Cafe Au Lait in Midtown closed last spring, replaced by Adamo’s in July after a months-long refurbish. It’s a hip-looking place serving wines and craft beers. One recent offering was Lost Abbey’s 10 Commandments “naturally flavored ale, brewed with honey, raisins and rosemary” (12 percent; 25 ounces for $14).
We’ve tasted a few items on the menu of unexpected dishes, including marvelous pork-beef meatballs in creamy polenta with tomato sauce ($8) and over-the-top (in a good way) “sucio” (dirty) fries topped with bacon, cheddar cheese, poblano sauce, sour cream, and sauteed peppers and onions ($8). Next stop will be the fried chicken and Brussels waffle with syrup and hot sauce ($12).
Meanwhile, our favorite dish is chef Tony DiMichele’s chicken wings (he’s formerly of Grange). Forget about deep-fried, these wings are cooked “sous vide.” They’re sealed in a plastic bag with a marinade of fish sauce, garlic, cilantro stems and black pepper and simmered for three hours in a water bath with a constant “target temperature” of 167 degrees. They’re cooled, then grilled (slightly charred) to order and served with a Vietnamese-style sauce of rice vinegar, garlic, chile flakes and sugar ($6).
Beef, pork, poultry or fish prepared sous vide results in meat that is evenly cooked, tender and moist. The U.S. Restaurant Association has named sous vide among the top cooking techniques of the year, and predicts its spread in 2015.
Adamo’s is at 2107 P St.; (916) 440-9611, www.adamoskitchen.com.
Call The Bee’s Allen Pierleoni, (916) 321-1128. Follow him on Twitter @apierleonisacbe.