Lamb leaps onto summer grills
Fast, fresh, local: California lamb has a lot of appeal, especially on the summer grill.
More home cooks are discovering what professional chefs have known for years: Lamb can be quick and easy. It’s also flavorful and adaptable to many cuisines.
“Summer is lamb season in California,” said Megan Wortman, executive director of the American Lamb Board. “Other parts of the country, they see their lamb in October. But California lamb is ready during grilling season.”
Often the most expensive dish on the restaurant menu, lamb can seem daunting, noted chef John Fink of The Whole Beast and The Yard at Mission Rock, both in San Francisco. But there’s a lot more to lamb than racks, shanks or whole legs.
“Lamb is a great meat,” said Fink, who has been working with lamb for 20 years. “It’s one of the most sustainable meats out there; (sheep) grow so quickly and they’re local. I like the fat on it and the flavor.”
As with most food trends, chefs are leading the way in developing demand for lamb, noted Wortman.
The biggest mistake most people make is they don’t season it. Mint, oregano, thyme, Italian parsley, rosemary, sugar, ginger, garlic; they all help lamb. Lamb really loves chilies; that’s my favorite.
chef John Fink
“We’re seeing increased usage of lamb in food service,” she said. “Chefs are getting really innovative beyond the basic rack. For home cooks, there’s still an intimidation factor. People look at an 8-pound leg and they don’t know what to do with it.”
Fink credits California geography for creating good-tasting lamb.
“We’re really blessed here,” he said. “We have completely different topography and terroir. The grass is so much better; that really affects the taste of the meat. When I’m cooking lamb, I know I’m starting with good meat.”
Local lamb helps dispel some of the myths that surround this meat, he added.
“I love to shatter preconceived notions about lamb,” Fink said. “People think that it tastes gamey or that it’s too fatty or it has an (off) flavor. When I started, I had to educate myself. I like the flavor of lamb, but a lot of Americans don’t.”
California lamb tastes much milder than imported lamb, he added. “We do such a good job with lamb here, people should support our local producers.”
While most of the world already loves lamb, Americans have been late to the table. The average U.S. consumer eats less than 1 pound of lamb per year; compare that to 26 pounds per year for the average Australian.
Interest in sustainable and locally produced food has prompted more interest in lamb, too.
“People may not have much experience with lamb or think it’s too hard to cook; that’s what keeps people from cooking more lamb at home,” Wortman said. “People are open to trying it, but not sure about it. They need more confidence; they don’t want to screw it up.”
That’s spurred the creation of such events as the Lamb Jam tour.
San Francisco will host the sixth annual Lamb Jam regional cookoff July 26. This competition challenges 16 chefs to create their own spins on lamb with global flavors inspired by Mediterranean, Asian, Latin and Middle Eastern cuisines. Other summer Lamb Jams are set for Seattle, Boston, Austin and Washington, D.C. The top chefs from each event will vie for the “Lamb Jam Master” title at the James Beard House in New York City in September.
“It’s become a really popular food fest,” Wortman said. “We bring together local producers with creative chefs. Fans keep coming back for more; we sell out every year.”
Patrons are invited to judge the chefs’ creativity for themselves at the San Francisco Lamb Jam. Part of the proceeds will support La Cocina, a program that helps low-income entrepreneurs get started in the food business.
“Local lamb lends itself to a variety of cooking methods, so our focus on globally inspired flavors for this year’s Lamb Jam helps bring this to life while also driving awareness about the benefits of American lamb,” Wortman said. “We’re excited to see what culinary creations these Bay Area chefs will create.”
Anyone can be a lamb master at home, particularly with chops, she added. The secret is adding spices or marinades to flavor and tenderize the meat.
“My go-to marinade – olive oil, Dijon mustard, lemon, garlic and fresh herbs – is easy and foolproof,” Wortman said. “I’m loving sirloin chops right now; they’re a very good value cut.”
Just salt alone will go a long way in tenderizing chops; sprinkle both sides before cooking while waiting for the grill to heat up.
Fink prefers a yogurt marinade laced with chilies, mint, cilantro or parsley. At The Whole Beast, he uses all of the lamb. At The Yard, his lamb gyros sandwich has become a home run with Giants fans.
“The belly is really the best part,” said Fink, but he also likes the neck, shoulder and shanks.
