Everest Pioneer and Former REI CEO Jim Whittaker Dies at 97, Family Confirms
Jim Whittaker, who in 1963 became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. He was 97.
But here’s what might surprise you: Before he was a mountaineering legend, Whittaker was REI’s first full-time employee — and he eventually ran the company.
His death was confirmed by his family, including his son Leif Whittaker, who shared a statement with NPR.
“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him,” Leif wrote. “His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”
The Summit That Made Jim Whittaker a Celebrity
Whittaker grew up in Seattle and found a love for climbing in the 1940s when he and his identical twin brother, Lou Whittaker, were members of the Boy Scouts.
At just 16 years old, the two brothers summited Mount Olympus, the 7,965-foot highest peak in Washington’s Olympic Mountains, together.
Whittaker went on to climb Mount Everest in 1963 without his brother, who skipped the expedition to open a sporting goods store in Tacoma.
Instead, Whittaker climbed the summit alongside Nawang Gombu. It came 10 years after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first to reach the top.
The achievement made Whittaker an instant celebrity in the United States and helped spark American interest in mountaineering and fueled the growth of the outdoor industry in the U.S.
Jim Whittaker’s Rise to the Top of REI
When he wasn’t climbing mountains, Whittaker was climbing career ladders.
REI co-founder Lloyd Anderson hired Whittaker in 1955, making him the company’s first full-time employee.
He went on to serve as president and CEO from 1971 to 1979. During his tenure, membership grew from nearly 250,000 to more than 900,000. REI’s popularity surged after his Everest climb.
But his influence extended well beyond retail.
Whittaker’s congressional testimony and advocacy helped establish North Cascades National Park and Pasayten Wilderness in Washington, as well as Redwood National Park in California.
“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice — and his leadership — to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them,” his son’s statement read.
Jim Whittaker’s Philosophy on Climbing and Life
Whittaker’s accomplishments stretched far beyond that first Everest summit.
He climbed K2, the world’s second-tallest peak, and scaled Mount Rainier more than 100 times. In 1981, he led 10 handicapped climbers up Mount Rainier’s 14,410 feet — and called it one of his proudest moments.
Nearly a decade later, he led the Mount Everest International Peace Climb, uniting climbers from the U.S., Soviet Union and China.
He cautioned that even modest mountains’ weather “can turn a good climber into a beginner” in hours.
“You’re in nature, participating in God’s creation … it’s such a high, such a spiritual thing,” Whittaker said in a 1981 interview, per PBS. “I think it’s good to participate in that and to face life. When you live on the edge, you can see a little farther.”
He was also against the idea of requiring climbers to wear electronic locators.
“If you take all of the risk out of life, you lose a lot. You’re removing a personal liberty from somebody who wants to go and explore without having a safety net,” he told the Associated Press in 2007.
Whittaker is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts; sons Bob, Joss and Leif Whittaker; three grandchildren; and one great-grandchild.
This article was created by content specialists using various tools, including AI.
