Restaurant News & Reviews

Dine Downtown looks for clear skies for Sacramento restaurants to share dynamic dishes

The bar and main dining room at Beast & Bounty, which is participating in Dine Downtown this week.
The bar and main dining room at Beast & Bounty, which is participating in Dine Downtown this week. Sacramento Bee file

Dine Downtown, the Downtown Sacramento Partnership’s annual promotion to generate revenue for restaurants around the city core, began last week and will run through Sunday. Yet restaurateurs are hoping for further payoff down the road.

For the uninitiated, Dine Downtown encourages restaurants to offer three-course, prix-fixe meals at a uniform price ($45 this year). It started in 2005 as a way to boost downtown restaurants’ revenues in January, typically a down month between end-of-year celebrations and Valentine’s Day dinners.

Thirty-four downtown and midtown Sacramento restaurants signed up for Dine Downtown this year, including heavy hitters such as Hawks Public House, Brasserie du Monde and Camden Spit & Larder. All 34 and their menus can be seen at https://www.godowntownsac.com/.

Always a rough business month in the food and beverage industry, this January has been particularly dampened by torrential downpours and 65-70 mph winds that left city trees and power lines toppled. Restaurants such as Swiss Buda near Hollywood Park, Tony’s Place in Walnut Grove and Fluffy Donuts in Davis were forced to close for several days due to storm damage or extended power outages.

Midtown Sacramento hotspot Lowbrau’s outdoor setup was also deluged, and its revenue suffered as a result. But that’s not why sister restaurant Beast + Bounty is participating in Dine Downtown for the first time this year, said executive chef Brock Macdonald, who oversees both concepts.

Some people see Beast + Bounty’s gold silverware, soft pink benches and — let’s be honest — prices, and view the midtown restaurant as unapproachable, Macdonald said. Dine Downtown represents an opportunity to get those people in the door with a budget deal. Hopefully, some will stick around.

“I think the main reason we did it was to get people who have never been (to Beast + Bounty),” Macdonald said. “Maybe they come in and only spend money on the tasting menu that time, but they decide they really like it and come back and we get some regulars out of it.”

All three courses (persimmon salad, choice of pork belly ragu or pesto orecchiette, chocolate cake) are available on Beast + Bounty’s menu outside of Dine Downtown for a greater aggregate price than $45. If customers like those dishes, they can come back for them another time. They will just have to pay a little more to get them all together.

Dine Downtown isn’t really for Beast + Bounty or other high-end places to make up lost revenue in January, then. It’s a way to expose more customers to their ambiance and cooking, with hopes that some will order additional dishes that night or at a later date.

What I’m Eating

Boulevard Bistro’s salmon comes in a lovely lemon beurre blanc sauce.
Boulevard Bistro’s salmon comes in a lovely lemon beurre blanc sauce. BENJY EGEL Sacramento Bee

Elk Grove native Brett Bohlmann opened Boulevard Bistro on Valentine’s Day in 2006, transforming a 1908 home into a romantic destination. The city grew by about 50,000 residents over the next 15 years (a 39% increase), according to census data, but Bohlmann’s dimly lit restaurant at 8941 Elk Grove Blvd. remains arguably the top fine-dining place in town.

Boulevard Bistro’s menu rotates but remains relatively traditional, guided by the classic 1903 French tome “The Escoffier Cookbook and Guide to the Fine Art of Cookery.” Wine is a strong point, and ex-employee Chris Mora started the neighboring Christopher Cellars (and married Bohlmann’s daughter Candice, the restaurant’s former general manager).

Given all that, it’s little surprise that the rich coq au vin ($32) stood out. A fall-apart chicken thigh swam in thick red wine gravy with pork lardon cubes piled atop Gorgonzola mashed potatoes. Don’t be intimidated by the last detail, as the intense cheese’s pungent smell and flavor was mostly masked by the potatoes.

Pan-seared salmon ($32) was expertly cooked as well, served over pearl farro with baby carrots and broccolini in a lovely lemon beurre blanc sauce. On both mains, though, a slightly lighter hand would have been appreciated when salting.

The roasted cauliflower ($12) appetizer was a rare deviation from French American cooking with its pine nuts, five-spiced powder and cilantro yogurt calling something more Middle Eastern to mind. And the persimmon salad ($12) was full of nice contrasts, its sweet fruit offset by lolla rossa purple lettuce and bitter endives as well as tart pomegranate seeds and a maple-tarragon vinaigrette.

Address: 8941 Elk Grove Blvd., Elk Grove

Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday

Phone Number: (916) 685-2220

Website: http://blvdbistro.com

Drinks: Full bar, with an extensive beer and wine list

Animal-free options: No main dishes at present, but some salads and appetizers

Accessibility: Long ramp leading from ample rear parking lot to front door

Noise level: Medium to medium-loud

Openings & Closings

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This story was originally published January 20, 2023 at 5:00 AM.

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