The Plant Lady: Here are tips to grow the best African violets, our new ‘it’ plant

No, African violets are not just for your grandma. With the trend in houseplants going strong, I believe African violets are a step away from being the new “it” plant. Easy to grow, nonstop blooms, compact size and new varieties with crazy colors means now is the time to start your collection. Here are some guidelines for success.

Light

African violets can grow in low light, but this will result in little to no blooms and stretched-out plants. They prefer indirect, bright light. I find that a south or east window is ideal. During the summer months, it is best to move them a few feet away from the window or lightly shade on the south side to prevent leaf scorch. In a previous house, I had my collection right up against a 30-foot bank of windows facing south. They were in constant bloom. During the summer some leaves would burn, but I considered this an easy tradeoff for the abundant blooms.

Soil

Commercial African violet mixes are comprised primarily of peat moss with some perlite. This mix will work, but I prefer to grow mine in a more succulent-type mixture (soil with sand and pumice). If you tend to overwater your plants, be cautious of a high-peat soil. In any soil used, the key to having African violets happy is water content. Only water when the soil is starting to dry out. Overwatering can lead to crown rot – one of the leading causes of African violet death.

Watering

In general, once-a-week watering is sufficient. However, always go off the moisture level in the soil — aim for it to be neither sopping wet nor too dry. Always use room-temperature water and avoid getting the leaves wet.

Some people find it easier to water their African violets with a wick method. When transplanting, place a piece of acrylic yarn or rayon cord through a bottom hole of the pot. The wick should be long enough to reach the top of the pot and should be submerged several inches into a water reservoir. Place only the wick in the container of water. The water will be drawn up as needed. Special African violet pots are sold which make this easy to do.

Dividing/Transplanting

As your violet ages it may develop suckers. If allowed to grow, these suckers will develop into full-size plants. This results in crowded plants — with the mother plant receiving less nutrients. If the goal is to have a uniform rosette, then it is best to divide and remove these plantlets when they are young.

A stretched out “neck” is another common ailment of violets. As they age, the lower leaves will die off and the stem will elongate. The weight of the crown can be too much and sometimes the stem can snap. To prevent this it is ideal to transplant your violets every year — or at least every other year. When transplanting, shave a small portion off the bottom of the rootball. The violet can then be planted in the same pot, or if need be, a slightly wider pot. Your violet will now be at the correct stem height. For those plants with a long neck, it is possible to cut off the roots and start the plant as a cutting. There is a lot of risk in this though, so it is best to mitigate the issue early on.

Propagation

▪ Besides dividing the suckers, the primary way African violets are propagated is by leaf cuttings.

▪ For leaf cuttings, use a young fully developed leaf (located towards the center of the plant).

▪ Snip the leaf off at the base of the petiole (stem of leaf).

▪ Place the leaf or leaves in a small pot of wetted perlite or African violet soil mix. The key is to make sure the junction of the leaf petiole and blade is buried under the perlite. This is where the new plant will grow.

▪ No hormone is necessary since a young leaf is being used.

▪ Place in a bright — but shady — location inside.

▪ Place in a plastic container or ZipLock bag. Do not let moisture in container get so high that condensation is running down the sides.

Diseases/Pests

African violets are quite pest- and disease-free. Crown rot, as mentioned, is a primary killer. Usually, this is caused by soil staying too wet. If leaves start wilting and the plant becomes limp, ease off the watering and give the plant time to recover. Only a limited amount of water is most likely needed, as the plant is not actively growing.

Besides crown rot, the other primary issue of African violets are mealybugs. Mealybugs are phloem suckers — meaning they pierce into the sugar transport part of the plant (the phloem) and pull out sugars. This can result in stunting and death of the plant if outbreaks are large. The mealybugs like to congregate in the center of the crown, along the stem and undersides of the leaves. They are very easy to recognize, as they coat themselves in a cottony mass. When you notice them it is best to use a horticultural soap spray to eradicate. Most likely you will have to keep a vigilant look out for them and do repeat sprays every few days.