Food & Drink

Is this spicy red soup Sacramento’s top ramen?

“Red” pork broth-based ramen at Ryujin Ramen House.
“Red” pork broth-based ramen at Ryujin Ramen House.

The notion of hot soup on a frigid day comes around every year at this time. For us, though, the thought of Ryujin Ramen House’s red (spicy) tonkotsu ramen isn’t limited to any one season, but is a year-round yearning. It just happens that it’s cold outside right now, reason enough to grab a seat inside the Japanese restaurant.

As for the soup: The hefty bowl is filled to the brim with fragrant pork-based broth, “koshi” (al dente) noodles, slices of tender pork, steamed cabbage, black mushroom, red ginger, green onion, sesame seeds and boiled egg that’s been marinated in sake.

We peeked in the kitchen one night to watch as the cook stirred a huge stock pot of steaming water filled with meaty pork bones, vegetables and seasonings, which would become the restaurant’s signature broth. That’s what we mean by “authentic” cooking. Let’s have another bowl.

$9 at Ryujin, 1831 S St., Sacramento, 916-341-0488,

Allen Pierleoni