Chris Steak House
10. Firehouse

Top 10 Food

1. La Bonne Soupe Cafe
2. The Kitchen
3. Waterboy
4. Mulvaney's
5. Biba
6. Ella Dining Room and Bar
7. Hawks
8. Tuli
9. Mikuni
10. Kru

Top Five Service

1. The Kitchen
2. Mulvaney's
3. Hawks
4. Waterboy
5. Ella

Top Five Best Buys

1. Whitey's Jolly Kone
2. La Bonne Soupe Cafe
3. Rick's Dessert Diner
4. Willie's Burgers
5. Squeeze Inn

January 13, 2009
Sipping on some Selland

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The four set out for Sonoma County this past Sunday morning with a single goal: blend a wine that will be sold later this year by the Selland family of restaurants. The sleepy eyed team included Josh Nelson (general manager of Ella Dining Room & Bar) and three sommelliers - Doug Nitchman (The Kitchen), David Baker (Selland's Market Cafe) and Joe Vaccaro (Ella). And the end of the road was Hirsch Vineyards, a premium wine producer especially noted for its pinot noir.

Hirsch winemaker Mark Doherty was there to help, as the crew from Sacramento tasted through 27 barrel samples of pinot noir and pondered which mix would make for the perfect blend. They also walked through the various vineyard blocks at Hirsch to get a better sense of their wine.

Tasting through all the samples and figuring what to blend was tougher than expected. But by 4 p.m., they had produced a pinot noir that'll be ready for bottling in March.

"To me, the wine had a kind of red and purple fruit to it," says Nelson. "It also had underlying minerality which was really nice. It definitely has a floral side to it as well. We used only 35 percent new oak. It's not too earthy. We wanted to have something that would be approachable right away and ready to serve in our restaurants."

So what to call this blend? That's still being decided, but expect a Hirsch labeling with perhaps a "Selland Family Selection" to designate this special blend. The price of this bottle is also being worked out, but Nelson expects a retail cost of $45 per bottle. Look for this pinot noir in a couple months on the wine lists at The Kitchen, Ella and Selland's Market Cafe.

"This was a really challenging process," says Nelson. "I walked out with a little more respect for winemakers."

January 8, 2009
Got beef?

Home chefs, here's a chance to show off your prized beef recipes - and perhaps win a meaty wad of cash as well. The 28th National Beef Cook-Off is seeking your beef recipes by March 31. A premium will be placed on recipes with a healthy bent, and the press release says, "Recipe entries should shine with great taste, health and convenience and should yield four to six servings."

15 finalists will be selected for a final competition in Sonoma on Sept. 23. The grand prize winner nets $25,000, three category winners take home $10,000 each and three runner-ups will receive $5,000. Now doesn't that make your mouth water?

For more details and information, surf over to www.beefcookoff.org.

In this latest installment of local restaurant closures, the Sacramento Brewing Company's Oasis (7811 Madison Ave., Citrus Heights) closed today after 13 years of serving beers. This news was passed along in an e-mail from Peter Hoey, the brewmaster at Sacramento Brewing Company. But not all is lost for beer aficionados. The Town and Country location remains open (2713 El Paseo Lane, Sacramento) and the brewery's distrubution will continue throughout the Sacramento area, southern California and the San Francisco Bay Area.

"While closing the one restaurant is not good it is allowing us to focus on our brewpub and continue to serve our local community tasty craft beer," said Hoey in an e-mail.

For more information, including what to do if you purchased a keg from the Oasis, check out the Sacramento Brewing Company's blog.

Local corkage policies are the topic du jour around here, including my "Wine Buzz" column today which focused on the free corkage program at Bandera. This was a follow up from last week's corkage column, which was prompted by a reader who took a $10 bottle of Bogle wine to Paragary's Bar and Oven. After the $20 corkage fee, he was the not-so proud consumer of a $30 bottle of Bogle.

