Eye openers: Mother rolls out weekend brunch menu

Mother, the hot new restaurant on K Street next to the Crest Theatre, rolled out its brunch menu last weekend for the first time.

Among other things, the restaurant is featuring three kinds of Dutch babies, a pancake/souffle kind of dish delivered to the table in a piping hot cast-iron pan. I haven’t seen a Dutch baby served at other local restaurants in recent years. But after tasting both a sweet and savory version at Mother, you’d have to think they are going to catch on elsewhere. Mother is on the verge of making these a quintessential brunch staple.

You’ve probably already noticed that brunch itself is already a big deal in Sacramento. With Mother throwing its hat into the ring, the quality has gotten even better, and the competition is intense.

Scores of restaurants are offering brunch and doing it well, including Hook & Ladder, Lowbrau, Capital Garage, The Porch, Red Rabbit, Orphan, and, of course, the eatery where the line is always long come Sunday a.m., Tower Cafe. On the other hand, a place where there is almost never a line but that serves a very good brunch is Bistro Michel. Throw in breakfast-y stalwarts like Harry’s Cafe, Cafe Bernardo, Crepeville and Chargin’s and Les Baux and we’ve got plenty of options.

At this point, I would say the head of the pack is Bacon & Butter, which is almost always packed on Sundays because owner/chef Billy Zoellin’s food is very Sacramento and very good. I would say the same for Magpie, and now, in a new and exciting way, Mother, which just happens to not serve meat.

Mother is cooking brunch on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m to 2 p.m.

“We’ve always planned to open up for brunches on the weekends,” co-owner/chef Michael Thiemann said. “I think this place will be really fun on weekend days. Sacramento loves brunch. ... I think the menu is fun and approachable, executed with the same high standards as lunch and dinner. We have a few vegan items and are working on incorporating more, and of course, we will accommodate any request” – except a side of bacon!”

Watch for my full review of Mother on April 27.

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