Restaurant News & Reviews

Shige Tokita, the ‘godfather’ of Sacramento’s sushi scene, has closed his only restaurant

Shige Sushi’s katsuo (bonito) nigiri is served.
Shige Sushi’s katsuo (bonito) nigiri is served. begel@sacbee.com

Sacramento sushi aficionados loved Shige Tokita for the way he quietly, thoughtfully stuck to the classics. It’s no wonder his eponymous restaurant’s closure flew under the radar as well.

Shige Sushi has closed down for good. A peek inside the Carmichael restaurant at 5938 Madison Ave. shows overhead lights stacked on top of chairs, buckets of paint on the sushi bar and ceiling tiles atop tables.

Google reviews indicate Tokita closed Shige Sushi in November. Yet with no active social media pages or business website, word trickled out slowly.

A notice in Shige Sushi’s window stated that the address had a new license from the California Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control. Records showed, the license had been transferred to Cameron Alexander Stewart, who plans to open a Japanese restaurant called Hito Yatai in its place. The phone number Stewart listed in registering Hito Yatai with Sacramento County had been disconnected as of Thursday.

Known as the “godfather” of Sacramento’s sushi scene, Tokita was classically trained in Japan before opening his original restaurant near Howe Avenue and Arden Way. He specialized in simply, cleanly slicing fresh fish, and ordering nigiri on wood blocks was a prerequisite to sitting at the seven-seat counter once Shige Sushi moved to its Carmichael strip mall.

Customers could find oversized, Americanized rolls at Shige Sushi, but Tokita was much more known for slices of amberjack or whelk clam over rice. A handwritten specials board behind the counter always had some interesting seafood to offer, such as red snapper nigiri or barbecued abalone.

Tokita taught Taka Watanabe, who went on to found Ju Hachi and Taka’s Sushi (now closed). Ray Yamamoto of Oto’s Marketplace learned from Tokita as well, as did Lou Valente between the chef’s stints at Lou’s Sushi and Southpaw Sushi.

What to look for: Shige Sushi was known for traditional nigiri, sashimi and other Japanese foods, with a strong specials menu of daily fish offerings.

Where: 5938 Madison Ave., Carmichael

Hours: Already closed.

What’s next: Shige Sushi will be replaced by another Japanese restaurant, this one called Hito Yatai. Shige Tokita won’t be involved; it’ll be owned by Cameron Stewart.

This story was originally published February 17, 2023 at 6:00 AM.

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Benjy Egel
The Sacramento Bee
Benjy Egel is a former reporter for The Sacramento Bee.
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