But here's a tip on getting free corkage at Paragary's and its group of restaurants, including Centro, Cosmo Cafe, Spataro and Cosmo Cafe. Buy any California wine at Whole Foods Market, be it Bogle or any other wine from the Golden State. They'll give you a sticker to put on that bottle, and when you bring that bottle to any Paragary restaurant: voila, free corkage.

This promotion lasts indefinitely, and Whole Foods also plans to bring some of Paragary's chefs into the store for some cooking demonstrations. Sound good? Happy New Year, and see y'all in the wine department at Whole Foods.

December 26, 2008
My $.02 cents

OK, couldn't help but chime in with my own thoughts re: appropriate dress for fine dining. I certainly appreciate Blair's sartorial sense, and believe that it's better to be overdressed than underdressed for an occasion. I've also felt embarassed by some of my fellow dudes that I've seen dining, like the guy chowing down at Biba's while wearing shorts, a Tommy Bahama shirt and flip-flops. Definitely not appropos ...

As for wearing jeans to a destination restaurant, I say it depends on the kind of jeans. If you're wearing some old Levi 501s with patches in the knees, it's best to leave those for gardening or cleaning the garage. But if your jeans cost more than, say, dinner for two at Grange Restaurant, then you're probably OK. No matter the price, I'd stay away from jeans that were too distressed or have holes anywhere. And if you do opt for jeans, it's best to dress them up with a blazer and collared shirt (i.e. leave the t-shirts at home, bros). Quality shoes are also a must.

On the flipside, I've seen men in some very nice three-piece suits act like complete jerks to servers and pulling the "don't you know who I am?" routine. To me, that's uglier than a leisure suit circa the 1970s. So in my book, it's not so much what you wear, but how you carry yourself.


December 23, 2008
Super spaghetti savings

Want to see what a pasta pandemonium looks like? Visit an Old Spaghetti Factory on Jan. 6. This restaurant chain will be celebrating 40 years of red sauces and noodles on a budget, and they're rolling back prices on that day to ridiculous levels. How cheap? We're talking dinners from $2.35 - $3.45 per person and includes salad, entree and dessert. Kids' spaghetti meals will be just $1.95. That's practically pocket change for all that pasta and other vittles. We're also expecting lines around the block for this 40th anniversary special, so good luck on getting this meal deal. But the bonus news is that Spaghetti Factory will have a 40% off deal on Mondays and Tuesdays for the last three weeks of January. It's pasta at practically pennies a serving, and the right sort of feast during the financial market's meltdown. Mangia!

December 19, 2008
In the mix

Mason Wong is kicking back on a couch at the Park Ultra Lounge, sporting work boots with a winter jacket by his side. The cool Diesel shoes and blazer will wait for another day - at least until Dec. 31. That's when Wong is set to open Mix Downtown on 16th and L streets in the renovated Firestone building. The plan is for a New Year's Eve blowout and grand opening party, but on this day, the only music coming from Mix Downtown is a cacophony of construction.

Mix Downtown is a $3 million project, with 8,000 square-feet of space that will include swanky VIP booths, a spacious outdoor lounge and boomin' sound system. The preliminary menu focuses on small plates for sharing, including trios of soups, beef sliders and other fodder for late night snacking. And of course, plenty of drinking will be going down here. Mix Downtown will feature 25 wines by the glass, but which ones to pour? That's being worked out by Darrell Corti, who is a consultant for Mix Downtown's wine program. Plan on champagne and sparkling wine tastings on Wednesdays, wine flights and pairings on Thursdays and a martini program on Fridays.

Wong knows this is a tricky time to launch a new club, given the shaky economy. And there's the competition, some of it from Wong's own enterprise. Just a block away from Mix Downtown, Wong already runs Mason's Restaurant and its adjacent Park Ultra Lounge. So Wong is aiming for a particular niche: those who might feel old compared to those just-turned-21 clubbers, but not too old and fuddy duddy to party.

"The economy's definitely bad now, but people still want to be entertained," says Wong. "We're trying to fill a niche and do something different than what other places are doing. We're targeting a little older audience: 30 to 35 year-olds. So we've got things like scotch and cigars on Tuesdays, and a 'girl's night out' on Wednesdays with champagne and bubbles. We're also setting up a 'Dirty 30' VIP club, where you can go straight to the head of the line if you're 30 or older."