“The biggest mistake most people make is they don’t season it,” he added. “Mint, oregano, thyme, Italian parsley, rosemary, sugar, ginger, garlic; they all help lamb. Lamb really loves chilies; that’s my favorite.”
Instead of cooking individual rib chops, Fink prefers to grill the whole rack, then cut it up.
“The whole rack gives you a lot of options,” he said. “Marinade it in yogurt and spices overnight. Put it on the grill, char it, then slice it up into chops. They’re like lamb lollypops.”
Tired of plain old hamburgers? Ground lamb makes a juicy burger with a difference. It’s a perfect platform for global flavors.
“It’s 80-20, the perfect lean-to-fat ratio for burgers,” Wortman said. “Ground lamb is becoming increasingly popular. Five years ago, it was hard to find in most supermarkets.”
Butterflied leg of lamb also works well on the grill.
“It definitely feeds a crowd,” Wortman said. “You can use the same marinade as the chops. Add some mint or rosemary. It’s absolutely great barbecued. And the leftovers make great sandwiches, too.”
Debbie Arrington: 916-321-1075, @debarrington
Lamb Jam
- What: Cook-off featuring 16 Northern California chefs preparing Mediterranean-, Asian-, Latin- and Middle East-inspired lamb dishes. Attendees will taste the results and vote for People’s Choice winners.
- Where: The Golden Gate Club, 135 Fisher Loop, San Francisco
- When: 3-6 p.m. July 26
- Tickets: $60; order online; no tickets at door; no minors.
- Details: www.americanlamb.com
Lamb grilling tips
The American Lamb Board offers these tips for grilling lamb:
Choose your chops: Versatile in both flavor and price, lamb chops come in many forms. Classic rib chops are cut from the rack. Loin chops are similar to small T-bone steaks and come in perfect 4-ounce servings. Shoulder chops or leg chops (the leanest cut) can be sirloin or center sliced. They need only a few minutes on the grill.
Spice it up: Lamb pairs well with bold, globally inspired flavors. Chops should be marinated 2 to 24 hours before grilling.
Salt both sides: For flavorful lamb with no marinade, salt both sides of the chop 40 minutes before grilling. Salt acts as a type of brine, breaking down some of the muscle tissue that helps the meat absorb moisture.
Don’t overcook: For best results, grill lamb over medium heat. Use a meat thermometer; 145 degrees will be medium rare. A chop 1- to 11/4-inch thick needs 9 to 12 minutes total to reach medium rare. A butterflied leg needs 20 to 25 minutes per pound. Cubed lamb (for kabobs) needs 8 to 12 minutes. Lamb burgers should be grilled 6 to 7 minutes per side.
Let it rest: Cover lamb chops with foil and let them rest for 5 to 10 minutes while the internal temperature continues to rise and the juices set. Let a grilled leg rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving.
For more tips and recipes, visit AmericanLamb.com.
Grilled American lamb loin chops with six spices
Recipe courtesy American Lamb Council.
4 AmericanlLamb loin chops
For spice rub:
1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 1/2 teaspoons smoked salt
1 bay leaf
Bring chops to room temperature (at least 30 minutes out of the refrigerator) before grilling.
For spice rub: In a spice grinder (or coffee grinder), grind coriander, fennel, thyme, peppercorns, salt and bay leaf until fine. Sprinkle spice rub over lamb chops.
Preheat grill to medium-high. Grill chops for approximately 4 to 6 minutes per side. For medium-rare, remove lamb chops from heat when thermometer registers between 130 to 135 degrees. (or to desired doneness), being careful not to burn spice rub. Rest chops, lightly covered, for at least 10 minutes before serving.
Serves 4
Grilled American lamb sirloin kabobs with Meyer lemon and garlic
Recipe courtesy American Lamb Council.
3 cloves garlic, minced to a fine paste
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
11/2 teaspoons sea salt
11/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon red chili flakes
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds American lamb sirloin steaks/chops cut into 3/4-inch cubes (or use boneless leg or pre-cut kabob meat)
1 red onion, quartered and sliced
3 Meyer lemons, cut into 1/2-inch slices, seeds removed, halved
6 to 8 wooden skewers, soaked in water, or fresh rosemary stems stripped of leaves (leaf tuft at the end)
In a bowl, combine garlic, oil, salt, rosemary, chili flakes and pepper. Add lamb cubes; marinate for 30 minutes.
