Tips and takes on Sacramento’s newest restaurants. And what about their takeout?

Some three months ago, we took a look at the short list of restaurants that had been bold enough to open in the early days of the pandemic.

With significant indoor dining restrictions still in place — and with restaurants that had been in the pre-opening stages when the shutdown hit still on the hook for rent — more new establishments have joined them, with the pace of openings seeming to increase.

These new spots encompass a world of different flavors, from pizza (twice) to Persian to Korean to Indian, as well as two establishments with different connections to Nashville, one of them the hotly anticipated first brick-and-mortar location of beloved hot-chicken food truck Nash & Proper, which opened mid-September to an enthusiastic reception.

Cecil Rhodes, co-owner with Jake Bombard of Nash & Proper, says the pair originally planned to open in April after winning the Sacramento Downtown Foundation’s Calling All Dreamers business competition. But with the new regulations related to COVID-19, he says, “we had to pivot. We wanted to open … but we thought it’d be easier to maneuver with [our] food trucks.”

Staffing as well as new service regulations posed challenges, not just for Rhodes but for other restaurateurs: Majka Pizzeria owners Alex Sherry and Chutharat Sae Tong, who are husband and wife, chose not to bring on any employees for reasons of safety in the pandemic, and Idean Farid of Maydoon, Midtown’s first Persian restaurant, said in an email, “it’s been difficult working with a limited staff.”

Despite the difficulties, all these restaurateurs are clearly feeding the public’s hunger.

“Our guests have been so excited and happy to welcome us to midtown,” says Farid, noting Maydoon serves “a good mix” of takeout and patio diners. Oak Park’s new pizzeria Slim & Husky’s has seen lines for its takeout window, Majka sells out regularly, and Rhodes — whose Nash & Proper is the most recent opening of the bunch— has also seen menus sell out despite, or perhaps because of, limited hours.

“Everybody has been coming out,” says Rhodes.

There’s no question restaurants, new or old, are hard-pressed these days. In closing, Rhodes offered some words of encouragement for all his fellow restaurateurs in these strange times:

“I know a lot of restaurants are having a lot of issues,” Rhodes said. “Stay positive and exhaust every avenue that you can with your business. You have to keep grinding as long as you can.”

Junoon Flavors of India

Opened over the summer in the East Sacramento space long occupied by Cielito Lindo, Junoon offers the neighborhood’s first Indian restaurant — and, perhaps as a consequence, has been busy with takeout customers since its inception. The “limited COVID menu” on the website excludes some dishes seen a bit less often on Sacramento menus (such as tava kebab, papri chaat, and railway curry) that I’ll be eager to try when dining restrictions lift. Takeout diners will still find a solid selection: a very mild, creamy, faintly tart tikka masala, earthier Jaipur lamb masala, saag paneer and a good range of vegetarian dishes, a number of biryanis and naan wraps at lunch. Speaking of naan, there are several kinds: keema naan (stuffed with lamb) had run out when I ordered, but the oye teri, stuffed with green chilis and paneer, was a rich alternative to the usual.

Address: 3672 J Street, Sacramento

916-942-9796; https://junoonflavorsofindia.com/

Majka Pizzeria & Bakery

Offering only window service, limited hours, and only 50 whole pizzas a day (ordering well ahead is a must, especially if you want to snag one of the miso-chocolate chunk cookies), this tiny, focused pizzeria from Alex Sherry and Chutharat Sae Tong changed its whole business plan to accommodate the pandemic. But despite the limitations, Sherry says, Majka has been enthusiastically received by local diners. There’s a solid core of regulars, and no wonder; the tangy naturally leavened crust and locally sourced, all-vegetarian toppings make for fantastic pies, distinct from any others in this pizza-rich town. Inventive, fresh salads add to the attractions, and don’t miss out on the lavish focaccia. There’s just one variety of pizza a day, which Sherry notes will shift to more autumnal flavors as the local harvest progresses: Look for sweet potatoes from Placerville’s Flying V Farms, as well as winter squash and leafy greens.

