Let's do brunch: What to drink

A weekend brunch often is called "champagne brunch" for a couple of reasons.

For one, brunches are festive and indulgent, and no wine is more festive and indulgent than one with bubbles.

Also, brunch, being two meals in one lavish spread, traditionally is composed of so many diverse dishes that no other wine is as compatible for the meal's range of flavors, textures and weights.

Nevertheless, there's a place at brunch for other wines. Recently, the prolific food-writing team of Matt Lee and Ted Lee divided typical brunch dishes into 10 logical groups and recommended wines for each.

Almost invariably, their pairings, published in the April issue of Martha Stewart Living and at the Web site www.marthastewart.com, make perfect sense.

Rarely, however, do I see at local restaurants that serve brunch the specific wines the Lees suggest.

Therefore, here are their suggestions, along with my own recommendations based on what I see on local wine lists at typical brunch restaurants.

Croissants, muffins, coffee cake

The Lees: Champagne, specifically Moet & Chandon White Star for its elegance and biscuity notes.

Me: You can find the Moet & Chandon White Star at Slocum House in Fair Oaks for $70 and California Cafe in Sacramento for $68, but if the occasion isn't meant to be quite that ritzy, consider the Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut ($42 at Chanterelle at the Sterling Hotel in Sacramento, $30 at Tower Cafe), the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma County Brut ($16 for a split at the Radisson Hotel's Basil's by the Lake in Sacramento) or the Argyle 2002 Willamette Valley Brut ($42 at Hawks Restaurant in Granite Bay).

When lots of bacon is on the table

The Lees: A gently oaky chardonnay for its butterscotch and vanilla, which play off the salt and smoke of bacon, specifically the Childress Vineyards 2005 North Carolina Barrel Select Chardonnay.

Me: North Carolina wines hardly ever make it out to California, but for something stylistically similar, consider the R.H. Phillips 2005 Dunnigan Hills Toasted Head Chardonnay ($31 at California Cafe, $36 at the Pilothouse Restaurant aboard the Delta King in Old Sacramento, $40 at Basil's by the Lake), the Lava Cap 2006 El Dorado Chardonnay ($30 at Tower Cafe), or the Ferrari Carano 2005 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($50 at Slocum House).

Steak and eggs

The Lees: Easy-drinking and comforting merlot, specifically the Gundlach-Bundschu 2004 Rhinefarm Vineyard Merlot.

Me: That would work for me, but I don't often see the Gundlach-Bundschu hereabouts. On the other hand, one of California's early merlot specialists, Clos du Bois, is virtually everywhere – $33 for the 2004 at Chanterelle, $38 at Basil's by the Lake, $33 at Slocum House.

Southern-style ham steak with red-eye gravy

The Lees: White Rioja for the "sweet-tart playfulness" of the grape viura, specifically the Marqués de Cáceres 2006 Rioja Blanco.

Me: In California, we have to look more toward New Zealand for this combo of fruit and zest in a white wine, in particular sauvignon blancs from Monkey Bay ($23 at Slocum House), Chasing Venus ($38.50 at the Pilothouse) or Nobilo ($30 at Basil's by the Lake).

Classic English fry-up

The Lees: The richness and variety of a fry-up – bacon, kidneys, potatoes, roasted tomatoes – calls for a Rhone-style blend from Australia, specifically the Rosemount Estate 2003 McLaren Vale GSM.

Me: Rhone-style blends, whether from Australia, California or even the Rhone Valley, aren't exactly taking over local wine lists, just as a classic English fry-up won't often be found here. But for a fry-up or any similarly robust scramble, consider a jammy and spicy yet refreshing red, like the Michael-David 2005 Lodi 7 Deadly Zins Zinfandel ($37 at California Cafe), the Terre Rouge 2003 Amador Les Côtes de L'Quest Syrah ($33 at Hawks) or the Gnarly Head 2005 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel ($25 at Roxy Restaurant and Bar in Sacramento).

Huevos rancheros or chilaquiles

About the writer:

• Call Bee wine columnist Mike Dunne, (916) 321-1143. Read his blog at www.sacbee.com/ appetizers. Back columns: www.sacbee.com/dunne.