Aiona launches with pan-Mediterranean menu anchored on the open kitchen’s grill
Today marks the opening of Aiona, a new Mediterranean concept on K Street, occupying the space of the former Esquire Grill.
Aiona is the new project from husband-wife team Deneb Williams and Elizabeth-Rose Mandalou, who also own and operate Allora in East Sacramento. Allora serves three-, four- and five-course prix-fixe menus of upscale, refined Italian cuisine.
Whereas Allora’s dining room is quiet, serene, almost monastic, Aiona aims to be big, bright and boisterous.
The space sports vaulted ceilings with wave-formation panels, a noise baffling device made attractive by designer Emily McCuiston. A Deco-inspired, Greek-themed mural graces a wall near the entrance.
The decor leans into ‘80s femininity, with tones of teal and dusty pink with gold finishes and curved motifs. Ample use of soft materials help with sound absorption in the vacuous space.
The anchor of the restaurant is the open kitchen, which features an open-fire grill.
Chef Williams is breaking out of his Italian cuisine roots to offer a broader, pan-Mediterranean palate with influences from Spain, Greece, West Asia and North Africa.
The menu features a smattering of mezze-style small plates, including cold carpaccio ($22) and hamachi crudo ($24); housemade pita, made in the fluffy, Greek style, accompanying hummus ($16) and an eggplant dip ($18); and a grilled lamb souvlaki ($20) on a bed of citrusy sumac labneh.
Fire-roasted entrees anchor the menu, with a gamut of proteins from whole branzino ($48) to a half chicken ($34) to a hefty bistecca ($120), each dressed up with accessories from various parts of the Mediterranean. There’s even a wood-roasted cauliflower ($32) for the vegetarians in the audience.
The bar puts playful twists on classic cocktails, offering things like a tahini old fashioned ($20), complementing the cocktail’s gentle sweetness with a nutty note.
Mandalou is a sommelier, so the wine list is carefully curated, and surprisingly approachable. If you’re struggling to decide, she’s eager to assist.
Aiona opens at 11:30 a.m. Monday for its inaugural lunch service. The restaurant is well positioned to become a new anchor in the downtown dining scene.
Aiona
Address: 1213 K St., downtown
Hours: Lunch service 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and happy hour 3-6 p.m. Monday-Friday; dinner service 5-9:30 p.m. Monday-Thursday and 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays.
Phone: 916-790-3473
Website: aionasacramento.com
Vegetarian options: A decent selection throughout the menu
Noise level: Loud but buffered
