Allen O. Pierleoni, beloved Bee food critic, columnist and bibliophile, dies at 75
Allen O. Pierleoni, a columnist, travel writer, food critic and bookworm whose enthralling features and reviews graced the pages of The Sacramento Bee for more than 30 years, has died. He was 75.
A Miami native and University of Florida graduate, Pierleoni ventured to the West Coast and joined The Bee as a writer in 1986.
He amassed nearly 3,000 published bylines over the next three decades, The Bee’s archives document, with works ranging from snack-sized restaurant reviews called “Grab a Bite” to longer tomes documenting travel adventures across California and overseas, with plenty more in between.
“He was quite a character, wasn’t he?” Pierleoni’s wife, Sally Rice, said in a phone interview Wednesday. “He was loving, gentle. Just can’t think of all the words I want to say. Very intelligent, extremely intelligent.”
Rice, a communications consultant, met Pierleoni at an event called “Dance in the Wild” at the Sacramento Zoo, co-hosted by the Sacramento Ballet. Pierleoni was The Bee’s assistant entertainment editor at the time.
“His eyes were kind and he made me laugh. When people talked, he was interested in what they had to say.”
A certified bibliophile, Pierleoni wrote weekly book columns and, for more than half his tenure at the newspaper, curated the Sacramento Bee Book Club. He also helped spearhead Capital Public Radio’s “Authors on Stage” program.
“He read righteously every single night,” Rice said.
After his departure in 2017, Pierleoni continued to write on a freelance basis for The Bee along with other local publications, producing a steady stream of author interviews, restaurant reviews and human interest pieces. In 2019, he chronicled the modern struggles and successes of the Sacramento Public Library system.
As for his work as a food critic, a glowing review from Pierleoni represented a high honor for a Northern California restaurant. In fact, it’s still a high honor: a 3-½ star review he awarded to Everett and Jones BBQ in 2004 remained laminated and framed on the wall of the Berkeley eatery as recently as 2018.
Pierleoni was diagnosed in early August with esophagus cancer, which Rice said spread rapidly. He died Monday.
Former colleagues who mourned Pierleoni called him caring and kind, with a great sense of humor and a memorable laugh.
Pierleoni is survived by Rice and by 11 grandchildren and step-grandchildren. Rice said they call him “Grandpa Owl.”
He was preceded in death by a daughter, Gina Pierleoni, who died at age 17 in a 2002 vehicle collision.
Rice said services for her late husband will be held in January, with details still pending.
“He was a very proud, loving husband, stepfather, and loved his grandkids immensely. And he loved to make me laugh,” Rice said.
“He was quite a man.”
This story was originally published December 22, 2021 at 12:40 PM.