The music at Mix Downtown will also skew a little older than the typical hot spot. The playlists at Mix Downtown will lean toward old-school, disco and funk from DJ Larry Rodriguez on Saturday nights, and an '80s format for Fridays.

Wong describes Mix Downtown's decor as "organic and Malibu-ish" but balanced with accents of steel and cement throughout the club. Seeing all this in action will have to wait a couple weeks, so until then, you'll find Wong in his work boots and surveying the work crews.

"You've got to stay fresh and change things up," says Wong, as crunch time for construction continues.

Hey gang, guess what? "Appetizers" is soon going to feature more contributors from our Food & Wine section. First up, we've got Gina Kim, our hostess with the most-est and star of "In the Kitchen With Gina Kim." Her videos for sacbee.com have given us tips in making tamales, the proper way to roast pumpkin seeds and other how-to segments. Gina also makes some grubbin' sticky rice, and I've already had two helping of this at our department potluck today. Also on board soon for "Appetizers" is Blair Anthony Robertson, the Bee's cyclist supreme and newest restaurant reviewer. He'll be chiming in with some behind-the-scene goodies, culinary finds around town and other tasty stuff.

So think of "Appetizers" as the "21Q of Food," or a potluck-styled blog from the Bee's food writers. The three of us are taking a group photo later today, and we've got some fun and potentially messy ideas about taking this group shot while keeping Blair anonymous. Look for posts from Gina and Blair soon, and meanwhile I'll continue to blog away. But now, it's back to the potluck and see what scraps are left ...

December 15, 2008
On a Sunday afternoon ...

Here's a little heads-up: I've got the cover story in Wednesday's Food & Wine section about local butchers, some tips on working with one and a list of some notable meat purveyors around the 916 area code. My story was pretty much wrapped up on Friday, but wanted to pop into a couple more spots over the weekend. So I braved the cold and rain, and headed to South Sacramento on Sunday afternoon. First was a drive down Stockton Blvd., past Luigi's Pizza and Cafe au Creme (a.k.a. the home of "Barbecue Bobby" and the best ribs in Sac.), and then over to Vinh Phat Supermarket. What an epic Asian market and the clientele was fairly multi-culti on this day, waiting in line for service at the meat counter or checking out the tanks of live lobsters.

But this outing was more of an excuse to visit Carniceria Lopez Market #2. This is a great lil' Mexican meat market and the place to pick up carne asada for grilling during the outdoor cooking season. There's also a taqueria located in the market, and figured I'd grab some take-out tacos for lunch. So I headed to Franklin Blvd. and made my stop. Even though mi Espanol is pretty ragged, the butchers and counter folk here are always acommodating. Man, the marinated flank steaks were looking good. Made me want to curse the clouds and fire up the grill.

Then I went to the taqueria to place an order for tacos to go, plus a bottle of Mexican Coca-Cola. Quick side point ... As far as I'm concerned, Mexican Coke is truly "the real thing." The Mexican version uses cane sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup used by its gringo counterpart. That's why Mexican Coke tastes more balanced and far less cloying than what we've become used to in the U.S. of A. But back to the food, I also ordered three tamales at $1.25 each and my bill for everything (taco combination plate, three tamales, Coke en Espanol) was about $11. Not bad ... then I hurried home to scarf it all down.

The tacos de carne asada were very good, slightly crispy on the meat's edges and a little tangy with a squirt of lime. I also liked the little bits of corn mixed in with the accompanying rice. Wash it down with Mexican Coke and all was good in this 'hood. The tamales, however, were just OK. These guys didn't rank very well in the Bee's recent tamale tasting, but showed a little better on Sunday. The masa held up well - the problem was there was too much of it. There either needed more meat or less masa to get that equilibrium that comes with the best tamales. And yes, I'll say once again that I'm a tamale snob, but I still ate two of them on Sunday. In fact, I've still got one left in the 'fridge and I doubt that'll last more than a few hours. All I need is another bottle of Mexican Coca-Cola ...

