Get comfy with creamy polenta and meatballs

Polenta with pork-beef meatballs is a top dish at Adamo’s.
Polenta with pork-beef meatballs is a top dish at Adamo’s.

Adamo’s Kitchen in midtown has steadily grown its customer base since opening in July 2014, demonstrating the power of word-of-mouth.

It’s been on our list of lunchtime go-to’s for awhile. The hip-looking space has a straightforward bar that pours interesting wines (such as Butterfield Station chardonnay) and taps barrels of craft brews, including the seasonal Unita Punk’n Harvest Ale. Beyond that is a menu of unexpected dishes, such as heartily seasoned chicken wings cooked “sous vide,” then slightly charred on the grill ($7).

As good as the wings are, our “destination dish” is creamy polenta and meatballs, topped with marinara, Parmesan cheese and basil ($10). The substantial pork-beef meatballs are tender and moist, an ideal balance of flavor and texture. They’re the perfect match for the soft-firm polenta, moistened with tomato sauce and accented with little strips of fresh basil. The meal is homey and soothing, the goose-down comforter of comfort-food dishes.

Adamo’s is at 2107 P St., 916-440-9611,

Allen Pierleoni: 916-321-1128, @apierleonisacbe