Take a look inside the Chicago Cafe, California’s oldest Chinese restaurant
By Paul Kitagaki Jr.
What’s the secret to the longevity of the Chicago Cafe, the Woodland landmark identified by a UC Davis research project as the oldest operating Chinese restaurant in California?
“Nothing fancy, but all good food,” said owner Paul Fong.
A recent visit demonstrated how time stands still at 411 Main St., a multigenerational spot for gatherings in the city. Whether it has been operating since 1903, as the family lore tells, or 1910, which the researchers were able to document, Fong hopes it continues past his time.
“If somebody took over, I can retire,” Fong said. “I’ll still run it until somebody takes over and I can play with the grandkids.”
Chicago Cafe owner Paul Fong thanks longtime customers Frances and Melton Losoya, who walk past the restaurant’s 100-year-old refrigerator as they leave through the kitchen after a meal last month. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Paul Fong prepares orders last month as his wife Nancy cooks at their family restaurant, the Chicago Cafe, the oldest Chinese restaurant in California. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Melton Losoya, 80, with his wife Frances, 78, sister-in-law Sara and his brother Jack Losoya, 88, wait to order their food last month in Woodland. They said they have been coming to the restaurant since they were children. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Chicago Cafe owners Paul and Nancy Fong, with sister-in-law Elisa Fong, right, stand in the kitchen in Woodland in February. The restaurant began serving customers in 1910, though its origins could stretch back to 1903, as printed on menus. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
First-time customer Dick Williams, left, sits at the counter with Felix Cano, who has been coming to the Chicago Cafe for 55 years, in Woodland on Feb. 23. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
First-time customer Dick Williams orders the combination plate with chow men, shrimp, fried rice and egg foo young with gravy at the Chicago Cafe in Woodland last month. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Customers eat in booths, decorated with gifts from customers, including a stuffed peacock, at the Chicago Cafe in Woodland last month. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Nancy Fong, left, and her husband Paul prepare orders with sister-in-law Elisa Fong, center, for their customers. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Melton Losoya, 80, who has been a Chicago Cafe customer since he was a small child, said that he usually orders the pork chow mein at the Woodland restaurant. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Paul Fong talks with customers Rick and Lynn Bunfill as they wait for their deluxe combo order and ginger beef. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Customers leave the Chicago Cafe at 411 Main St. in Woodland. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
Paul Fong stands in the kitchen of the Chicago Cafe in Woodland in February. Paul Kitagaki Jr. pkitagaki@sacbee.com
This story was originally published March 7, 2024 at 5:00 AM.
