Sacramento’s Localis earned Michelin marks for chef’s drink pairings, wine cellar
Despite acting as the backdrop for the 2025 Michelin Guide California reveal on Wednesday, the capital region’s fine restaurants did not receive any new stars. Still, chefs did not leave empty-handed.
Sacramento’s one-star restaurants, The Kitchen and Localis, maintained their prestigious status, while good-value eateries Canon and Nixtaco kept their Bib Gourmand designations. Pho Momma’s mouthwatering pho and spring rolls at an unbelievably low price helped the La Riviera haunt join the Bib Gourmand ranks just one month after being added to Michelin’s California guide.
Executive chef Chris Barnum-Dann of Localis was honored with a special Sommelier Award for his work in building an impressive wine and spirits list featuring selections that span the globe.
I recently visited Localis ahead of the ceremony to get a taste of star-quality gastronomy, and had the opportunity to try wine pairings developed by the state’s prime sommelier.
Localis’ wine experiences cater to every level of wine drinkers, from newbies dipping their toes into the wine world to seasoned aficionados who can rattle off varietals that most wine shops don’t carry.
For the most recent tasting menu, Barnum-Dann prepared three wine and spirit pairings at different price points based on rarity and quality.
The classic Beverage Pairing ($145 per person) pulls some familiar varietals from the restaurant’s cellar, including Austrian riesling and French chardonnay.
But don’t knock it as too basic — a ricotta-stuffed tempura squash blossom dish was masterfully paired with a Crozes-Hermitage blanc, which was described as having notes reminiscent of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Crisp fruit flavors elevated the floral centerpiece before settling into warmer, velvety butter notes.
The mid-range Time & Place beverage pairings ($330 per person) feature slightly elevated offerings with rarer aged wines at a higher cost. A 2019 French pinot noir served alongside a wagyu flatiron with mushroom puree and arugula-garlic-green peppercorn bucatini goes for upward of $300 a bottle at retail.
The elite Ex Cellario Pairing sets diners back an eye-watering $875 per person, more than four times the cost of the prix fixe menu. For this unique experience catering to the most acute wine connoisseurs, Barnum-Dann pulls bottles up to 60 years old, including a coveted vintage port and sweet Hungarian aszú wine.
What I’m Eating
I made it my mission to eat at a Sacramento Michelin-starred restaurant before Wednesday’s ceremonies. Dining at both eateries felt like overkill (particularly on the pocketbook), so I flipped a coin to choose a spot and made a reservation at Localis to try the “An Autobiography of the Localis Familia” 10-course tasting menu ($197 per person plus service charge).
Leading up to the restaurant’s 10th anniversary celebration in July, Barnum-Dann had each of his staff members — even a 16-year-old former intern — contribute a dish based on a food-related memory. The stories shared were sweet and moving, giving diners a peek into the lives of the folks who make Localis possible.
The dishes ranged from an upscale take on a mother’s classic beef stroganoff to a more experimental deconstructed blue corn-breaded pork milanese with strawberry Jarritos soda, which was the only course that had a decently spicy kick.
Recently hired chef Derek Sawyer, formerly of Allora and Hawks Public House, inspired a piccata-style version of the restaurant’s signature fire-roasted octopus, which is the only recipe the kitchen doesn’t share.
My favorite was a rockfish-scallop-crab ceviche with a punchy aguachile and a bright avocado-pea salsa, and I was practically lapping up the squash-za’atar soubise that surrounded the squash blossom dish.
Localis
Address: 2031 S St., Sacramento
Hours: Seatings from 5 p.m.-8:15 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday, by reservation only; closed Sunday-Tuesday.
Phone: 916-737-7699
Website: localissacramento.com
Vegetarian options: Vegetarian version of prix fixe menu offered, request in advance
Noise level: Loud
Outdoor seating: None
Openings & Closings
▪ Vallejo-based Suruki Sushi and Teriyaki Grill opened a West Sacramento location earlier this month, its first in the capital region. The new Japanese restaurant, at 767 IKEA Court, Suite 110, neighbors Batteries Plus and Manchurian Indian & Nepalese Cuisine in the Riverpoint Marketplace, anchored by the home furnishings giant.
▪ Seafood restaurant Station 16 permanently closed its 1116 16th St. location in midtown on Saturday. The restaurant’s chef, Minnie Nguyen, posted about the closure on the Station 16 social media Friday, The Bee reported. Station 16’s Elk Grove outpost, at 9625 E. Stockton Blvd., remains open.
▪ Le Macaron French Pastries, 1011 Seventh St., closed Tuesday just 15 months after opening its doors in downtown Sacramento. Owner Emily Gramse said low foot traffic and scarce parking intensified the financial struggle she and her husband faced when opening their franchised shop in March 2024.