December 12, 2008
And brush your teeth, too ...

There's lots of food handling going 'round this holiday season, but don't let food-borne illness be the Grinch that stole your jolly feasting. The January 2009 issue of ShopSmart has seven strategies for buying safe food. So let's say "no way" to stomach cramps and heed ShopSmart's list:

1. Look at the date on the package. Although it's no guarantee the meat won't make you sick, choose a date with the most leeway.

2. Check packages for loose juice. It can be a source of bacteria. So if the meat packages are leaking, sticky, or wet, ask the butcher to cut a dry piece.

3. Bag it. Put a plastic bag (get one from the produce aisle if you can't find one near the meat) over your hand and use it as a glove. Slip the bag back over the package of meat you select to prevent bacteria from contaminating you, your other groceries, or your fridge.

4. Sniff it. If meat smells off, don't buy it because it might not be fresh. (Even if it smells OK, however, that's no guarantee it's not loaded with bacteria.) And never rely on color alone since meat can be treated with carbon monoxide to make it look red and fresh.

5. Get meat ground fresh. Cuts of meat are held to a higher standard than ground. Choose cuts and have your trusted butcher grind them. The machine should be clean.

6. Look for firm fish. The flesh shouldn't have any gaps between the muscle fibers. Also sniff it; fish shouldn't smell fishy or like urine or ammonia. If you're buying whole fish, check the eyes; they should be clear, not cloudy.

7. Take along a cooler bag. Or ask to have meat and fish packed in a bag of ice so it stays cool. That will help slow the growth of bacteria.

December 10, 2008
Was blind, but now I see

Last night was all about sensory evaluation and overload, and some of the effects I'm still feeling today. My sense of hearing is a little wacky after Will Haven's pulverizing set at Harlow's, a benefit for Deftones bassist Chi Cheng. But before that concert for a righteous cause, I spent a great evening tasting at Rail Bridge Cellars, an urban winery just north of downtown. The event was a collaboration between Rail Bridge Cellars winemaker Jon Affonso and Donal Smith, wine merchant for Corti Brothers. The tasting was something of a one-night version of Donal's wine appreciation courses, which are generally held over three classes.

So about 30 of us, including my pal and collegue Rick Kushman, took a seat inside a somewhat chilly Rail Bridge Cellars. We were thankful for the heat lamps, but the setting was still communal and cozy, especially with a pour of Rail Bridge Cellar's crisp and green apple-ish 2006 Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc. Jon then gave us a tour of the winery, explained his background and adherence to French winemaking principles (Jon's such a Francophile that he spent time there as a high school exchange student) and answered our questions about his winemaking style.

And then it was time for Donal's tasting seminar. The catch: we'd be evaluating all the wines blind. This is always fun, if not a little daunting to taste a wine and guess what's in the glass. I wondered, as the first flight was poured, if I was up to snuff. Was the Bee guy going to embarass himself? So Don takes us through the first flight, asking us to consider the clarity, color, nose, taste and so forth. Then he asked us what we thought the first wine was. The nose of stone fruit and a touch of pineapple, plus a little residual sugar on the palate meant one thing to me.

"Riesling!" I said. So did a woman at the table behind me.

"Chenin Blanc!" was the cry from another taster.

Chenin Blanc was correct, Don said. And that in the background was the sound of my wine ego deflating slightly. Wa-wa-waaaaa ...

The second set of flights started with an easier one. The buttery nose - something like a liquified version of movie popcorn - with a note of banana taffy screamed Rombauer chardonnay to both Rick and I. We were right on the $$$. The wine after that was a weird one, with a smell of canned pear juice but a taste that was pleasing and floral. Had no clue what this was, and didn't attempt to guess. A-ha, turns out it was an unoaked chardonnay from Bocage. I've had plenty of unoaked chards but never one like this.

