Bee Appetit: Camden Spit & Larder delivers English food through California lens
Let’s just say I had occasion to seek out some self care this week. I was at the end of my rope, utterly drained, and my husband suggested we go out for dinner.
My head was still in work mode, so I suggested a few lower-end local joints in unassuming strip malls I’ve been wanting to check out. He said, “I was thinking someplace nicer.”
It’s been years since we’ve been to Camden Spit & Larder for dinner. When we did, it was still very much during the awkward time emerging from the pandemic lockdown. It was also Pride weekend, so streets were blocked off.
We were nearly the only people in the restaurant. I don’t remember much about that night, only that the whole thing had a weird vibe. I knew it wasn’t the restaurant’s fault. It was the world’s.
For our return this week, I put on a nicer shirt, slapped on a favorite bracelet that makes me feel cute and powerful, and we headed downtown, with our close friend Russ in tow.
Despite being in a modern construction building, Camden goes to great lengths to give the space a warm, upscale pub feel. The drop ceiling is fashioned to look like vintage tin ceiling tiles. Large chandeliers with globe lights flood the room with a soft, consistent light. The chairs at the tables along the window transport you to an upscale gentleman’s lounge.
First order of business was a cocktail. I went in for their freezer martini ($22). Camden puts its own spin on a classic by adding a dash of chartreuse, giving it a yellow-green hue and a playful herbaceousness. It’s served bracingly cold, which is mandatory in my book. You can add an optional caviar bump for $15.
We shared the steak tartare ($24), tangy from the mustard caper dressing and dolloped with a curd-like sous vide egg yolk “jam,” and served with housemade chips that were both substantial and delicate.
The star attraction is the English meat pie ($39). Standing proud, a buttery pie crust, daintily crimped at the top, houses a filling of tender spring lamb and peas, served with creamy whipped potatoes and a rich jus.
The meat pie is a standard on the menu, but the fillings change periodically.
“We’ll talk about it like, what are we going to do next? Should we do a short rib pie? We’ve done curry lamb in the past. But yeah, there’s spring lamb, peas and lamb, you know, just kind of seemed appropriate,” chef-owner Oliver Ridgeway said, in his crisp British accent.
Ridgeway opened Camden in 2018. Being his first restaurant, he wanted to bring his philosophy of honoring the sense of place and celebration of California’s bounty to the cuisine of his homeland.
“English food gets a bad rap, and people often don’t quite understand it. So I wanted to introduce a few dishes just to kind of reflect some of my background,” he said.
Camden Spit & Larder
Address: 555 Capitol Mall #100, downtown
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday; 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays; closed Sundays
Phone: 916- 619-8897
Website: camdenspitandlarder.com
Vegetarian options: There are routinely vegetarian and vegan options on the dinner menu.
Noise level: It can get loud when busy, especially if the bar is hopping.
Openings & Closings
- Celebrating its 100th anniversary, Nugget Markets opened its 18th store in Rocklin Wednesday.
- University of Beer is closing its Folsom location. What will replace it?
- Despite rough seas, pirate-themed coffee roaster Black Sails Coffee launched in Oak Park last Saturday.
