SCOTT R. CRAIG scraig@sacbee.com One secret

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What's Cooking: Stick to your ribs

Start with the basics, and soon you'll be grilling a rack of bones to tender perfection – seasoned with a rub you make yourself

Published: Wednesday, Aug. 13, 2008 - 12:00 am | Page 5D

When you shop for ribs, you will find three cuts of pork labeled as ribs: country style, baby back and spareribs.

Country-style ribs are not true ribs. They are cut from the loin, which is near the shoulder. They do not always include a portion of bone and they are more like a chop than a rib.

Baby backs are cut from the top portion of the rib area. They are generally leaner and smaller than spareribs. Baby backs come trimmed and ready to cook.

Spareribs are cut from the lower portion of the rib, near the same area where bacon is cut. They are fattier and meatier than baby backs and are usually cut longer. They are also much cheaper than baby backs.

Spareribs usually have a flap or membrane on the bone side that should be trimmed off before cooking. Trimming away the membrane helps the meat to cook more evenly, and the sauce or rub will penetrate better.

Plan to buy 1 pound of baby backs or spare ribs for each person. That sounds like a lot,but it makes up for the portion that can't be eaten.

One of the best ways to flavor ribs is to use a dry rub. If you make your own rub, generally the base is paprika. Then you add the other flavorings that suit your palate, such as garlic powder, onion powder, basil, dill or chili powder. Cinnamon is a nice flavor with pork.

If you'd rather buy a rub, give McCormick pork rub a try. It does an excellent job of flavoring ribs and it makes a crunchy coating as the ribs cook. Also check your butcher shop. Many have their own signature rubs which are quite nice.

To use a rub, brush the ribs with a little oil, then sprinkle them on both sides with a generous layer of rub. Wrap the ribs in plastic wrap and refrigerate them for six to eight hours or overnight or. Bring them to room temperature before placing them on the grill.

Slow-cook the ribs over indirect, medium heat. Grilling should take about two hours. Plan to turn them over about halfway through cooking.

Some people parboil their ribs before grilling. These are the novice grillers. All you accomplish by parboiling is draining off all the flavor.

If you use a mop, which is a marinade-style sauce that is brushed on frequently during grilling, apply the last layer of mop about 30 minutes before the ribs are done. Otherwise you risk contaminating cooked meat with raw meat juice. You will know when the ribs are done because the meat begins to pull back and expose the bones.

If you use a barbecue sauce, brush it on about 10 minutes before the ribs come off the grill. If you use it too early it is more likely to burn.


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