Sacramento’s co-op bought fruit from this farm for decades. Then it bought the farm

A wooden tub of Blue Heron Farm navel oranges recently greeted customers as they walked into the Sacramento Natural Foods Co-op. The community-owned midtown grocery store sells produce from dozens of local growers, but spotlights its own citrus above all.

After selling Blue Heron’s wares for decades, the Co-op bought the Capay Valley farm in 2022. It’s a remarkable investment for a grocery store, one built on land stewardship and trust.

John and Gretchen Ceteras founded Blue Heron in 1975, two years after the Co-op was established. The two enterprises sparked a partnership a few years later, with John handing out samples and running demonstrations in the Co-op’s early years.

Blue Heron employee Orlando Garcia was hired a decade ago, and became the farm manager after John died in 2018. In the years after the death, Garcia kept the farm running while Gretchen and son Noah shopped around for a potential buyer.

Neighboring farms passed on absorbing Blue Heron but Rick Kilby, then the Co-op’s produce manager, was interested. He took the matter to the Co-op’s board of directors, which voted to buy Blue Heron. Garcia would stay on to run the show, and Gretchen Ceteras would continue living on-site in her farmhouse.

It was cause for celebration, but the Co-op didn’t initially do much to advertise its new farm. Garcia’s holistic practices — pouring compost and fertilizer, erecting owl boxes to keep rodents away — continued as Co-op higher-ups decided whether they’d hold onto the property long-term or simply stabilize it over a couple of years until another buyer emerged, merchandising director Nova Wetherwax said. As of now, they plan to keep the investment at least until it breaks even.

Blue Heron comprises 12 acres, about half of which is farmland, in the northern Yolo County town of Rumsey. The limited growing space influenced the Co-op’s decision to move away from row crops upon buying the farm, planting trees in areas where tomatoes and summer squash used to grow.

Grapefruit, oranges and clementines now account for much of Blue Heron’s output, though a few newly-planted fig trees should bear fruit soon enough. Walnuts are shelled in an on-site “nuthouse” that also processes for a few other vendors (the shells line neighbor Full Belly Farm’s roads), and the Co-op plans to grow sugar pie and jack-o’-lantern pumpkins for fall harvest.

The Co-op exclusively sells organic produce, and other Capay farms such as Good Humus are identified by signs as well. But owning Blue Heron means produce manager Fred Avila can request Garcia hand-pick fruit on a given day, and arrange for the direct transport to shelves immediately after packaging. It’s the freshest arrangement a grocery store could have, and customers can tell, Garcia said.

“One of the (reasons) everyone likes the navel oranges is because we try to pick them and take them directly to the store, “Garcia said. “It’s not like big farmers ... it’s fresh. It’s not like the other oranges.”

What I’m Eating

In the capital region’s vast restaurant scene, I can think of only one Afghan-Mediterranean-American restaurant with Central European touches. There’s a lot going on at Brickland between those cuisines, weekend brunch and a semi-separate bar. But the upscale East Sacramento concept finds its groove in somewhat unexpected places and is eager for new customers. Kids eat free on Tuesdays, a free bottle of wine accompanies two entrees on Wednesdays and two drinks, two mains and a dessert run customers $85 on date night Thursdays.

Rahim Amiri immigrated from Afghanistan in 1980 and landed in Connecticut, where his family opened a restaurant that his sister continues to run. Amiri and his wife, Sheila, eventually relocated to Sacramento and opened Brickland in August 2022 where 33rd Street Bistro had been for the past 25 years, a move they claim prompted an initial boycott from the previous restaurant’s loyalists, though that’s waned over time.

The Amiris made a bit of a splash by hiring Karel Mulac, a Czech-born chef who helmed Mattone Ristorante in East Sacramento and the legendary Biba in midtown. Mulac’s Italian expertise shines in the spaghetti amatriciana ($25), infused throughout with flavor from its smoked pancetta and backlit by a hint of spice.

Brickland’s chalkboard specials are homey and traditional, including potato leek soup ($8/cup, $12/bowl), a grilled veal chop with tomato risotto ($35), and a pan-fried halibut ($35) that stood out on my visit. Thoughtfully plated with a spiced carrot purée base, steamed romanesco and a balsamic glaze ring surrounding the dish, the fish was nicely cooked and complemented by a lemon butter sauce.

Other sections of the menu highlight Afghan dishes, including the delicious dessert saffron phirni ($8). Crushed pistachios, slivered almonds and two blackberries spread over a silky custard awash with sweet, nutty flavor.

Brickland

Address: 3301 Folsom Blvd., Sacramento

Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 3:30-9:30 p.m. Saturdays, 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 3:30-8 p.m. Sundays; closed Mondays.

Phone: 916-603-8883

Website: bricklandbistro.com

Drinks: A full, separate bar through cave-like archways, plus a station for coffee drinks, teas and sodas with typical as well as Middle Eastern-inspired flavors. Customers 21 and over get a free bottle of house wine with the purchase of any two entrees on Wednesdays.

Vegetarian options: Lots of starters, a trio of salads, a couple of flatbreads and one or two entrees depending on the day’s specials.

Noise level: Quiet

Outdoor seating: Patio along Folsom Boulevard

Openings & Closings

▪ New American-Mediterranean fusion concept Field-N-Flame just opened at 1521 L St., formerly home to Seoul St. Midtown and De Vere’s Irish Pub. Dishes such as grilled halloumi, halibut crudo and housemade pappardelle in garlic cream sauce, meet at the downtown Sacramento space.

▪ Americana-themed restaurant and sports bar The Shop Midtown opened March 1 at 1720 J St. An opening menu includes chicken wings, Spam BLTs on sourdough and “Hot Rod” smash burgers with bacon, onion rings, pepper jack cheese, jalapeños and hot honey.

▪ After months of being “temporarily closed” with little communication from the owners, it’s time to call it: Bambi Vegan Tacos is shut for good. The plant-based midtown Sacramento restaurant’s space at 1725 I St. is listed for lease, and no mushroom al pastor or fried broccoli tacos have been served since December.