Appetizers

Looking to warm up with some killer mac ’n’ cheese? Give OneSpeed’s a spin

OneSpeed restaurant at 4818 Folsom Blvd., in Sacramento, Wednesday, December 30, 2009.
OneSpeed restaurant at 4818 Folsom Blvd., in Sacramento, Wednesday, December 30, 2009. Sacramento Bee file

As the weather moves from cool to cooler, our cravings turn from chilled gazpacho to hot comfort foods such as mac ’n’ cheese. Our go-to is at OneSpeed, where executive chef Steve Linares consults his alchemist’s handbook for a rendition he originally concocted during his years at a New York restaurant “where we sold probably 200 a day. It got into the New York Times.”

The made-to-order showpiece involves Mornay sauce, elbow macaroni and “a bunch of different cheeses, depending on what we have,” Linares said. Be smart and add a hit of crisp house-made pancetta. The mixture is topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and mozzarella, and baked in a cast-iron skillet until the cheeses bubble and the breadcrumbs brown.

$9 at lunch and dinner, 4818 Folsom Blvd., 916-706-1748, www.onespeedpizza.com

Allen Pierleoni

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