The michelada, a beer-tomato juice cocktail generally crisper, lighter and less filled with bacon than its vodka cousin the Bloody Mary, reaches winning form at Roseville’s Nixtaco taqueria. In a glass whose rim is lined with Tajin lime-chili seasoning, chef Patricio Wise mixes Clamato with a tart or malty beer (usually Mraz Gose, out of El Dorado County) along with soy and Worcestershire sauces and many spices. The over-ice drink’s umami, salt and heat elements spark well off such noteworthy Nixtaco Sunday-brunch offerings as the chilaquiles and Scotch-egg-like “Nixtaco poached egg.” But you can order it at any time.
$7, 1805 Cirby Way, Suite 12. www.nixta.co, 916-771-4165
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