I did a lot better on the last two flights, guessing correctly that we'd been served two glasses each of petite sirah and zinfandel. But figuring this out wasn't a slam dunk, especially with the petite sirah that had a few years of bottle age. The Michael-David Earthquake Zinfandel was easier to guess as an example of Lodi zinfandel, with its raisin notes and high alcohol heat.

And then we were served munchies from Corti Brothers deli and had an opportunity to mingle and drink more of the wine we'd previously tasted blind. Both Rick and I went back for the Dry Creek Vineyard chenin blanc, and as I drank it, tasted carefully so this varietal wouldn't stump me again. But it was all in fun, the way wine should be, and Donal's goal for all these guessing games is to give us the grounding to make us better wine consumers. And sometimes you need a little slice of humble pie to get there.

December 9, 2008
Hot tamales

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The title of the book above pretty much sums up my feelings about a Bee tamale tasting last week. "Too Many Tamales" is a childrens book by the wonderful author/poet Gary Soto. He also penned one of my favorite poems, an achingly lyrical piece called "The Elements of the San Joaquin" which harkens back to Soto's days laboring in the farmland near Fresno.

But back to the subject at hand: tamales. We tasted a dozen or so tamales for Wednesday's Food & Wine cover story, and by the end of this session my stomach felt like it was made of masa. I was glad to see that tamales from my beloved La Esperanza showed well, though they didn't take the top honors. You'll have to wait until tomorrow to see the final rankings in this great tamale showdown.

I also learned that I'm pretty much a tamale snob. (Would that be "sangron de tamales" in Espanol?). But guess I'm just spoiled. I grew up in a family that made some seriously bomb diggity tamales each holiday season. And though mom is gone and her tamale touch is missed, I'm lucky to have so many great tamale makers in my extended family. I always look forwarded to these tamales - plump with meat, surrounded by moist masa and impossible to eat just one.

I thought about all this during the Bee's tasting, looking for tamales that had a good ratio of meat-to-masa, felt firm but moist under the fork and with a spicy kick. Restaurant tamales generally pale to the homebaked ones, but the tamales in our tasting were fairly good on the whole. There were a couple that suffered from mealy and dry masa - and one had a filling that tasted like Chunky soup - but the tamales that came out on top will do you right.

Question: any of you have tamale stories to share, or want to spill the beans on your favorite tamales around Sacramento? Leave a comment ... orale!

December 9, 2008
Twofer Tuesday

Here are a couple more wine related events to consider for this week. With all the tastings going on, Sacramento just might become the capital of purple stained tongues. Add these to your calendar:

Wednesday

Get your swank on and head to the Park Ultra Lounge (1116 15th St.) and sample wines from d'Art Winery, a Lodi-based producer. $5 per glass and jazz tunes by the Midtown Music Makers. The tasting runs from 5:30 p.m. - 7:30 p.m.

Friday

And oh yes, I'm all about this tasting. David Berkley Fine Wines & Specialty Foods (515 Pavilions Lane) is hosting flights of champagne/sparkling wine and munchies for $15. The line-up is a good one that includes a mix of the big champagne houses and small "grower champagne" estates. Look for champagnes/sparklers from:

Diebolt-Vallois
Mumm de Cramant
Taittinger
Lucien Albrecht
Dampierre
Billecart-Salmon
Bollinger
Gruet

The tasting runs from 4:30 p.m. - 7 p.m. Information: (916) 929-4422.

BTW, be on the lookout for a special "bubbly" package in Wednesday's Food & Wine section. We've got tasting notes on some of the champagnes listed above, a whole lot of picks to consider and Rick Kushman's "Good Life" column will focus on all-things sparkling. Check it out ... cheers!

December 8, 2008
The week in wine

Let's take a look at some of the sipping and sampling that's going down this week:

Tuesday

Rail Bridge Cellars (400 North 16th St.) and Donal Smith, the wine merchant at Corti Brothers, are teaming up for a one-night tasting seminar. Ever wanted to test your blind tasting skills? Here's your chance. Rail Bridge Cellars' wines and selections from Corti Brothers will be poured blind as part of a sensory evaluation exercise. Food from Corti Brothers' deli will be for the munching, and tours of Rail Bridge Cellars will also be available to interested folks. The tasting statrs at 7:30 p.m. and costs $29. Reservations need to be made in advance. For more information: (916) 492-2530 or e-mail Donal Smith at donalswines@yahoo.com.