Address: 1704 15th Street, Sacramento

916-572-9316. https://majkabakes.com/

Maydoon Restaurant

Previously, the grid lacked a Persian restaurant, and Maydoon brings the flavors of Iran to midtown with stylish flair. Enjoying the soothing, upscale interior will have to wait until after pandemic restrictions ease, but there’s patio dining on busy 16th Street and efficient takeout with online ordering for the gently spiced lamb, chicken and beef dishes, fresh salads (don’t miss the tangy, creamy dressing, also available by the pint) and more. The joojeh soltani — grilled skewered chicken thighs — are a menu star, savory and juicy, and koobedeh (skewers of ground sirloin) are also great, as are the slow-cooked stews, such as fall-apart-tender lamb shank in a turmeric broth. Portions are big — a family meal, for $50, feeds a crowd — but if you’re looking for a quick lunch option, the Maydoon bowls topped with veggies and meat deliver a convenient, one-person taste of the cuisine and have become one of the restaurant’s most popular offerings, according to owner Idean Farid. Creamy saffron-pistachio ice cream makes a lovely dessert. When indoor dining restrictions ease, look for an expanded menu and happy hour options.

Address: 1501 16th Street, Sacramento

916-382-4309. http://maydoonrestaurant.com/

Nash & Proper

Beloved Nashville-style hot chicken sandwich food truck Nash & Proper opened its long-awaited first brick-and-mortar location, appropriately enough, on September 16 — 916 day, as owner Cecil Rhodes put it. The appropriately spaced lines were waiting to order hefty, gloriously messy sandwiches of crunchy, juicy fried chicken thighs, plus tenders, fried cauliflower and some new items at the storefront restaurant. The new items include quarter-bird meals, long-simmered collard greens rich with salt and pork, and creamy mac and cheese with a crisp crumb topping. For the chicken, pick your heat level, from “naked” to “cluckin’ hot” (for me, “hot” is just right, but the very heat intolerant should know the sandwiches have a spiced sauce even if ordered naked). Online ordering (already available for the food trucks) will be coming for the downtown location, but for now, get your kicks the old-fashioned way, by lining up — and go early.

Address: 1023 K Street, Sacramento

916-426-6712. https://www.nashandproper.com/

Slim & Husky’s Pizza Beeria

This Black-owned Oak Park outpost of a small Nashville-based pizza chain opened in August. Slim & Husky’s slings crisp-crusted, oblong pies in slim (individual) and husky sizes, with flavor combos named for old-school hip-hop and a menu rounded out by multiple flavors of cinnamon rolls and salads. Sound like a lot of concept? It is, but it pretty much works: easy-to-customize online ordering (including an app option) and a pickup window, as well as a patio, keep things COVID safe. And the family meal ($40 for four slim pizzas and six cinnamon rolls) is a great deal. Less of a bargain are is a lackluster, tiny $10 salad with a mass-produced dressing packet. I’d recommend sticking to the pizzas, which use a generous hand with veggie toppings if you’re concerned about your vitamin intake. The combos are freewheeling, such as the California Love, with spinach-basil pesto, artichokes and tomatoes; the P.R.E.A.M., with white sauce, pulled Italian sausage, pepperoni and red onion; or vegan Nothin’ but a V Thang. Cinnamon rolls are likewise inventive, though I preferred the classic to twists like the Cookie Monsta’s sprinkle of crumbs. N.B.: Online ordering goes through one website for the chain; double check to be sure you’re not accidentally ordering your pies in Tennessee.

Address: 3413 Broadway, Sacramento

916-744-7546; https://slimandhuskys.com/

Song Pa Korean Restaurant

A newer addition to the Rosemont area’s cluster of Korean restaurants, the currently takeout-only Song Pa is optimized for the constraints of the pandemic with streamlined online ordering and a sleek to-go packaging system that corrals the plethora of banchan (little dishes of kimchi, pickles, and more) in divided containers covered with clear plastic. Portions are generous, meaning popular dishes such as sweet-savory galbi (rich short ribs) and bulgogi (sliced beef) will vie for attention with other hits such as japchae (stir-fried clear noodles) and my favorite dish, a balanced spicy pork and kimchi stir-fry with tofu. As the weather cools, I’ll go back for the good selection of hearty soups.

Address: 3643 Bradshaw Road, Sacramento

916-942-9661; https://www.songpayukgaejang.com/

This story was originally published October 6, 2020 at 5:00 AM.