Appetizers

This local roadhouse is not afraid to flavor its steak

Grilled ribeye with marble potatoes, pearl onions, radish, watercress, herb butter, red wine jus at Meadowlands.
Grilled ribeye with marble potatoes, pearl onions, radish, watercress, herb butter, red wine jus at Meadowlands. mcrisostomo@sacbee.com

Walking into Meadowlands, the new restaurant housed in the 19th-century roadhouse long known as the Old Sloughhouse Inn, makes one immediately crave meat – just as the miners who once stopped here must have.

It’s hard to imagine roadhouse kitchens in the salt-pork era offering preparations as sophisticated as those involved in Meadowlands’ $29 grilled ribeye, however. Red wine jus and herbed butter lend this steak tremendous flavor and seal in its juices.

I usually prefer steaks grilled at home to those ordered out, since restaurant seasoning tends toward the timid. This is a tasty exception.

$29, 12700 Meiss Road, just off Jackson Road (Highway 16), Sloughhouse, 916-525-1575, www.meadowlands.restaurant

Carla Meyer

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