Restaurant News & Reviews

Get inside but out of the kitchen – Sacramento restaurants close down during record heat wave

Shanae LaSalle Munford, of Elk Grove, walks through an empty DoCo with water in record-breaking heat that forced many restaurants to close their doors. Sacramento reached 116 degrees Tuesday, Sept. 6, 2022, according to the National Weather Service. The previous record was set on July 17, 1925, when temperatures reached 114 degrees.
Shanae LaSalle Munford, of Elk Grove, walks through an empty DoCo with water in record-breaking heat that forced many restaurants to close their doors. Sacramento reached 116 degrees Tuesday, Sept. 6, 2022, according to the National Weather Service. The previous record was set on July 17, 1925, when temperatures reached 114 degrees. xmascarenas@sacbee.com

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Sacramento’s record heat wave emptied sidewalks and vexed its food world, from customer experiences to staffing and procurement concerns.

Few patrons want to boil on outdoor patios in 115-degree heat. While dining rooms might provide some relief, that air-conditioned oasis doesn’t always extend to those making the food. Commercial ovens, grills and stoves drive kitchen temperatures infamously hot, and many restaurants aren’t equipped with comprehensive air conditioning units.

Several local restaurateurs decided enough is enough. They’re closing down to give staff a break, and customers one less reason to venture outside.

Seeking relief in the form of a dairy-free gelato taco? You wouldn’t find it Tuesday through Thursday at Conscious Creamery, Oak Park’s vegan gelateria, which closed for the days for its employees’ and customers’ safety.

Conscious Creamery’s dairy-free gelato taco riffs on a Choco Taco.
Conscious Creamery’s dairy-free gelato taco riffs on a Choco Taco. Benjy Egel begel@sacbee.com

Scott’s Burger Shack in Sacramento’s North City Farms neighborhood went one step further, closing all week due to the high heat. Binchoyaki, Placerville Public House and Der Biergarten all took Tuesday off as well, while Taste of Tuscany in Antelope, Q1227 and Roundhouse Deli in Roseville, Rebel Hen Cafe in Lincoln and all Old Soul Co. locations shut down early. Premium Donuts in south Sacramento, too, will close by 11 a.m. Wednesday through Friday.

Others didn’t get the choice of whether to stay open. A power outage shut down Kuji Asian Grill in Woodland on Sunday and Monday, and Chando’s Tacos in West Sacramento on Tuesday.

Folsom’s Teriyaki Station ATBP closed Monday until further notice due to an “essential maintenance issue” brought on by the heat, according to an Instagram post, while Max’s Deli in Auburn closed after its A/C stopped working around 2 p.m. Tuesday.

With temperatures already nearing 100 degrees by 11 a.m Tuesday, the Placer Grown Farmers Market in Roseville shut down a couple of hours early.

The Davis Farmers Market announced it was “too hot to harvest and too hot to sell” in canceling Wednesday evening’s event, a nod to California farmworkers days after a bill to let them vote by mail in union elections headed to Gov. Gavin Newsom’s desk.

Cooler air is on the horizon, with the National Weather Service forecasting highs in the low 90s this coming Sunday. For now, though, skies are sizzling, even if skillets have gone quiet.

What I’m Eating

The Oktoberfest sampler ($40) lets customers taste some menu highlights at Kathrin’s Biergarten.
The Oktoberfest sampler ($40) lets customers taste some menu highlights at Kathrin’s Biergarten. Benjy Egel begel@sacbee.com

Kathrin Grosse might miss her native Germany sometimes. But as Kathrin’s Biergarten’s menu states, “durst ist schlimmer als Heimweh.”

Translation: “thirst is worse than homesickness.”

No drinker should walk away thirsty from 4810 Granite Drive, Suite A1 in Rocklin, home to the area’s most German restaurant and bar. Half-liter steins and tasting flights are easy to spot across Grosse’s concept in Sierra Meadows Plaza. It has a festively decorated indoor space to the dual patios with shade structures and misters.

Kathrin’s has more than 30 beers on tap, mostly imported but some brewed in-house, plus bottled beer, wine, radlers and ciders. There’s also a trio of nonalcoholic beers along with coffee, soda and a nice tea selection for sober folks.

Sauerkraut balls ($12 for six or $30 for 16), relatively common throughout Bavaria and the United States’ Midwest but scarcely seen in these parts, made for a fun appetizer. Ground bratwurst is the main ingredient, mixed with sauerkraut and cream cheese then rolled in breadcrumbs and fried to a create a sort of crispy handheld meatball.

Wiener schnitzel ($17), a Viennese cutlet not to be confused with the hot dog chain, came with the option of chicken or pork and fries or spätzle (small, savory dumplings). It was nicely done: lightly breaded, pounded flat and sprinkled with a herb mix that, along with a squeeze of lemon, kept the fried meat from tasting too heavy.

That schnitzel is included in Kathrin’s Oktoberfest sampler ($40), served over fries with braised red and cured green sauerkrauts and a choice of five flavorful sausages. A smoky-salty housemade brat known as “dirkat” is a must-try, and the Louisiana hot link lives up to the second word of its name.

Openings

  • After a banner month for Sacramento-area restaurant openings in August, Faria Bakery kept the party rolling by greeting first-time customers Saturday at their new Folsom Historic District cafe at 604 Sutter St. Owner/head baker Chris Beattie’s expansion from Faria’s North Oak Park base will introduce more savory lunch options and cakes in time.

  • Moksa Barrel House debuted Sept. 2 at 10007 Foothills Blvd., Suite 180 in Roseville, serving everything from coffee and breakfast sandwiches to craft hot dogs and soft-serve ice cream. It’s a joint venture between Rocklin-based Moksa Brewing and Hawks, Michael Fagnoni and Molly Hawks’ high-end restaurant in Granite Bay.
  • Seoul Street, a modern Korean restaurant with a full bar, replaced de Vere’s Irish Pub at 1521 L St. in downtown Sacramento. It’s just around the corner from one of Trinh Le and Minnie Nguyen’s other restaurants, Station 16. The husband-and-wife team also owns Station 38 Coffee House in East Sacramento, Daikon Korean BBQ in Natomas and Firehouse Crawfish in south Sacramento and Rancho Cordova.
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