Recipes

For terrific Thanksgiving sides, return to the roots

St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Parsnip chips are a surprising take on root vegetables. Try them for a snack before the big dinner.
Parsnip chips are a surprising take on root vegetables. Try them for a snack before the big dinner. St. Louis Post-Dispatch

It’s easy to root for root vegetables.

They are the underdogs of the culinary world, the downtrodden and forgotten in a world of shining stars. They will never be fashionable, never hip. They will not achieve the fleeting popularity of quinoa, farro, pork bellies or even kale.

They are, and will always be, just root vegetables.

They do not know the joy of growing in the sunshine; they burrow instead into the dirt. They can be a little hard to cook and a little hard to eat. And if truth be told, they tend to be kind of ugly.

And yet they taste so, so good.

My favorite root vegetable is probably the homeliest of the lot. Celeriac is the root of a plant in the celery family; it is often called celery root. It tastes like celery, too, only a milder version and smoother. It’s sort of like Celery Lite.

Which happens to make it perfect for cream of celeriac soup. Celery is a little too assertive for soup, though plenty of people use it, but celeriac makes a soup that sparkles with sophistication.

The secret is to begin with a cream base. The secret to many things is to begin with a cream base. Frankly, if you began with a cream base, you could make gravel taste good.

To make a cream base, sauté onions and shallots in oil; then add white wine and then stock, and reduce each one until it is nearly dry. Once those flavors have concentrated, only then do you add the cream. And it is magnificent.

To make the soup, just simmer celeriac in the cream base and a little more stock until it is tender. Then purée.

For my next root vegetable, I chose parsnips – because I can use them to make parsnip chips. Actually, you can use many root vegetables to make chips (after all, potatoes are also root vegetables), but I like parsnips because of their inherent sweetness.

It’s not an overpowering sweetness, it’s just enough to be a foil to the root’s earthiness.

Parsnips are also easy to slice thin, which helps to make delicately crispy chips. You can use a mandoline if you have one, but if you don’t you can find just as much success with an ordinary vegetable peeler.

Parsnip chips are simple to make and delicious, but perhaps their greatest benefit comes when you serve them to others. Your guests will look at you in amazement and say, “What are these? They’re wonderful.”

“Oh,” you can say. “Just some root vegetable.”

Turnips are usually thought of as that thing you forget to add to soups, but they have many wonderful uses of their own. I used them to make braised turnips with thyme.

This is a hearty dish, a vegetable stew with a spectacular twist. You simmer together turnips, rutabagas, onion, garlic and a carrot, plus thyme for flavor, salt for seasoning and a bit of flour to thicken the sauce.

So far, so good. A bit of parsley, a bit of pepper and you have a typical vegetable ragout – or at least typical for a ragout that uses root vegetables as its primary ingredients.

And then there’s that twist: You add Dijon mustard and cream. Not much of either, but just enough to change the flavor completely and lift the dish into the stratosphere.

Finally, I made a rutabaga purée with leeks, which at its heart is an improvement on mashed potatoes. It’s mashed potatoes with a lot more flavor.

You actually begin with a potato. But then you add rutabagas, with their intriguingly earthy taste, and leeks, with a subtle dose of onion. A single clove of garlic adds a hint of more flavor, and thyme contributes its fair share as well. Cream (or something less fattening) and butter finish the dish.

You may never look at a mashed potato again. When you’re eating something as sublime as rutabaga purée, it’s hard to believe that some people actually look down on root vegetables.

Marinated turnips with orange and pumpkin seeds

Serves 4

Baby turnips are ideal for this unusual dish; they are sweet and don’t need to be peeled. If you can’t find turnips with their greens, beet greens make a good substitute. It’s nice to have a mandoline for slicing the turnips.

Make ahead: The turnips need to sit in the dressing for 1 hour before serving.

Adapted from “Deep Run Roots: Stories and Recipes From My Corner of the South.”

For the dressing:

1/4 cup plain rice vinegar

2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce

2 dashes hot sauce

2 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon grated, peeled fresh ginger root

1 teaspoon minced or grated garlic

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions (white parts only)

Finely grated zest of 1 seedless orange, plus the juice of 2 seedless oranges

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

For the turnips:

Salt

1 1/2 pounds young/small turnips, preferably with greens attached (may substitute about 5 ounces other greens; see headnote)

1/2 cup orange segments (from 1 seedless orange; see note)

1/2 cup roasted, salted pumpkin seeds

For the dressing: Whisk together the vinegar, soy sauce, hot sauce, honey, ginger, garlic, salt, scallions, orange zest and juice in a mixing bowl. Gradually add the oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking until emulsified.

For the turnips: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Fill a mixing bowl with water and ice cubes.

Rinse the turnips thoroughly and detach the greens.