Wednesday

L Wine Lounge and Urban Kitchen (1801 L Street Suite 50) is featuring Italian varietals from both Italy and California for this week's tasting. You get to sample five wines for $10, and here's the lineup:

Farnese '05 Sangiovese, Farneto, Italy

Pasos Vineyards '06 Alta Mesa Sangiovese, Lodi

Cooper '06 Estate Barbera, Amador

Braida '06 'Il Baciale', Piedmont, Italy

San Felice '03 Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva, Tuscany, Italy

The tasting runs from 6 p.m. - 8 p.m. For more information: (916) 443-6970.

Also on Wednesday ... 58 Degrees & Holding Co. (1217 18th St.) is aiming the spotlight on wines from the wines out of the Santa Ynez and Santa Maria. Wines from Curran, featuring former Sea Smoke winemaker Kris Curran, and DiBruno will be poured. $10 for five pours, and the tasting runs from 5 p.m. - 7 p.m. Information: (916) 442-5858.


Friday

Enotria Restaurant & Wine Bar (1431 Del Paso Blvd.) is featuring Napa Valley red wines for this week's tasting line-up. Call (916) 922-6792 for the wines and price.

Saturday

Revolution Wines (2116 P St.) is hosting live art demonstrations, holiday music and gifts as part of the Sacramento Christmas Walk & Bazaar. And you can bet plenty of wine tasting will be had as well. $5, with proceeds benefitting the Sacramento Children's Home. The event runs from 12 p.m. - 10 p.m. Information: (916) 444-7711.

December 5, 2008
At the library

Wanted to get this post in sooner, but I just got the info. I was looking for. You see, Capitol Cellars (110 Diamond Creek Place, Roseville) is hosting a tasting of library wines on Saturday from 2 p.m. - 6 p.m. That means the store is going to break open bottles from older vintages and leave that young stuff on the shelf for now. It's a great way to see how a wine's developing, and when it comes to reds, get to taste with some of the puckery tannins smoothed out.

But my question was: which wines are going to be served? It took a bit to find this out, but now we're good to go. Here's the line-up:

2003 Ascent Sierra Foothills Syrah
2004 Barnett Vineyards Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay
2001 Barnett Vineyards Spring Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
2001 Behrens & Hitchcock Oakville Merlot
2000 Behrens & Hitchcock Fortuna Vineyard Merlot
2004 Londer Vineyards Kent Richie Vineyards Chardonnay

"We want to have a fun and educational setting for people," says Marcus Graziano, the owner of Capitol Cellars. "You'll really get to see how a chardonnay can benefit from a couple years of age."

The tasting costs $20, and the wines will be on sale under a very limited availability. For more information: (916) 786-9030.

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Appetizers sends its congratulations to Mike Mraz, an El Dorado Hills resident who was recently named as the Sierra Nevada California Homebrewer of the Year. You pretty much have to be a hero of hops to win this award. This title goes to the homebrewer with the highest point total after competing in three beer competitions: the California State Fair, the California State Homebrewing Competition and the Maltose Falcons Mayfaire. After all the suds were sipped at these competitions and the points were totaled, our man Mike Mraz emerged as "homebrewer of the year."

"You can't brew just one good beer," says Mraz about what it takes to win this title. "There's about 23 different categories that you have to be sufficient with. You need a variety of pale ale, IPA and Belgian specialties. But the one beer that did me the best is the pale ale. Some are too sweet, so I added some more of a hops presence and kept it more balanced."

Mraz has only been brewing for two years and crafts these winning beers when he's not working as a financial planner. These beers are made in 20 gallon batches, and sometimes brewed in his backyard. The bad news for most of us is Mraz isn't allowed to sell his beers, so they're mostly given away to some very lucky family and friends.

