There are lots of ways to ruin the integrity of fried shrimp. Coat them in spongy batter, for instance, or overcook them into chunks of rubber. Or crowd the plate with pointless french fries, rice pilaf or coleslaw.
When we’re in the mood, we just want a plate of a dozen perfectly cooked shrimp with dill-flecked tartar sauce and a couple of lemon wedges, without distractions. Which is just what we found at Fins Market & Grill, and it was hard to stop at just 12.
The plump shrimp are peeled and deveined, lightly rolled in seasoned Italian breadcrumbs and quickly deep-fried in canola oil. The plate lands on the table with the sweet and tender crustaceans wearing light jackets with just the right crunch. Simple and to the point.
$16 for a dozen at 2610 Fair Oaks Blvd., Sacramento, (916) 488-5200, and 8680 Sierra College Blvd., Roseville (916) 783-5200, www.finsmarket.com. The original Madison Avenue store in Fair Oaks closed in February 2015.