Preheat grill to medium-high. Thread lamb, onions and lemons onto skewers. Grill to medium-rare, approximately 2 to 4 minutes on each side.
Note: If rosemary stems are used as skewers, make sure to hang the tips off the grill so they do not burn.
Serves 4
Butterflied lamb leg with mint-pistachio pesto
Recipe courtesy American Lamb Council.
3 pounds butterflied American lamb leg
Salt and pepper, to taste
For mint-pistachio pesto:
1 cup shelled, toasted pistachios (toast in a pan or for 8 to 10 minutes in a 350-degree oven)
1 cup fresh mint (leaves only)
1/2 cup fresh Italian parsley (stems are OK)
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice (to taste)
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon sea salt (to taste)
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pinch red chili flakes
Lay lamb leg open on a cutting board. Trim off visible fat. Season lamb generously with salt and pepper; allow to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before grilling.
In a food processor, add pistachios, mint, parsley, oil, vinegar, lemon juice, lemon zest, salt, pepper and chili flakes; blend until somewhat chunky.
Preheat grill to medium-high. Grill the lamb leg to medium-rare (remove from heat when thermometer reads between 130 and 135 degrees). Rest meat, lightly covered, for at least 10 minutes before serving. Slice meat thinly across the grain. Serve with pesto, grilled vegetables and a salad.
Serves 6 to 8
American lamb burger with caramelized onion, fennel and lemon relish
Courtesy American Lamb Council
For relish:
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 red onion, cut into thick slices
1 fennel bulb, cut into 1/4-inch slices
Salt and pepper, as needed
1 teaspoon minced rosemary
Zest of 2 lemons (pith removed, the rest finely chopped)
1 teaspoon honey
1 pinch red chili flakes
For lamb burgers:
2 pounds ground American lamb
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 dinner rolls, or 4 large buns
Mayonnaise, as needed
Arugula leaves, as needed
Relish: Preheat grill to medium-high. Brush onion and fennel slices with oil; season generously with salt and pepper. Grill over medium-high heat until onion and fennel caramelize and soften, showing grill marks. Reduce heat; continue cooking onion and fennel until soft. Remove; cool then finely chop. In a bowl, add grilled onion and fennel, rosemary, lemon zest, lemon, honey and chili flakes. Season to taste.
Lamb burgers: Gently form the lamb into 8 burgers; make sure meat is not compressed. Season generously with salt and pepper; grill to desired doneness. Remove some of the bread from the rolls to make a better bread-to-burger ratio. Grill rolls briefly; cool. Spread both sides of rolls with mayonnaise, spoon on some of the onion relish, some arugula leaves and the cooked lamb burger. Serve.
Serves 8
Grilled rack of American lamb with Dijon-balsamic glaze
Recipe courtesy American Lamb Council.
1 rack of American lamb
For Dijon-balsamic glaze:
1/4 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Salt, to taste
For toasted bread crumb dip:
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
Salt, to taste
Bring the rack to room temperature (at least 30 minutes out of the refrigerator) before grilling. Trim some of the fat cap off the rack, leaving about 1/4 inch of fat on the rack.
Dijon-balsamic glaze: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, add wine, mustard, vinegar, honey, pepper and salt. Whisk to combine; bring to a boil. Lower heat and reduce by half. Cool slightly; brush liberally on the lamb rack. (If there is left over, brush on the rack as it cooks.)
Toasted bread crumb dip: In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add oil and bread crumbs. Stir, toasting until the bread crumbs brown. Season to taste with salt.
Preheat grill to medium-high. Grill the rack over medium-high heat, fat-side down, for about 15 minutes. Once browned, flip the rack over and move to a cooler part of the grill. Grill to medium-rare (remove from heat when thermometer registers between 130 and 135 degrees, or to desired doneness), about another 10 to 15 minutes. Allow rack to rest, lightly covered, for at least 10 minutes before slicing and serving.
Cut into 2-chop portions (double chops), or slice into 8 chops. Before serving, dip one side of each chop into the bread crumb mixture.
Serves 4
This story was originally published June 30, 2015 at 3:00 AM with the headline "Lamb leaps onto summer grills."