Charlie Palmer flexes fame to make Lodi resort ‘culinary-forward’ destination
In the culinary world, Charlie Palmer is a household name. His empire of restaurants pepper the map from New York City to Las Vegas, Washington, D.C. to Napa — and now, Lodi.
Palmer and his business partner Christopher Hunsberger have launched a series of “culinary-forward” hospitality concepts called Appellation. Each is centered in a place with strong roots in wine and agricultural production. Lodi was the inaugural property, launching last summer.
Unlike the other Appellations, though, Lodi is not a new concept. Palmer is taking over operations of an existing and much esteemed hotel, Wine & Roses. The property is newly branded Appellation Lodi - Wine & Roses Resort & Spa, nodding to both old and new. Under Palmer’s management, the restaurant is now called Americana House.
Palmer is bringing his “Progressive American” cuisine, blending classic French technique with bold flavors and seasonal ingredients. In the hushed, understated dining room, diners can expect dishes such as chicken Cordon Bleu made with Point Reyes Toma cheese and Parisian ham served with pommes aligot, and a Liberty duck breast and leg confit with five-spice baby beets and persimmon jam.
While some major providers like Mary’s Chicken and Harris Ranch get name checked on the menu, Americans House establishes relationships with many smaller, local purveyors such as Ione’s PT Ranch and Honest Acre Farm, a three-acre farm in nearby Linden. Both practice regenerative farming techniques.
Palmer brings prestige and a fresh take on the resort’s culinary program, but in many ways Appellation is a continuation of what came before.
Russ and Kathryn Munson are Lodi royalty, having held an interest the in resort since 1985, when it was a small, 10-room bed-and-breakfast. They took full ownership in 1999 and continue to own it today, but have handed the reins to Palmer’s team to run operations.
“We’re not going to work forever. This was a great opportunity to move to another chapter,” Russ Munson said.
Munson considered working with major hotel brands like Hilton, but found their requirements too restrictive. That’s when he met Palmer.
“He came over at lunch, and I basically introduced him to the property. From there, we just continued to talk. It was a natural fit for us here for Lodi,” he said.
Palmer agrees.
“Appellation is very much a company that doesn’t have to do anything that doesn’t fit our mindset. Our focus is to do interesting, unique locations, and those are always in places that exude agriculture. Of course, wine is a huge part of it, but it’s not just wine,” he said. “It’s what’s growing, what makers are making in that area — which I think is what builds community. I think that Lodi is a perfect example of that.”
By the time of the partnership, the Munsons had developed the property for more than 25 years from a small bed-and-breakfast to a 66-room resort and spa with two restaurants, making it a popular destination for the region.
“I think being able to take what’s already been built by Russ and Catherine is really what we should be thinking about. We can be the stewards of it, but it has incredible bones. What we can add to that, I think, is just our approach, our mentality,” Palmer said.
It was their style of hospitality that drew Palmer’s attention, pairing high-end experiences with the low-key vibe that embodies the city.
“I’m all about the food, first and foremost. But it’s what complements that dining experience and the friendliness of what we can provide to a guest,” he said. “The one thing that I love to hear all the time is how friendly people are when they come here, how comfortable they feel, how well taken care of they are. That’s what really gets me excited, because then I know we’re doing the right thing.”
More than just a hotelier, Munson is also a seminal figure to the Lodi wine scene. As he expanded the bed-and-breakfast into a full-fledged resort, he also made a commitment to the Lodi Wine Commission, building a space for them for a tasting room on the property. Prior to that, the commission had a smaller space on the far end of town.
At the time, there were fewer than 10 wineries in Lodi. Today, there are more than 85. Many smaller producers can attribute their success to the tasting room, as it allows them to market their wines without having to bear the overhead of running their own.
Consequently, Americana House’s wine selection leans deep into Lodi, including Block 21 Winery, run by Evonne and Matt Shinn.
“Matt and I are both sixth generation farmers in Lodi. So our families have been here since they came to America, farming, and we have always loved wine,” Evonne Shinn said. “We’ve been winegrape growers, both our families, but no one made our own wine with our grapes. Matt studied wine making at Fresno State, and we’ve always wanted to open a winery. They’re serving our wine here at the restaurant now, so we’re super excited about that.”
As with PT Ranch and Honest Acre Farm, the Munsons had an existing relationship with Block 21 prior to the partnership — just another in the litany of community ties they’ve built in Lodi and the greater San Joaquin Valley.
A significant change to the resort is the bakery, Maison Lodi, in the space adjacent to the Lodi Wine Commission space that used to be Towne Corner Cafe. Working with Appellation, they brought in upgraded baking equipment. Then they brought in Chef Melissa Yanc from Healdsburg to train the pastry chef. Russ Munson is pleased with the results.
“The breads and the pastries that we have today are equivalent to anybody’s,” he said.
