You don’t know spumoni until you've tasted this one served at a Sacramento scoop shop

Icy gelato in February? You bet, and every other month of the year too, as long as it’s Italian spumoni at Capital Confections. It’s the only scoop shop in Sacramento that serves gelatos from the award-winning The Latest Scoop in Berkeley.

Teresa and chocolatier-husband Craig Higgins have hand-crafted and sold “hundreds” of types of confections at their store for nearly 20 years, but it’s the spumoni that gets our attention every time. The serious treat is a melange of pistachio, hazelnut and cherry gelatos studded with pistachio nuts, chocolate chips and real Bing cherries – the best we’ve tasted. The high-butterfat gelato (one of 20 flavors that rotate through their freezer case, eight at a time) is super-compressed to eliminate air, which makes it dense and creamy.

$4 to $17 in five cup sizes (4 ounces to a quart), or $85 for a 1.5-gallon bucket at Capital Confections, 916-973-0249, in Town & Country Village, Marconi and Fulton avenues, Sacramento

Allen Pierleoni