From Esparto farms to Sacramento plates: Koginut squash takes center stage

A small squash grown in Yolo County had its moment in the spotlight this week.

Restaurants across the Sacramento area marked Koginut Week with special menus featuring the unique, pumpkin-like squash. Between Oct. 17 and Thursday, restaurants such as Canon, Magpie, Nixtaco and others served limited-time dishes, while the creators of the squash traveled from across the country to participate.

New York-based Row 7 Seed Co. developed the organic, cross-pollinated squash varietal. Chef Dan Barber and plant breeder Michael Mazourek, two of Row 7’s founders, wanted to develop a squash variety that was grown purely for enjoyment, rather than output, according to Charlotte Douglas, Row 7’s president.

“(Mazourek told Barber), ‘I’ve never bred a squash for flavor, because no one’s ever asked me to,’” Douglas said.

The philosophy of breeding vegetables for flavor is Row 7’s main mission. Since 2018, Barber, Mazourek and their team have worked to develop a range of unique seeds that bring something new to the table. Their other creations include the ultra-sweet Honeypatch squash, creamy Upstate Abundance potatoes, and a garlic-and-leek hybrid aptly named the Sweet Garleek, among others.

In the seven years since its founding, Row 7 has expanded from the cold northeastern U.S. to establish a presence in the West Coast’s growing regions, including in the fruitful Capay Valley. There, the team has laid down roots with farmers like Jim Durst, owner of Durst Organic Growers in Esparto and an early adopter of organic agriculture, to grow Koginut, Honeypatch and two tomato varieties.

On Oct. 17 some of the Row 7 team visited Durst’s Yolo County farm for Koginut week, and they were not alone. To celebrate a brand-new partnership that will see their squashes, potatoes and garleek launched in Sprouts stores around the country, Row 7 invited Sprouts corporate employees along for the ride.

Durst’s fully organic farm cultivates 30 acres of Row 7 squash, the result of a multi-year process that moved from trial planting to full harvest, according to Durst grower Maggie Mason.

In addition to a focus on organic crops, Durst also emphasizes worker treatment, offering benefits and pay that have encouraged seasonal employees to return year after year. Benefits include health, dental and vision coverage, along with a harvest incentive bonus. Durst said some field workers earn up to $40 an hour under this model.

“It’s not just growing seeds, it’s growing employees and growing a business and growing people,” Durst said.

Following the farm tour, guests gathered at East Sacramento’s Canon restaurant for a family-style dinner prepared by chef Brad Cecchi. The meal showcased Koginut squash and other Row 7 vegetables in upscale dishes.

In its simplest form, the Koginut was served roasted with a cider barbecue sauce and short rib marmalade, topped with fresh, mildly spicy garden chiles. More experimental offerings included pork terrine stuffed with Koginut and a blue cheese-garleek compote, served with a sippable glass of garleek consommé containing shreds of Honeypatch and Koginut squash.

The produce appeared seamlessly in every course, from light canapés to a decadent squash hand pie and gelato dessert.

“(The vegetables) are really delicious, and every chef loves to work with them,” Cecchi said to the dining room ahead of the dinner.

What I’m Eating

The masterminds behind the Urban Roots family of restaurants are back with a classic neighborhood eatery concept in the Ice Blocks.

Peter Hoey and Rob Archie opened Good Neighbor to the public this morning in the corner unit formerly housing Beast + Bounty, serving elevated Italian dishes and classy cocktails in a breezy, effortlessly cool environment. I previewed the restaurant over the weekend during its soft opening. Here’s what to expect.

With fewer than 15 entrees, Good Neighbor’s dinner menu is focused and unified, highlighting its executive chef’s Italian fine dining background. Its pasta bolognese ($21) is a delicate take on a normally rich, fatty Italian American dish. Its lean pork and beef ragu is fresh and light, accompanying the house-made pappardelle noodles and grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

The restaurant’s small plate selection is a particular triumph, offering items with and without meat. The fritto misto ($21) includes flavorful shrimp dusted with a lightly spiced seasoning and charred lemon wheels and leeks for texture. For a vegetarian option, the spinach artichoke dip ($15) is decadent and creamy, bolstered by the lightly browned cheese coating the dip’s surface.

Drawing from The Roost beverage director Justin Sheffey’s expertise, the cocktail menu offers modern interpretations of traditional drinks. The milk punch ($15) is a smooth, pomegranate-flavored take on the historic cocktail, using milk proteins to clarify fruit juices and create a crystal-clear liquid with a rich, milky finish.

In a small unit behind the main restaurant, Urban Roots’ executive pastry chef, Jamie Mack, set up Side Hustle, a quick service takeaway focusing on American comforts including hot dogs, Belgian waffles, smoothies and milkshakes. Alcohol can be added to any of the smoothies and milkshakes, and its off-sale liquor license allows customers to take boozy drinks home, according to Hoey. Side Hustle’s offerings are also available at Good Neighbor tables.

The restaurant and takeaway window will operate on limited hours during the winter, though Hoey said he hopes to extend hours into the night once the weather warms in spring.

Good Neighbor and Side Hustle

Address: 1701 R St., Sacramento

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

Phone: 916-758-6194

Website: goodneighbor916.com

Vegetarian options: Vegetarian small plates, pizza, salads, side dishes, desserts

Drinks: Cocktails, beer, wine, nonalcoholic juices, smoothies, soft drinks

Noise level: Loud

Outdoor seating: Patios on 17th and R streets

Openings & Closings

• Tapas chain restaurant Telefèric Barcelona opened its first capital region restaurant on Oct. 18. The new Spanish eatery, at 1190 Roseville Parkway in Roseville, serves traditional paellas and tapas alongside experimental bites, The Bee previously reported.

• Vechos Eatery, 1600 Fulton Ave. in Arden Arcade, closed its doors Oct. 17 after just over a year in business. Owner Kevin Ramos said he was planning to pursue a new business venture, but did not share further details.

Camila Pedrosa

The Sacramento Bee

Camila Pedrosa is a service journalism reporter at The Sacramento Bee. She previously worked as a summer reporting intern for The Bee and reported in Phoenix and Washington, D.C. She graduated from Arizona State University with a master’s degree in mass communication.