The prize booty for this homebrewer award includes $500 and an opportunity to brew a batch of beer at Sierra Nevada Brewing Company in Chico. The bragging rights, however, are priceless.

December 2, 2008
Dine on a cheaper dime

The timing of this event isn't the best - you know, right after the New Year when everyone's trying to lose that belly fat from the holidays. But sit-ups and Spanx be darned, it'll soon be time for Dine Downtown Restaurant Week. This all goes down from Jan. 10 - 16, when two dozen downtown eateries offer a fixed three-course menu for $30 per person. That's a great deal for the wallet, maybe not so good for your waist size. Many of downtown's destination restaurants are participating, and they include:

4th Street Grille, 58º and Holding Co., Brew It Up!, The Broiler Steakhouse, Chops Steak, Seafood & Bar, Cosmo Café, Dawson's at the Hyatt, Esquire Grill, Fat City Bar & Café, The Firehouse Restaurant, Frank Fat's, Fuzio, Gaylord India, Grange Restaurant at The Citizen, Il Fornaio, Mason's New American, McCormick & Schmick's, Melting Pot, Morgan's at the Sheraton, Pilot House on The Delta King, Rio City Café, River City Brewing Company, Spataro, and Table 260.

Part of this promotion is meant to keep restaurant seats filled in January, traditionally the slowest month of the year in the restaurant industry. After the financial hangover from holiday shopping, a lot of folks simply opt out from restaurant dining in January. But these prix-fixe menus at $30 a pop is a pretty good way to tempt locals.

So do you plan to pull up a napkin and fork during Dine Downtown Restaurant Week? Leave a comment, por favor.

December 2, 2008
Cheers to these vintners

The latest entrants into the Vintners Hall of Fame have been announced, and this esteemed bunch includes a local connection. Dr. Carole Meredith, a former professor at UC Davis' department of viticulture and enology, is among the honorees for her work in grape genetics. She utilized DNA methods to discover the origins of some of our most favorite wine grapes: cabernet sauvignon, syrah, chardonnay and zinfandel. Dr. Meredith is also the co-owner of Lagier-Meredith, a Napa winery that specializes in an especially spicy version of syrah.

The other honorees include: Gerald Asher (Gourmet magazine), Warren Winiarski (Stag's Leap Wine Cellars), Jess Jackson (Kendall-Jackson Estates), Justin Meyer (co-founder of Silver Oak), and Jack and Jamie Davies (founders of Schramsberg Vineyards). Frederick and Jacob Beringer - founders of Beringer Winery - received this year's Vintners Hall of Fame "Pioneer" award. Inductions, coupled with some very swanky food and wine events, will be held on March 13th and 14th at St. Helena's Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.

The nominating committee included two local notables: Mike Dunne, the Bee's recently departed food and wine editor; and grocer/gourmand Darrell Corti, who was a 2008 inductee of the Vintners Hall of Fame.

There seems to be some confusion about the status of local Macaroni Grill outlets, so "Appetizers" is here to help set this record straight. A recent report on KCRA TV about local restaurant closures mentioned Macaroni Grill (along with 55 Degrees and Elk Grove Brewery & Restaurant) as examples of casualties given the current economy. It's true that the Alta Arden Expressway location shut down in March, but the story led some viewers to believe that all Macaroni Grill outlets in the area were closing as well.

Hold that focaccia bread and breathe easy: Macaroni Grill outlets in Folsom, Roseville and Elk Grove are still open and plan to stay that way. A call to Brinker International, the company that owns the Macaroni Grill chain, confirmed this infornation. Hopefully this will clear up some of the anxieties from local Macaroni Grill denizens.

"We're not going anywhere but we've had lots of people calling," says Annie Rice, the general manager for Macaroni Grill in Folsom. "Yesterday we had someone here from the Folsom City Council and asked when we were closing our doors. This location is positive in sales and in no danger of closing. I was also talking to the general manager in Elk Grove and they're getting 20 calls a day and guests coming in and asking when the last day is. This worries us because we don't want people to be afraid to buy gift cards or book parties with us."

