A California State Fair staple, the corn dog continues a decades-long legacy
For many, the true essence of the California State Fair lies in its culinary delights, particularly one iconic deep-fried delicacy: the corn dog.
And for over the past five decades, the name synonymous with this beloved treat has been Milo Franks.
The fairgrounds at Cal Expo hum with anticipation of the indulgent feast to come, and the bubbling from the deep fryers at the Milo Franks stand are essential to that excitement. The longest-running presence among vendors or acts at the California State Fair, Milo’s has served thousands upon thousands of its renowned jumbo corn dogs to generations of eager fairgoers over more than half a century.
Last year, Milo’s son, Travis Franks, stepped up to lead the family business after his father’s death, carrying on a tradition that is common among many State Fair businesses. Travis noted that a significant number of these operations are family-run, passed down through generations, fostering a unique sense of community and heritage.
“Corn dogs are a big staple out here and especially our corn dogs,” Franks said. “With my dad here at Cal Expo for 55 years, we’ve really branded our name here and we have a big following coming back to us.”
Sacramento resident Amanda Reese described her first bite into the classic corn dog as nostalgic, familiar with the Milo Franks name.
“Besides the mall, I feel like it’s one of the few places where you can get corn dogs,” she said. “So why not take advantage of it?”
Milo Franks’ presence at the State Fair is ubiquitous with its four locations at Cal Expo, including a two-story stand nestled in the food court. According to Travis Franks, this is the sole operational two-story food stand in the United States, distinguishing it from the other two-story stand, in Florida, which he said serves a purely cosmetic purpose.
This stand in particular acts as the supplier for the smaller stands across the fair. From this central hub, fresh batches of corn dog batter and hot dogs are prepped before runners take the food to the other three locations.
On a busy day, this 1,600 square foot vendor bustles with activity, with a team of eight skilled cooks working tirelessly. The head cook expertly manages the fryers, ensuring each corn dog is cooked to golden perfection. Meanwhile, other cooks operate the upstairs pizza oven. Franks notes that on such busy days, they can sell an astounding 4,000 corn dogs, in addition to other popular offerings like pizza and giant curly fries.
“We try to keep it as simple as possible because on those days where we’re putting out thousands of dogs, you don’t need a bunch of different items to make more confusion here,” he said.
While other fair stands have some unique toppings for their corn dogs, Franks sticks to the classic corn dog. Franks said toppings are the customer’s choice, but his choice is the simple condiment of ketchup.
In five minutes, 48 golden corn dogs can be pulled from the four fryers.
“I recommend that people get the corn to share with two people because it’s huge,” Kelly Figueroa said.
Returning to the fair with her family, Sacramento native Figueroa looked for something new. The colorful stand caught her eye, but the half-pound of hot dog encased in a pound of batter sealed the deal for her.
Corn dog conquest
Beyond the individual indulgence, the corn dog also takes center stage in the fair’s corn dog eating competition, the final round of which was set for 6 p.m. Saturday. This year marks the 10th anniversary of the annual contest, a spectacle where competitors attempt to devour more than 30 corn dogs in eight minutes.
Franks and his dedicated team play a crucial role in this event, preparing up to 300 corn dogs on the day of the competition, often just an hour beforehand, ensuring freshness and quality for the intense challenge.
For Madeline Canty, the corn dog competition was a must-do. Her friends and family, up front in the audience, cheered and shook a sign with her face and the words, “Glizzy Goddess.”
“Just really like corn dogs,” she said. “It’s kind of lifelong.”
During the start of the qualifying rounds, Sacramento resident Eric Lor was buzzing with excitement. His strategy: remove the stick, dunk the corn dog in water and swallow.
This was the 19-year-old’s first corn dog eating competition and he was ready. Before Friday, he practiced and studied videos of previous year’s champions, especially Molly Schuyler.
“We’re coming for you Molly,” Lor said jokingly, also standing next to friend and fellow competitor, Daisy Laguna.
Schuyler was the reigning champion of the contest before her friend, Dan Kennedy, won last year’s competition, consuming 35.75 corn dogs.
“Water is a tool and don’t overstuff your mouth,” Schuyler said, giving advice for first time competitors. “Choking is a real thing, and amateurs are the first ones to choke in a contest over a professional, so don’t overstuff.”
Lor’s technique ultimately worked in his favor — landing him sixth place and securing a spot in Saturday’s finals.