Appetizers

Panettone season comes to Sacramento

Panettone is showing up on shelfs again this season
Panettone is showing up on shelfs again this season

It’s panettone time once again. The sweet and airy bread studded with various fruits (cherries, raisins, bits of glazed glazed orange and lemon, for instance) is a seasonal treat (originally from Milan) is a centuries-old Italian tradition and time-consumptive to make. It’s shaped pretty much like a chef’s toque.

Each year, the holiday season finds 19 varieties of imported panettones stacked on shelves at Cori Bros. Market, priced from $7.29 for the mini, and $27 to $35 for the 2.2-pound (kilo) versions.

The novelty flavor is the “panettone rosa,” a Sultana (read: big) raisin bread flavored with honey, Madagascar vanilla-laced pastry cream, and rose syrup made from old-garden rose petals and lemon juice. Our tasters found it satisfyingly lush, not overly sweet, with balanced flavors and textures and a wonderful aroma. Give it four stars.

So, what do you do if you want a panettone that feeds 100 guests? Why, fork over $218 for the traditionally flavored (raisins and candied fruit) 22-pound edition. Seriously.

Corti Bros. Market, 5810 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento; 916-736-3814, www.cortibrothers.com.

Allen Pierleoni: 916-321-1128, @apierleonisacbe

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