Add the greens to the pot; cook/blanch for about a minute, just until brightened in color, then use tongs to transfer them to the ice-water bath. Drain and coarsely chop.

Use a mandoline to cut the turnips into 1/8-inch rounds, adding them to the dressing as you work.

Add the greens to the bowl with the dressing and turnips; toss gently to coat. Let sit for 1 hour.

Transfer to a serving dish. Top with the orange segments and pumpkin seeds.

Note: To segment the oranges into supremes, slice off the bottom and the top of each piece of fruit. Stand the oranges on a cutting board with one of the cut sides down. Use a serrated knife to cut the peel and the pith away from the fruit, top to bottom. Then, holding the fruit in your hand, cut the segments away from the membrane. (The idea is to leave behind all of the membrane and white pith.)

Per serving: 320 calories, 8 g protein, 30 g carbohydrates, 22 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 700 mg sodium, 5 g dietary fiber, 17 g sugar

Cream of celeriac soup

Serves 8

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, diced

4 shallots, sliced

1 cup dry white wine

4 cups chicken stock, divided

3 cups heavy cream

1 large or 2 small celeriac roots

Salt and white pepper, to taste

Put oil in a large pot over medium-high heat and saute onion and shallots until clear, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add white wine and reduce until almost dry. Add 2 cups of the chicken stock and reduce until almost dry. Add the cream and simmer slowly until reduced by about 1/5, approximately 10 minutes. Strain and reserve the liquid.

Thoroughly peel the celeriac roots, cutting off any fibrous parts you can’t get with the peeler. Cut into 1 / 2-inch cubes. Add the cubes and the remaining 2 cups of chicken stock to the reserved cream base and simmer until the celeriac is tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

In batches, pour into a blender and puree. Taste for salt and add white pepper, if needed.

Per serving: 428 calories; 36 g fat; 21 g saturated fat; 105 mg cholesterol; 7 g protein; 16 g carbohydrate; 7 g sugar; 2 g fiber; 256 mg sodium; 98 mg calcium.

Parsnip chips

Yield: Varies

Parsnips

Vegetable oil

Salt

Peel parsnips. Use mandoline or vegetable peeler to cut thin slices of parsnip – lengthwise slices will create interesting shapes.

Pour oil at least 4 inches deep into a medium or large pot and heat to 350 to 375 degrees. Add a few parsnip slices, without crowding the pot. Fry until the edges (and a little more) are brown, about 1 minute. Immediately remove with a spider or slotted spoon and transfer to a plate with paper towels. Liberally sprinkle with salt, and continue in this manner until you have made the number of parsnip chips you want.

Rutabaga purée with leeks

Serves 4 to 6

1 small russet potato, peeled

2 pounds rutabagas, peeled

2 medium leeks, white parts only, chopped

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons or more cream, buttermilk, milk or reserved broth

2 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Black pepper

Chop the potato and then chop the rutabagas into pieces about half the size of the potato pieces. Put the potato, rutabagas, leeks and garlic in a large pot with just enough water to cover. Add the salt and simmer, partially covered, until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, reserving the liquid.

Mash the vegetables with a potato masher or fork for a rustic texture, or use a food mill for a dish that is more refined. Add the cream or reserved broth to thin the purée. Stir in the butter and thyme, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving (based on 6): 135 calories; 6 g fat; 4 g saturated fat; 16 mg cholesterol; 2 g protein; 20 g carbohydrate; 7 g sugar; 4 g fiber; 218 mg sodium; 81 mg calcium.

Braised turnips with thyme

Serves 4

Recipe from “The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone,” by Deborah Madison.

1 pound turnips, preferably small

2 rutabagas, peeled and diced into 1/2-inch cubes

1 to 2 tablespoons butter

1 onion, finely diced

3 small cloves garlic, halved

1 carrot, cut into medium dice

4 sprigs of thyme, or 1/4 teaspoon dried

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons flour

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Black pepper

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 cup cream or crème fraîche

Cut turnips into sixths and parboil in salted water for 1 minute. Parboil the rutabagas for 3 minutes.

Melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, rutabagas, carrot and thyme. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then add turnips. Season with the salt and sprinkle with the flour.

Cover and cook over low heat for 4 minutes, then stir in 1 1/2 cups water and the parsley. Simmer, covered, until the turnips are tender, about 15 minutes. Taste for salt (add more if the turnips taste bitter), season with pepper, add the mustard and cream, and simmer for 2 minutes more. Serve with buttered toast or make into little pot pies covered with pie crust or puff pastry.

Per serving: 205 calories; 9 g fat; 5 g saturated fat; 28 mg cholesterol; 4 g protein; 29 g carbohydrate; 15 g sugar; 7 g fiber; 279 mg sodium; 141 mg calcium.

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