No fish? Sacramento’s Village of Om reimagines sushi with mushroom, carrot, tofu

The restaurateur behind Buddha Belly Burger, Andy Nguyen, has opened a sushi restaurant built entirely from vegetables, tofu and mushrooms.

Village of Om Plant Kitchen opened in December as Sacramento’s first fully vegan sushi restaurant offering rolls, nigiri and pan-Asian cuisine, just steps away from Buddha Belly at 1915 S St. in the Newton Booth neighborhood of midtown.

“We want customers to be able to experience different things that they haven’t experienced before,” Nguyen said. “We’re always trying to push that envelope of what we can do that’s plant-based.”

At any sushi restaurant, vegetarians are limited to very few items on the menu, usually a simple cucumber maki or the chef’s sole vegetarian roll. However, Nguyen said it’s more than just a lack of options.

“The problem with the avocado rolls and cucumber rolls is when you get them at regular restaurants, there’s cross-contamination,” Nguyen said. “They use the same cutting boards and all that.”

Plant-based dishes

Luckily a lack of animal protein does not correspond to a lack of flavor.

The Village Oyster mushroom (half order $15) comes out crisp and golden on a triangular plate, with each chunk of blue oyster mushroom tempura-battered and drizzled with a sweet gochujang-based sauce. The mushrooms were easy to bite through, but I did wish they were cut into smaller pieces for easier sharing.

For sushi, the Smokey Vale ($18) is a play on the classic Philadelphia roll, replacing smoked salmon with smoked carrot, and cream cheese with a convincingly dairy-free vegan version. The roll is topped with lemon, chipotle aioli and dill resulting in a refreshing roll that balances acidity with creaminess.

My favorite roll was the Oshi Salmon roll ($23.50) which subbed salmon with Oshi salmon. Oshi’s fillet is made from soy protein, fungi protein, and a blend of vegetable and algae oils, similar to tofu. The salmon substitute is fermented and infused with kelp and nori, creating a fishy umami and smooth texture similar to thin-cut fillet. The roll was dressed with spicy mayo, light soy sauce and microgreens.

The Korean bulgogi ($29) came out sizzling and fragrant on an iron skillet. Usually made with thinly sliced beef, this version had a mix of king trumpet and shiitake mushrooms.

“Different mushrooms have different textures,” Nguyen said. “With bulgogi, it has a little more of a bite, a little more like ripping and tearing.” Grilled until tender and drenched in a sticky, garlicky sauce, the mushrooms were sweet and spicy, with caramelized edges and a satisfying bite. Served with kimchi, daikon and rice, the plate is balanced and filling.

In addition to mushroom appetizers and plant-based sushi, Village of Om had a large selection of specialty cocktails inspired by the elements of water, fire, earth, void and air. The earth-themed Om Fashioned ($15) swaps plain sugar for star anise- and coriander-infused syrup. Wines are sourced from Lodi’s Michael David Winery and for those not drinking, teas and bubbly fruit drinks are available.

The restaurant’s interior mixes dim lighting and natural textures with wooden tables, baskets and Buddhist art lining the walls. Lo-fi jazz plays over the sound of passing trains, which can rumble the restaurant from time to time.

Ngyuen said he wants Village of Om to double as a gathering place for vegans, hosting painting nights and mushroom cultivation workshops with Spawn Shroom House.

Andy Nguyen’s Vegetarian permanently closed

With the opening of Village of Om comes the closing of Andy Nguyen’s Vegetarian.

Hung and Lien Nguyen owned Andy Nguyen’s Vegetarian, named after their son, since 1984 at 2007 Broadway. Originally a traditional Vietnamese restaurant, after a family trip to meet the Dalai Lama, the Curtis Park restaurant became fully vegetarian in 2004.

“We want to create our own identity over here and maybe one day, Andy Nguyen’s will be able to come back, but as of right now, that’s on a pause,” Nguyen said.

Nguyen said the main reason for the closure was the rising maintenance costs of the 70-year-old building.

“Andy’s was my mom’s restaurant. My mom’s a lot older now,” Nguyen said. “It sucks to see something go.”

With Village of Om, Nguyen is able to continue his family’s legacy of providing flavorful and imaginative plant-based food for Sacramento vegetarians.

Village of Om is open from 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m., Monday through Thursday; 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday.

This story was originally published July 7, 2025 at 5:00 AM.