If we hear different about the future of these Macaroni Grill restaurants, you'll be the first to know. In the meantime, mangia!


November 25, 2008
List-o-mania

While we're still in this "getting to know you phase," thought I'd list a few of my favorites related to food and wine. Feel that La Mexicana has better pan dulce than La Esperanza, or do you like the ramen better at Akebono? Please list your own local food picks in the comments section.

So now, let's cue up John Coltrane's version of "My Favorite Things" and get this party started ...

Favorite comfort foods: Empanadas from La Esperanza Bakery; a hot bowl of ramen from Edokko II; tempura ice cream at Kamon; a piping bowl of pozole at La Placita; ground steakburger at Nationwide Freezer Meats; meatloaf sandwich at Selland's Market-Cafe; mix of cherry and Coke Slurpee from the 7-11 near my house; heavyweight roast beef sandwich with pickles from Plaza Hof Brau.

Most missed restaurants/eateries: Masque during the Angelo Auriana years; the A&W on Freeport Blvd. that burned down under some shady circumstances; the Zombie Hut; the Sam's Hof Brau on J St.; the original Suzie Burger; La Pupusas in Folsom; Shige Sushi and Kagetsu.

Favorite local restaurants (always subject to change): Hawks in Granite Bay; Kru, especially that lobster tempura; Cafe au Creme (best barbecue in Sacramento - believe it); Birerria Bugambilias (my vote for best Mexican food in Sac.); Futami Japanese Restaurant; am still loyal to Tapa the World; Ella Dining Room and Bar; Mulvaney's B&L.

Favorite food related day trips: Trekking through the orchards of Apple Hill; stopping at Davis Ranch for Sloughhouse Sweet Corn; heading to Napa (on any day but a weekend) for wine tasting and foodstuffs; gotta love a sunny day tasting in the Shenandoah Valley.

Dream wines: 1968-1970 Gemello Cabernet Sauvignon; any bottle of pre-phylloxera Bordeaux;1970-1974 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon; way too much Burgundy. Hey, a guy can dream a little, right?

November 24, 2008
A new cook in this kitchen

Greetings, and no, I didn't take a wrong turn. Some of you may recognize my mug from the BeatNonStop blog on www.sacbee.com. But I've moved on from music writing, and just like a strip of Sizzlean, it's time for something meatier. I'm now covering wine and food, and this "Appetizers" blog is part of my writing menu.

So why did I go from covering Amy Winehouse to actually writing about wine? Well, the Bee made me an offer I couldn't refuse - and in a nice way that didn't involve waking up next to a horse's head. Those who know me well have heard me geeking out on food and wine matters for the last 10 years or so, like gabbing about some 1991 cabernet I scored on winebid.com, or not shutting up about that luscious taste of a 1978 Shafer, or that ridiculously creative and sumptuous tasting menu by Gabriel Glasier at Rebud Cafe, etc. etc.

Yes, this new gig is pretty sweet.

My plan is to keep "Appetizers" filled with morsels of food news, culinary finds around town, wine notes and whatever else is tasting good. But what I really want is for you all to chime in and create some dialogue through the comments section. You're all more than welcome to e-mail me at cmacias@sacbee.com.

For those keeping score at home, I've been on the food/wine beat since July. Since then I've helped pick 10 tons of zinfandel grapes near Lodi, written about the intricacies of apple cider, and recommended wines each Wednesday through my "Liquid Assets" column.

I've also spent the last few months under the tutelage of Mike Dunne, the Bee's venerable executive chef of food/wine coverage who recently retired from the paper. He was gracious enough to treat me as his understudy, including an excursion to the wine country of Amador County that he's covered for four decades. We also spent a day in Napa that was as educational is it was criminal to call work, and on a truly education end, we took a field trip to UC Davis' Robert Mondavi Institute for Wine and Food Science and introduced me to the folks out there. I'm really grateful to Mike, and hope he's hoisting a beverage of choice with family right about now.

I've got plenty more on my plate, so keep watching this space. In the meantime, did you hear that Copia: The American Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts in Napa has suspended operations?

Cheers ...



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